1.23 E SI1 or 1.33 G SI1?
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lmurden
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researcher
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researcher
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You'll see a slight size difference (my understanding is the human eye can tell the difference at .10 cts), but only if you're actually compairing two stones side by side. Looking at them on someone's finger, no one would really notice a difference. They would, however, notice the color difference. Would they between an E and F? Maybe not. But between an E and I? Probably (although people think my stone is a D-F all the time!). In all honesty, you really would be better off going for the better colored stone. I mean, you'll most likely just say the stone is 1 1/4 either way!
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lmurden
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lmurden
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Probably not once mounted. What did the vendor say? Although I think the G would be an excellent choice, but if you want to go for super high color then go for it.
Rosy you have got to make up your mind. Remember that when you get the ring and when you first open up the box and see the ring for the first time if it doesn't knock you out with its beauty then send it back!
Rosy you have got to make up your mind. Remember that when you get the ring and when you first open up the box and see the ring for the first time if it doesn't knock you out with its beauty then send it back!
lmurden
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----------------
On 10/23/2004 9:36:21 PM lmurden wrote:
Sorry Rosy! I'm not trying to add to your stress.
Go for the E.----------------
The vendor did compare the G to an F she had in stock & said that there was virtually no visible difference in color between the two & that the G faced up very white. This may be the vendor just trying to sell the product. The E is the safest choice because there is no question it will be icy white. But I like the size of the G. Maybe I can find a setting that will maximize the size of the diamond? Anyone have any ideas?
lmurden
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I would suggest that you forget size, examine color, but concentrate on potential cut and clarity differences.
SIZE, a .16 mm difference is not significantly distinquishable in the size stone you are looking at.
Grading is inconsistent in carat, cut, clarity and color. In this example IMHO, cut and clarity are where to pay attention to make sure they are equal, then color.
COLOR: I have seen GIA I colors that couldn't be distinguished from F. Then I have seen GIA I color that was clearly tinted compared to a G. Being that your stones are in the E to G range, I doubt if there will be a noticeable difference. If you do not see the actual stones you will not know if you can tell the difference. Going into a store and looking at other E and G stones may be unreliable.
CUT: If the stones both are excellent cuts and both score high on the HCA and have no significant differentiating factors, then they are equal enough. But, if you do see some significant differences, then that is to be taken under consideration.
CLARITY: This may be a differentiating factor because you are at a level that can have a lot of variance. I have purchased an SI1 AGS stones which were so completely clean, under the loup it was hard to find a speck, subsequently graded VS2. I have seen SI1's which INHO were I1's because they had a black dot just under the table. In fact a vendor on this site advertised an SI1 that I was told has a black "barely visible" inclusion. Therefore, make sure that you don't have one lovely SI1 leaning toward VS, and another SI1 with a black feather leaning toward SI2/i1.
So I would first ascertain cut is equal.
EDIT: oops, i see cut is already stated as equal.
If cut is equal, I would then look to make sure both SI1's are nice clean ones, since there are great ones and not so great ones. If there was an inclusion visible to the eye of a hawk from any direction on one stone and not the other, the decision would be made. If not, move to color.
After cut and clarity are determined equal, if the colors are distiquishable, choose the E if whiter is better for you. Personally, If I could see the difference, all else equal i'd go for E.
If after all that, the cut, clarity, and color are indistinquishble, you may want to consider the bigger stone. Me? I'd likely get the E anyway, BUT that's for my preference in this case to an E, even if you can't see it, to the size increase, even if you can't see it.
MY SUGGESTION: Try to compare the stones side by side and choose hte one that looks best to you. Better hearts, better sizzle, whatever is important to you. Tell the vendor that you are in a quandry over the stones and see if they will send both stones to third party (appraiser), so you can choose one before purchasing. With the cost of 1.25-1.33 stones, they will likely cover the shipping assuming you take one. That would work well for you if it could be arranged. Give it a shot.
I hope you find something that can help make your decision.
If all is really equal and you can't compare side by side...........flip a coin! heads is E, tails is E.
Good luck.
SIZE, a .16 mm difference is not significantly distinquishable in the size stone you are looking at.
Grading is inconsistent in carat, cut, clarity and color. In this example IMHO, cut and clarity are where to pay attention to make sure they are equal, then color.
COLOR: I have seen GIA I colors that couldn't be distinguished from F. Then I have seen GIA I color that was clearly tinted compared to a G. Being that your stones are in the E to G range, I doubt if there will be a noticeable difference. If you do not see the actual stones you will not know if you can tell the difference. Going into a store and looking at other E and G stones may be unreliable.
CUT: If the stones both are excellent cuts and both score high on the HCA and have no significant differentiating factors, then they are equal enough. But, if you do see some significant differences, then that is to be taken under consideration.
CLARITY: This may be a differentiating factor because you are at a level that can have a lot of variance. I have purchased an SI1 AGS stones which were so completely clean, under the loup it was hard to find a speck, subsequently graded VS2. I have seen SI1's which INHO were I1's because they had a black dot just under the table. In fact a vendor on this site advertised an SI1 that I was told has a black "barely visible" inclusion. Therefore, make sure that you don't have one lovely SI1 leaning toward VS, and another SI1 with a black feather leaning toward SI2/i1.
So I would first ascertain cut is equal.
EDIT: oops, i see cut is already stated as equal.
If cut is equal, I would then look to make sure both SI1's are nice clean ones, since there are great ones and not so great ones. If there was an inclusion visible to the eye of a hawk from any direction on one stone and not the other, the decision would be made. If not, move to color.
After cut and clarity are determined equal, if the colors are distiquishable, choose the E if whiter is better for you. Personally, If I could see the difference, all else equal i'd go for E.
If after all that, the cut, clarity, and color are indistinquishble, you may want to consider the bigger stone. Me? I'd likely get the E anyway, BUT that's for my preference in this case to an E, even if you can't see it, to the size increase, even if you can't see it.
MY SUGGESTION: Try to compare the stones side by side and choose hte one that looks best to you. Better hearts, better sizzle, whatever is important to you. Tell the vendor that you are in a quandry over the stones and see if they will send both stones to third party (appraiser), so you can choose one before purchasing. With the cost of 1.25-1.33 stones, they will likely cover the shipping assuming you take one. That would work well for you if it could be arranged. Give it a shot.
I hope you find something that can help make your decision.
If all is really equal and you can't compare side by side...........flip a coin! heads is E, tails is E.
Good luck.
researcher
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It's hard for me to say whether you'll see a color difference. It seriously depends on the stone. As I said, my "I" is ridiculously white. I've seen more color in some G's. You have to keep in mind that a stone's color is graded when it's table down, not when it's face up and set. That being said, I have a feeling that the reason my stone looks so white is the cut is spectacular, and some of the stones I've seen with higher color gradings that had a tint of yellow were probably stones with a worse cut. In other words, if cut is equal I bet there would be a visible difference in color.
One other thing to make this whole process more confusing is Blueman33 had a great point--clarity in an SI1 can differ greatly. I would NEVER have chosen an SI1 stone unless it was 100% eye clean. Merely eye clean based on the standard definition--that you can't see the inclusions from like a foot away and looking through the table--is not enough IMO. I lucked out and found an SI1 with an inclusion that is not visible even when holding the stone right up to my face and looking through the pavilion. If I had a stone with a visible inclusion it would bug me to no end. It does not bother some people, but it's something you should consider!
Sorry for making this process even harder, but I want you to get the best stone possible.
Oh, and as for mountings, you can choose an antique looking one with pave stones around it to give an optical illusion of the stone being MUCH bigger, or go with a very simple, thin band that will hold your solitaire a little higher. Here's a great site for lots of setting options: Pearlman's
One other thing to make this whole process more confusing is Blueman33 had a great point--clarity in an SI1 can differ greatly. I would NEVER have chosen an SI1 stone unless it was 100% eye clean. Merely eye clean based on the standard definition--that you can't see the inclusions from like a foot away and looking through the table--is not enough IMO. I lucked out and found an SI1 with an inclusion that is not visible even when holding the stone right up to my face and looking through the pavilion. If I had a stone with a visible inclusion it would bug me to no end. It does not bother some people, but it's something you should consider!
Sorry for making this process even harder, but I want you to get the best stone possible.
Oh, and as for mountings, you can choose an antique looking one with pave stones around it to give an optical illusion of the stone being MUCH bigger, or go with a very simple, thin band that will hold your solitaire a little higher. Here's a great site for lots of setting options: Pearlman's
Hi,
Yes thank you Blueman & Researcher, absolutely great points. I think the clarity & the eye-cleanness of it may be the deciding factor. I already know that the G colored stone has a feather in it, thought not near the surface so it shouldn't really cause any cracks or chips right? I need to check on the E stone & what type of inclusions. Because it's a hearts & arrows the cut should really be spectacular & shouldn't it definitely make the G face up whiter than an average cut G?
Yes thank you Blueman & Researcher, absolutely great points. I think the clarity & the eye-cleanness of it may be the deciding factor. I already know that the G colored stone has a feather in it, thought not near the surface so it shouldn't really cause any cracks or chips right? I need to check on the E stone & what type of inclusions. Because it's a hearts & arrows the cut should really be spectacular & shouldn't it definitely make the G face up whiter than an average cut G?
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I honestly think the color will be close.
Re: inclusions.
The cert maps of inclusions can be confusing.
Sometimes more inclusions are better. There are instances where one map on a cert looks terribly crowded with trash, and it's microscopic pin points that you absolutely cannot see in any way shape or form, but the cert map looks crowded with inclusions. There are instances where the cert map shows only one or two inclusions, and they can be detected with the naked eye.
So sometimes more tiny inclusions can be better IMO, than one big black streak or dot.
And lastly the maps don't spell out a dark or black inclusion. You could have two seemingly similar inclusions based on looking at a cert map, then find out one is black and one is not. Like a black dot (crystal) compared to a clear one.
So I would specifically ask about black inclusions. And if you trust the vedor enough, you could ask them to give their input as to which is cleaner.
Note: some vendors will sell you on a stone with one nasty inclusion that can be covered with a prong, so once mounted you have what appears to a very clear stone. I'm not a huge fan of the 'prong will cover it' pitch. A prong will cover a chip in the girdle too, but I shy from that approach.
Good luck!
Are they both priced comparitively? As others have mentioned, I would be most concerned about the difference in the clarity. That is how I would base my decision. If all is equal, I'd probably go w/ the smaller (under the 1.25 mark) E. Seems to represent the best value if you are looking for a very white stone.
But, I would think that the disparity in price to be somewhat significant between the E & G.
Also, if the feathers concern you, have a trained eye (independent appraiser)look at it.
Good luck.
headlight
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Since there is little difference in color from E to G I would suggest getting the most brilliant stone of the 2. Just because both are H&A doesn't neccessarily mean both have equal brilliance,fire & scintillation. I would suggest a comparison of the 2 side by side in a variety of lighting conditions, then make a choice, if this is possible for you to do. Cut has much greater impact on the appearance of the diamond than the difference from an E to a G.
Regards,
Regards,
quaeritur
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Kamuelamom
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