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6.34 ct Royal Blue Asscher Lab Sapphire from Finewater, how to set?

vintageinjune

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In true PS fashion, I went a completely different direction than initially planned.

My spouse and I celebrated our 10 year wedding anniversary this summer, and I was given the go ahead to find the lab diamond I wanted for my 10 year anniversary ring. There was one I fell in love with last year that we were not in a position to purchase at the time, and it is "the one that got away". Fast forward and while reviewing a curated list of options from a trusted vendor, "my" diamond showed up again! Initially the vendor said they could get it for me, but after a week or so the distrubutor informed us it had sold long ago. I was crushed, decided to give myself a few weeks to deal with the disappointment and some family issues that had arisen. Then it popped up again on another website, but they were charging twice what the first vendor quoted me, not to mention this is a retailer we strongly discourage people from. Regardless, I tried to set up an appointment to see the diamond in person, but they wanted 50% down to "prevent it from selling", insisting that was the only way to put a hold on a diamond to be brought in. I did find "my" diamond for sale for a few thousand less on another website, but by now, I'm frustrated, emotionally I'm drained from the hope-bust cycle as well as personal family issues, and decided "Forget it, I'll get something else I've wanted for ages that is much less expensive, and save the extra funds to take my brother and his kids to Disneyland next year!"

So that is how I ended up contacting Gary at Finewater Gems, requesting a quote for a made-to-order 9mm asscher cut royal blue lab sapphire. He was so kind, prompt with communication, and had the sapphire done in 6 days from payment. I was out of town when it was completed and he was kind enough to hold on to it and overnight shipped it to me upon my return.

Historically, I've had less luck with colored gemstones of any variety, as they never seem to look the same in person as they do in vendor photos/videos, but Gary seems to be very accurate based on pictures I've seen shared here, and I'm pleased to report that my sapphire does indeed match the color of his photos. It changes in different lighting of course, but any light catches that gorgeous blue.

Now though, I have a 6.34 ct, 9mm sapphire that I was mentally unprepared to set. First, some photos of the stone, then some ideas I have. IMG_20220804_134406_127.jpg 20220814_094016.jpg 20220814_094215.jpg 20220814_094401.jpg 20220814_094659.jpg 20220814_095804.jpg
 

vintageinjune

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I've always loved kite set styles, which is visualized a bit in the last photo of my first post, but I sort of had my heart set on a 3 stone for the cheezy "past, present, future" symbolism, and am unsure what type of side stone shape would work with that orientation.

I have a few photos saved for ideas, but would love any other suggestions people have on what would compliment this stone, as well as my size 4 finger. =)

s-l500 (4).jpg 15600383426608-3.jpg haloidea.png
 

winnietucker

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How about something like this?
 

vintageinjune

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How about something like this?

Ooo, I had not considered that for a colored stone!

I was also thinking maybe something like this, kite set, with prongs N/S/E/W, with bezeled and sculpted prongs on shield or kite emerald side stones?

 

dk168

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Yup, I have a few lab CSs from Gary, including a 4.74ct/8.1mm blue Asscher Sapphire.

It has yet to be set, however, it is most likely to be another air line/gap halo of some sort (I love air line/gap halos :lol-2:), something like this without the millgrain and less shoulder details, may with some baguettes in the halo in the middle of each side:

10353-Vintage-Asscher-Halo-with-Tri-Wire-Shank-1-5c9beaefcb6f69e76f647870.png

Some 45deg set inspiration ring designs that I like:

173ad-373x3-aquamarine-engagement-ring-with-surrounding-diamonds-620h-650.jpg 3818aq-art-deco-aquamarine-cluster-ring-yellow-gold-and-platinum-2201x8-560h-650.jpg
Purple-Sapphire-Tango-Ring10.gif Pink-Sapphire-Tango-Ring-13.gif

May be a 3 or 5-stone with baguettes on the side, or Moissy step cut traps:

Capture.JPG

This is quite nice IMHO too and would give a good finger coverage and sparkles:

art-deco-sapphire-and-diamond-ring-4_1_30-1-5005.jpg

I quite like this bar set too:
Emerald#1.PNG


I don't want to spend too much on the setting as it is a lab stone and blue is not that high on my list of colours that I like to wear. Hence I got a lab stone as I don't want to spend thousands on a real Sapphire of the same colour and clarity.

I have a JW blue Asscher Zircon waiting to be set, and I shall spend a bit more on its setting.

DK :))
 

dk168

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Hmmm, with your slender finger, a 45deg set may be too wide when set with 2 side stones.

Step cuts such as carré or Asscher cuts would be my choice for a 3-stone ring set at 45deg.

DK :))
 

vintageinjune

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Yup, I have a few lab CSs from Gary, including a 4.74ct/8.1mm blue Asscher Sapphire.

It has yet to be set, however, it is most likely to be another air line/gap halo of some sort (I love air line/gap halos :lol-2:), something like this without the millgrain and less shoulder details, may with some baguettes in the halo in the middle of each side:

10353-Vintage-Asscher-Halo-with-Tri-Wire-Shank-1-5c9beaefcb6f69e76f647870.png

Some 45deg set inspiration ring designs that I like:

173ad-373x3-aquamarine-engagement-ring-with-surrounding-diamonds-620h-650.jpg 3818aq-art-deco-aquamarine-cluster-ring-yellow-gold-and-platinum-2201x8-560h-650.jpg
Purple-Sapphire-Tango-Ring10.gif Pink-Sapphire-Tango-Ring-13.gif

May be a 3 or 5-stone with baguettes on the side, or Moissy step cut traps:

Capture.JPG

This is quite nice IMHO too and would give a good finger coverage and sparkles:

art-deco-sapphire-and-diamond-ring-4_1_30-1-5005.jpg

I quite like this bar set too:
Emerald#1.PNG


I don't want to spend too much on the setting as it is a lab stone and blue is not that high on my list of colours that I like to wear. Hence I got a lab stone as I don't want to spend thousands on a real Sapphire of the same colour and clarity.

I have a JW blue Asscher Zircon waiting to be set, and I shall spend a bit more on its setting.

DK :))

Your Finewater lab sapphire is what ultimately made me feel comfortable with the purchase, so thank you so, so much for sharing pictures of your gemstones from Gary. <3 Thank you for sharing some inspiration pictures with me!

I don't mind spending a good chunk on the setting, even if it is 4-6x the cost of the stone itself, ultimately I just want a gorgeous, "me" ring. In color. :D

This was another idea I found on my search, only with asschers, obviously.

B8C96D8C-F4EA-4DFA-8E6F-B73A7699C903.png
 

vintageinjune

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Hmmm, with your slender finger, a 45deg set may be too wide when set with 2 side stones.

Step cuts such as carré or Asscher cuts would be my choice for a 3-stone ring set at 45deg.

DK :))

It's entirely possible a 3 stone won't work well with the 45 degree set on my finger size, in which case I'd definitely go the halo route, either with an emerald one like above or like this but with emeralds or violet sapphires in the halo instead of diamonds:

c14be42784866d8bb75dbf079364e57b_preview.jpeg
 

Peary

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Gary is the best out of all the gem cutters I've worked with (I've worked with 4 for custom cuts). Gary is very responsive and is very detailed and straight forward with his answers. His prices are very fair, and I'm happy to pay more for excellent customer service. Jeff White is great, but he's got a long back log right now and he's much slower to respond, but he's very pleasant and polite, he does have a $500 minimum for custom cuts though.

One of the other custom cutters I've worked with can be curt and difficult to get a detailed answer from, it may seem like you're bothering them by asking questions. Another vendor comes across a pushy hard sell used car salesperson, and charges astronomical prices to boot.

To the OP, I love side stones! Baguettes, shields, something vintage looking, really anything by CvB, I also love going to David Klass, both are superb in terms of customer service. Nothing wrong with spending 4-6x the price of the stone for a lovely setting, I do the same, since I only buy lab stones :)
 

dk168

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@vintageinjune thanks for that, indeed Gary is great to work with, and I have had a few stones from him, including lab CSs.

You should be able to have a 3-stone set at 45deg if the stone is deep and you like your settings high.

DK :))
 

petrock<3

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Following! I have a 10mm asscher emerald from Gary I haven’t set yet. It’s so beautiful and I love the blue of your sapphire! It’s the perfect shade.
I was going to go with a CVB style something like this but can’t make my mind up. (Added some other settings I’ve saved for eye candy) Some great ideas on this thread! 84008E7E-E9D4-4EBA-B4E4-3AD1219B5DD5.jpeg
 

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vintageinjune

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Alright! Caysie should have my stone by Monday, and estimated first CAD should be done around September 16th. Gonna try for shield cut purple sapphires, but if she can't source the right color we might switch to emeralds.

Decided we are going to go with my sketch design and see if it works!
20220814_145746.jpg
Edit: Apparently I already posted this picture earlier, just FYI.
 

vintageinjune

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No euro shank, as it messed with the anesthetics and apparently doesn't prevent spinning the way I thought it would so we decided on metal pads at 5 and 7 o'clock. Ring will be in black gold, but the CAD is done. Now just waiting patiently.
7ShhmfmY.jpeg
 

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FL_runner

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It’s fabulous! I love my Finewater ruby and have been mulling over how to set it- thank you for sharing your process!
 

Kim N

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No euro shank, as it messed with the anesthetics and apparently doesn't prevent spinning the way I thought it would so we decided on metal pads at 5 and 7 o'clock. Ring will be in black gold, but the CAD is done. Now just waiting patiently.
7ShhmfmY.jpeg

I missed this thread originally, but your stone is GORGEOUS and the setting looks exquisite!
 

ItsMainelyYou

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That mix of contemporary and antique makes for the most elegant lines! It's going to be a killer ring :love:
 

JV36912

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What a beautiful stone! Such a neat design- so looking forward to seeing the final product!
 

oncrutchesrightnow

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Oh that looks so cool! It will be great in black gold.
 

Fabtwinsmom

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No euro shank, as it messed with the anesthetics and apparently doesn't prevent spinning the way I thought it would so we decided on metal pads at 5 and 7 o'clock. Ring will be in black gold, but the CAD is done. Now just waiting patiently.
7ShhmfmY.jpeg

@vintageinjune Your sapphire is gorgeous and can’t wait to see the final ring. Don’t mean to thread jack—just curious about the process. Did you have to send the stone to Caysie for her to do the CAD? I love her style and would like her to design something for me one day. I have a pair of cabochon emerald earrings that I’d love to convert into something else but since I live in Canada, I don’t want to send my stones until I finalize the CAD. TIA!
 

vintageinjune

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@vintageinjune Your sapphire is gorgeous and can’t wait to see the final ring. Don’t mean to thread jack—just curious about the process. Did you have to send the stone to Caysie for her to do the CAD? I love her style and would like her to design something for me one day. I have a pair of cabochon emerald earrings that I’d love to convert into something else but since I live in Canada, I don’t want to send my stones until I finalize the CAD. TIA!

Thread jack away! I did not have to send Caysie the stone to get the CAD design, just the dimensions (although she did have the stone on hand before I received the first CAD because it worked for me to ship it to her at that time). Because she is having the purple side stones recut and they came from her inventory, I did have to pay up front for the ring before the CAD process was started. If I had sourced my own, I believe the CAD deposit is smaller.

Do share your story/progress when you start on your redesign for those cabochon emerald earrings!
 

Fabtwinsmom

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Thread jack away! I did not have to send Caysie the stone to get the CAD design, just the dimensions (although she did have the stone on hand before I received the first CAD because it worked for me to ship it to her at that time). Because she is having the purple side stones recut and they came from her inventory, I did have to pay up front for the ring before the CAD process was started. If I had sourced my own, I believe the CAD deposit is smaller.

Do share your story/progress when you start on your redesign for those cabochon emerald earrings!

Thank you for letting me know. Much appreciated! I don’t know what I’ll do with the earrings yet. The emeralds are so green but being cabochon I worry that I may end up cracking them if I turn them into a ring (I talk with my hands). I’ll definitely share my story once I narrow down the design.
 

BoulderGal

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No euro shank, as it messed with the anesthetics and apparently doesn't prevent spinning the way I thought it would so we decided on metal pads at 5 and 7 o'clock. Ring will be in black gold, but the CAD is done. Now just waiting patiently.
7ShhmfmY.jpeg

That's going be seriously amazing!! What are the purple stones? Are they sapphires also? Please post pics when you get it!!
 

vintageinjune

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That's going be seriously amazing!! What are the purple stones? Are they sapphires also? Please post pics when you get it!!

They will be sapphires as well! Caysie is having some she had re-cut to this shape.
 

vintageinjune

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Some sneak peak pictures! Black rhodium plating still needs to be added to the entire setting, and I should have the completed ring before new years, but to tide me/us over:

IMG_9722.jpg
IMG_9725.jpg IMG_9730.jpg IMG_9729.jpg IMG_9728.jpg
 

whitewave

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Wow. :kiss2::kiss2::kiss2:
 

Peary

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Some sneak peak pictures! Black rhodium plating still needs to be added to the entire setting, and I should have the completed ring before new years, but to tide me/us over:

IMG_9722.jpg
IMG_9725.jpg IMG_9730.jpg IMG_9729.jpg IMG_9728.jpg

So beautiful!!
 

ItsMainelyYou

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Some sneak peak pictures! Black rhodium plating still needs to be added to the entire setting, and I should have the completed ring before new years, but to tide me/us over:

IMG_9722.jpg
IMG_9725.jpg IMG_9730.jpg IMG_9729.jpg IMG_9728.jpg

:love: Whoa, that stone looks irradiated! It's glowing! I can't wait to see it on the hand.
 
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