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To the Diamond Pros - Please help me pick the one for me!

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squawks

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
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Hello, everybody! I am a newbie as you can see with my first post but have no fear as I attempted to educate myself on diamonds to the greatest extent possible with whatever time was left for in the past several months!
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Let me apologize in advance for this tediously lengthly post!

It all started when me and my girlfriend went in a Tiffany & Co. store to get ourselves a pair of 'promise rings'. While waiting for our order of platinum bands to go through, I was quite impress with the brilliance, scintillation, and fire of the diamond stones there. Tiffany placed high Kelvin lighting specifically focused on these diamonds so as to please my eyes. Little did I know it, I was quickly sucked into this diamond blackhole and began with the basic 4 C's.

As time passed, I delved deeper and deeper - now reading into the best proportions, cuts, different standards of appraising diamonds, etc. There is simply too much information!
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But, one day, as I finally discovered PriceScope and began reading into several threads here - some complicated talk about the mechanisms/propriety of DiamondDock, IdealScope, HCA backgrounds, the glossary, and shallow vs deep debate...my head began to hurt quite a bit. I heard a loud pop and upon feeling my head, I realized that the day has finally come - my head has exploded from excessive information!

Eventually, I gave up. I simply gave up after the simple fact that my significant other has absolutely no knowledge of diamonds and probably won't ever be interested in the technical aspects of them as long as they continue to hold their aesthetic beauty. With that said, my conquest to capture the best diamond with the most perfect brilliance properties ended...to some extent.

I stopped focusing my search on just purely F and above diamonds with VVS2 or better - simply because my girlfriend can't see well, doesn't want to see well, and most likely doesn't care in the end. Sometimes she even confuses one of my two dachshunds for the other!
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And, after reading numerous threads here of how people with J stones say they still look pretty when set in platinum, my worries were eased and I figured hey, if these folks are happy, I'm sure my girlfriend will be! While I may be quite picky with my own eyes and am also color/detail sensitive, it always boils down to the simple fact that the diamond should solely impress my girlfriend! Apparently, the only thing she cares about diamonds is how big they are (carat-wise) and how pretty they appear (briliance, scintillation, and fire). So in effect, I focused on obtaining a stone that is as big as possible - turns out to be ~1.5 carats for a J stone while maintaining great proportions.

I understand that 1.5 is considered one of those 'magic numbers' where cutters tend to usually sacrifice an ideal cut in order to make the 1.5 carat cutoff just for marketing purposes - with that said, I made sure all the proportions remaind ideal and also used HCA as support for this.

So, let's bring on the stones! I have 3 stones picked out; all of them with ideal polish, cut, and symmetry and all graded by the AGSL (all are basically AGS 000). All of them are nearly equally priced, so exclude price as a factor from these stones
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. The prospective stone will be set in platinum. All stones have no fluorescence.

Stone #1: 1.554 J/SI1 (AGSL report from 01/2006) with HCA of 1.2 (EX, EX, EX, VG)
Crown angle/%:
34.4/14.9%
Pavillion angle/%: 40.8/43.1%
Table %: 56.5%
Depth %: 61.1%
Girdle: thin to slightly thick, faceted, 1.2 - 4.0%
Culet: pointed
Dimensions: 7.43 x 7.51 x 4.56 mm

Stone #2: 1.550 J/SI1 (AGSL report from 12/13/04) with HCA of 1.2 (EX, EX, VG, VG)
Crown angle/%: 33.7/14.3%
Pavillion angle/%: 41.0/43.4%
Table %: 57%
Depth %: 61.1%
Girdle: thin to slightly thick, faceted, 0.9 - 2.1%
Culet: none
Dimensions: 7.46 x 7.5 x 4.57 mm

**This stone, while maintaing an HCA score of 1.2, only has VG fire - why is that, when the HCA score is the same as stone #1, yet stone #1 has EX fire? It also amuses me that the girdle on this stone is still considered thin to slightly thick when the girdle percentages are quite deviant from stone #1!
**Stone #2 appears to have its internal inclusions near the edges of the pavillion while stone #1 has a concentrated area of inclusions directly beneath the center of the crown (I am concerned the inclusions will be painstakingly noticeable to the naked eye - I'm not concerned about my g/f welding a loupe which she probably won't ever do!)

Stone #3 1.415 J/VS1 (AGSL report with the date mysteriously white-outed but looks like the same format as 2006 report) with HCA of 1.5 (EX, EX, EX, VG)
Crown angle/%:
35.7/16.2%
Pavillion angle/%: 40.6/42.7%
Table %: 55%
Depth %: 62.1%
Girdle: thin to medium, faceted, 1.3 - 3.5%
Culet: none
Dimensions: 7.2 x 7.16 x 4.46 mm

** This stone has a girdle that's not faceted (that matter much?) and has very little inclusions on the report. The HCA score is also only 1.5 - not as good as the scores from the two above.

Additional questions I have:
1) I plan to have the prospective stone appraised to confirm they are legit and stick up to at least the grades in the certificate - I read how some appraisers can also set diamonds in settings for me - is that indeed the case? If not, is it possible to have someone set a loose diamond in a setting that I purchase elsewhere?
2) I have always been a huge fan of the the Tiffany setting - I could have sworn the ones I saw in the store are smooth/rounded (not knife-edged) but posters here showing replicas of the Tiffany setting are indeed knife-edged. Is there such a thing as a smooth/rounded (sorry for not knowing the name) Tiffany setting - and if so, which vendors carry them? EDIT: I am concerned the knife-edge would be bothersome for my g/f!
3) I am aware that two of the stones above are SI1 - I have read from the advice of others to confirm that these stones are 'eye-clean'. These stones are all from online vendors so if they cannot affirm them as eye-clean I always have the option to return/exchange them. I was wondering if that was specifically all I needed to ask over the phone: "can you confirm if they are eye-clean?" - with or without a loupe?

Again, I apologize for indulging in such a long post and thank you very much for reading this far. Any opinions, thoughts, or advice would be highly appreciated.

-Kevin

EDIT: Forgot to enter the information for stone #3 properly!
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Fixed now!

EDIT: I would very much desire a Tiffany Lucide-style setting (with rounded, not knife-edged) as the following:
14762027_FL_LRG.jpg
 
Date: 4/27/2006 2:21:23 PM
Author:squawks

** This stone has a girdle that''s not faceted (that matter much?) and has very little inclusions on the report. The HCA score is also only 1.5 - not as good as the scores from the two above.
Of these 3, I''d likely favor stone #1. Stone #3 is a bit deeper than I prefer. Stone #2 may be equally lovely to Stone #1, but I prefer #1 because I prefer the crown/pav combo and because the grading report was done after the cut grading changes, so you know it''s still an AGS0.

Regarding your statement I highlighted - it''s not correct. The HCA doesn''t work the way you''re interpreting it. When udner 2.0, a lower score isn''t "better" than a higher score. It would be more accurate to think of the HCA as pass/fail......anything under a 2.0 is a pass. No further distinction can be made from the placement of the score.
 
aljdewey - thanks for the clarification!

One of my biggest concern is what I've read others posting claiming that SI diamonds have a chance of becoming "cloudy". As both of the 1.55 ct diamonds are SI1, I am concerned - the online store do not have these diamonds in-hand - they will have to call the vendor for any questions/clarifications (they can't let me contact them directly).

Stone 1 has an inclusion in the diamond which appears beneath the center of the crown. I was wondering what you would think - would these inclusions be visible to the naked eye without a loupe? If it's hard to distinguish in the diamond I wouldn't be worried.

sqsstone1.jpg
 
And here would be stone #2 (has inclusions in the pavilion it appears.

sqsstone2.jpg
 
Date: 4/27/2006 3:59:49 PM
Author: aljdewey

Of these 3, I''d likely favor stone #1... I prefer #1 because I prefer the crown/pav combo and because the grading report was done after the cut grading changes
Ditto. Another vote for #1. Stone #1 has the sweetest CA PA combo and it is an AGS 0 based on "light performance", big plus.

You say that they are all priced the same, so I do not see the value in #3. Going up to VS1, but less than 1.5ct, and deeper with less spread. Thus, #3 would be my least preferred.

I''m an Si1 I color man myself, but if I did it all over again, I would consider J for more size (like you have done). Others may disagree, but I can only see the world thru my eyes. I would feel very confident that an AGS Si1 is completely eye clean (at least to me). You make a great point about the location of the inclusions in #1 vs #2, but that is not enough to get me off #1. The labs usually take into consideration inclusion location in their clarity rating, so while the inclusions for #1 are admittedly not in a desirable location, it is probably not that bad.

It looks like you have done your homework, and have found the right balance in the 4 Cs for the price you wish to spend.
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#1 looks like a tremendous find and appears to be well priced. It may not last too long, or I have even found this vendor to raise the price on a smart stone.

Sincerely,
David
 
Thanks, David! (also thanks again, aljdewey) - I placed an order on the first stone. I'm hoping that all goes well and upon receiving it (set in ring) I hope that it doesn't look murky or anything as others have made me frightened of SI's.
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Didn't spend too much time on the setting/band, though - but who cares, my head hurts enough already - I'll let her upgrade/reset it if she wants!
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Date: 4/27/2006 3:59:49 PM
Author: aljdewey

Date: 4/27/2006 2:21:23 PM
Author:squawks

** This stone has a girdle that''s not faceted (that matter much?) and has very little inclusions on the report. The HCA score is also only 1.5 - not as good as the scores from the two above.
Of these 3, I''d likely favor stone #1. Stone #3 is a bit deeper than I prefer. Stone #2 may be equally lovely to Stone #1, but I prefer #1 because I prefer the crown/pav combo and because the grading report was done after the cut grading changes, so you know it''s still an AGS0.

Regarding your statement I highlighted - it''s not correct. The HCA doesn''t work the way you''re interpreting it. When udner 2.0, a lower score isn''t ''better'' than a higher score. It would be more accurate to think of the HCA as pass/fail......anything under a 2.0 is a pass. No further distinction can be made from the placement of the score.
Ditto (stone) and ditto (hca). Of course curiosity makes me want to know the minor facet details to help seperate further optical characteristics but Alj has pointed to the best of the lot. A 35.x/40.6 combo isn''t too bad either.

Peace,
 
Thanks for the input, Rhino! 3 cheers for stone #1 makes it easier on my mind regarding the purchase!
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Date: 4/27/2006 6:14:54 PM
Author: Rhino

Ditto (stone) and ditto (hca). Of course curiosity makes me want to know the minor facet details to help seperate further optical characteristics but Alj has pointed to the best of the lot.
Peace,
Hi Rhino,
The AGS DQD is dated Jan 10, 06. I understand that AGS just added the Star and LG lengths to the cert a couple weeks ago. So GIA actually ''beat them to the punch'' of making these figures available on the report.

While AGS certainly considered this minor facet details as a component of their cut grade, ("0" in this case) these figures were not available to the trade or consumer.

That''s my interpretation, is this correct?

Sincerely,
David
 
Date: 4/28/2006 12:18:38 PM
Author: Houseparty

Date: 4/27/2006 6:14:54 PM
Author: Rhino

Ditto (stone) and ditto (hca). Of course curiosity makes me want to know the minor facet details to help seperate further optical characteristics but Alj has pointed to the best of the lot.
Peace,
Hi Rhino,
The AGS DQD is dated Jan 10, 06. I understand that AGS just added the Star and LG lengths to the cert a couple weeks ago. So GIA actually ''beat them to the punch'' of making these figures available on the report.

While AGS certainly considered this minor facet details as a component of their cut grade, (''0'' in this case) these figures were not available to the trade or consumer.

That''s my interpretation, is this correct?

Sincerely,
David
Hi Dave,

Not that I can see. I have a stone just came in (1.84ct H SI1) which has a report dated Feb 2006 and no star and lower girdle info on it.
 
I just got a 0.496ct G, VS2 stone dated March 2006 and it doesn''t have any of that info either, Strange.
Anyway, I got to give the vote to stone number 1 as well. But mostly for the slightly larger table than stone 2, better spread. It does seem a bit out of round for an AGS000. As an added bonus, it is the largest out of the lot!
 
Dang! I think I may be getting that uneasy feeling I usually get after making a big purchase, such as "will it be good and/or stand up to its grades/certificate?" among other things.
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I''m also feeling a little lousy after stumbling through GoodOldGold, which has extraordinary information on quite a bit of their diamonds, including GemEx, Sarin, Helium, and Gem Advisor reports!
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I purchased my stone through BlueNile, so all they had were GIA/AGSL reports and from those reports I used the HCA utility to weed out a bit of my contenders...but now in the back of my head it feels somewhat akward that I should have perhaps viewed the diamond in various conditions/lighting (as allowed by GoodOldGold). GOG''s reports look incredibly impressive, including the light performance reports/video.

Well, here''s hoping that the diamond will look fabulous to the amateur once it arrives (it will be set already).
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Date: 4/28/2006 1:20:33 PM
Author: Rhino

Hi Dave,

Not that I can see. I have a stone just came in (1.84ct H SI1) which has a report dated Feb 2006 and no star and lower girdle info on it.
Hi,
Ed at AGS told me this info was added "a couple weeks ago", so that would be docs after mid-April. We''ll find out if I got a ''scoop'', or bad information...

Sincerely,
David
 
Date: 4/28/2006 5:52:49 PM
Author: squawks
Dang! I think I may be getting that uneasy feeling I usually get after making a big purchase, such as ''will it be good and/or stand up to its grades/certificate?'' among other things.
15.gif


I''m also feeling a little lousy after stumbling through GoodOldGold, which has extraordinary information on quite a bit of their diamonds, including GemEx, Sarin, Helium, and Gem Advisor reports!
7.gif
I purchased my stone through BlueNile, so all they had were GIA/AGSL reports and from those reports I used the HCA utility to weed out a bit of my contenders...but now in the back of my head it feels somewhat akward that I should have perhaps viewed the diamond in various conditions/lighting (as allowed by GoodOldGold). GOG''s reports look incredibly impressive, including the light performance reports/video.

Well, here''s hoping that the diamond will look fabulous to the amateur once it arrives (it will be set already).
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Hi,
Rhino at Gold Old Gold is a terrific contributor to PS, and seems like a super guy.
We love him.
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His firm adds great value by identifying outstanding stones. No sorting thru thousands of stones, no guesswork, no "hoping", and their products are fairly priced for the unmatched services they provide.

I think you have a terrific find, so relax. As a 7 week "veteran" of PS, this looks like one of the best buys I have seen here...

Sincerely,
David
 
Date: 4/28/2006 6:30:04 PM
Author: Houseparty



Date: 4/28/2006 1:20:33 PM
Author: Rhino

Hi Dave,

Not that I can see. I have a stone just came in (1.84ct H SI1) which has a report dated Feb 2006 and no star and lower girdle info on it.
Hi,
Ed at AGS told me this info was added ''a couple weeks ago'', so that would be docs after mid-April. We''ll find out if I got a ''scoop'', or bad information...

Sincerely,
David
Hi,
I avoided PS for a couple months (need to keep the day job you know)...

Anyway I see that the AGS certs now feature star and lower girdle lengths, so looks like Ed gave us the scoop:

http://www.whiteflash.com/hearts_arrows/A-Cut-Above-H-A-cut-diamond-2415715.htm

And look GIA, "no rounding to the five", a 76 lower girdle...

Sincerely,
David
 
Date: 7/6/2006 8:10:28 PM
Author: Houseparty

Hi,
I avoided PS for a couple months (need to keep the day job you know)...

Anyway I see that the AGS certs now feature star and lower girdle lengths, so looks like Ed gave us the scoop:

http://www.whiteflash.com/hearts_arrows/A-Cut-Above-H-A-cut-diamond-2415715.htm

And look GIA, 'no rounding to the five', a 76 lower girdle...

Sincerely,
David
Welcome David
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This post will be of little use to most people who read it, but I wanted to note the following for anyone who is familiar with AGS & MSU research:

AGS and GIA are both putting lower girdle 'length' on their grading reports as opposed to lower girdle 'height;' which is used in DiamCalc software and in the lab at AGS. This might take some familiar with past AGS studies by surprise: AGS made that decision so direct comparisons could be made between reports by consumers (although GIA does round as noted).

'Height’ is 1-2% greater than ‘length’ in typical configurations. Example: 80% 'length' (used on grading reports) correlates to 81.5% 'height' (DiamCalc and AGS research). The 76 LG% on the report you indicated would translate to a 77.8% LG height.
 
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