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3 stone sapphire search & side proportions

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tinkyy

Rough_Rock
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We''ve been fact finding for an e-ring (!) and have narrowed down our search to building our own three stone, platinum setting with a center 4 to 5 carat round brilliant cut blue sapphire with proportional round side stones that can be either diamonds or white sapphires. We''re looking for loose stones and then looking for a bench jeweler to either set or custom make a setting, all locally in NYC. The setting we chose is low and curved on the finger. Price range 10-15K, could be less by about 1/2 if we are careful and make the right choices. Price is also all over the place to the extreme ... h e l p ...

I really need help here, we almost made a very costly mistake in the NYC diamond district and I am smarting from the close call and am still doing research trying to learn more so I can spot a scam next time...

1. One retail jeweler told us (sapphire) rounds are easy to find in our size. Several said impossible, very rare! What''s the story, and where do I go in NYC for a selection of loose colored gems? Anyone have a wholesale connection?

2. Heat treated is fine with me, non heat treated are also around, but for $2500 per Carat more. Is this worth it, I can''t really see the difference when they''re set.

2.5 The premier non-heat treated sapphire dealer (where we went by personal introduction and appointment) in the diamond district gave us the choice of ONE stone in our price range, not even in our shape. My attitide, while it was a lovely stone my $$ is good everywhere and look until we find what WE want, not what''s in inventory. Quite an experience.

3. Color is all over the place. My eyes are tired from reading gem guidebooks!

4. We were told by a few jewelers that white sapphire would balance nicely on the sides and is a low cost alternative, told by others that white sapphire isn''t brilliant enough in a round cut, and don''t bother using them they will deaden the center stone. My question here, white sapphire is about $100 in 8mm size, diamond G or H SI1 about 2000$ each for .90 c. Since there is a several thousand dollar price difference, and a size difference between sapphire and diamonds, can we use brilliant cut round white sapphires for the side stones?

5. Tiffany was no help at all. Not impressed with their selection. They wouldn''t even show us matching wedding bands until we bought the ring!!

6. Is there a good way to figure out the difference in carat weight between diamond and sapphire? Like how big in diamond-speak is that 4.5 c sapphire so we can figure out the side stone proportions.

7. How low of a quality diamond can we go on the side stones?

8. What is the proportion of center to side stones? Tiffany does 2/3rds of the center on round all diamond, but that seems a bit large and unwieldy with a center blue sapphire of our desired size. We''ve seen 4 carat sapphire center with 1.17 total weight diamond sides that''s nice. Is this reasonable proportions?

9. A diamond band is our choice, diamonds on the front of the ring, (about 5 or 7 or 9 total) what size should these diamonds be to be in proportion to the three-stone ring and side stones?

10. How many $$ per carat for a heat treated blue sapphire good/great quailty? We''ve heard $800 to $1100/carat to $3200/carat...

11. Any one know a reputable bench jeweler in NYC or a place to buy a ready made setting without the exorbitant mark up?

12. Where do we have the stones appraised after purchase, and do we wait till the piece is set or do them loose first?

13. We know exactly what we want & have invested many hours into the research, but are really scared because we know we look like hicks with money to these guys...

THANK YOU so much for your thoughts!
 

Mayacamas

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 3, 2004
Messages
84

Hi


I posted my ring about 10 days ago- (See Sapphire bling) it is a 4.84 carat blue sapphire with 0.75 ct pears as sides. I think the proportions work out well and I have to admit I spent about 15 minutes choosing diamonds and about 9 month finding a sapphire.

If I can be of any service will you please private message me and I will respond

good luck

Halee
 

bar01

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 13, 2004
Messages
622
Date: 11/2/2004 6:28
6.gif
7 PM
Author:tinkyy

We've been fact finding for an e-ring (!) and have narrowed down our search to building our own three stone, platinum setting with a center 4 to 5 carat round brilliant cut blue sapphire with proportional round side stones that can be either diamonds or white sapphires. We're looking for loose stones and then looking for a bench jeweler to either set or custom make a setting, all locally in NYC. The setting we chose is low and curved on the finger. Price range 10-15K, could be less by about 1/2 if we are careful and make the right choices. Price is also all over the place to the extreme ... h e l p .

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First - take a deep breath ! You have excellent taste in choosing to use a fine colored stone as the center piece. You are trying to put together something very special. As mentioned you can learn all you need about diamonds (to make a pruchase) in about a week on this board and from the experts here - take the tutorial on the main board. But learning about fine Sapphires - there is a challenge!!! Took me months, several books, and time on PS and other sites to learn "enough" to make an informed decision and purchase. Even then - I was not 100% sure I made the right choice.
-------

I really need help here, we almost made a very costly mistake in the NYC diamond district and I am smarting from the close call and am still doing research trying to learn more so I can spot a scam next time...

1. One retail jeweler told us (sapphire) rounds are easy to find in our size. Several said impossible, very rare! What's the story, and where do I go in NYC for a selection of loose colored gems? Anyone have a wholesale connection?

-------
Fine Sapphires are rare, Round ones even rarer, and ones in the sizes you are looking for even more rare. Wholesale? Well there are some people who claim to buy direct from overseas mines. Two very well known places are in NY - Cherrypicked.com and Walterarnstein.com. These are mostly untreated sapphires - but they know their stuff. There is some nice round sapphires on simplysapphires.com, but always thought their prices were too low to be true, but many do come with AGTA certs - so they are for real - just not sure how "fine". Check out this puppy for example.

4 ct round Sapphire

Who ever you get it your Sapphire from - make sure they have an "evaluation period" so you can look at it and have it independently evaluated and appriased before you decide to purchase. That evaluation period (along with checking out the reputation of my vendor) is what allowed me to feel comfortable in buying over the internet.

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2. Heat treated is fine with me, non heat treated are also around, but for $2500 per Carat more. Is this worth it, I can't really see the difference when they're set.

------
A trained gemologist can tell (but not for certain) if a stone has been heat treated. Usually this takes a major lab like AGTA to determine (most of the time) if it has been treated. Most Sapphires (95% or more) are treated as it improves the quality of the sapphire. Sapphires that come out of the ground looking so good that they don't need treatment are very rare - and therefore cost more. It is really just a personal preference wether you want to pay for that rarity factor - no "normal Dick and Jane" is going to be able to tell treated from non treated.
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2.5 The premier non-heat treated sapphire dealer (where we went by personal introduction and appointment) in the diamond district gave us the choice of ONE stone in our price range, not even in our shape. My attitide, while it was a lovely stone my $$ is good everywhere and look until we find what WE want, not what's in inventory. Quite an experience.

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Well - you should know that what you are looking for is very difficult to find. You won't find someone with a tray of fine round 4-5ct sapphires to look at. You may need to think outside your parameters, (size or shape) but you can ask them to search for you.
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3. Color is all over the place. My eyes are tired from reading gem guidebooks!

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Color is the thing (well tone, hue and saturation)! Gem guidebooks are nice - I have a few - but it is very difficult to capture the true color and essence of fine colored gems from a picture. You may prefer different hues and tones from what a Guide books say - go with what looks good to you - but at a price that is appraised and verified.
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4. We were told by a few jewelers that white sapphire would balance nicely on the sides and is a low cost alternative, told by others that white sapphire isn't brilliant enough in a round cut, and don't bother using them they will deaden the center stone. My question here, white sapphire is about $100 in 8mm size, diamond G or H SI1 about 2000$ each for .90 c. Since there is a several thousand dollar price difference, and a size difference between sapphire and diamonds, can we use brilliant cut round white sapphires for the side stones?

---------
White Sapphires would be a great choice -I think. They won't shine as well as a ideal cut diamond I think - but they would match since they are the same element. I used ideal cut H&A diamonds for my sides - but mine were much smaller. You could make the counter argument that super ideal cut diamonds would out shine a sapphire center stone. You are going to pay much more for diamonds - so i think you may have a good idea considering white sapphires if you can find a nice matched pair.
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5. Tiffany was no help at all. Not impressed with their selection. They wouldn't even show us matching wedding bands until we bought the ring!!

--------
Well, my custom made ring (three stone Sapphire center, diamond sides) is based on a Tiffany E-ring we saw. Tiffany sales people were nice (okay - maybe a bit snobby) when I went in to talk with them - but the prices just about gave me a heart attack. My ring will look as good or better than a Tiffany and cost 40-50% less.
--------

6. Is there a good way to figure out the difference in carat weight between diamond and sapphire? Like how big in diamond-speak is that 4.5 c sapphire so we can figure out the side stone proportions.

-----------
Well there is a rough rule of thumb - divide your Sapphire by 1.4 and you get a rough idea. So for a 4.5 ct round sapphire you would be about equal to a 3.2 ct diamond (WOW!). However - depths of good round Sapphires can vary from 65-80%. So with a deeper cut Sapphire you lose face up diameter -paying for more ct weight but seeing it less when set in a ring. There is some argument about wether deeper cut Sapphires have better color - me I tried to shoot for 65-70% so as to maximize the face up size. Best way to do a conversion is to find the face up diameter of the Sapphire you are looking at and then find ideal cut diamonds with that diameter to do an accurate conversion.
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7. How low of a quality diamond can we go on the side stones?

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Thats a tough call. For me I wanted really fine gems all the way - fine center sapphire AND side fine diamonds. Thanks to the folks over on the diamond (rocky talk) boards - I chose a Super ideal cut, AGS0, H&A, G, SI-1 for the side diamonds. The cut is THE thing with diamonds. They look nice next to my sapphire. ("maybe a little too nice" - as mentioned above - LOL! )
-------------

8. What is the proportion of center to side stones? Tiffany does 2/3rds of the center on round all diamond, but that seems a bit large and unwieldy with a center blue sapphire of our desired size. We've seen 4 carat sapphire center with 1.17 total weight diamond sides that's nice. Is this reasonable proportions?

------------
Oooo - good question. One that I spent MUCH time thinking about. You have to decide what proportions look good to you - it is SO personal. Some people don't want to overwelm the Sapphire with diamonds. Me- I went with side diamonds which had a face up diameter of about 77% each of the main sapphire. A little large - I admit - but I wanted (caved in?) to have a little more of a "diamond factor" in an E-ring.

Check out some photos of these three stone diamond rings in this old post - and ask your self - what would I like if the center stone was a Sapphire? Maybe even these photos have sides that are to large for you.

Three Stone Post

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9. A diamond band is our choice, diamonds on the front of the ring, (about 5 or 7 or 9 total) what size should these diamonds be to be in proportion to the three-stone ring and side stones?

I think that is what ever looks good to you. There is no rule. But a 4-5 ct Sapphire is going to be a "honker" - LOL! Have you considered an diamond/sapphire enternity ring ?

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10. How many $$ per carat for a heat treated blue sapphire good/great quailty? We've heard $800 to $1100/carat to $3200/carat...

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Prices are all over the map. But for a start - click on this link

Ruby Sapphire Prices
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11. Any one know a reputable bench jeweler in NYC or a place to buy a ready made setting without the exorbitant mark up?

Good Old Gold is in New York - as is NiceIce - I think. Why not use them for the setting and the side diamonds - they may also be willing to assist you in your search for your sapphire - but you can look independently as well - from the sources I mentioned.


12. Where do we have the stones appraised after purchase, and do we wait till the piece is set or do them loose first?

I would recommend that since the Sapphire is the main thing - that you have it INDEPENDENTLY appriased and graded BEFORE you agree to buy it and have it set. Check the main board here for listed PS appriasers in NY. Most people who will sell you a Sapphire will give you some time (7-14 days) to evaluate it before you pruchase. You can have the side diamonds appriased too - but my thought is that if they have an AGS cert - you are "mostly" okay and you can have it appriased as part of the whole setting after it is done.


13. We know exactly what we want & have invested many hours into the research, but are really scared because we know we look like hicks with money to these guys...

------
You have come to the right place - use the search function on this board for "Sapphire" and you can learn alot.

Feel free to Private Message me too.

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THANK YOU so much for your thoughts!
 

strmrdr

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 1, 2003
Messages
23,295
"4 to 5 carat round brilliant cut blue sapphire "

That will be a rare beast and hard to find.
4 to 5ct stones arent to common to start with.
Then most sapphire rough is more suited to be cut into ovals than rounds.
Then factor in that the RB cut inst always a suitable cut for sapphire to get top color out of it.
It adds up to some hard looking being required.
 

strmrdr

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
23,295

strmrdr

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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windowshopper

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
2,023
To Tinkyy:

May I ask where you went for sapphires? Did you try Walter Arnstein? Just curious I have been to see the stones at Walter Arnstein and was very impressed but don;t know who else is considered really top notch for sapphires
WS
 

Richard Sherwood

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 25, 2002
Messages
4,924
Loved your informative post, Bar. You have become a sapphire afficianado.

I just wanted to make one small correction on your statement:

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A trained gemologist can tell (but not for certain) if a stone has been heat treated. Usually this takes a major lab like
AGTA to determine (most of the time) if it has been treated.
--------------

In the vast majority of cases, a gemologist who is well trained in detecting treatments can tell for certain if a stone has been heat treated or not.

The key to detecting heat treatment is examination of the inclusions. Heat treatment alters their look, and a positive ID can usually be made by gemologists trained in this area.
 

valeria101

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
15,808
What more to say?
1.gif



It is such a pity that you were given conflicting advice while shopping. Perhaps it would do some good to erase all that and look up just a couple of independent sources - if not from the trade (this is nearly impossible), at least not interested in the sale.

Books sounds good - just not a shopping guide. Perhaps Ruby&Sapphire was already mentioned. Sapphire or no sapphire, this one makes a nice read too. Even the website cares to put things into perspective - other than the jewelr''s counter (LINK).


Actually, your post may be the first time I heard that large round sapphires are common. If one jeweler happens to have one, yes, sure, otherwise no way - especially anything larger than a pinpoint.


Blue Sapphire & White sapphire sounds delightful. More so than round diamond sides.

You may hear yet another story, that less brilliant diamond cuts (say, trillions or baguettes as opposed to rounds) match better with color stones since they do not outshine them. I guess this could be called "redundant refinement", but to me it makes sense. You may want to give a thought t this before going for diamond sides - especially if larger rounds are considered.

White sapphire is quite brilliant on it''s own, but lacks fire compared to diamond. It makes a precious diamond substitute (not the case here, just in general), but the look is way different. It is not too hard to find finely cut white sapphire to see for yourself. For better or worse, these are meant as diamond stand-inns.


Surely hope we''ll see your wonderful project taking shape on and off Pricescope !
5.gif
 

day_lily_me

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 3, 2004
Messages
94
Tinkyy I''ve sent you a PM since what I have to say is probably more than the rest of the group wants to hear. And I think they have given you plenty of starting places.
 

windowshopper

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
2,023

CHECK OUT WWW.ESTATEDIAMONDJEWELRY.COM



3 Stone Sapphire & Diamond Ring

Elegant sapphire and diamond three stone ring set in platinum. The beautiful fine Ceylon sapphire weights approximately 2.71 carats and total weight of the two old-mine cut diamonds is approximately 1.12 carats, G-H color and VS clarity. Six small diamonds on the shank enhance the beauty of the mounting.


Price: $10,500.00
Sale: $8,500.00
Item: 4471



 

tinkyy

Rough_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Messages
11
Wow. Thanks. Good sleuthing on the ''net! Is this price reasonable I wonder? Mine cut diamonds are how old, from the 1920''s or ''30''s or earlier? That would make the ceylon center sapphire unheat treated, if it''s the same age, true?

Are you going to see this one? we''re leaving early for the holiday, so will have to take our chances...
 
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