Asscher getting new David Klass shoes

[caolsen]

I’m having David reset my slightly over 1 carat Asscher. I bought the stone from Ivy and Rose and they put it into one of their settings. It s a lovely look but the setting isn’t as substantial as I like as I really wear my rings and use my hands. David has rehomed and repurposed several rings for me in the last 18 months, with great results.

Here is the ring as she stands now:


I am adding two .20 carat side stone but recreating the top view, with the sapphires. It will be in platinum with a tri wire. Here’s the first CAD. The tweaks I asked for are to bezel the sides and remove the fleur detail on the gallery and go with angular lines there, no flowers on this one. No miligrain, looking for a very sleek look on this one.


I will share more details as the next CAD comes through.

 

[FL_runner]

Looks great, please update us throughout the process! I think the sapphires will be gorgeous!

 

[molecule]

Just a thought: How would you feel about removing the end prongs on the traps and letting the vertical pre-triwire transition hold up the end? It may require sloping the traps a bit more than they are now.

 

[caolsen]

Just a thought: How would you feel about removing the end prongs on the traps and letting the vertical pre-triwire transition hold up the end? It may require sloping the traps a bit more than they are now.

I opted for bezel set traps, versus the prongs. I wanted something that is very low patience, with little prong catching. But having thee bezel morphing out of the tri-wire is an interesting idea. Thanks.

 

[Sprinkles&Stones]

Woohoo can’t wait to see! This is going to look amazing

 

[Alybetter]

Can’t wait to see it!

 

[blingmeupscotty]

^^^^^^ ditto!

 

[molecule]

Are you sold on the widths around the diamonds being different than that of the sapphires?

 

[caolsen]

Are you sold on the widths around the diamonds being different than that of the sapphires?

I am sold on that. The baguettes can be reused from the current setting, so I don’t have to have knew ones cut. I like the slightly graduated look of the side stones being bigger than the sapphires but smaller than the central stone. .

 

[caolsen]

Here is an updated CAD

 

[Catmom]

Looks fabulous! Will you put anything in your old setting?

 

[caolsen]

Looks fabulous! Will you put anything in your old setting?

Nope - the old setting is donating the sapphire so it will be pretty chopped up. Melt the gold and keep the small melee for repairs is my plan.

 

[caolsen]

David finalized the side stones, so we are off to the races! Pair of G VS .29 traps

 

[caolsen]

It’s been a wee bit of time, but she’s done. Here are photos of the remade ring with side traps and a tri-wire, in platinum

 

[mustangchi]

That's really pretty!!

 

[MissGotRocks]

Very nice!!

 

[ZestfullyBling]

So pretty!!!!

 

[mrs-b]

Hi @caolsen -

Did you use the same corner diamonds that you had in your original ring? I'm wondering why they protrude so much more in the new iteration than in the original. In the original, the 4 corner rounds follow the outer-perimeter line created by the sapphires; the sapphires transition seamlessly into the 4 diamond melee corners. In the new ring, those corners seem more bulky and raised, and their profile, when viewed face on, protrudes. While I love your Asscher, and I think the addition of the bezeled traps was both inspired and classic, those corners are striking me as not in line with your brief of "a very sleek look". You have a few options to make it more geometrical and sleek; 1) have sapphires cut for the corners so the line of sapphires is unbroken, 2) have tapered corner trap diamonds cut so, again, the outer perimeter is unbroken, 3) use smaller diamond melee and ask for the 4 corner settings to - again - provide an unbroken perimeter outline, 4) ask for them to be dropped down a little so they don't protrude upwards as much, or, if you want a much bigger looking ring, 5) ask for a halo of baguette shaped diamonds to be cut to pump up your look exponentially and by-pass the sapphires altogether. If it were me, and sleek and geometrical is what I wanted, I'd ask for the sapphire option and do away with the corner diamonds altogether. That would really emphasize the angles and cut the visual detail, giving an over-all bolder line to the ring. It would also make more of your center stone, which is truly lovely.

On the other hand - taste is individual, and if you like the corner diamonds as-is - don't change a thing! I'm only adding this comment here because I feel as tho DKJ could have done a little better on this one and because I see where you were heading with your brief; it's a look I love.

All comments made in good faith, with good intentions, and wanting you to get EXACTLY what you love!

 

[caolsen]

@mrs-b Your eye for detail is amazing. Few things happened. New sapphires had to cut, still waiting on the back story on that. But the sapphires from the original setting were not high end sapphires (that entire setting was $400 - no slam on that, just new it wasn’t a forever setting). So, it’s possible they fractured or chipped in the unmounting process or had flaws the original setting obscured. with that, slightly larger rounds were used in this version which created a slight 4 tab outline to this version, versus the original which was square - no bits of the corners with the rounds stood out.

That wasn’t a purposeful design but as I saw the outline, my thought was as I almost alway wear stacks, the tabs in the corner will create some space between this ring and the various eternity and halfs I would will wear with this.

And I don’t know how to describe it well, but I think DK’s miligain is more pronounced, more defined, with higher peaks and valleys than that on the original stock setting. Which I think is also exaggerated in macro photos.

All that said, you’re spot on - the brief did change. I went back and forth on even having the milgain done. At one point I was thinking all smooth, high polished tops to the bezels.

 

[caolsen]

This is a still from the video @mrs-b You can see the height on the corner tabs that the original ring did not have. Again, this was an artifact of the new sapphire cutting meaning new corners stones. I hadn’t thought to ask for this in my brief but I think I like how it ended up. Of course still need to see the ring in person. The 4 corner towers will be the same height as the diamond’s table. Should have the ring Monday for hand shots and a in-person assessment of the modified design.

I am pretty active and while I know I should not wear rings on my bike and horse rides, I do. I do avoid rings with lots of prongs when active. This new setting was made to be beefy, hence the bezels versus prongs. I think the corner towers will mean riding gloves won’t snag much.

 

[caolsen]

Oh, and the reason I didn’t go for a full sapphire halo is I have a OEC original Art Deco with a full sapphire halo. Wanted something a bit different on this one.

 

[wildcat03]

I love the new setting! I also love your OEC with sapphire halo!

 

[mrs-b]

Ahhhh - when I first looked at it, I thought to myself "Those sapphires are different."

I agree with the bezel setting- it's certainly what I would have done. I love an asscher with traps, baguettes, bezels - anything that emphasizes the geometry of the piece.

Anyhoo, I hope you love it and that it does all you want it to do.

Just btw, since they had to recut the sapphires, did you think about the option of...framing it in emeralds instead, for instance? Or are you a sapphire girl all the way? I've been trying to get emerald into my life for I don't know how long - unsuccessfully, sadly - so perhaps I'm seeing emerald options everywhere! That would have allowed you to do an unbroken, super-sleek frame, no corner tabs, but also something different to what you already have. Alternately, hot pink sapphires would be killer on this as well. I love hot pink with asscher - it's got that 'power babe' vibe. Strong, masculine, sexy lines and angles....then super girly hot pink. Love it.

Anyway, either way, I'm sure you'll love it and I hope it brings you much enjoyment.

 

[caolsen]

Ahhhh - when I first looked at it, I thought to myself "Those sapphires are different."

I agree with the bezel setting- it's certainly what I would have done. I love an asscher with traps, baguettes, bezels - anything that emphasizes the geometry of the piece.

Anyhoo, I hope you love it and that it does all you want it to do.

Just btw, since they had to recut the sapphires, did you think about the option of...framing it in emeralds instead, for instance? Or are you a sapphire girl all the way? I've been trying to get emerald into my life for I don't know how long - unsuccessfully, sadly - so perhaps I'm seeing emerald options everywhere! That would have allowed you to do an unbroken, super-sleek frame, no corner tabs, but also something different to what you already have. Alternately, hot pink sapphires would be killer on this as well. I love hot pink with asscher - it's got that 'power babe' vibe. Strong, masculine, sexy lines and angles....then super girly hot pink. Love it.

Anyway, either way, I'm sure you'll love it and I hope it brings you much enjoyment.

I am not a pink girl, women, person, human - at all - nor am I a ‘hot‘ color person, classic blue, red and daisy yellow where corundum is concerned for me.

Emeralds, oh how I love the green of an African emerald but the softness scares me. I am active, and I talk with my hands which means I whack my hands - I chipped an oval sapphire years ago when my hand hit something. The relative softness of those green beauties scares the heck out of me. That said, god - an emerald can be stunning, glowing from within like nothing else.

 

[mrs-b]

I am not a pink girl, women, person, human - at all - nor am I a ‘hot‘ color person, classic blue, red and daisy yellow where corundum is concerned for me.

Emeralds, oh how I love the green of an African emerald but the softness scares me. I am active, and I talk with my hands which means I whack my hands - I chipped an oval sapphire years ago when my hand hit something. The relative softness of those green beauties scares the heck out of me. That said, god - an emerald can be stunning, glowing from within like nothing else.

I'm a BIG pink fan. Don't actually own any pink jewelry - except for one, fairly muted, pendant. But I'd go full tilt for a hot pink and diamond anything!

I hear you on the emerald thing. Always a bit of a risk.

Will look forward to hand shots when your new ring arrives!

 

[JulieN]

So pretty, waiting for hand pics! The new trap sides are an improvement.

@caolsen I apologize for the threadjack. I recently moved and was hoping to get your recommendations on jewelers for both new and estate in the IN, KY, OH area. I am tentatively planning on a Victorian style halo with OMC melee in YG and am torn between DK or someone local.

 

[caolsen]

David knocked it outside of the park, again. Here are photos. I’ll get some sunlight photos later this week when I make it outside in the sunlight - work this week

And with all the awfulness in the world, jewelry is so trivial, but I hope new photos brighten someone’s day.

 

[caolsen]

So pretty, waiting for hand pics! The new trap sides are an improvement.

@caolsen I apologize for the threadjack. I recently moved and was hoping to get your recommendations on jewelers for both new and estate in the IN, KY, OH area. I am tentatively planning on a Victorian style halo with OMC melee in YG and am torn between DK or someone local.

For a piece with a lot of detail or engraving/milgrain, I would use David Klass. But for simpler setting or repairs, I used Ft Thomas Jewelers when I lived in NKY. Great folks, no pressure and they have a great loose stone inventory - diamonds and other stones. Great people, repairs and builds are done on site.

Jewelry Store in in Highland Heights, KY - Fort Thomas Jewelers

Welcome to Fort Thomas Jewelers - your destination for exquisite jewelry. Start shopping now!

ftthomasjewelers.com

 

[caolsen]

Few more

 

[oliverave]

I will admit I was hesitant about the raised diamond tabs on the corners, but I love them! I love how they break up the outline of the sapphires and act as a neon sign pointing out your beautiful diamond. Makes it look almost like a present or like furoshiki.