Advice: Royal Asscher (1.93 carat, D, VVS2)

[fanboy]

Sorry, I meant to reply a while ago, but I got caught up with moving to NYC. I decided to go with the D VVS2 Royal Asscher. I had it appraised, and the appraiser actually rated it VVS1. Is there a way to get this thing looked at by the GIA again?

I thought a lot about the size, but at the end of the day I realized that this diamond is way bigger than my girlfriend expects and, more importantly, she's never been one to compare what she's got to what other girls got. Even if she did, she'd know size isn't everything. From casual conversations with her, it appears she thinks even 1 ct. would be huge, so I'm hoping this diamond will blow her away.

Now I just need help getting this thing set. I want the highest quality setting possible, regardless of price (hey, I'm spending a fortune on this stone as is, so why not go for broke?). I don't need anything ridiculously ornate. I'm thinking very thin band, micro-pave everywhere.

At this point, I've made appointments with James de Givenchy at Taffin, Leon Mege, and Verdura. What other places should I try in New York City? Does Garrard set loose stones? Cartier says they won't do it--is there someone in particular there who will be more amenable to my request?

I'm looking for the absolute highest quality craftmenship possible. Any advice is more than welcome. Thanks so much for your guidance thus far.

 

[widget]

Date: 6/4/2007 11:33:38 AM
Author: fanboy
Now I just need help getting this thing set. I want the highest quality setting possible, I don''t need anything ridiculously ornate. I''m thinking very thin band, micro-pave everywhere.

At this point, I''ve made appointments with James de Givenchy at Taffin, Leon Mege, and Verdura. I''m looking for the absolute highest quality craftmenship possible.

How exciting!!!!! I''d love to hear how these appointments go, and your impressions of each of these designers. Please????

I doubt that you can go wrong with any of them....quality-wise. The only one I''ve had personal experience with is LM (I know he does work for HW, and at least one well known high-end Beverly Hills dealer.... and he is known for his pave work.)

Since you''re looking for something classic and simple, I''d probably go with him and save some bucks...

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[Cehrabehra]

Date: 6/4/2007 11:33:38 AM
Author: fanboy
Sorry, I meant to reply a while ago, but I got caught up with moving to NYC. I decided to go with the D VVS2 Royal Asscher. I had it appraised, and the appraiser actually rated it VVS1. Is there a way to get this thing looked at by the GIA again?

I thought a lot about the size, but at the end of the day I realized that this diamond is way bigger than my girlfriend expects and, more importantly, she''s never been one to compare what she''s got to what other girls got. Even if she did, she''d know size isn''t everything. From casual conversations with her, it appears she thinks even 1 ct. would be huge, so I''m hoping this diamond will blow her away.

Now I just need help getting this thing set. I want the highest quality setting possible, regardless of price (hey, I''m spending a fortune on this stone as is, so why not go for broke?). I don''t need anything ridiculously ornate. I''m thinking very thin band, micro-pave everywhere.

At this point, I''ve made appointments with James de Givenchy at Taffin, Leon Mege, and Verdura. What other places should I try in New York City? Does Garrard set loose stones? Cartier says they won''t do it--is there someone in particular there who will be more amenable to my request?

I''m looking for the absolute highest quality craftmenship possible. Any advice is more than welcome. Thanks so much for your guidance thus far.

awesome!

First I wouldn''t worry about sending it to GIA to have them reevaluate VVS2 to VVS1 - it''s WAAAAAY overkill. We''re talking things you can''t even really find with a loupe anyway so skip it IMO.

Second, I would keep the setting subtle - you''ve got an amazing royal asscher, I would play TO *that* stone rather than going with a lot of pave for the sake of a lot of pave. I still think tierhog''s royal asscher setting is just amazing and really plays to the strengths of the stone and turns whatever weakness there might be to its benefit. I think asschers really look amazing with shiny metals to mirror them.

 

[kcoursolle]

Your gf is going to be thrilled with a 1.93 D VVS1/2 royal asscher!!!! I think leon would be the perfect person to set such an amazing stone. What type of settings does she like?

 

[fanboy]

Thanks for all the enthusiasm--I'm very excited. I'm hearing lots of votes for Leon Mege. He seems to be the de facto guy to go to for nice custom settings on this forum. I just wanted to get a sense of what else is out there. I'm used to buying bespoke items in the universe of men's luxury goods, not women's.

All I can really find are Verdura and Taffin (in NYC). Cartier doesn't seem to want to deal with me and they were ridiculously snobby at the Fifth Avenue store. Asprey won't work with client-supplied stones. I have yet to check with Garrard. Cellini, whom I've bought watches from, will work with me, but their options seem limited and I have a sneaking suspicion that they use Leon Mege anyway.

There have got to be more options for high-end jewelry design in NYC--any ideas?

I am indeed planning on something simple. I want a very delicate setting to emphasize the stone (and make it look bigger). I can draw out something myself, and may just commission my own design without modification, but I'd like the input and suggestions of a top designer too.

 

[fanboy]

By the way. how do I post images? I have pictures of the loose diamond.

 

[kcoursolle]

Date: 6/4/2007 1:39:39 PM
Author: fanboy
Thanks for all the enthusiasm--I''m very excited. I''m hearing lots of votes for Leon Mege. He seems to be the de facto guy to go to for nice custom settings on this forum. I just wanted to get a sense of what else is out there. I''m used to buying bespoke items in the universe of men''s luxury goods, not women''s.

All I can really find are Verdura and Taffin (in NYC). Cartier doesn''t seem to want to deal with me and they were ridiculously snobby at the Fifth Avenue store. Asprey won''t work with client-supplied stones. I have yet to check with Garrard. Cellini, whom I''ve bought watches from, will work with me, but their options seem limited and I have a sneaking suspicion that they use Leon Mege anyway.

There have got to be more options for high-end jewelry design in NYC--any ideas?

I am indeed planning on something simple. I want a very delicate setting to emphasize the stone (and make it look bigger). I can draw out something myself, and may just commission my own design without modification, but I''d like the input and suggestions of a top designer too.

Danielk would be another thought for high end settings, not sure if he works with customer''s stones or not. I''d still go to leon though because his settings are the best I''ve ever seen.

 

[kcoursolle]

Date: 6/4/2007 1:43:37 PM
Author: fanboy
By the way. how do I post images? I have pictures of the loose diamond.

oooh, yay can''t wait to see it!!

These things will help:
1) rename your pictures to something unusual that hasn''t been used before (rinadrfert instead of stone...for example)
2) resize your pics to under 600 pixels
3) if that doesn''t work, message admin and email them to them and they will be able to post them

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 1:54:31 PM
Author: kcoursolle

Danielk would be another thought for high end settings, not sure if he works with customer''s stones or not. I''d still go to leon though because his settings are the best I''ve ever seen.

Daniel K won''t set clients'' stones. Leon is that good huh? What added value, in your estimation, might I get from going to a place like Taffin or Verdura?

I''m going to try posting pics of the diamond in a moment.

 

[fanboy]

Here it is!

 

[fanboy]

Another shot.

 

[widget]

OMG....it''s beyond gorgeous!!

Author: fanboy

What added value, in your estimation, might I get from going to a place like Taffin or Verdura?

Name...designer label, resale value maybe? (With Verdura, James Givenchy anyway...)

Actually, I''m unfamiliar with their work...(except older, estate stuff by Verdura) do you have any examples of recent pieces by them?

I''m dying to hear your impressions after you''ve met with all these guys!

Maybe in time others will see this thread and have some other suggestions for you. I''m sure there are other superduper-upscale disigners in NYC...

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[fanboy]

It''s incredibly difficult to find examples of Taffin jewelry, nonetheless Taffin engagement rings. However, images to show up in some magazines every now and then. Generally, I like his aesthetic and sense of color--although I don''t know how well these would translate into his version of an engagement ring. However, speaking to James on the phone, he seemed pretty happy to make something more engagement ring-like and less Taffin jewelry-like, if that makes any sense.

Verdura, I''m a little more skeptical of. They don''t seem to have a single ''designer'' per se that would meet with me. It seems that I would just meet with a sales associate, which doesn''t sound promising. If I''m going to pay a premium for a designer, I want to enjoy the benefit of working with one.

 

[kcoursolle]

Wowza, what a beautiful stone!!!

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 2:43:43 PM
Author: kcoursolle
Wowza, what a beautiful stone!!!

Better be for $30k! I know you all say you can''t tell the difference between a D and F or a VVS and a VS, but in your opinion, does this stone qualify as exceptional? That''s what I was aiming for.

 

[widget]

Date: 6/4/2007 2:46:47 PM
Author: fanboy
does this stone qualify as exceptional? That''s what I was aiming for.

LOL...how could a 1.93ct D, VVS-2 Royal Asscher not be exceptional???

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[kcoursolle]

Yes!! It''s exceptional, even for pricescope standards.

 

[strmrdr]

When you want the very best call MM
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 3:33:35 PM
Author: strmrdr
When you want the very best call MM
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/

Thanks for the suggestion, but I need someone in NYC. I want to actually meet with the designer--otherwise, I don''t feel comfortable spending so much money.

If Mr. Morrell is really the best, however, I would certainly consider travelling to Massachusetts.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/4/2007 3:33:35 PM
Author: strmrdr
When you want the very best call MM

http://www.mwmjewelry.com/

I personally am a huge fan of Mark Morrell. but for a pave setting, I''d still go with Leon

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 4:03:19 PM
Author: mrssalvo

I personally am a huge fan of Mark Morrell. but for a pave setting, I''d still go with Leon

Yet another Leon vote. Okay, I''m definitely going to meet with him, unless for some reason he breaks my appointment with him.

So who else? Does anyone have experience with or knowledge of Taffin, Verdura, etc.?

 

[Kaleigh]

Oh be still my heart, that is gorgeous!!! I''d go with Leon for the setting, his work is amazing!!

 

[mrssalvo]

I don''t have experience with Taffin or Verdura. I have however seen michael beaudry, michael b and a Leon ring all at the same place at the same time. each has their own style but all were masterpieces. although Leon doesn''t have the name recognition outside of this board like the others, his work was equal. If I ever decided to do a custom ring, I wouldn''t hesitate to use Leon. I was very surprised at how delicate the ring was even though it was covered in pave. Just stunning work.

 

[canuk-gal]

Date: 6/4/2007 4:06:23 PM
Author: fanboy

Date: 6/4/2007 4:03:19 PM
Author: mrssalvo

I personally am a huge fan of Mark Morrell. but for a pave setting, I''d still go with Leon

Yet another Leon vote. Okay, I''m definitely going to meet with him, unless for some reason he breaks my appointment with him.

So who else? Does anyone have experience with or knowledge of Taffin, Verdura, etc.?

HI:

Regretfully, I have never seen Taffin (designed by James deGivenchy) or Verdura''s work in person. But everything I have ever seen photographed appears utterly amazing (great use of large, unusual and rare colored stones). The Verdura website and catalogue is dreamy.......

cheers--Sharon

 

[fanboy]

Date: 6/4/2007 4:18:51 PM
Author: mrssalvo
I don't have experience with Taffin or Verdura. I have however seen michael beaudry, michael b and a Leon ring all at the same place at the same time. each has their own style but all were masterpieces. although Leon doesn't have the name recognition outside of this board like the others, his work was equal. If I ever decided to do a custom ring, I wouldn't hesitate to use Leon. I was very surprised at how delicate the ring was even though it was covered in pave. Just stunning work.

It's apparent that Leon Mege does work for a number of the high-end stores in Manhattan. Many of these jewelers state that they use 'a workshop in the city'--if not Leon, they are using someone else anyway. Taffin was very clear that they use outside workshops, to their credit. Verdura says they have workshops in New York as well as Italy.

At this price range ($5000+) for a setting, I'd think the workmanship would be top-notch pretty much anywhere. I am most concerned with the design aspect. While I want something simple, I also want to consult with a designer who will make suggestions and implement subtle details as appropriate for my particular stone. I was a little put off by Leon, I admit, when he seemed disinterested in meeting with me and stated that he only needed to set apart 15-30 minutes of time to consult with me. That just doesn't seem right. James at Taffin, on the other hand, seems much more open to an involved consultation.

I undertand Leon Mege takes his work seriously and considers himself an artist, but it's for that reason he should put the needs of his clients first and foremost. If he's not willing to take the time to consult with individual clients about what they want and answer their questions, his 'art' can't possibly reflect its subject particularly well. After all, as much as a ring is about the stone, it's also about the wearer.

Of course, I hope reality is different from my impression and he turns out to be a better service provider. I've dealt with many craftsmen and professionals at the top of their creative fields who may just as rightfully consider their work 'art', but they tend to also be the best at listening to clients and treating them well.

 

[widget]

Well, Leon may not be the man for you. You certainly aren''t the first one to be turned off by his "bedside manner".

The thing is, for me, anyway, I trust his design sense much more than I do my own! I can''t imagine ''improving'' on any of his ideas. If I were you, I certainly wouldn''t write him off without at least one meeting with him.

Also...keep in mind that Tiffin, Fred Leighton, Graff, etc etc might "work with you", but then they''ll pass the results of that work on to their chosen shop (mege or whoever) to manufacture the ring. I''d just want to be sure something wasn''t lost in translation!

Then on the otherhand (am I rambling here?

) maybe Leon is happier and more willing "to work" with a middleman in the biz...

LOL...I''m done with my "input". Whatever you decide...I''m sure it will be fabulous. Can''t wait to hear all about it!

Good luck,
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[fanboy]

Yeah, it sounds like Leon is better at taking orders from vendors.

I don''t intend to trample on his design expertise; obviously, regardless of what I think I want, I''m no expert and can stand to benefit from guidance and ideas. However, designing something like an engagement ring, that ought to be very personal, demands open channels on both sides. The client needs to hand himself over to the designer, to some degree--after all, part of what you''re paying for is expertise and talent. However, the designer needs to hear the needs and concerns of the client in order to come up with the best ideas possible. Architects, bespoke tailors, hair stylists, etc., each follow this model. If a building, suit, or hair cut doesn''t align with the functional needs of the client, they''re no good. The same is true of jewelry. If I wanted a beautiful piece of jewelry designed without substantive consideration of my personal needs, vision, or desires, why go custom in the first place?

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/4/2007 5:07:51 PM
Author: fanboy
Yeah, it sounds like Leon is better at taking orders from vendors.


I don''t intend to trample on his design expertise; obviously, regardless of what I think I want, I''m no expert and can stand to benefit from guidance and ideas. However, designing something like an engagement ring, that ought to be very personal, demands open channels on both sides. The client needs to hand himself over to the designer, to some degree--after all, part of what you''re paying for is expertise and talent. However, the designer needs to hear the needs and concerns of the client in order to come up with the best ideas possible. Architects, bespoke tailors, hair stylists, etc., each follow this model. If a building, suit, or hair cut doesn''t align with the functional needs of the client, they''re no good. The same is true of jewelry. If I wanted a beautiful piece of jewelry designed without substantive consideration of my personal needs, vision, or desires, why go custom in the first place?

Fanboy, you raise very good points and what you''ve said is why a few have chosen not too go with Leon. However, there have also been those who were unsure and after meeting with him felt better and moved forward. Since you have the luxury of being in NY, I see no reason to at least give him a chance and if you don''t click simply move on to some of the others you have mentioned.

I personally was way to stressed out to even attempt a custom setting for my e-ring so I understand wanting to find the right match to make a vision come to life.

 

[fanboy]

We''ll see. I have an appointment with Leon in a week and a half. I actually happen to like a lot of his settings. I''m afraid though that he will try to push me into one of his stock designs without taking the time to discuss the finer points.

 

[emeraldlover1]

I''m so jealous, that stone is absolutley amazing. Your future fiance is going to be so happy! I''m sure either way you go for the setting it will be beautiful. If you think you have an idea as to what you want in a design, I suggest that you write down the points that you want to discuss that way you can help stear the discussion in the direction that you want to go. That when when you start to get excited at all the ideas being thrown at you, you don''t forget anything. Good luck, I can''t wait to see it.