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Asscher Experts and lovers opinions needed

JmeeMrie

Shiny_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 12, 2016
Messages
294
Hi Everyone,
I have been lurking around Pricescope for awhile and it is here that I learned that I have a deep love for Asschers. So when my boyfriend said that we could go look I knew what I was on the hunt for. :D
We were in the diamond district in San Diego and I found a jeweler I really liked and felt comfortable with. Everything just kind of lined up. He had some asschers to look at in stock which was awesome because I had never seen one in person. I liked a really nice 1.26ct (that was actually a really short emerald, but decided I needed the windmills to meet in the middle and have that asscher personality.)
Then they brought out a beautiful 2.01 ct he had in stock, but it was a little out of our price range.:eek-2:
So I asked them to look around for something similar in the 1.5 ct range

He found a 1.5ct asscher for me that I am pretty exited about. It definitely has personality and I was very impressed with it, but I want to make sure I am not missing anything glaring with my "oooh shiny" goggles on.

here are the stats:
GIA:
1.5ct
I color VS2
6.30 X 6.26 X 4.21 mm
67.2% depth
64% table
thick girdle
no culet
EX EX polish and symmetry
no flour.
The pictures I took myself, so hopefully you can get an idea. Also the videos and pictures are the diamond placed in one of the stock settings (I have larger fingers than the sample size) that is the same mm as what I am thinking of getting for reference it is 2mm. Also click the link for the videos I took in store because They show a heck of a lot more than the photos do.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ck1xyg9boVLlIoff1 <---this link is for the videos since I cannot embed them. and you can turn off the sound...for the videos it's just us chatting...

Thanks for looking

20170902_130933[1].jpg
20170902_130935[1].jpg
 
Did she say you won't be able to drive when you are wearing it? Lol I can't with mine!! It is so distracting,

I've only seen the first two and I'm still having a hard time seeing what I want to see, though it looks maybe promising so far. (More about the video than the stone). My concerns are windows and if it is alive. It seems half dead to me but maybe that is the video?

Did you take any videos of rocking it back and forth in natural light? Outside or by a window?
 
Yes she did!! I know it is going to be a problem with me too. I saw your avatar photo and it looks gorgeous!

One of the videos is not in spotlighting and is like simulated natural lighting.. ( it's the ones where you can see the counter)
I tried to get some decent photos and videos but it was kinda difficult to focus. I am sure once it's done I will be obsessing and upload lots of pictures of the finished product.

I kept staring and didn't want to leave her there.. guess that's a good sign on my part :dance:
 
Deleted so it won't be in the archives...
 
Last edited:
Congratulations from another stepcut fan! :clap: They sure can be mesmerizing, can't they?!

From your videos my first concern is that, even though the diamond looks bright, I'm not seeing much "fire"... the long, broad pastels flashes that stepcuts are known for. I see little hints here and there around the corners, but not like I'd expect to see closer to the middle. Do you recall if it had that in person, and perhaps the video isn't showing it?

Next is that I'd definitely want an ASET image; that will show you without question what your untrained eyes may not (yet) pick up. It's sometimes easy to think a diamond looks great, if you haven't really been shown a GREAT diamond before (I hope that made sense - lol).

Lastly, how important is it for you to work with a local jeweler? There are vendors we can recommend that might make the search process easier for you.

ETA: Probably my all-time favorite asscher ever. This is the BOMB! Of course, I think it was also over 100K so... :lol: But, you'll see what I mean by broad pastel flashes. -
 
Just to check, have you bought the stone already?

I would echo the comments above - it looks like it might be a bit leaky (I think I can see your skin through some of the facets in the first video?) and in the last video, it is very 'dark' head-on - all of the facets seem to be 'off' at the same time.

It does have some personality, I will give you that :) but you need to get it outside and under natural light rather than any artificial lighting, as that will give you a better idea of performance 'in real life' and away from the lights in the showroom that are designed to make diamonds look great!

If you are willing, can you post your budget and desired specs? (size in mm, carats, colour, clarity)

Good Old Gold (who made the video above) has several videos on their YouTube channel showing what good asschers should perform like. I highly recommend you watch them so you can compare them to the stone you have seen :)

FWIW, well-cut asschers are extremely rare - @Wink has said previously that he's only seen perhaps 2 or 3 that he would buy himself in his 40+ year career, and @Karl_K designed the Octavia Asscher - presumably partly because of the fact they are so difficult to get hold of!
 
Congratulations from another stepcut fan! :clap: They sure can be mesmerizing, can't they?!

ETA: Probably my all-time favorite asscher ever. This is the BOMB! Of course, I think it was also over 100K so... :lol: But, you'll see what I mean by broad pastel flashes. -

That is a gorgeous asscher and perhaps a unicorn. This is what you are aiming for... lively, clear, white, flashy but taking turns...
 
Hi ]JmeeMrie
In my opinion, the photos/video are not conclusive- in other words, I would not be able to say the stone looks good, or bad based on the pictures.
I agree well cut stones are rare. But thankfully they are out there- and you certainly could be looking at one based on the evidence we've seen.
Thankfully, you are in the position to determine if the one you're looking at is well cut.
I sense thqat you've looked at quite a few already.
How does this one compare?
The things I love to see:
1) Shape and corners
2) the way the steps react and flash. I don't like static dark facets that don't flash bright
3) spread - but I do accept that some of the stones that have the corners and "stepiness" I love may be average in terms of looking large or small for the carat weight.

What do you love about it?
 
Hi ]JmeeMrie
In my opinion, the photos/video are not conclusive- in other words, I would not be able to say the stone looks good, or bad based on the pictures.
I agree well cut stones are rare. But thankfully they are out there- and you certainly could be looking at one based on the evidence we've seen.
Thankfully, you are in the position to determine if the one you're looking at is well cut.
I sense thqat you've looked at quite a few already.
How does this one compare?
The things I love to see:
1) Shape and corners
2) the way the steps react and flash. I don't like static dark facets that don't flash bright
3) spread - but I do accept that some of the stones that have the corners and "stepiness" I love may be average in terms of looking large or small for the carat weight.

What do you love about it?

Yes, mine I believe is small for weight but I was willing to take that for the hall of mirrors and liveliness. It depends on what you want... the unicorn will take a while to find or it will be more than you want to spend, but you could luck out and it becomes yours.

You have to decide what you want and what doesn't bother you, and then try to find that stone.
 
Hi ]JmeeMrie
In my opinion, the photos/video are not conclusive- in other words, I would not be able to say the stone looks good, or bad based on the pictures.
I agree well cut stones are rare. But thankfully they are out there- and you certainly could be looking at one based on the evidence we've seen.
Thankfully, you are in the position to determine if the one you're looking at is well cut.
I sense thqat you've looked at quite a few already.
How does this one compare?
The things I love to see:
1) Shape and corners
2) the way the steps react and flash. I don't like static dark facets that don't flash bright
3) spread - but I do accept that some of the stones that have the corners and "stepiness" I love may be average in terms of looking large or small for the carat weight.

What do you love about it?
I love how the stone draws me in. The windmills are well defined (I don't like thin windmills) and the clipped corners. I think it has personality which I love. I agree that I should have taken it outside but I do remember showing my FI the broad flashes. I think I need to go see it again to confirm or not.. We have put a deposit down, and I do feel great about the jewelers customer service so far so I hope that I am just a bad photographer/ videographer.

Do you suggest just going back to see it and asking to see it in daylight to allay those concerns? anything else you would suggest? They mentioned an ASET.. does every jeweler have this ability?
 
I would definitely go back and look at it by a window and ideal would be to take it outside.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, BUT...there is clear leakage in this video.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=QVpFekJZa0ZLbzNCU0xwNWZuWjNwLUZTYjMxYVVR

You can see straight through to the white counter, without any flash in the center...even while being tilted! There is definitely a dead spot in the center, and it affects the performance of the stone...even in the store lighting. It's gorgeously clear...and so pretty...but I fear you will find it to be more dark than flashy.
I'm so heartbroken... :(2
 
I love how the stone draws me in. The windmills are well defined (I don't like thin windmills) and the clipped corners. I think it has personality which I love. I agree that I should have taken it outside but I do remember showing my FI the broad flashes. I think I need to go see it again to confirm or not.. We have put a deposit down, and I do feel great about the jewelers customer service so far so I hope that I am just a bad photographer/ videographer.

Do you suggest just going back to see it and asking to see it in daylight to allay those concerns? anything else you would suggest? They mentioned an ASET.. does every jeweler have this ability?

No...but if you have the opportunity, get the ASET!!! PLEASE PROVE ME WRONG!! She's so pretty...and perfectly proportioned: 1.00:1 l x w ratio!!! *DROOL*!!!
 
I love how the stone draws me in. The windmills are well defined (I don't like thin windmills) and the clipped corners. I think it has personality which I love. I agree that I should have taken it outside but I do remember showing my FI the broad flashes. I think I need to go see it again to confirm or not.. We have put a deposit down, and I do feel great about the jewelers customer service so far so I hope that I am just a bad photographer/ videographer.

Do you suggest just going back to see it and asking to see it in daylight to allay those concerns? anything else you would suggest? They mentioned an ASET.. does every jeweler have this ability?
Yes, absolutely.
Above all, please keep in mind that this is an internet discussion- so people may be very willing to trash the stone, when there's simply no reason to.
Let's just take leakage as an example.
The whole concept is easy to misunderstand.
There are cases where "leakage" is part of the charm of a well cut asscher.
Remember, light is not like water- you don't want all it coming back to your eye- that would be a mirror.
The video shows a white area that seems persistent- an observation was made that it's a leaky area.
However looking at the video, it seems that there's also a light reflecting off the table.
This could easily be mistaken for a transparency.
If there was such a problem, you would have noticed it already.

The ASET is not something I would use to assess the cut of an Asscher when it's in front of me.
For sure, there are sellers that might. And a lot of online sales hinge on it.
However, some of the very best B/M sellers will not use it, because they may agree with my take on it. When you are holding the stone, you need to judge the stone in real life, as opposed to a reflector.
Just to say- if a seller does not use ASET, that does not necessarily mean they do not sell well cut diamonds.

Writing as an online seller- I am very familiar with the advantages a B/M can offer. That's another aspect of the online world- it's sometimes necessary to remind people of the value of human interaction.
I strongly believe that the best advice we can give people when selecting a seller is to research the seller- then interact to see if you can feel comfortable working with them.
 
For the record, @JmeeMrie,
I'm not bashing your stone. I only pointed out what my eyes captured by looking at videos. I'm not privy to seeing it in person, so my eyes may have played tricks on me: step cuts have a knack for that. I have a beautifully cut EC that mesmerizes me, every day. I understand the allure, and I do hope this is the diamond of your dreams!!!
Please share more photos & videos of the diamond, if you choose to keep it...esp hand shots!!! She has personality, and she is very beautiful! :mrgreen2:
 
There is certainly some leakage visible in the video that looks like it is rather slow flashing.
That is not the best sign.
Overall I agree with David not good enough to make a clear call one way or the other.
 
Matthews1127
I apologize - my characterization of your post was too harsh in it's wording.
I'm sure you're trying to be helpful.

I don't know any of the parties involved. I am assuming that JmeeMrie has checked out the seller- and feels comfortable with the reputation of the seller.
I'm not suggesting the OP buy it.
Rather that in this case we just don't know enough to say there's a real problem based on the info.
And it sounds like the stone has a lot of positives in person.
I'm sure all of us want the OP to enjoy the purchase- no matter where she makes it.
Peace from a fellow ec lover:)
 
Matthews1127
I apologize - my characterization of your post was too harsh in it's wording.
I'm sure you're trying to be helpful.

I don't know any of the parties involved. I am assuming that JmeeMrie has checked out the seller- and feels comfortable with the reputation of the seller.
I'm not suggesting the OP buy it.
Rather that in this case we just don't know enough to say there's a real problem based on the info.
And it sounds like the stone has a lot of positives in person.
I'm sure all of us want the OP to enjoy the purchase- no matter where she makes it.
Peace from a fellow ec lover:)

I believe we agree on all counts. I do hope the OP is truly satisfied with her selection, and she very well may have a rare stone, indeed. Everything about the diamond is gorgeous, including the perfect dimensions. The only issue that my eyes caught (and I very well may be incorrect without seeing it in person) is that one angle in the video I attached for debate. For any of us to truly weigh in, and present an informed opinion on the diamond, an ASET would be more helpful...and I believe I should have made that more clear, as well. I appreciate your efforts to clear up a misunderstanding, and I hope you will accept my attempt to make myself more clear, as well.
Peace from this step-cut lover! :mrgreen2:
 
Yes, absolutely.
Above all, please keep in mind that this is an internet discussion- so people may be very willing to trash the stone, when there's simply no reason to.
Let's just take leakage as an example.
The whole concept is easy to misunderstand.
There are cases where "leakage" is part of the charm of a well cut asscher.
Remember, light is not like water- you don't want all it coming back to your eye- that would be a mirror.
The video shows a white area that seems persistent- an observation was made that it's a leaky area.
However looking at the video, it seems that there's also a light reflecting off the table.
This could easily be mistaken for a transparency.
If there was such a problem, you would have noticed it already.

The ASET is not something I would use to assess the cut of an Asscher when it's in front of me.
For sure, there are sellers that might. And a lot of online sales hinge on it.
However, some of the very best B/M sellers will not use it, because they may agree with my take on it. When you are holding the stone, you need to judge the stone in real life, as opposed to a reflector.
Just to say- if a seller does not use ASET, that does not necessarily mean they do not sell well cut diamonds.

Writing as an online seller- I am very familiar with the advantages a B/M can offer. That's another aspect of the online world- it's sometimes necessary to remind people of the value of human interaction.
I strongly believe that the best advice we can give people when selecting a seller is to research the seller- then interact to see if you can feel comfortable working with them.

I do have faith in the jeweler. He has been great to work with. I think I am going to go back and look in the day light and express my concerns or rather all of yours and see what he says and see if I am still in love...
Can you guys tell me what to look for more specifically to the problem you see.. or what will show me that there is less leakage? Do all asscher have some? I did think the optics we're great when I looked..
 
Hold it over a red or blue surface, preferably reflective. Mylar from a balloon glued to a business card is perfect. Hold the diamond a couple inches from the card.
The table of the diamond needs to be parallel with the card for best results.
Look at it from directly above the table of the diamond.
Don't wear clothing the same color.
Where you see that color in the stone is leakage, now tilt the stone slowly side to side.
Do the leaky areas quickly flash? If so good.
Now tilt the diamond the other way and check that also.
Move the diamond closer to the card, the perfect distance will vary by stone size the larger the diamond the closer it has to be to the Mylar. Repeat.

Now put the stone on your finger in a stone holder and look at the areas where you saw the leakage, does the diamond look overly dark in those areas?
Some leakage is normal, I don't worry about it much if it flashes quickly doesn't make the stone overly dark and helps form patterns and is relatively small.
Start at the outside and look towards the center of stone, does it have pleasing patterns.
Does light play across the stone as you move it?
View it under multiple lighting conditions and different viewing distances.

Have fun with it!
 
Hold it over a red or blue surface, preferably reflective. Mylar from a balloon glued to a business card is perfect. Hold the diamond a couple inches from the card.
The table of the diamond needs to be parallel with the card for best results.
Look at it from directly above the table of the diamond.
Don't wear clothing the same color.
Where you see that color in the stone is leakage, now tilt the stone slowly side to side.
Do the leaky areas quickly flash? If so good.
Now tilt the diamond the other way and check that also.
Move the diamond closer to the card, the perfect distance will vary by stone size the larger the diamond the closer it has to be to the Mylar. Repeat.

Now put the stone on your finger in a stone holder and look at the areas where you saw the leakage, does the diamond look overly dark in those areas?
Some leakage is normal, I don't worry about it much if it flashes quickly doesn't make the stone overly dark and helps form patterns and is relatively small.
Start at the outside and look towards the center of stone, does it have pleasing patterns.
Does light play across the stone as you move it?
View it under multiple lighting conditions and different viewing distances.

Have fun with it!

Also thanks to everyone for your input.

Ok thank you, I appreciate it. I'm going to go look at it this week sometime.
 
In the video...I'm not setting any flashing down in the center of the stone...Check to make sure the steps are flashing on/off all the way
down into the center. With some stones the flashing of steps stops part way down (this may be at the P3 facet...need to ask Karlk).

Just make sure it is flashing all the way into the center (I cant really tell enough from the video).

Just as an example look at this stone...the center area seems a bit dead after a certain step about half way down into the stone.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.50-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2702288
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.96-carat-i-color-vs1-clarity-sku-3261984 another dead center
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.02-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-2529903 somewhat dead center

The ultimate asscher cut to me* is one where the steps walk down IN ORDER to the center then walk back out as the stone turns. You dont
find this very off. Usually steps flash on/off independently. The "ultimate asscher" steps draw you down into the center then walk you
back out of the stone. This is my* ultimate asscher cut but they are hard to find.
I coudlnt even find a great example. This is about the closest I could find...notice how it also flashes all the way down into the center.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.65-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-sku-3213845

Good luck! Tell us how the second viewing goes!
 
In the video...I'm not setting any flashing down in the center of the stone...Check to make sure the steps are flashing on/off all the way
down into the center. With some stones the flashing of steps stops part way down (this may be at the P3 facet...need to ask Karlk).

Just make sure it is flashing all the way into the center (I cant really tell enough from the video).

Just as an example look at this stone...the center area seems a bit dead after a certain step about half way down into the stone.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.50-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2702288
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.96-carat-i-color-vs1-clarity-sku-3261984 another dead center
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/2.02-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-2529903 somewhat dead center

The ultimate asscher cut to me* is one where the steps walk down IN ORDER to the center then walk back out as the stone turns. You dont
find this very off. Usually steps flash on/off independently. The "ultimate asscher" steps draw you down into the center then walk you
back out of the stone. This is my* ultimate asscher cut but they are hard to find.
I coudlnt even find a great example. This is about the closest I could find...notice how it also flashes all the way down into the center.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.65-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-sku-3213845

I just wanted to say I loved this post. I'm not looking for an asscher at the moment, but love them and read most related threads. It's so helpful to have linked examples of good and bad effects in the stones, and also the explanation of your preferences. Thanks for helping us all learn! And let us know your thoughts when you revisit the stone, OP!
 
I believe all of us have high hopes for your diamond. We all want it to have life & personality in all light environments, and at every angle! Ultimately, you have the privilege none of us have: you can see her in person! You will be the best to decide if she performs to YOUR expectations!
Please do share your next experience, after you re-examine her!! Fingers crossed she's the one for you!!! :mrgreen2:
 
Hold it over a red or blue surface, preferably reflective. Mylar from a balloon glued to a business card is perfect. Hold the diamond a couple inches from the card.
The table of the diamond needs to be parallel with the card for best results.
Look at it from directly above the table of the diamond.
Don't wear clothing the same color.
Where you see that color in the stone is leakage, now tilt the stone slowly side to side.
Do the leaky areas quickly flash? If so good.
Now tilt the diamond the other way and check that also.
Move the diamond closer to the card, the perfect distance will vary by stone size the larger the diamond the closer it has to be to the Mylar. Repeat.

Now put the stone on your finger in a stone holder and look at the areas where you saw the leakage, does the diamond look overly dark in those areas?
Some leakage is normal, I don't worry about it much if it flashes quickly doesn't make the stone overly dark and helps form patterns and is relatively small.
Start at the outside and look towards the center of stone, does it have pleasing patterns.
Does light play across the stone as you move it?
View it under multiple lighting conditions and different viewing distances.

Have fun with it!
This is fantastic Karl. Is there a way to pin this somehow? SO helpful for a way to evaluate a step-cut!
 
So I put a deposit down with the jeweler I am working with and he is going to do the setting... like I said I am very comfortable working with them. do you think there is anyway he could acquire this stone so I cou I'd see it in person? I apologize if this is a ridiculous question..
Royal Asschers are hard to come by, especially at such a good price. You would need to call Grace and jump on this from her store.
 
So I put a deposit down with the jeweler I am working with and he is going to do the setting... like I said I am very comfortable working with them. do you think there is anyway he could acquire this stone so I cou I'd see it in person? I apologize if this is a ridiculous question..

I think the only way would be your your to buy it from JBG and compare with your selected stone. If you prefer the one you selected, you can return the JBG one.

"Despite our best efforts to describe the pieces with our detailed photos, we realize that you may not love the piece in person. Hence, our 3-day unconditional, no-questions-asked guarantee. If you let us know by the 3rd day from receipt of the item that you wish to return it, we will happily take it back and offer a 100% refund of the purchase price. Please email client services at [email protected] to begin the return and/or exchange process.

Items must be returned in their original condition, with all the documentation and certificates originally provided. Items must have not been sized nor altered in any way by a party other than Jewels by Grace."
http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/client-services
 
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