Advice: Royal Asscher (1.93 carat, D, VVS2)

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 8:31:25 PM
Author: emeraldlover1
I''m so jealous, that stone is absolutley amazing. Your future fiance is going to be so happy! I''m sure either way you go for the setting it will be beautiful. If you think you have an idea as to what you want in a design, I suggest that you write down the points that you want to discuss that way you can help stear the discussion in the direction that you want to go. That when when you start to get excited at all the ideas being thrown at you, you don''t forget anything. Good luck, I can''t wait to see it.

Good advice about writing a list. Prices alone might make me go with Leon. For Taffin or Verdura we''re talking closer to $10k (though, Taffin says they will work within my budget).

 

[Gothgrrl]

Wow, whoohoo.....that stone is an absolute stunner. Can''t get any better than that. She is one lucky girl.

 

[emeraldlover1]

Its obvious that you spent the time researching what you want. With the amount of money that you are spending you deserve to get everything that is possible. Some people are just not people, people. With that said, if you are clear about what you want, you should be able to get it. I''m reading this and it doesn''t make sense. What I am trying to say is that I haven''t met any of these people and I''m a huge fan of Leon eventhough I''ve never met him. Even if his way of dealing with people isn''t the best I personally would go into the meeting very specific with what I want, smile, and hope he agrees. Again, just one humble opinion.

 

[Cehrabehra]

Date: 6/4/2007 4:06:23 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/4/2007 4:03:19 PM
Author: mrssalvo

I personally am a huge fan of Mark Morrell. but for a pave setting, I''d still go with Leon

Yet another Leon vote. Okay, I''m definitely going to meet with him, unless for some reason he breaks my appointment with him.

So who else? Does anyone have experience with or knowledge of Taffin, Verdura, etc.?

leon is good for pave, but MM IMO is good for metal.

 

[Cehrabehra]

Date: 6/4/2007 5:46:17 PM
Author: fanboy
We''ll see. I have an appointment with Leon in a week and a half. I actually happen to like a lot of his settings. I''m afraid though that he will try to push me into one of his stock designs without taking the time to discuss the finer points.

Well since you''re feeling pretty open, I would go to him, bring your stone, and say - here are the few limitations (want it to look bigger or whatever) and I want it to be a unique, one of a kind design - if I set you free to do whatever, what would you do to make this stone really be showcased?

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 8:45:18 PM
Author: Gothgrrl
Wow, whoohoo.....that stone is an absolute stunner. Can''t get any better than that. She is one lucky girl.

Thanks, I''m really excited about having it set. It''s hard concentrating at work.

I''m really surprised at how hard it is to find information about high-end bespoke jewelry on the internet. Obviously, this is the place to come for discussion about the diamonds themselves, but I wish the bespoke world of jewelry were more accessible. Perhaps I am being a snob in attempting to look beyond the small local jewelers who can make something up.

When I went to Cartier and Harry Winston to ask about bespoke services, they seemed to scoff at the notion that one could buy a nice enough diamond to be worth putting into an expensive setting. I would have thought that the absolute best gems out there would be reserved specifically for bespoke jewelry.

 

[swingirl]

First of all your Royal Asscher is gorgeous!!! Breath-taking and will look beautiful in any setting! But about that setting...

One thing people need to realize about Leon Mege. He is not a "tell me your dream design and we'll create it together". He does a very specific sytyle of work and IF you like that style it can be a great experience ending in a fabulous piece. But he does not change his style. If you look at his website closely you'll see that most of the pieces look like variations of eachother. This is the style he works in and that will not change. The reason he doesn't need more that 15 to 30 minutes is because you will be picking from a list of items he offers. The basic style of ring as shown on his website, with pave or without, single or double-claw prongs, side stones, etc. He does not start from scratch with each client the way some designers do. He only needs to find out which of his designs you like and then go from there. He can be creative within those limits.

So if you see something off his website and you want it JUST LIKE THAT with a minor change, then Leon Mege is the designer for you. But if you want something newly designed, tweaked along the way, a one-of-a-kind creation, there are probably other designers better to work with. Most people who are satisfied with Leon's work are so because they saw something he did and wanted one either JUST like that or ALMOST like that. It's also why it is so easy to work with him over the phone. You tell him you love a ring on his website and he tells you what he thinks would make the whole thing work. And then you say, "Do it!" and it turns out perfect. There are no interum photos, hardly any communication, and then you get the package!

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 9:08:52 PM
Author: swingirl
First of all your Royal Asscher is gorgeous!!! Breath-taking and will look beautiful in any setting! But about that setting...

One thing people need to realize about Leon Mege. He is not a ''tell me your dream design and we''ll create it together''. He does a very specific sytyle of work and IF you like that style it can be a great experience ending in a fabulous piece. But he does not change his style. If you look at his website closely you''ll see that most of the pieces look like variations of eachother. This is the style he works in and that will not change. The reason he doesn''t need more that 15 to 30 minutes is because you will be picking from a list of items he offers.

In the world of men''s tailoring, this level of design doesn''t qualify as ''custom'' or ''bespoke'', but rather ''made-to-order'' or ''made-to-measure''. If the premium I pay for somebody like James de Givenchy goes toward a truly bespoke ring, designed from a blank slate, than it may well be worth it. I buy bespoke clothes for myself--I want my girlfriend to have something made just for her as well.

But there must be more bespoke jewelers out there!

 

[starryeyed]

Fanboy, that Royal Asscher is absolutely gorgeous!

It is a spectacular stone! One in a million!

I just had my asscher set by Leon Mege. Here is the THREAD. I am also attaching a picture.

I am thrilled with the ring - he did such an incredible job! What strike me most about his work are the precision and delicacy. I''m not sure of your budget, but this setting is probably within your numbers. You could add more pave on the sides of the shank or on the head, like "Pokey''s" ring, if you want.

I love the way the double-claw prongs accentuate the windmills of the asscher. LM''s the master at these.

He gets my vote.

 

[simplysplendid]

Hi,

May I just say that an IF clarity diamond is NOT Flawless? It just means that it looks flawless at 10X magnification under the loupe. You might find other inclusions or "flaws" when it is magnified say at 20X. So if it is just something that you want because you think it represents purity or something, then you should consider again. From a value for money perspective, a VVS scores better. Stick with what you have.

I think most ladies would prefer the budget to go towards something they can see, not something that they can''t. Even more so if they know IF does not mean it is a flawless stone.

 

[vespergirl]

What an incredible stone! I can''t wait to see the finished product!

 

[fanboy]

For anyone interested, I heard back from Garrard in NYC: they will do bespoke commissions using client-supplied diamonds and the rings are designed from scratch. It looks promising.

 

[elmo]

Date: 6/6/2007 1:57:37 PM
Author: fanboy
For anyone interested, I heard back from Garrard in NYC: they will do bespoke commissions using client-supplied diamonds and the rings are designed from scratch. It looks promising.

Nice catalog there - link.

Cehra, with your new avatar, you definitely want to check out ''Yorick''

. Some nice matched cushions too.

 

[Heileman&Co.]

If you haven''t already bought and someone hasn''t already mentioned it, it would be more beneficial to get and EX polish and symetry bofore upgrading clarity at that point

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Fanboy, your diamond is certainly gorgeous! Leon Mege does custom work. Your ring would under no circumstances be a "stock" setting. He does traditional styles, and there are only so many of those. You already indicated you wanted a simple and elegant setting to showcase the stone. I personally don''t think you can do better than a Leon setting if you want pave. There is nothing wrong with telling him which styles you like best and discuss any changes you''d like. It''s not rocket science, and I think if you even started with another designer, you''d still start by showing them samples of rings you like. That''s just the most efficient way to begin the discussion.

 

[pricescope]

Date: 6/6/2007 3:54:20 PM
Author: elmo

Date: 6/6/2007 1:57:37 PM
Author: fanboy
For anyone interested, I heard back from Garrard in NYC: they will do bespoke commissions using client-supplied diamonds and the rings are designed from scratch. It looks promising.

Nice catalog there - link.

Cehra, with your new avatar, you definitely want to check out 'Yorick'

. Some nice matched cushions too.

I honestly thought you are kidding elmo... but you were not

...what will we see next - an electric chair working model covered with diamonds except those electrodes parts (diamonds are dielectric)? Human guts on DBTY chain?

 

[chrono]

Gosh, the catalog got me started on a drool fest. The ones that I get crazy about are the coloured gemstones stuff. They have very unique designs and yummy stones. I wonder how large those pieces are...

 

[Gypsy]

Hi Fanboy,

First, you have excellent taste and clearly want your lady to have the most perfect and unique engagement ring you can buy for her. And you are off to a wonderful start with that RA of yours.


If I may offer a suggestion: It depends of course on your lady...but I think that if it were me, I would love to be proposed to with that lovely loose diamond, and have the opportunity to have some input into the setting design process. Especially as it will be a ''bespoke'' pieces, and one of a kind.

 

[widget]

EXCELLENT suggestion, Gypsy!

widget

 

[Stone Hunter]

That is a STUNNING!!! stone. Congratulations on your purchase. It is just beautiful.

As far as settings go I''d go with the person that you feel most comfortable with. I also like Gypsy''s idea of getting your GF''s input.

 

[Circe]

Gorgeous, gorgeous rock! You should be proud of yourself for finding this - your girlfriend will be delighted! I like your motivations in wanting her to have the very best, design-wise. Now, from the sound of it, you''re in NY, which makes life much easier for you: design-wise, are you interested in the reputation/name, or is it primarily a case of workmanship? Because, by going to one of the bench jewelers who do the work for the big houses, you might be able to satisfy your design urges quite nicely ... these are generally incredibly skilled jewelers and designers who might not have the capital for a storefront, but who will work on commission. The only tricky part is locating one whose personal style suits your needs. If you''re interested in name *and* workmanship, have you thought of Buccellati? They do wonderful, elegant work. Alternately, I believe a few people on the board have found remarkably beautiful solitaire settings at Locke''s ....

 

[kcoursolle]

Date: 6/6/2007 3:54:20 PM
Author: elmo

Date: 6/6/2007 1:57:37 PM
Author: fanboy
For anyone interested, I heard back from Garrard in NYC: they will do bespoke commissions using client-supplied diamonds and the rings are designed from scratch. It looks promising.

Nice catalog there - link.

Cehra, with your new avatar, you definitely want to check out ''Yorick''

. Some nice matched cushions too.

Wow, very cool and eclectic catelog. Beautiful designs!

 

[fanboy]

Wow, thanks for all the replies.

Well, with regard to polish and symmetry, both are rated Excellent on the GIA report. Yes, the stone is already in my possession.

I am most interested in workmanship. I am secondarily interested in design guidance and future service. I understand I can find top-notch workmanship from a variety of sources in NYC (though, if anyone knows of any other than Leon Mege, I''d be happy to hear about them), but it''s hard to identify them. Also, it would take at least some reputation in knowledgeable circles to get me to hand over my diamond to a jeweler. Thus, when it comes to workmanship, I find myself focussing largely on the big firms and jewelers with established reputations. I will have to look into Buccellati and Locke.

While I have a sense of what design I want, I have little experience with what is tasteful and what would work well with my particular stone. Thus, I want to get guidance with regard to my pre-existing ideas as well as totall-out-there suggestions. I like the fact that Garrard is going to send me drawings of what they propose before I meet them and that they do the work in their London workshop, not sub-contracted to a place in NYC (thus no fear of an over-priced Leon Mege).

I don''t think the brand or name are themselves important, but they do tend to correlate with quality. ''Leon Mege'' is essentially a name brand on this forum, after all. If I am dealing with a jeweler or craftsman that is well recognized, I''ll need much more substantive information about his work before I work with him.

Anyway, the nice thing about Garrard is that they will do the ring from the ground up and I''m not limited to picking and choosing elements from stock designs. Also, it''s kind of nice that they are making the ring in London since my girlfriend is part English.

I''m curious as to what wacky designs Taffin may propose . . .

At any rate, this could all be for not if the price is too high. But from my understanding, it won''t be that much higher than Leon Mege. And frankly, for the price I paid for this diamond, a little premium for the setting is no big deal.

 

[risingsun]

Date: 6/6/2007 4:22:09 PM
Author: Pricescope

Date: 6/6/2007 3:54:20 PM
Author: elmo

Date: 6/6/2007 1:57:37 PM
Author: fanboy
For anyone interested, I heard back from Garrard in NYC: they will do bespoke commissions using client-supplied diamonds and the rings are designed from scratch. It looks promising.

Nice catalog there - link.

Cehra, with your new avatar, you definitely want to check out ''Yorick''

. Some nice matched cushions too.

I honestly thought you are kidding elmo... but you were not

...what will we see next - an electric chair working model covered with diamonds except those electrodes parts (diamonds are dielectric)? Human guts on DBTY chain?

"Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him, Horatio: a fellow of infinite jest, of most excellent fancy..." I don''t think I''ll be choosing anything from this collection

 

[bigdiamondtinygal]

Fanboy,

Have you thought about checking out Mimi So? I believe she is in NYC as well and definitely would have the high quality workmanship very thin band micropave style look that you''re going for (which I think is perfect for a stone like that). You should absolutely go for a setting that will not detract from that stone. It is spectacular and it should be the star of the show, if you will.

In fact if I were setting that stone, I might choose to do a very thin band (a la 2-2.5 mm or so) with single row micro-pave on the band (top and profile a-la-tacori) with very delicate double-claw prongs. I''d be reluctant to have the micropave on or near the basket as I fear this may take away from the stone.

Just my 2 cents.