At what point do clarity and color not make a difference in appearance?

[peonygirl]

I''m looking to get a 1-1.5 carat solitare on a very thin platinum band, and I''m trying to figure out how to get a really sparkly diamond without paying for super high specifications that won''t change the appearance that much. For example, if you put a VVS2 and a VVS1 side by side, are they going to look any different? What are the minimum color and clarity grades that will translate into a super sparkly diamond? Obviously that question is somewhat subjective, but I''m totally clueless about this.

Also, is it true that there''s no ideal cut for radiants? I was told that the highest cut for that store in "very good." Thanks so much!

 

[Demelza]

You definitely will not notice the difference between a VVS1 and VVS2. You probably won't even notice the difference between an FL and an SI (assuming it's eye-clean). I prefer to stay in the VS range just for my own peace of mind, but there isn't any real reason as long as the inclusions are truly microscopic. If it will bother you a lot to see inclusions easily through a microscope or loupe, then you might want to stay in the higher clarity grades. But if all you are looking for is a diamond that looks totally clean to the naked eye, stay in the low VS - SI range and you should be fine.

I don't know much about radiant cut diamonds, but to the best of my knowledge, there aren't any ideal cut parameters for anything other than a round brilliant.

 

[strmrdr]

You will not see difference caused by clarity between a vvs1 and vvs2 or vs1 or most vs2 or some si1''s even in a radiant.

The key is to have a good and trust worthy vendor go over it before considering it.

As far as color goes it depends on your eyes and the lighting and what one likes.
Some like the warmer colors some like the icyness of a D.
G/H is generaly a sweet spot where very few people have a problem with the color.

 

[Regular Guy]

Peonygirl,

There will be a range of sentiment on all three Cs.

Regarding cut, although Dave Atlas'' charts do provide an initial perspective on evaluating cut, it''s frequently understood that, especially with non-rounds, these charts aren''t as helpful as you would like to judge performance, and so other tools are helpful, including idealscopes, and such.

On clarity, I think the pros here review that the visible advantages of VVS or better are not apparent. Likewise, SI1s and even 2s can be eye clean, and so if that is your reasonable criteria, they can be included, based on examination, in a search. (I think VS2 and 1 are thought to be more conservative and very conservative options).

Color, opinion varies pretty widely. Perhaps best to see for yourself at a reputable jeweler. D is not crazy, frequently F is where it''s thought you can notice any difference, and some here will tell you hardly need to spend for an I if it''s well cut.

Hope this helps a bit.

Regards,

 

[sjz]

You probably won't see a visible difference between VVS1 and VVS2. Both of those clarity grades are pretty much guaranteed to be eye clean. When you start to go lower in clarity is when you have to pretty much compare stone by stone. Most VS1 and VS2 stones will be eye clean, but if the inclusions are dark, and near the surface, especially when looking at the stone from top town in the table facet, eagle eyed people can sometimes see them. Colorless inclusions, or small ones deeper in the stone will often not be visible to the naked eye. SI stones can even be eye clean, if the inclusions are white ones, or smaller and more diffuse. It just depends on the stone. But to get a stone that you are guaranteed never to see inclusions with your naked eye, you will probably need to go with a minimum of VVS2 I think.

ETA: Oops, forgot to address you question about color. I think that one is going to be totally up to your eyes only. To me, color is the most subjective one of the 4 C's to really measure. Mainly because you can ONLY measure it with your naked eyes. Cut, clarity, and carat weight can all be measured scientifically or by counting. Color is going to look different to individuals. Some people are more color sensitive than others. Some people will only settle for a complete absence of color. I think a majority of people will agree, though that anything in the colorless or near colorless range, that is from D to J, has the POTENTIAL for looking very white and very sparkly if the cut is good and the clarity is eye clean.

 

[Regular Guy]

Another minor vote to exclude VVS options or better...if the inclusions can''t be seen with a 10X loupe, one somewhat readily available method for re-identifying your diamond, after it''s handed over to a jeweler for cleaning and such, may not be so available to you.

Frankly, though this is usually seen as a lemonade/lemons sort of bonus...it is one which makes sense to me.

Regards,

 

[sjz]

Personally, I wouldn''t let my jeweler clean and inspect my jewelery if I didn''t trust them not to swap it out for another one. Another important reason for having a good personal relationship with a local jeweler you can trust, even if you do buy your stone from an online vendor. I would send my ring back to the online vendor if it needed adjusting or repaired, just because they set the stone and the setting is warranted by them. But for cleaning and regular inpsections, I take it to my local person. She has a private shop, and deals more in colored stones than diamonds and has a really good stone setter. She has done some awesome work for me in the past, and I''ve known her for years and know that she is honest and trustworthy. You can also have your stone laser inscribed if you are that worried about it.

 

[ame]

The place that we got my e-ring at has their entire "shop" in case walls. You can see EVERYTHING going on. It''s fun to watch them polish my ring. I love that and i know part of why they did it was to ease minds.

As far as sweet spots go...I have an SI2 for my solitaire. It''s pretty dang eyeclean. I can see everything under a loupe if the light hits it right, but without a loupe, Id never spot anything other than one little thing next to a prong. Its deliberately set next to a prong.

The only way I can see things in my wedding band stones is with a 30x. I have spotted little dark crystals, maybe a cloud, it''s kind of cool actually. I think those are VS2s but I can see nothing in them at 10x.

I think my preference would be VS1-SI1. I think the VS gives value and piece of mind.

As far as color...I would probably never go below an H. Mine is an H and the cut actually makes it really white. I don''t know that Id go lower. H is white but it''s my mental block that ruins it for me.

So I guess don''t go below a VS2 and H is my thought for keeping it white and clear without overpaying.

 

[laney]

For an ideally cut round brillant stone (ags 000 H&A... etc)

The lowest I''d go - (which I have now) is H SI2.

I recenly changed from an F - and had all my friends and family inspect the new stone up close. No one - except for me has ever pointed out my inclusions (and that is SI2) even when I challenge them to find them. The brillance of the stone and the light that it gives off hides anything that anyone could find.

If you are trying to go down in an area - I think eye clean SI 1 and SI2 are the way to go. I only have feather inclusions..

And color - that''s up to you..

 

[carrot]

The sparkle (light return) of a diamond is determined almost entirely by the quality of the cut (the right combination of angles and proportions), and very little by the clarity or color. However, as the color grade decreases, the transparency of the diamond also decreases and can affect what you call sparkle.

The short answer to your question is that if you can''t see it, it doesn''t matter.

Clarity grades if VS2 (and better) are almost always eye clean. If a stone were an SI1, I would be sure to look at it to verify that it is eye clean. A diamond is eye clean if no inclusions can be seen with the naked eye when examined closely by a person with good vision. So once you get to the eye clean "level", stones with increasing clarity will not look any different whatsoever, but they will be more expensive.

Color is very important to me because I can see the difference between color grades and I find the beauty of colorless stones unmatched. I would strongly encourage you not to buy a diamond until you can determine how important it is to you. Go to a jeweler large enough to inventory loose diamonds (even if it means a trip to Chicago) and look at diamonds of various color grades, being sure to include a D stone. The YOU will know what color grade you will be happy with. If you can''t see the difference between a D and an H, you will be able to buy a less expensive stone.

Also, before you buy, it is VERY important to learn about Idealscope images and how to interpret them. There are enough vendors who supply these images of their stones that you do not need to buy from someone who does not.