Advice please on a Platinum band discoloring from a loved PS vendor

[RayRay]

Hi - is there ever a situation in which Platinum should discolor or tarnish into a brown / orange-ish color??

I purchased a custom-made platinum band from a well known and loved PS vendor (I'd prefer not to say who as I do plan on future purchases if we can come to a resolution on this issue). I had to send it back a couple times for resizing and touch-ups. After receiving the last time, I immediately noticed that parts of the platinum where the stones are joined is starting to discolor! It appears to be an orange / brown color. I have other much less expensive platinum bands and have never seen this happen. I wanted to check with the experts before discussing with the vendor. What resolution would you ask for? I'm beginning to feel that the band needs to be replaced / redone...

Thank you all!

 

[AprilBaby]

I would call the vendor and ask, I’m sure they will make it right. I am very acidic and I have had 14kt gold tarnish on me. I have never worn platinum.

 

[Karl_K]

1st thing to do is have it professionally steam clean it to make sure it isn't polishing compound or something on the ring.
This can be done locally.

The second common possibility is that the plating was contaminated and it needs to be stripped and replated.

 

[RayRay]

Thank you! I had no idea that Platinum was plated. I always thought that plating only applied for white gold.

 

[Karl_K]

Thank you! I had no idea that Platinum was plated. I always thought that plating only applied for white gold.

Many plat settings are also plated to make them whiter.
I should have said IF it was plated.

What can happen some times is that polishing compound can stay in the nooks and crannies of the setting after cleaning.
Sweat and other chemicals soften it and it flows out.
It is often brownish orangish to brownish black.
That it was recently worked on makes that a real possibility.
Another steam cleaning could remove it.
It could also be something on the ring.

 

[rockysalamander]

I wonder what solder they used? Solders that melt under 1300 degrees can leave fire scale. I'd expect them to have used a higher Plat content solder, but what you describe could be firescale. Platinum is also devilishly easy to contaminate. Most benches have seperate equipment and stations for gold and platinum. But, grab the wrong tool and you have gold in your platinum. I'd send it back for examination and, just fyi, I'd ask if they can laser weld vs solder if they did. Alloy colors can vary, so ask that they use the same.

 

[MissGotRocks]

Yes, the solder would be my guess too. I have never heard of platinum tarnishing but I have had that red/brown tarnish on earrings where the posts met the setting.

 

[LightBright]

I wonder what solder they used? Solders that melt under 1300 degrees can leave fire scale. I'd expect them to have used a higher Plat content solder, but what you describe could be firescale. Platinum is also devilishly easy to contaminate. Most benches have seperate equipment and stations for gold and platinum. But, grab the wrong tool and you have gold in your platinum. I'd send it back for examination and, just fyi, I'd ask if they can laser weld vs solder if they did. Alloy colors can vary, so ask that they use the same.

Rockysalamander, Noobie question here, are you saying that laser welding doesn’t use solder, but welding does? (OT I’ve developed excema from a platinum hand-forged -antique- ring and believe it’s from the solder used. The solder is a different color than the base metal.). If laser welding doesn’t use any solder that would be ideal for those in my situation and for those who don’t want a color difference showing like the OP, if in fact that’s the problem.

 

[RayRay]

Thank you all for the advice. I'll contact the vendor and let you know what they say... Happy Friday

 

[rockysalamander]

Rockysalamander, Noobie question here, are you saying that laser welding doesn’t use solder, but welding does? (OT I’ve developed excema from a platinum hand-forged -antique- ring and believe it’s from the solder used. The solder is a different color than the base metal.). If laser welding doesn’t use any solder that would be ideal for those in my situation and for those who don’t want a color difference showing like the OP, if in fact that’s the problem.

When you laser things (like a prong), you simply use a piece of the correct alloy. You are melting both pieces of metal with the laser and then they flow together and fuse (being a bit imprecise in my terms). The laser operates at a temp above the melting point of the metals. The other benefit of a laser is that the heat is very concentrated and you often can work near less heat sensitive stones without unsetting them. Give that you can damage diamonds from too much heat or lost color in certain types of treatment in CS, a 'cold' area around the work is helpful.

What jewelers call soldering is really brazing (a pedantic difference based on the temperature of the work). But, that aside, they are using solder to bridge the gap between two pieces of metal. The work is done below the melting point of the metal, but enough to melt the solder. Flux is applied before to help clean the metal and get the solder to flow where and how you want it to flow. It is the solder that is filling any voids (although you should have very very few if your prep work was properly done). The solder is flowing into the metals 'pores' and spaces to make the join. For a large gap, you would cut a piece of metal and the solder it at both ends. So, solders alloys vary greatly to allow for a variety of working temps and metals. Platinum itself won't get firescale, but the solder can. It should be removed in finishing, but stuff happen sometimes.

But, you can still get a color difference with a laser. If you are making something smaller, you won't introduce any new metal. No color issue. But, if you make something bigger or introduce a new piece metal, a color difference can occur. Particularly on vintage/antique rings, the alloys used can be quite variable due to the various war efforts using precious metals. I don't assume a jeweler will be able to make a perfect colorless joint every time on old pieces. Its important to keep in mind that the tools and materials used now differ quite a bit from the time the ring was made. That is good in many ways, but it also means that there may be times when evidence of a repair or sizing or retip may remain.. Also, there will still be lots of reasons that a jeweler may recommend a solder joint over a laser, assuming they own both equipment. So, you really have to know your jeweler and weigh the merits over both.

But, before you are sure it is the solder, do a test... Every day, wash the ring in soap and water. Assuming it is not an opal or other fragile stone, soak in rubbing alcohol for a bit, remove and let dry over night. Wash your finger and wear no ring to bed. When you wash your hands during the day, slide the ring up and thoroughly dry the finger under the ring and the ring. Do this for a week or two. It might not help, but this resolves things for many.