Help With Diamond For Tension Setting

[RedCapNat]

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking to buy a diamond for a tension setting ring (http://www.stevenkretchmer.com/product/omega-flat-of-2/) . I have a budget of 12-14k for just the diamond but I'd rather spend on the lower end of that spectrum since the ring is pricey.

I have looked on all the sites and I can't decide if for this tension setting which of the 4Cs I should focus on to make it as sparkling as possible after Cut (I will be looking at the highest quality cuts only). I know that I have to get a diamond that has a girdle of Medium to thick. I just wan tit to sparkle and standout in the setting.

I have looked at the following diamonds so far that have caught my eyes:

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...at-g-color-vvs2-clarity-ideal-cut-sku-2543743

https://www.bluenile.com/diamond-details/LD07955247

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...-color-vvs2-clarity-excellent-cut-sku-2228768

If you guys could help me figure out which one is better or even tell me what other characteristics I should look for I would really appreciate it as other than hours of the research that I have done, I'm simply a noob to the diamond field.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dancing Fire]

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking to buy a diamond for a tension setting ring (http://www.stevenkretchmer.com/product/omega-flat-of-2/) . I have a budget of 12-14k for just the diamond but I'd rather spend on the lower end of that spectrum since the ring is pricey.

I have looked on all the sites and I can't decide if for this tension setting which of the 4Cs I should focus on to make it as sparkling as possible after Cut (I will be looking at the highest quality cuts only). I know that I have to get a diamond that has a girdle of Medium to thick. I just wan tit to sparkle and standout in the setting.

Thanks in advance!

Hummm, haven't heard that before. I have a thin-med girdle on a tension setting. In fact my stone is thin-thin according to the cutter.

 

[RedCapNat]

Yeah, i talked to the store that is an authorized retailer for Steven Keetchmer and she had called them and thats what they told her.

 

[totallyfree]

I would be looking to make sure there are no inclusions on the girdle, or on the surface, regardless of the clarity indicator.

Further, double check that the setter will accept outside stones - some jewellers will not, particularly when working with a speciality setting.

 

[BlingDreams]

Given what you wrote, I'd probably opt for a Whiteflash A Cut Above (ACA) diamond. I don't own one but everyone on PS who does raves about their fire and scintillation. I did a quick search using color E-G, clarity VVS2-SI1, ideal everything (polish, symmetry, etc.) and ACA checkbox. It found 19 diamonds in your price range. From there, look at the ASET's and videos that they already have available (lucky you!) and choose which you like best.

You can also use these guidelines which I have seen posted numerous times when people have asked similar questions:

"depth - 60 - 62% - although my personal preference is to allow up to 62.4%
table - 54- 57%
crown angle - 34- 35 degrees
pavilion angle - 40.6- 41 degrees
girdle - avoid extremes, look for thin to slightly thick, thin to medium etc
polish and symmetry - very good and above

note - with crown and pavilion angles at the shallower ends ( CA 34- PA 40.6) and steeper ( CA 35- PA 41) check to make sure these angles complement in that particular diamond - eyeballs, Idealscope, trusted vendor input - check as appropriate!"

 

[Dancing Fire]

I love tension settings b/c it is easy to clean. Steven Kretchmer make beautiful tension settings, but his settings is out of my price range. I chose a cheaper Palladium 500 Gelin Abaci setting.

 

[BarbBe]

I love the look of tension settings and had one for my first engagement ring. Simplistic, modern and lets the diamond be in the focus. The diamond needs to have a even girdle; my stone loosened in the setting twice and needed to be recast.

Only draw back, I also found that the sharp edges of the setting made me more prone to scratch other objects when I would bang into them - like furniture, leather sofas, etc.

 

[Austina]

Are you really set on tension setting? I only ask because I have a diamond trilogy tension set ring which sits unworn. I had it for a week and lost one of the diamonds, I'm having it reset soon into a claw set mount so I can wear it without worrying.

 

[RedCapNat]

I really love the look of tension sets and one day when we were walking in the mall we happen to run into a store that sold Niessing brand tension sets and i remember my girlfried was in love with their uniqueness. She doesn't want just another ring that everyone else has (thats what she said). So these tension sets have been in my mind for the longest time as the option.

The person at the store who is an expert in Niessing told us that she has never seen one pop out if set correctly due to sheer amount of pressure on the rock.

 

[Austina]

I love the look of it, but after my experience, I wouldn't have it again, and please don't forget, the salesperson is there to sell

 

[ac117]

I know this is unsolicited advice, but I personally think the tension setting you choice is a bit manly with the straight lines and thickness. Would you consider a different tension setting? This one from Sholdt has more fluidity and is a bit more feminine IMO while still being different. It would save you some money, too.
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/leah-sholdt-platinum-6977p

It would be a one stop shop if you did one of BG's signature stones:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d...ls/1.315-g-vs2-round-diamond-ags-104093051003
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/d...ls/1.422-f-vs2-round-diamond-ags-104093051005

 

[RedCapNat]

@ac117 I like that design too. The reason I chose that is because she was the one so awed but she is more Tom boyish and she likes the understatement of it, if that makes sense. But the diamonds you sent are great.

 

[ac117]

As long as she loves it, that's all that matters! Looking forward to seeing what you choose and the final product!

 

[RedCapNat]

Does anyone here have any experience with tension sets specially Steven Kretchmer line? I read another topic on this forum where someone bought a ring from Niessing but the diamond fell out while watching a movie which is scaring me a little about tension sets.

 

[ac117]

I don't have any specific information about the setting you're considering, but @kenny provides some really good information on tension settings in this thread, along with some macro pics: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/asscher-cut-mens-ring-settings.224736/

eta: i did also find this thread that's by the same designer: https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/steven-kretchmer-tension-finally-done.81479/

eta: I actually meant to show you this Sholdt setting: http://sholdtdesign.com/sholdt-ring/r379-1/ (real pics in this thread: https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-xxx-rb-in-platinum-sholdt-semi-bezel.189969/)

 

[Dancing Fire]

Are you really set on tension setting? I only ask because I have a diamond trilogy tension set ring which sits unworn. I had it for a week and lost one of the diamonds, I'm having it reset soon into a claw set mount so I can wear it without worrying.

Who made the setting? that should never happened if it was done correctly.

 

[RedCapNat]

So I have found a whiteflash diamond that seems like a good balance but I'm a little scared of it being a G color vs an F color. Can you guys give me your 2 cents please?

https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/round-cut-loose-diamond-3703109.htm

I mostly chose this because of the fact that it has the a cut above cut and I was told here that it is a extremely good for sparkling and making it standout in this setting.

 

[kenny]

Who made the setting? that should never happened if it was done correctly.

+1.
Who made the setting?

Properly manufacturing a tension setting requires special knowledge alloys/processes.
Personally, I'd only trust 4 makers:
Gelin Abaci.
Niessing
Steven Kretchmer
Boonerings

I don't believe that story about a diamond falling out of a Niessing tension setting simply from applauding after a concert.

Why is it nobody poopoos prong settings?
Those are the settings that I read about here on PS 'donating' diamonds to the universe.
Prongs can get caught and bend by simply putting on a sweater, without your knowledge.
Tension settings, properly made, are so beefy you'll KNOW it if you traumatize your finger enough to bend the setting open.

 

[Austina]

I've absolutely no idea who made the setting I'm afraid, the ring was bought for me as a 20th anniversary present, and that was 18 years ago now. I wasn't digging trenches when it happened, I was in the house, so luckily found the diamond, took it back and they reset it. After that, I was too worried to wear it out.

 

[kenny]

I've absolutely no idea who made the setting I'm afraid, the ring was bought for me as a 20th anniversary present, and that was 18 years ago now. I wasn't digging trenches when it happened, I was in the house, so luckily found the diamond, took it back and they reset it. After that, I was too worried to wear it out.

That's a beautiful ring, but it's not a tension setting because there is metal under the diamonds.
Also, they'd never design a tension setting with 3 diamonds in a row like that, as it would fail the first time it got bumped.

In a tension setting there is no metal under the diamond.
The stone is held in the gap only by pressure exerted by both sides of the ring.

Believing your is a tension setting isn't your fault.
Unfortunately, I often see rings for sale that the vendors call tension settings which are not.
Occasionally they'll call them 'tension setting look or style' ...
IMO, even that is pushing it.

This is a tension setting:



Technically the dimaond is in compression, not tension, so the name tension setting is a misnomer.

Thanks for replying, as much of the bad image tension settings get is not deserved.

 

[RedCapNat]

@kenny It seems you are extremely knowledgable in these settings. Do you know what diamonds I should be looking at? I have a budget of $13K and wanted to be somewhere between 1.2 and 1.3 carats. Which diamonds would you recommend as far as cut, clarity and color goes? Any specific brand? My friend told me about Lazar brand diamonds but it seems to me they are almost $2K more than the prices I found online. Any help would be great

 

[Austina]

Thanks for clearing that up @kenny, the appraisal stated 'barley twist tension set trilogy' so I had no reason to think otherwise. Happy to be corrected

 

[kenny]

I'm gonna make a few posts.

I've had 4 tension settings made.
Ask your chosen setting maker about diamond choice criteria.
BTW Niessing and Kretchmer were my favorites, but their higher cost resulted in me using Gelin Abaci for a platinum setting for a round ACA from Whiteflash Later, all 3 asscher settings have been from Bonerings for titanium and (now my favorite) Cobalt Chrome ... since it stays very white.
Titanium and Cobalt Chrome are also VERY light compared to platinum or gold, which I appreciate in a substantial tension setting.
Titanium settings are a few hundred bucks, not a few thousand.
That leaves more $$$$$$$ for the diamond.
Bruce Boone's turnaround time is a few days, not a few months and there is no jeweler between you and the maker to pay.

As mentioned girdle thickness and clarity are concerns.
But the clarity grade itself may not be so cut and dry.
For example, one GIA VS2 may have only one substantial feather at a very unfortunate angle and location when considering the mechanical integrity.
That diamond (even though it's clarity is 2 grades better) may have more of a strength issue considering the great pressure from a tension setting than a GIA SI2 with only black ugly clouds right in the middle.

Thicker girdles are safer than thinner ones (true for any setting that's not a full bezel) but I'd not want to throw away weight or detract from light performance by going too thick.
Perhaps just try to look for medium, but again talk to Kretchmer.
If your jeweler won't accept outside stones find another Kretchmer dealer and do business over the phone/email.

 

[kenny]

How to pick a round with top light performance.
(Frankly, after knowing what I know now I'd just firm up my clarity and color preferences and buy an ACA from Whiteflash at my budget ... but here we go ...)

There is a bulletproof 2-step process.
1. HCA ............ https://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca
2. Ideascope ..............https://www.pricescope.com/tools/ideal-scope

The HCA score alone is not enough info to make a buy decision, only a rejection decision.
Why? Because 2 of the numbers you put in are just averages of 8 numbers each. (the 8 crown angles and the 8 pavilion angles as you go around the diamond)
Those 8 may all be the same (a good thing) or may vary wildly (a bad thing) but average out to the perfect number.
This brings to mind a funny ... A person with one hand in boiling water and the other frozen in a block of ice feels, on the average, very comfortable.

HCA: Plug in 4 numbers from the grading report.
HCA gives a score.
Reject rounds scoring over 2.0.
For those scoring 2 or less get an Idealscope image.
Post the image here for feedback or compare it to this chart, https://ideal-scope.com/reference-chart-ideal-scope-images/

 

[kenny]

In the US I'd only consider diamonds graded by GIA or AGS.
Many other labs lie about color and clarity grades.
Astonishing & disgusting, but true.

You asked about what color grade is okay.
It depends on YOUR feelings.
Some want to notice NO color; others are willing to "tolerate" more body color to get more size.
Still, others prefer a warmer diamond, lucky them.
Only you can make the call.

That said better cut returns so much light that it conceals body color, but only in the top view and we usually see our diamond in a side view.
A tension setting gives you a very naked side view of your diamond.
But on the upside that lets more light into and out of the side.
IOW tension settings give you more of a light show
You get more of the diamond light party you paid for because the diamond is not trapped behind bars.

Also, as DF mentioned, a tension setting is a breeze to clean.
It takes me 15 seconds and I clean it twice a day ... again assuring all of the diamond light party I paid for.

To discover your color tolerance/preference, get out to jewelry stores and view some diamonds in person, but get them away from those friggin jewelry store lights where all you're going to see is blinding fire that vastly overpowers body color.
Oh, and the person who'll be wearing the diamond should be the one to make the color call.
Maybe you think you must pay the high price for an F but she would prefer the benefits of buying a J.

Better yet, if you have the time and credit, buy a couple of different color grades from a reputable Internet vendor.
Live with them for a week or so and return them for full refunds, avoiding interest charges by buy them on the first day of your billing cycle.
Return them quickly so the refund is on the same cycle.
You'll be out the cost of shipping and insurance but the best way to establish your diamond color comfort level is in your home, at your leisure, under many different lighting conditions, and with no salesperson breathing down your neck.

Next if you are going with yellow gold some people feel more body color is acceptable since the diamond will reflect some of the hue of the setting anyway.

 

[kenny]

Thanks for clearing that up @kenny, the appraisal stated 'barley twist tension set trilogy' so I had no reason to think otherwise. Happy to be corrected

Thanks.
It's all good.

 

[Dancing Fire]

Kenny can write a book on tension settings...