Yet another ring disaster.. please help me!

[Cleo]

You honestly wouldn''t believe that so many things could go wrong with a single, solitaire engagement ring... but there''s been yet another hold-up in the journey of trying to get my ring right.

Lucky I''m not superstitious or I would be running for the hills right now!

You may recall I took a trip to London to get my diamond mounted (properly) in a new mount.

The jeweller called today and said the ring mount had an asymmetric prong and the craftsman wouldn''t set the diamond.

It would take too long to get them to make a mount for me, as I leave for New Zealand on the 25th May.

So, I shall return the new mount I bought for a refund.

My problem now is that I need to find a new, well-made ring mount.

I just want a simple, 4-claw setting, in 18ct yellow gold. This challenge is made harder by the fact I reaaaaaaaaaaaaaally want 18ct yellow gold prongs.

I know there are some great settings experts on this forum and I would be so grateful if you could point me towards some lovely settings. Obviously I have the diamond already, so it needs to be somewhere that will be happy just to sell me a mount.

I''ve shed more tears over this ring than you would ever think possible and I just want it right. Is that really to much to ask?

Thank you all so much for your help in advance... I just don''t know where to start.

x x x

 

[Lorelei]

Cleo, I am not well up on settings to really be able to offer any useful advice, but I wanted to send you a hug!!

 

[Deelight]

You poor bugger

, I really have no idea someone will chime in though I am sure. Sending hugs your way.

 

[chrono]

Cleo,
I'm so sorry to hear of your troubles.
1. Can you please tell me (us) the shape of the diamond and the measurements?
2. What is the style you are looking for? Just simple 4 prong solitaire? All in yellow gold?

I'd try Pearlman's as he has a lot of 18kt yellow gold items in stock. Call him because the response via telephone is MUCH quicker.
www.pearlmanjewelers.com

 

[denverappraiser]

Most of the ‘simple’ solitaire style mountings are made with die struck heads and those aren’t available in 18ky. You can have someone cast it or there are a variety of fabrication techniques available but this is the reason you’re finding it difficult to get someone to make it in a hurry.

I’m sure you’ve already had this discussion but why do you want 18ky prongs? The reason the manufacturers don’t do this as a matter of course is because it’s a very soft material and it’s not really suitable for prongs that are intended to be worn on a daily basis throughout a lifetime, the usual plan for an engagement ring. You’re paying a premium to custom make a piece that will be inferior mechanically. It’s not utterly insane if it’s what you want but has anyone reaaaaaally tried to talk you out of this?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[Cleo]

Thank you all so much for your sympathy and continued help - I am extremely grateful.

My diamond is a Round Brilliant as follows:

AGS#: 8362010
Shape and Style: Round Brilliant
Measurements: 6.49 - 6.52 x 3.92 mm
Cut Grade: AGS Ideal 0
Polish: Ideal
Symmetry: Ideal
Proportions: Ideal
Color Grade: AGS 1.0 (F)
Clarity Grade: AGS 4 (VS2)
Carat Weight: 1.001
Fluorescence: Negligible
Comments: "AGSL 8362010" has been inscribed on the girdle of this diamond.

Table: 56.7%
Crown Angle: 33.8
Crown Height: 14.6%
Girdle: Faceted, 0.9% to 1.5%
Pavilion Angle: 40.8
Pavilion Depth: 43.1%
Total Depth: 60.2%
Culet: Pointed

Yes, I am looking for a simple 4-prong solitaire, all in yellow gold.

My new (and old) mount were made for me and, I believe, were cast. I don''t mind waiting to have something made - time isn''t really a problem - I would rather have it done right.

I have always been very set on what I want, even though this isn''t necessarily going to be the strongest, safest, most secure mount in the world. I realise that 4 prongs, in 18ct gold, set high carries risks - but to my mind, that''s why I have insurance. That''s the look I want...

I don''t expect to wear this mount for a lifetime, as I know I intend to upgrade the stone in a few years time anyway - and will undoubtedly require a new mount to go along with that.

Yes, people have tried to talk me out of it... but I''m not the easiest person to be dissuaded from something once I''ve made my mind up. I also tend to favour aesthetics over practicality!

Here''s the mount I have at the moment:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-the-yellow-gold-diamond-rings.84284/page-2

It doesn''t have to be identical (I love the Leon Mege classic solitaire... just not in platinum!).... and I would be so grateful for ideas.

Thank you all again.

x x x

 

[Ellen]

Cleo, I'm no setting expert either, just wanted to say I'm sorry.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 5/13/2008 7:38:20 AM
Author: denverappraiser
Most of the ‘simple’ solitaire style mountings are made with die struck heads and those aren’t available in 18ky. You can have someone cast it or there are a variety of fabrication techniques available but this is the reason you’re finding it difficult to get someone to make it in a hurry.

I’m sure you’ve already had this discussion but why do you want 18ky prongs? The reason the manufacturers don’t do this as a matter of course is because it’s a very soft material and it’s not really suitable for prongs that are intended to be worn on a daily basis throughout a lifetime, the usual plan for an engagement ring. You’re paying a premium to custom make a piece that will be inferior mechanically. It’s not utterly insane if it’s what you want but has anyone reaaaaaally tried to talk you out of this?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

Neil, may I ask as this info on yellow gold prongs is new to me..does this also apply for 18k white gold prongs? as obviously these are very common? If no, is there something that makes white stronger than yelllow? thankyou!

 

[Cleo]

Date: 5/13/2008 8:14:35 AM
Author: arjunajane

Neil, may I ask as this info on yellow gold prongs is new to me..does this also apply for 18k white gold prongs? as obviously these are very common? If no, is there something that makes white stronger than yelllow? thankyou!

Thankyou for asking this - I had also wondered about this in the past too!

x x x

 

[arjunajane]

Cleo, not sure if you have seen my plain cathedral solitaire in 18k rose gold? i had it made by GOG (I believe they outsourced it). For a mount that won''t be permanent, I couldn''t ask for nicer. I''m positive would be ok to make inYG seeing as RG is even rarer request. Whether they will sell just a mount, is another question though..

Also re to L.M, I have recently had him confirm he would make the classic solitaire in YG for me, however this was with WG prongs. I am not sure if he will do YG prongs, but it doesn''t hurt to ask? (if thats what you really want, of course).

My other suggestion would just be to find a decent benchman local to you and have exactly what you want made? This is what I''m doing to avoid the taxes/hassle of long distance - I just had a chat with my jeweler today, and its refreshing to be able to get exactly what I want, without having to compromise on details "off the shelf" so to speak.

My apologies if you have already ruled out these options and I''m repeating bad advice!

 

[gwendolyn]

Oh honey, I''m so sorry that you''re having to deal with yet another problem with your ring. Soon, very soon, it will be perfect and you will be past all this mess! I wish I knew something about settings so I could help you out.

 

[lesco]

Cleo, I'm so sorry (((hugs))). You have been so supportive with my own setting dillemas that it really bothers me you are still going thru this. I'm still in a setting hell of my own, the vendor asked for one more chance to get the setting right and my FI agreed. I'm not happy with that at all. Trust me, I understand your frustration.

Check excel diamonds here:

http://www.exceldiamonds.com/-Engagement-Rings-5/Diamond-Solitaire-Engagement-Rings-11/Classic-Solitaire-Engagement-Ring-Setting-1306.html'm

This is a 4 prong solitaire, it can be made in 18kt gold. The band is on the thick side, I'm not sure if that is something you will like.

They are local to me (NYC). I can find out for you if they can do something thinner or whatever questions you have and post back. I've spoken to them in the past and they seem to have no problem with selling several settings alone.

It looks that several settings can be made with 18kt. I'm sure others will give you better ideas than mine. I'm still a newbie. Hang in there hon!

 

[tberube]

Date: 5/13/2008 7:53:07 AM
Author: Cleo
Thank you all so much for your sympathy and continued help - I am extremely grateful.


My diamond is a Round Brilliant as follows:


AGS#: 8362010

Shape and Style: Round Brilliant

Measurements: 6.49 - 6.52 x 3.92 mm

Cut Grade: AGS Ideal 0

Polish: Ideal

Symmetry: Ideal

Proportions: Ideal

Color Grade: AGS 1.0 (F)

Clarity Grade: AGS 4 (VS2)

Carat Weight: 1.001

Fluorescence: Negligible

Comments: ''AGSL 8362010'' has been inscribed on the girdle of this diamond.



Table: 56.7%

Crown Angle: 33.8

Crown Height: 14.6%

Girdle: Faceted, 0.9% to 1.5%

Pavilion Angle: 40.8

Pavilion Depth: 43.1%

Total Depth: 60.2%

Culet: Pointed


Yes, I am looking for a simple 4-prong solitaire, all in yellow gold.


My new (and old) mount were made for me and, I believe, were cast. I don''t mind waiting to have something made - time isn''t really a problem - I would rather have it done right.


I have always been very set on what I want, even though this isn''t necessarily going to be the strongest, safest, most secure mount in the world. I realise that 4 prongs, in 18ct gold, set high carries risks - but to my mind, that''s why I have insurance. That''s the look I want...


I don''t expect to wear this mount for a lifetime, as I know I intend to upgrade the stone in a few years time anyway - and will undoubtedly require a new mount to go along with that.


Yes, people have tried to talk me out of it... but I''m not the easiest person to be dissuaded from something once I''ve made my mind up. I also tend to favour aesthetics over practicality!


Here''s the mount I have at the moment:


https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-the-yellow-gold-diamond-rings.84284/page-2


It doesn''t have to be identical (I love the Leon Mege classic solitaire... just not in platinum!).... and I would be so grateful for ideas.


Thank you all again.


x x x

Oh Cleo - I''m so sorry to hear you''re STILL going through so much trouble with your ring. Boo.

I totally hear your preferences - it''s good to know what you want, most people don''t! But...what about 14K gold? It''s stronger. I''d just hate to see you continue to go through troubles with your ring!

 

[denverappraiser]

18k White is MUCH stiffer than 18ky. It has to do with the way the molecules of the metal interact within the alloy. Most 18kw alloys are actually even harder than 14kw. There are exceptions to this, like the alloys used by Kretchmer and others in their tension mounts. It’s the same thing that makes steel a better material than iron and why different steels can vary so much. People get PhD’s in this and it’s way beyond what can be quickly answered in a few paragraphs.

Cleo, I’m not trying to talk you out of it, I just wanted to make sure you were familiar with the issue and was explaining why you’re finding this a difficult request. By all means get what you want, just be aware of the tradeoffs in place and be prepared for a bit more maintenance than if you did it in white or platinum. I agree that it’s a good idea to sell this risk to the insurance company.

Perhaps I misunderstood the question. It sounds like you’ve got a setter you like who is aware of your criteria and is upholding your standards even at the risk of losing a sale. I must say, this is a good sign. This seems like a vote for having them make one that works. The problem you describe is that they can’t do it by the 25th. Are you moving to New Zealand or is this just a short trip? Can they do the job you want and have it done for you when you get back?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[Pandora II]

Knowing who the setter is, I must say that I was very impressed that they called me up before they reset mine to say that the really badly twisted prong would be hard to fix properly and they would prefer to unmount the whole stone and then remount it 1mm lower and would I give them permission to do that, rather than just doing what they thought was right. I can barely see the difference in height either.

I think its good that the setter isn''t happy to do any old thing on your ring.

Could they not recommend a source for mounts?

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 5/13/2008 9:27:10 AM
Author: denverappraiser

18k White is MUCH stiffer than 18ky. It has to do with the way the molecules of the metal interact within the alloy. Most 18kw alloys are actually even harder than 14kw. There are exceptions to this, like the alloys used by Kretchmer and others in their tension mounts. It’s the same thing that makes steel a better material than iron and why different steels can vary so much. People get PhD’s in this and it’s way beyond what can be quickly answered in a few paragraphs.

Cleo, I’m not trying to talk you out of it, I just wanted to make sure you were familiar with the issue and was explaining why you’re finding this a difficult request. By all means get what you want, just be aware of the tradeoffs in place and be prepared for a bit more maintenance than if you did it in white or platinum. I agree that it’s a good idea to sell this risk to the insurance company.

Perhaps I misunderstood the question. It sounds like you’ve got a setter you like who is aware of your criteria and is upholding your standards even at the risk of losing a sale. I must say, this is a good sign. This seems like a vote for having them make one that works. The problem you describe is that they can’t do it by the 25th. Are you moving to New Zealand or is this just a short trip? Can they do the job you want and have it done for you when you get back?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

Thankyou very much for the explanation neil.

 

[Cleo]

Thankyou all again for your lovely, kind replies. As you might expect this has got my day off to rather a bad start and I''m not the happiest bunny today.

Arjunajane - I would love to see your mount, do you have photos of it, or a link to a thread? I wonder if LM would do his classic setting in 18ct yellow gold...my only slight reservation with this setting is that the stone sits quite low to the finger in the photos I have seen - and I love a high setting.

Lesco - thankyou for the link. That ring looks very pretty.. it''s a shame there is only one view! I will take a look at the other settings on the site too.

Neil - thankyou again for your time and reply, and the info about the 18ct gold strength - that''s very interesting. We are off to NZ for 18 months to 2 years... and it may well become permanent. My post may have been ambiguous, as the reason I asked the jeweller if they could make a mount and set the diamond before the 25th is because they already have my ring in their possession. It would have been great if they could have done it before I left.

Pandora - they said they would not make an 18ct yg mount with 4 prongs.

I feel so sad that having gone to the trouble of finding a jeweller that would do a great job, that I''m now back to square one and am going to have to start the whole process again from scratch.. including finding a new mount....

x x x

 

[Pandora II]

Date: 5/13/2008 11:22:16 AM
Author: Cleo

Pandora - they said they would not make an 18ct yg mount with 4 prongs.

I feel so sad that having gone to the trouble of finding a jeweller that would do a great job, that I'm now back to square one and am going to have to start the whole process again from scratch.. including finding a new mount....

x x x

Did they say why they wouldn't ? Perhaps they are worried that your insurance company would hold them liable if you lost the diamond as a result of having a prong go?

I'm so sorry you're going through all this. Just think though, eventually it will all be sorted and then you can enjoy your precious!

 

[JSM]

I''m sorry you are going through this.

Thank you for the explanation of 18ky versus 18kw, Denver Appraiser! I was curious about this myself.

Cleo, Is is possible to have the ring made of 18k and the prongs of 14k? Will this be stronger so the prongs will be more secure? Will there be a large color difference? Just throwing out ideas. Good luck.

 

[Cleo]

Date: 5/13/2008 12:25:42 PM
Author: jsm
I''m sorry you are going through this.

Thank you for the explanation of 18ky versus 18kw, Denver Appraiser! I was curious about this myself.

Cleo, Is is possible to have the ring made of 18k and the prongs of 14k? Will this be stronger so the prongs will be more secure? Will there be a large color difference? Just throwing out ideas. Good luck.

JSM - it''s funny you should ask that, because Neil''s reply made me wonder the same thing!

x x x

 

[Rhea]

That sucks! I don''t know who makes settings like that. Could you just start calling PS vendors and seeing if anyone could have one made and to you in a reasonable time?

 

[purrfectpear]

Knowing the issue of 18K yellow gold being too soft, is there a reason why you wouldn''t settle for an 18K mount with 14K yg prongs?

I know I wouldn''t be comfortable with 18K yg prongs either. I had an 18K yg charm bracelet that was VERY soft and showed every scratch and ding.

 

[kkayser]

I hope you want an 18kt white mount. If you put an F color stone in a yellow gold mount you might as well have a K color stone because the stone will take up the color of the mount. Why does the mount have to be 18kt? Put it in 14kt white, why not? And why four prong? Six prong is much safer because, if you lose one prong, nothing happens, with four, if you lose one, the stone can fall out. Also, six prongs are smaller than four prongs and will show less.

 

[purrfectpear]

Date: 5/14/2008 12:47:11 PM
Author: kkayser
I hope you want an 18kt white mount. If you put an F color stone in a yellow gold mount you might as well have a K color stone because the stone will take up the color of the mount. Why does the mount have to be 18kt? Put it in 14kt white, why not? And why four prong? Six prong is much safer because, if you lose one prong, nothing happens, with four, if you lose one, the stone can fall out. Also, six prongs are smaller than four prongs and will show less.

OP specifically is only interested in yellow gold.

 

[strmrdr]

any Jeweler anywhere in the world can get what you want in 14k in a couple days.
Stuller has it in 18k as does gsgold just to name 2 but that dont help in London on a tight time frame.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 5/14/2008 12:47:11 PM
Author: kkayser
I hope you want an 18kt white mount. If you put an F color stone in a yellow gold mount you might as well have a K color stone because the stone will take up the color of the mount. Why does the mount have to be 18kt? Put it in 14kt white, why not? And why four prong? Six prong is much safer because, if you lose one prong, nothing happens, with four, if you lose one, the stone can fall out. Also, six prongs are smaller than four prongs and will show less.

I think everyone is entitled to their own preferences - yes, security is an issue with rings, but probably more so aesthetics are peoples first priority. Cleo already had an 18k yellow gold ring and would like another one. I am another person who is fond of yellow gold, despite the trend toward all white metals. I don't believe your assertion of "might as well have a K colour" is correct at all. This topic has been widely debated here on PS, but this has really not shown to be conclusive.
I personally dislike the look of 6 prongs and wouldn't ever get 6 just to make my ring a lil safer - as Cleo has said, thats what we have for insurance for, right?

cleo, here is the thread https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-poh-rhr-more-pics.83238/
pls ask anymore questions if you need.

 

[Lorelei]

Bump!

Cleo, how are you?

I miss not seeing you so much!

 

[honey22]

Date: 5/14/2008 12:47:11 PM
Author: kkayser
I hope you want an 18kt white mount. If you put an F color stone in a yellow gold mount you might as well have a K color stone because the stone will take up the color of the mount. Why does the mount have to be 18kt? Put it in 14kt white, why not? And why four prong? Six prong is much safer because, if you lose one prong, nothing happens, with four, if you lose one, the stone can fall out. Also, six prongs are smaller than four prongs and will show less.

Where to start?

I'm sorry but this is one of the most absurd statements I have heard! Have you actually seen a well cut colourless stone in a yg mount? I have a D colour ACA in a ygold setting and it looks nothing but ICY WHITE.

The mount has to be yg as Cleo loves ygold, end of story.

It has to have four prongs as Cleo loves the look of four prongs, not 6.

A well made 4 prong setting will be fine, I am sure Cleo is diligent about getting her prongs checked, and in the event that a prong should come loose, I am sure Cleo has an excellent insurance policy.

Hope that clears it up for you.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 7/16/2008 6:07:31 AM
Author: honey22

Date: 5/14/2008 12:47:11 PM
Author: kkayser
I hope you want an 18kt white mount. If you put an F color stone in a yellow gold mount you might as well have a K color stone because the stone will take up the color of the mount. Why does the mount have to be 18kt? Put it in 14kt white, why not? And why four prong? Six prong is much safer because, if you lose one prong, nothing happens, with four, if you lose one, the stone can fall out. Also, six prongs are smaller than four prongs and will show less.

Where to start?

I''m sorry but this is one of the most absurd statements I have heard! Have you actually seen a well cut colourless stone in a yg mount? I have a D colour ACA in a ygold setting and it looks nothing but ICY WHITE.

The mount has to be yg as Cleo loves ygold, end of story.

It has to have four prongs as Cleo loves the look of four prongs, not 6.

A well made 4 prong setting will be fine, I am sure Cleo is diligent about getting her prongs checked, and in the event that a prong should come loose, I am sure Cleo has an excellent insurance policy.

Hope that clears it up for you.

DITTO Honey. I think this is also one of the most narrow minded things I have read on here.
As you can prolly tell, it really cheesed me off but I tried to keep my cool.
I should''ve just said what I really thought too - out-there and just plain Wrong.

Anyways, pls excuse my rant.

I also would love to hear an update from Cleo!

 

[RxTechRN2b]

Is your insurance okay with the diamond mounted in only 4 prongs of 18 YG? I know what it''s like to be particular in getting exactly the look I want in my jewelry, but to purposely risk losing my diamond would be out of the question, even if I thought the insurance would replace it. Is there any way you can make a compromise on just the prongs? Yellow gold bands with platinum heads look divine! I was playing monday night cards with my aunt the other night, and every week I just love to admire her wedding set. She''s been married close to 50 years, and the YG has that lovely buttery softness. But the head on both the solitaire with 2 small shoulder stones on each side, and wedding band with 5 small round diamonds, is done in platinum. It just looks so rich, and the contrast is stunning not only between the white and yellow metals, but because the diamonds look so white in the platinum. Having a diamond set in yellow prongs is usually done to mask yellow undertones OR to emphasize a canary yellow diamond. My canary is in a platinum ring with 18k YG bezel, and while the bezel has never loosened, when I look through a loop, the gold looks almost like its been chewed up due to so many scratches and dings (thankfully it looks fine to my naked eye and the integrity of the setting is safe).