3ct OEC - similar design?

[PierreBear]

Hi PS Friends,

I fell in love with a ring this weekend, just head over heals! I've been slowly planning and thinking through a future upgrade. Swaying between a few ideas but locked in on the classic 6 prong knife edge look with a MRB. The lines are clean and simple, with the focus on the stone since I wanted to go up in size. With the opportunity of making a trip to an out of town jewelry shop with more variety, my goal was to try on different styles to make sure that I still wanted that 6 prong look. I thought that nothing would change my mind, but lesson learned that seeing beautiful pictures on PS is so different from trying things on. Trying on both of the rings at the same time (though different size diamonds), I was more drawn towards the one least expected. I'll stop trying to write this love letter to this beautiful ring and get on with the requests/asks if someone can be kind enough to help me!

1) Can help me deduce why I love this ring and whether there are other similar styles I should consider? I'm not sure if it's because I fell in love with an OEC, seeing it for the first time (M color, around 3 ct in size). Or whether I just like this type of yellow gold. It's 18K but apparently Singlestone oxidizes it a bit. I'm hoping seeing other designs that are similar might help me figure this out to continue on with the search.
2) Do other vendors use this same type of yellow gold (not too yellow but more on the brassier looking side?) I've tried on other yellow gold rings before but it's not as flattering on my skin.
3) I particularly like the extra edging on the side. Not sure what to call this and would love to learn. It's not a traditional halo as the center stone is not rimmed with diamonds. I've tried on other halo rings but it's not my style.

Thank you in advance for pointing me in the right direction!

 

[PSPL]

That's an illusion setting. Single Stone should have more to show you.

 

[PierreBear]

Thank you! Any other vendors that have an illusion setting? I did a pinterest/google image search but couldn't really find anything else. Just wanted to see if there would be other vendors to consider as well.

 

[PSPL]

Are you looking for just the setting? It sounds like you may not have your stone, yet.

If you want a true vintage setting, most of them come with stones. To my knowledge, illusion settings are not popular stock settings, so you will likely have to get it custom made. This Lang Antique reproduction is similar to the Single Stone ARIELLE. I like the SS mounting much more though.

For inspiration, here are some sites:
Lang Antique and Estate Jewelry
Victor Barboné
EraGem
Ruby Lane
Erstwhile
1stDibs
Love Affair Diamonds
Jewels by Grace
Old World Diamonds might have vintage illusion settings, and they have a large stock of antique stones (some not listed).

Regarding gold colors... you will need to ask each vendor about the color nuances of the gold they use (regardless if it's yellow, pink, white, or green) because different alloys produce different results. Hopefully whomever you talk to can easily distinguish color undertones and you trust their eyes. If not, definitely have them send you a ring/sample of the same alloy batch they will use in your ring before they start. Also, some vendors may be willing to order an alloy to match the gold color you want if you have a sample or know the alloy. I don't know if Single Stone will tell you what is in their gold alloy, but if they do, you can then request that alloy.

Please let me know if you do inquire about gold color nuances from vendors. I favor certain shades as well, and would find it helpful. Thanks!

 

[PierreBear]

PSPL - You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much for sharing all those links! You are correct that I don't have the stone. Prior to trying on the SS piece, I was planning on getting an ACA typical modern round brilliant. If I went down the route of getting the same setting at SS, would you recommend just having SS source the stone or look through Old World Diamond? It would be about $4K for the setting if SS sourced it but about $5K if you brought in your own stone. I'm not that knowledgeable about setting price but that seems a bit more than what I thought it be.

I did inquire about alloy... not very directly... but I don't think the sales person knew or was allow to share. 75% gold and 25% other alloy. Wish I knew myself and could then have more options and consider the custom route. Perhaps others might chime in. Thanks again!

 

[PSPL]

That's very kind of you to say, PierreBear- I only wish I were as knowledgeable as many PSers here! Resonance.Of.Life (ROL) likely could be a greater help because she's purchased from both Single Stone and Old World Diamonds, and she's seen tons of antique stones.

From my impression here, Single Stone is expensive, but they have beautiful jewelry. I do not know how competitive their pricing is compared to the favored antique stone vendors here. While I cannot recall someone who sourced their diamond/gemstone from SS, there are PSers who have purchased settings/bands, commissioned custom settings, and have had fine-tuning work done on their antique stones. Maybe start a new thread to ask around.

Adam at Old World Diamonds (NYC) has a good reputation here, and I wouldn't hesitate to contact him. Some other PS-favored antique stone vendors are Ilya at Ivy & Rose/My Diamond Zone (Chicago), Grace at Jewels by Grace (LA), and Erica at Love Affair Diamonds (Seattle). Have you already considered newly-cut antique stones (OECs and antique cushions) from Victor Canera and Good Old Gold?

While choosing a vendor, ask yourself whether you need to be able to see all candidates with your own eyes. Is an upgrade policy important? Do I want the setting made by the same jeweler? Do I want it cast or hand-forged? What kind of look am I going for?

Since it sounds like you haven't fully explored your options and there's no hard deadline, I suggest taking your time and seeing as many stones as you can, and trying on tons of settings.

Btw, I stumbled upon another setting that you could use for inspiration: Fay Cullen

 

[PSPL]

Another one.
Maybe you will like CalmerPalmer's old ring as well.

 

[PierreBear]

PSPL - Thanks for all the attention and time you put into this! You are so thoughtful. Seeing those other examples are very helpful! Right now my two contenders would be the Singlestone piece (but still not sure whether to source the stone myself or not) or perhaps CVB's Elsa solitaire. CVB doesn't have a store front for does allow to try on a sample via shipping/making a deposit. Do you have any guidance between the two settings?

As you mentioned, I still need to try on more settings but these vintage settings still seem hard to come by as I don't live where the big players are such as in LA or NY. Just thinking through your questions, I'm feeling a bit challenged given that I am inexperienced with antique stones and settings that it seems "easier/foolproof" to try on a finished product to really ensure that's the right one. But I'll start a new thread to gain some guidance.

Upgrade policy - I would like to say this isn't important. Shooting for the 2.5 to 3 ct range is the max I would feel comfortable going. However, it's always nice to have options and wish my original ering was with a vendor that allowed for upgrading.
Setting made by the same jeweler - It seems convenient but not crucial. I'm not sure where the cost savings are... sourcing yourself or not. No main preference yet until I get some guidance.
Cast or handforged - I don't think I have a preference as long as the end product is what I like. Perhaps I just need more education here as well!
Look going for - This question scares me the most. I thought I wanted the classic 6 prong MRB solitaire look but it has changed. But in general what has been consistent is no halo and a delicate looking ring that doesn't over power. Thin/gradual shank. But now I know that I prefer gold with alloy that gives a brassier type look.

Will keep working on this project and thanks again!

 

[Resonance.Of.Life]

Hi PierreBear!

I've bought from Jewels by Grace (3.48 carat antique cushion, 2.56 carat OEC, and my 3.02 antique cushion) and Old World Diamonds (2.73 carat antique cushion and 4.00 carat antique cushion) for my antique stones and I've been happy with my purchases through them.

Single Stone has loose diamonds to choose from as well as already set stones in these settings. I've never had an issue with Single Stone and they are more than happy to set outside stones for you. But I suggest, to look at a number of antique diamonds as they all have individual "flavors" or "personalities" and what may speak to one person may not speak to another. Heck, even between looking at pictures of the diamonds online and having them on my hand I've changed my mind a couple of times for purchases. From my dealings with Single Stone for my custom setting and bands, they have several "shades" of gold I suppose I would call it. Even for rose gold, I was shown many different hues of rose gold that are all 18k and I was told they can custom mix to any shade I liked, I just needed to show them what I wanted.

I've also had cad/cast and hand-forged settings and I prefer hand-forged over cad/cast. If the cost difference is nominal, I'd highly suggest going the hand-forged route. I've seen cad/cast rings in 18k gold that cost 1-2k more than my hand-forged platinum Single Stone ring with custom cut oecs and french cuts, so just because it is cad/cast doesn't necessarily mean it will be cheaper. Let me know if you have any other concerns or questions !

 

[PierreBear]

Hello Resonance.Of.Life! I'm so honored you would chime in too since you are the expert on picking beautiful antique stones. I think I did drink the kool-aid on OECs and will go down that route instead of an ACA! Thinking back, I was just enamored with the beautiful pastel colors that just made the ring so interesting to look at. I was going through your wonderful threads and was hoping if you could help me understand whether an OEC performs better/worse in different settings as you had some in a simple setting and others in a more elaborate one. I wasn't sure if the illusion type setting ring I tried on was also generated brilliance from the outer "halo/rim" and whether the same stone would be just as beautiful in the 6 prong solitaire setting.

I'm still teetering and tottering between two looks. The first one is that classic look in the CVB Jovyn setting. I love the focus of a large stone in comparison to the thin and delicate shank. I would love to pair it with the french cut wedding band. However, the second look I wonder if that vintage setting just will look better with a vintage cut stone? I appreciate any guidance you can share!

I know I have tons more questions but hope to try on some of CVB's settings and also found a local store that carries OECs and will see them in person sometime in the near future. Will report back and greatly appreciate help from anyone!

 

[Resonance.Of.Life]

PierreBear,

I'm so happy you decided to go with an OEC instead of an ACA! The pastel colors antique diamonds throw are so special and I love that no two antique stones are alike, so if you find that a stone "sings to you," do not pass it up! It will be very difficult, sometimes impossible to find a stone that tugs at your heart strings like that again. So, really, how an OEC performs is really individual... some do well bezeled, while others (like my 4 carat cushion) did not do as well in a bezel (mostly because my 4 carat had a brown body hue and it became very apparent in a bezel setting). Any well performing stone should be ok in most settings, it just depends on your preference.

Illusion settings are great in that it tricks your eye into perceiving the stone set is bigger, it won't change how the center stone performs. Do you want to stack? Have a lot of ability to change the overall look of your set? I'd go with a solitaire. After having had two solitaires and many halos, I can definitely say without a doubt, I am NOT a solitaire girl. While it was nice that I could change my bands and look of my stack easily with a solitaire-- it just didn't give me that same warm fuzzy feeling I get with a halo. I love elaborate settings, especially in the gallery.

What area are you in? And not all OECs perform alike. Some are piss poor performers and may dissuade a client from going the antique route. What faceting pattern are you looking for?

 

[PierreBear]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the setting! For some reason, even though the majority of budget is going to the stone, I feel more uncomfortable with picking a setting. How to figure out that setting that still complements the stone but doesn't steal the show and is different enough from my current ring (though perhaps going with gold instead of platinum is enough change)?! How to also pick a setting that I will love for a long time and not want to upgrade/make changes... haha that's the desire we all seem to want.

I don't think I plan on stacking as I currently wear my e ring on one hand and a 5 stone band on the other. On lazy/sporty days I just wear my wedding band. The solitaire route is a classic look that I don't think I would get tired of. Throwing in the french band would make it feel a bit more unique and tie in the vintage look. However, I'm not sure if I should be going with the safe route and would feel that it is too similar to my current ring. My current set is a pretty conservative and a common look so I am leaning towards the illusion setting at the moment! Though the hard part is that I'm not sure I'm a "halo" type of girl. The VC Emilya is beautiful in pictures to me but I tried on a 3ct halo with great workmanship similar to the Emilya and was surprised to find that I didn't like the look on my hand and preferred something more understated. But the illusion setting is a halo in some ways and I don't think I liked it because of the extra size but just because I enjoyed the contrast of seeing the gold against the warm diamond and the pastel colors. So hopefully it's true that I like illusion settings and will be deciding between Singlestone or perhaps asking CVB if she would entertain that design. Any pointers between those two?

I'm located in Texas. I'm unsure about facet patterns but all the ones you've picked out are gorgeous to me! You have quite the talent! I assume it's a flowery pattern that I'm attracted to like most people? My next step (once we complete a house project), is to try on some CVB settings and hopefully nail down the setting and then start the search. Thanks in advance for the guidance!

 

[Resonance.Of.Life]

I just went back to look at your previous posts- So sorry that I didn't respond in your cushion thread! It took me 9 months to find that faceting pattern as most antique cushions do not have that look. There were 2 cushions that I saw pictures of online (one that I absolutely regret that I didn't buy, but I had just purchased my 4 carat at the time) and sought a look just like that. I suggest that you find pictures and videos of OECs that you like and show that to the vendors you are working with that this is the look you want in an OEC. Unfortunately, unless the store specializes in antiques or has access to a large variety of antiques (GOG comes to mind), the quality of the OECs may not be up to par faceting wise. Another issue is that because they do not regularly deal with OECs they may just think any ol' OEC looks the same and may try to push that on you, just something to keep in mind. Do not feel pressured to buy immediately UNLESS it absolutely sings to you. My current cushion is the ONLY diamond that made me actually gasp once I opened the diamond paper ! The reaction it elicited told me that it was the one (akin to when I found my wedding dress).

I think maybe the easiest thing to do is to buy a fake solitaire ring (gold colored) and wear it for a while and see how it makes you feel..and you still feel like you are yearning after that SS illusion ring, then you'll know. You don't have to set the diamond right away either! Heck, it's been almost a year since I bought my cushion and it's still not set.. soon though. I have been undecided on the melee (oec vs full cuts) and custom cut oecs will extend the time frame out for completion and also add $$ to the overall cost.

As far as Single Stone VS CVB. I can only speak with my experience with SS. I did a custom design that was very elaborate and they made sure that I was updated and felt comfortable with the entire process. Ari, Heather, Molly, and Patti all have a great eye for design and will tell you what will and won't work. They will NOT make an ugly ring, they are honest and never pushed me for one design or another and never pushed me for a more expensive setting. Their items are hand-forged and for me, that was important as I am a very detail oriented person, visually. My SS ring was impeccably made and I could loupe it and not find any blemishes or unpolished portions or any joints that looked off. Heck, I dropped it on travertine tile and freaked out, but not a darn scratch was on it.

I do have a reputation here of being very picky and frankly, I don't disagree with that. I know what I want and I want to work with vendors of a certain caliber as they can meet or exceed my expectations. Nothing is more frustrating than having to pay more $$ after being disappointed with workmanship on another ring. For example, some people want a VC Emilya and end up going with the cheaper vendor but are severely disappointed in the quality and end up with a VC in the end anyways, but obviously they had to pay more than anticipated in the long run. If the cost difference of an equivalent ring design (illusion halos just between two vendors) is 500-1000 more, I would not hesitate to spend the $1000 more for a Single Stone ring. It is of an heirloom quality that meets my standards.

 

[missy]

Late to this thread but just had to chime in and say HUGE +1 to everything Resonance Of Life wrote. She gave you excellent and perfect advice!!!
And good luck Pierrebear. I hope you end up with the OEC ring of your dreams.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Good advice already given, but I can add a little more! It's funny, but I am going to a Singlestone trunk show tomorrow! I have seen their rings before and I think they just use 18k yellow gold which does look different than 14k (which maybe you have seen more often). I didn't see anything unusual about their yellow gold.

I have had CVB make me a band and two custom rings, and her design and bench work is definitely equal to that of SS, and I have seen both and am super picky! The price, though, will be around 50-75% of SS prices. I also adore the Elsa, but Caysie makes custom rings of new designs, so you can make one with all the elements you love. Spend time looking at antique settings, because those can be copied or adapted. My last ring by CVB was based on an antique Tiffany setting, but it actually turned out better than the original! Caysie has found some great OECs at good prices, so you might want to check and see if she knows of any.

As you may know, I started out here with a H&A round and Tiffany repro setting and several years later switched over to an AVR from Good Old Gold which is a newly cut OEC. I absolutely love the facet pattern of OECs, and while I still love my H&A studs, I have been converted to antique stones for my rings, and my newest ring is an antique asscher!

I'll see if this ring is at the trunk show this weekend. I love looking at their pieces, but their prices have gone up so much in the last few years that I mostly just admire their work because the styles are lovely. Thankfully, I have found someone who can make fine antique style rings with much better pricing, for now, at least!

 

[PierreBear]

Resonance of Life - I can't wait to see how you set your next ring and good luck deciding on the melee! I definitely appreciate it when a vendor feels comfortable enough to tell you what won't work. It's hard for me to figure out at times whether it's more than just a design preference. I would love to hear honest opinions on whether the french cut shank would look good with the illusion setting if you have any thoughts. Thank you so much again on your guidance and wisdom!

Missy - I appreciate your encouragement! I am excited to be able to start this journey once we get through with a home project. Lucky to have input from those on this forum.

Diamondseeker2006 - Yes, ma'am! I've followed your story and it gives me confidence that one can convert from the MRB world and not have any regrets. Thanks for sharing your input on Caysie. I don't mind paying a bit more for a "singlestone setting" but I'm not sure I need to have exactly that setting and might want to customize it a bit so that might mean CVB would be the route to consider. I plan on trying on some of her settings and hopefully that will define which vendor to go with and then it will be on to the OEC search! I would greatly appreciate what your thoughts on if you see the Arielle setting in person! Wish I could go there with you but have fun!


OEC search/setting - I want to make sure I have the right expectations but does it seem doable with a 30K budget or should I change some parameters?
OEC stone - 2.5 to 3 CT, K to M color range supposed the sweet spot for the pastel colors, eye clean inclusion, think I should be able to find something around 25K
Setting - budget up to 5K

Thanks PS friends!

 

[Resonance.Of.Life]

Resonance of Life - I can't wait to see how you set your next ring and good luck deciding on the melee! I definitely appreciate it when a vendor feels comfortable enough to tell you what won't work. It's hard for me to figure out at times whether it's more than just a design preference. I would love to hear honest opinions on whether the french cut shank would look good with the illusion setting if you have any thoughts. Thank you so much again on your guidance and wisdom!

OEC search/setting - I want to make sure I have the right expectations but does it seem doable with a 30K budget or should I change some parameters?
OEC stone - 2.5 to 3 CT, K to M color range supposed the sweet spot for the pastel colors, eye clean inclusion, think I should be able to find something around 25K
Setting - budget up to 5K

Thanks PS friends!

Regarding the french cut shank, can you be a little more descriptive? Just french cuts in the band, tapered french cuts, graduated french cuts, ect?

30k is ample for a 2.5-3 carat GIA K-M OEC . Have you seen diamonds in this color range at all? I'd suggest looking at them as you may be surprised what your tolerance or intolerance levels are for this particular color range in antique diamonds. I started off with an 1.07 carat AGS J AVC, went to a 3.48 carat O/P cushion, to a 4.00 GIA K cushion, to a 2.56 GIA J OEC, and now finally to a 3.02 GIA I cushion. I've learned that GIA H is my sweet spot, BUT I had to compromise on something and faceting is not something I wanted to compromise on.

I've seen vendors that make whatever the client wants (despite it being a design disaster) and it ends up looking like a "franken-ring." A lot of design elements that are great separately but do not look good together and it ends up ... well, looking like they put everything in the ring except the kitchen sink. I can say for certain Ari at Single Stone would not make a hideous ring. In fact, when a PSer who 100% thought she loved a certain ring design, had the ring made and ended up not falling in love with it, they took the setting back and made her the ring she thought she wanted. They really did try to please her. In the end, she realized she wanted a VC halo. Moral of the story is: know what you want. If you don't know, don't set it into anything permanent. Just wear it in a temporary cheap stuller solitaire. I am glad I put my OEC in a solitaire and waited to see if I would really be happy with an OEC.

For my case, I went with a new design Single Stone had not done before and wanted me to be 100% happy and even told me they would make me another ring if I was not 100% happy with the custom design. Ari said, "I will not make an ugly ring, if you are unhappy with it, I will simply unmount the diamond and set a colored stone into it. We would make you another ring that you are happy with." This made me feel 100% comfortable going forward with a setting that was well over what I had spent on settings in the past. They executed the design perfectly and it was a gorgeous ring, but I had not considered that I have tiny fingers and had a pretty big diamond in a statement halo ring. Another thing for you to consider, lifestyle, ring size, and wearability.

As far as the gold goes, I reiterate they have several "shades" of gold. I know having spent a great deal of time at Single Stone over the years, that I was at first confused as to why some of their settings/bands had a different hue and I asked Heather. She told me that they are able to have different hues mixed, I would just need to point out to them what color I was going for in any one of their settings and their goldsmith would be able to have that specific mix for my ring. At the time I was focused on rose gold, as I loved the Cartier 18k (what they call pink gold) shade but wanted a band design that Cartier did not carry.

 

[LLJsmom]

I would really encourage you not to even worry about the setting now, even though it seems the more reachable aspect of your upgrade. Like ROL said, find the right stone first. The hunt for THE OEC can be challenging because eCh is different and preference is so personal. Missy and I both saw two stones that were the top performers of the bunch that Adam at OWD had in my budget, and we preferred different ones, based on differences in facet pattern. Once you have your OEC, you should wear it in a simple setting and see how you "feel". I promise you. Going from a MRB to an OEC will be different. And your concerns and issues for each stone will be different, which will play a large role in the setting you choose.

It would be worth it to take a trip to NYC to see Adam or to where Grace is located so you can see more and really figure out what speaks to you. Good luck and have fun.

 

[PierreBear]

Thanks Resonance.Of.Life and LLJsmom! I'll switch gears and focus on the stone first. I did find a local store in town that carried some OECs so hopefully they will have enough variety for me to find my color tolerance. I think as I'm setting it in gold (thanks for explaining the different shades ROL), I'm already confident that I can go down to M as that's the one I've seen in person and it looked warm but not yellow. I appreciate the stories shared about Ari wanting to make sure a custom design ring isn't ugly. I am not a designer by any means and don't want that "franken-ring" and was just thinking about french cuts in the band. I believe I'm more drawn to symmetry so that would eliminate the tapered and graduated french cuts. Wish I had photoshop skills but it's good to know that designers like Ari will just set you straight. Thanks again friends and I'll keep you posted once I start narrowing down the stones!