Asscher Cuff—Bezel or Faux Bezel???

[olliejames]

Hi Everyone,
I have ordered two custom cut 5mm asschers from Distinctive Gem and I’m working with David Klass to set them into an open cuff bangle. I have a pretty good idea of how I want it to look but I keep going back and forth on whether to have the stones set in a true bezel or a faux bezel. I want milgrain either way.

I like the little metal frame of a bezel but sometimes I don’t like if they are not “crisp” or look like they are wrapping up and covering part of the stone. I am looking for a tight metal frame without too much bulk. I am also worried about a real bezel affecting light performance. I want the stones to be set high enough so their crowns stand out a bit. Jon’s asschers look like they have a bit more of a crown.

I’m now thinking about doing a faux bezel with claw prongs like the green stones in the photo below. That would still get me the milgrain frame but maybe avoid the other things I’m worried about. However, now that I’m looking at this photo, it looks like the stone is set low, which is not what I want. Also, I’m wondering if the prongs are making it too busy.

I’ve attached the 2 CADs David has sent me. Any thoughts to help sway me one way or another???. Any input is appreciated!!

 

[whitewave]

I’m personally not a fan of bezeling asschers. I think it cuts their light play

 

[lulu_ma]

Ummm…I love faux bezels for rings but I wonder if full bezel would be better for an open cuff? Just thinking about it from a practicality standpoint. I wonder if David could weigh in about the pros and cons.

 

[olliejames]

Ummm…I love faux bezels for rings but I wonder if full bezel would be better for an open cuff? Just thinking about it from a practicality standpoint. I wonder if David could weigh in about the pros and

I was wondering about the practicality of the faux, also. I asked DK for his thoughts…He sent me updated CADs, but didn’t really weigh in. Thanks for your input!

 

[olliejames]

I’m personally not a fan of bezeling asschers. I think it cuts their light play

Thanks for weighing in!

 

[gregchang35]

I love milgrain bezels.
I love asschers.
I love open cuff and was in the process of getting one done prior to the pandemic, and things changed for me.


So I love this thread as I can see it all unfolding and live vicariously thru this post.

I can also say that a bezel does have an effect on light play. I have nearly finished a project where an asscher is set in a bezel type setting and it has changed the light play. I do not have the ring yet, but I have seen the video of it.

Perhaps you can get DK/ Amy to habe the stone in the wax setting to see if it has changed the light play? I know it isn’t made of similar metal colour to your finished product, but it would be worth asking and reviewing it.

I am not a fan of the faux bezel as the claws as it covers the stone. If the setting you showed is faux bezel, to me it is still a bezel base setting with claws on top? So, it may mean light play will be different (due to the bezel base and then the claws affecting the visual, too. Well, that is what I am thinking, but it may not have that effect.

Perhaps ask DK/ Amy?

 

[iluvcarats]

I have a bracelet with a bezeled asscher, and if I could do it again, I would choose a faux bezel. I think the bezel looks a little heavy.

Asscher and French Cut Bracelet

I haven't posted in a while, but I just had this bracelet made for my birthday and anniversary, and wanted to share. It is a 1.00 ct asscher (from GOG) that Gypsy helped me find, and 3.46 ct french cuts in 18k. It was my project, but my sweet DH surprised me by engraving it :love: I love it...

www.pricescope.com

 

[LilAlex]

I would not do talon prongs on a bracelet -- too snaggy, imo.

 

[dk168]

I would bezel everything if I could, so no surprise there when I say I would bezel them.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK