want to discuss my bezel setting

[Cehrabehra]

I know what I want, but I'm not sure it will work - I can't find anything like what I want so there's a chance that it just isn't possible.

What I want is a bullnosed bezel - a round tubelike ring that goes around the base of the stone the way this goes around the girdle of this diamond:

So from the top it looks like this:

I have been in love with this setting since I came to PS and I really think the fluid chunkiness of this bezel would look perfect with the lines of my stone but I have a couple questions...

1) is it possible to set a stone in such a THICK bezel? Meaning - to leave off that thin ribbon of typical bezel stuff and just put it in a thick ring?

2) how high does the bezel need to go?

3) if the bezel is really high, would it be possible to create a wrap of two thinner tube wire things spaced apart (one at the highest point and one at the bottom of the stone) and link them with some sort of architectural detail like columns or waves or something?

4) is it possible to create a skirt/cradle in a cast and then set the stone down into it (from the bottom) and then attach the bottom to it by welding or something?

Sorry if any of this has been discussed before, it frustrates me that my search on ps is always limited to only 2 words or it errors out. Most of the bezel settings I've found are for faceted stones and all of the cab bezels are of the one traditional type - so maybe what I suggest is impossible... but I hope not

 

[Bella_mezzo]

Hi Cehrabera??? I''m not totally sure what you are looking for?

Are you looking for an enclosed bezel with architectural details? or do you like the bezel floating? or do you like something more like the thick etoile where the bezel is just part of the ring?

 

[Michael_E]

Date: 5/9/2010 9:53:29 AM
Author:Cehrabehra

1) is it possible to set a stone in such a THICK bezel? Meaning - to leave off that thin ribbon of typical bezel stuff and just put it in a thick ring?

Yes, the stone needs to fit tightly into the setting and it''s then set much like a flush set small stone, with the edges of the thick "bezel" being pressed down onto the stone and grabbing it by the very edges.

2) how high does the bezel need to go?

It only needs to be just above the girdle line, but can be higher if you want more material above the girdle. It probably shouldn''t be any higher than the table of the stone, since you need to be able to press down on the bezel area and if it get''s too high then it is no longer possible to set that way, (though there are other ways). The bottom part of the "bezel" should extend past the bottom of the stone in order to protect it and you.

3) if the bezel is really high, would it be possible to create a wrap of two thinner tube wire things spaced apart (one at the highest point and one at the bottom of the stone) and link them with some sort of architectural detail like columns or waves or something?

Sure, you can do whatever you''d like between the bottom and the top of the bezel, though the more intricate it is, the more hand work will be required to finish it, (meaning higher cost).

4) is it possible to create a skirt/cradle in a cast and then set the stone down into it (from the bottom) and then attach the bottom to it by welding or something?

Yes, this is not quite clear, so you should consider providing a sketch to whomever you will be discussing the actual construction of this ring with.

Sorry if any of this has been discussed before, it frustrates me that my search on ps is always limited to only 2 words or it errors out. Most of the bezel settings I''ve found are for faceted stones and all of the cab bezels are of the one traditional type - so maybe what I suggest is impossible... but I hope not

Cabbed stones are often made from materials which are not as strong, nor as resistant to heat, as faceted stones, either through inclusions or just the material itself. Because of this, cab''s are often set so that they experience a lower amount of force from the setting method, leading to thin bezels which can be pressed onto the stone very easily and with minimal pressure. If you have a cab made from a strong, tough material it can usually be set in many different ways than something not so durable. What are you planning on setting, (have any pictures)?

 

[LD]

Not entirely sure what you mean about wires of gold holding the diamond under the bezel but ........

I have a tension setting and below the side stones there are two pieces of metal holding the diamonds in place. So from the top, it appears that the diamond is floating between two pieces of metal but to give it more stability it's actually anchored from moving by two thin bars.

From the top - look at the side diamonds - they appear to be held by the tension setting.

And they are but then look from the side and you can see the white gold bars giving them stability. Note though that there isn't anything below the central stone and that is held purely by the tension:

Apologies if this isn't what you meant.

 

[Cehrabehra]

Thanks guys - I will respond more later, I have to go to a class but just in case I catch michael before he goes to sleep I wanted to say it was the pear aqua cab that I''m talking about.

What I would most prefer is a 2mm cylinder of metal that goes around my finger and wraps level around the base of the stone, completely seamlessly. I''m not sure if 2mm is high enough up a 6mm stone to be secure, but this would be my ultimate preference. The metal would never go up, it would always be flush to the finger and preferably there would be no metal that extended up the stone beyond that of the band ring around the base.

 

[Cehrabehra]

Date: 5/9/2010 1:20:38 PM
Author: Bella_mezzo
Hi Cehrabera??? I''m not totally sure what you are looking for?


Are you looking for an enclosed bezel with architectural details? or do you like the bezel floating? or do you like something more like the thick etoile where the bezel is just part of the ring?

I know I mentioned a few different things - I don''t want all of them, I just have kind of an order like well I want A but if A doesn''t work than I''d modify it to B and if that doesn''t work...

A to me would be to have the bezel part of the ring - with just one cylinder of metal that went around my finger and encompassed the stone and met up with itself again maintaining a constant 2mm all the way around and not having any other metal detailing to get in the way. If it needed to get raised up a little I could see myself being okay with a slight outline of the stone shape sitting atop the stone shape... and if that''s still not high enough I would want to tuck some air between two bands of metal like:
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Not sure if that''s going to turn out lol

 

[Cehrabehra]

I just realized my little drawing didn''t work - ps removed all of my extra spaces lol

 

[Stone Hunter]

Pretty cab!! I''m terrible at jewelry design but I do think a bezel is the way to go with this stone! Try to relax and have fun!

I know it''s hard to relax when you want something so much!