A Question on James Allen Soldering...

[lewood]

Hi! I reset my diamond in a James Allen solitaire setting a little over a month ago. I paid the extra $$$ to have a platinum setting; however, I am concerned that white gold solder was used to join the head to the shank, which really upsets me. Does anyone know if James Allen uses white gold solder on their platinum rings? Should I have it tested by a local jeweler (is that possible)? I'm just so discouraged and upset thus far- I just like when things are done right the first time.......

Any insight and advice would be greatly appreciated...thanks

 

[denverappraiser]

It's not all that hard to tell and a capable appraiser should be able to tell you what was used. Whether or not your local jeweler is capable depends on the jeweler. Some are and some aren't. Unfortunately, I would have to say that most aren't.

I would start by asking this question directly to the JA folks. There's a decent chance they've got fairly detailed records on who made your ring and how. That may answer your question right off the bat for zero budget. If you've already done this and you are concerned that they're lying to you for some reason, seek out an appraiser, preferably one that isn't a competitor with the seller and who doesn't have a dog in this fight.

 

[lewood]

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain that to me. I did contact JA, and since it is President's Day, the manufacturing team off today, so tomorrow a JA's representative will contact them to get a detailed report on what was used to construct my ring. He said the manufacturing team could have done 1 of 2 things: used white gold to solder the head to the shank or use a laser to weld the two pieces together. I am hoping a laser was used. Please keep your fingers crossed!

On the same note, why would the manufacturing team at JA have two techniques when joining pieces of platinum together? You would think they would like consistency. The representative I spoke with said it all depends on which manufacturer you get to work on your ring as to which technique they used.....for some reason that seems a little sketchy to me. I would think soldering with white gold should only be done on white gold rings and a laser should most definitely be the only option used on platinum rings.

**Sigh***...we'll see what happens!!! I never knew owning an engagement ring would be such a hassle. My wedding band should be coming within the next week or two from The Facets Collection- I have yet to read a negative review regarding that company, so I have high hopes!

 

[denverappraiser]

Different manufacturers do it differently and the same manufacturer may not do it the same on every design. I wouldn't expect the sales people to be all that up on the details and it's entirely reasonable for them to postpone answering your question until they can consult with someone who is.

Certain designs involve a space at the bottom of the head between the bridge and the bottom of the prongs that needs to be filled with solder. That's the way the designers made them to be built and there's not really a goood way to do it with a laser. The usual way this is done is to weld the peg on with a laser to hold the prongs in at just the right point, adjust the head so that it's straight and at the right rotation, and then use solder to complete the job. They do make platinum solders for this, but they're mostly alloy and not platinum so it's a tossup if there's anything gained by not using white gold solder for this. I'm happy to answer your questions but it's unusual to have a customer quite so concerned about the construction details and it seems to be an important topic for you. May I ask why?

 

[lewood]

I'm just concerned that the yellowing from the solder (if that what was used) is or will become more prominent, which is a little frustrating because I thought I was bypassing that inconvenience (of rhodium plating) by purchasing platinum.

When you say soldering is consisted of alloy, which is a tossup, what do you mean? Is pure platinum solder hard to come by? Perhaps I am confused on what solder consists of.

Thanks again for your help!

 

[denverappraiser]

Jewelry platinum is usually 90% or 95% platinum with the balance being iridum, ruthinium and occasionally other things. They do this because it increases durability, flow for casting etc. 14k gold is 58% gold with the balance other things. 18k is 75% gold, etc. The 'other' material is called 'alloy'. Solder is designed to have a lower melting point than the surrounding metal so that the jeweler can heat it up to the melting point of the solder melts but the bulk of the metal stays solid. This is done by tweaking the recipie for the alloy. In the case of platinum solders, it's mostly alloy (In some cases it's ALL alloy).

Most platinum jobs are rhodium plated at the end anyway, just to give it an even look. The plating only wears off at the high points, which does not include the joint at the base of the head so you shouldn't have yellowing issues no matter how they assembled it.