Tips for selecting an oval shape

[MrsT]

My DD has asked me for some help. I think an engagement is on the near horizon. She went from cushion to oval and round. She is going for the largest size they can afford because of large fingers. Her ring size is 8. She felt a 1ct cushion was too small for her hand so the hope is an oval may look larger on her hand.

Can an oval look larger than a round?

We are planning a trip to NYC very soon and I want to know what to look for when considering an oval shape.

DD/BF have said they want a 1.5ct stone but may have to go smaller. The problem is she''s in the diamond district often and claims she can find this size for 6k. I''m sure she can but she''s not being careful about her selection.
In the end she''ll do her own thing, but since they asked for my help I''m more than glad to pitch in.

(PS - I learned so much from the forum when I was buying an upgrade about 2 years ago. I was really nervous back then. I''m much more confident with the process as long as it''s a round stone we''re talking about.)

I''m hoping to be able to learn how to pick a beautiful oval. I''m not sure I know how to avoid the bow-tie. And, what is a good ratio to look for? How about a good combo for the table and depth?

Are there some clear cut parameters to look for? I was thinking about buying the IS and AS but that''s too much money together. Can you see me pulling out an IS in the diamond district? I think that''s when my help will suddenly be no longer needed!

Thanks

 

[Lorelei]

Yes, it is said an oval can look large for it's weight, so it can be an excellent choice in that respect. I would recommend that your DD either contacts Mark at Engagementringsdirect, or if she can get to Long Island, check out Good old Gold, both these vendors have a good rep for fancy shapes.

Ovals can't really be judged by the numbers, I will give you a chart you can use as a guide, but do use as a guide only, otherwise you could miss out on some lovely diamonds. The best judge are your own eyes in the end.

Here is the chart - http://diamonds.pricescope.com/fnc3.asp

There are things to consider also like the actual shape of the oval, longer and thinner, shorter and fatter etc. Here is a handy shape selector you can use. http://www.gemappraisers.com/shapePickerNew.asp

Also regarding bow ties, I don't think you can avoid them altogether in this shape, but they can be minimised, so a trusted vendor and your own eyes are the best aid.

Here is a useful page which covers bow ties and other shape tips.

http://www.goodoldgold.com/ShapeTutorials/ShapeTips1/

 

[MrsT]

Thanks Lorelei for suggesting GOG. I have DD checking out their website.

Thank for the links! This should help.

 

[MrsT]

Well, I''ve read the articles and have visited the AGA fancy cut advisor. I''ve learned that the Crown Height criteria is rarely posted by vendors and isn''t shown on the GIA certificates either so that leaves me with very little to go on.

I found an oval on the James Allen website. This doesn''t appear to have a strong bowtie. Am I on the right track?

I''m hoping to get some opinions for or against this particular stone. It seems pretty good to me. I wasn''t sure how to link the diamond. I tried attaching a file that shows the picture. Hope it works.

If not, her is the link:


http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1161413.asp

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 7/13/2008 7:21:08 AM
Author: Mrs.T
Well, I've read the articles and have visited the AGA fancy cut advisor. I've learned that the Crown Height criteria is rarely posted by vendors and isn't shown on the GIA certificates either so that leaves me with very little to go on.

I found an oval on the James Allen website. This doesn't appear to have a strong bowtie. Am I on the right track?

I'm hoping to get some opinions for or against this particular stone. It seems pretty good to me. I wasn't sure how to link the diamond. I tried attaching a file that shows the picture. Hope it works.

If not, her is the link:


http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1161413.asp

Don't worry too much about the crown height etc, it can be good to know, but isn't a guarantee of a great performing diamond, look at each aspect of the diamond, and if you have a photo as you do, so much the better! I think it looks really promising! When JA open tomorrow, ask them to look at the diamond for you, if it shows much in the way of a bowtie, and if it is eyeclean to your standards.

 

[MrsT]

Yes, I think I''ll do that. There is one other that is less money. Can''t figure out why.

http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1137167.asp

I''ll ask about both.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Mrs.T

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 7/13/2008 7:42:17 AM
Author: Mrs.T
Yes, I think I''ll do that. There is one other that is less money. Can''t figure out why.

http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/F-SI1-Ideal-Cut-Oval-Diamond-1137167.asp

I''ll ask about both.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Mrs.T

The second one doesn''t look as good to my eyes going by the photo, that could be the reason why as maybe the cut quality isn''t as good...The good folk at JA will be able to advise you as to which is best.

 

[kcoursolle]

Another great way to give her the finger coverage she needs is to "halo" the stone. Here are a couple of beautiful settings that would make a 1 carat stone look quite a bit larger and look great on her hand. They can probably be made to accomodate any shape :

http://www.jamesallen.com/products/item_294-1129_build.asp?module=setting

http://www.jamesallen.com/products/item_294-2033_build.asp?module=setting

 

[MrsT]

K: Yes, she wants a halo design! She works right around the corner from Leone Mege.

I sent an email and got an impersonal response back. Is that normal? I was hoping she could stop in and see in person what his settings look like before we settle on anything else.

We like the "airline" around the halo which makes the diamond stand out. Leon makes this also. All I know is you have to be careful with micro pave. It can look rather dull in some cases.

Here is a photo of a ring she fell in love with:


http://www.firenzejewels.com/diamonds/info/18-Engagement%20Rings-37-3690-000-Lady-s-.72ct-diamond-18k-white-gold-engagement-ring-mounting-000-&CFID=935235&CFTOKEN=936ad49db80a58c1-169CFBA2-3048-72D2-BFD4AF8725A3F1B7.html

This style was good for her hand size.

Anyway we had so much fun!

 

[MrsT]

I''m getting confused. I hope some experts are reading this and can help clear a few things up in my mind.

I''m following the guideline of trying to find a TABLE between 55 - 60 / DEPTH between 59 - 63.0 per the AGA chart but I know that''s not enough to go by when picking by the numbers.


I''m studying many stones that came up on the cut search as well as vendor websites and found characteristics to puzzle me.


1.Table larger than depth percent. If the table % is larger than the depth% this is a shallow stone and it will do what to the
beauty?
Example: T= 58 and D= 56.3

These measurements fall under the category of 1A in the AGA Cut Chart but somehow it doesn''t seem like a good combo.
I know I need to know about the crown and pavaillion angles etc., but the majority of vendors do not post this info.
Will this diamond appear larger (a good thing)? Or will the shallow depth effect the light performance or have a negative
effect I''m not aware of?

2. Deeper than 1A - 1B grade .If the diamond I pictured above seems to look like it has minimal bowtie effect, what can I
expect if this particular stone seems deep. The depth falls into the 2B category. Will this greatly effect the performance?
Example: T= 56 and D= 65.1


3. Medium Blue Fluorescence. An oval I find may fall into the 1A-1B category but has medium blue fluorescence. I read this
produces a cloudy effect- not something I could live with. Is it an issue with fancy shapes?


4.Very thick - extremely thick girdles. I would like to think that I learned that this would have some negative effect
on the performance of the diamond and I should avoid this characteristic.
Many ovals start to look good and then I see the girdle is extremely thick.


Hope someone can help with some of these questions.

Thanks.

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 7/14/2008 10:39:55 AM
Author: Mrs.T
I'm getting confused. I hope some experts are reading this and can help clear a few things up in my mind.

I'm following the guideline of trying to find a TABLE between 55 - 60 / DEPTH between 59 - 63.0 per the AGA chart but I know that's not enough to go by when picking by the numbers.

Use the numbers or charts as a guide only, otherwise it will be too limiting.


I'm studying many stones that came up on the cut search as well as vendor websites and found characteristics to puzzle me.


1.Table larger than depth percent. If the table % is larger than the depth% this is a shallow stone and it will do what to the
beauty?
Example: T= 58 and D= 56.3

The experts seem to say that preferably you want the table to be smaller than the depth, it is hard to say without photos or ASET as to how the diamond will look unfortunately and what effect this will have, some believe that it could make a diamond look glassy, but you would need pics and ASET to be able to tell for sure if it is an issue.

These measurements fall under the category of 1A in the AGA Cut Chart but somehow it doesn't seem like a good combo.
I know I need to know about the crown and pavaillion angles etc., but the majority of vendors do not post this info.
Will this diamond appear larger (a good thing)? Or will the shallow depth effect the light performance or have a negative
effect I'm not aware of? Don't worry about the crown and pavilion angles, they aren't as crucial as they are with round diamonds, most useful are photos and ASET.

2. Deeper than 1A - 1B grade .If the diamond I pictured above seems to look like it has minimal bowtie effect, what can I
expect if this particular stone seems deep. The depth falls into the 2B category. Will this greatly effect the performance?
Example: T= 56 and D= 65.1 The diamond could still be fine, depth percentage doesn't always indicate spread in a fancy shape, it is weight distribution that is important, again you can't judge without photos.


3. Medium Blue Fluorescence. An oval I find may fall into the 1A-1B category but has medium blue fluorescence. I read this
produces a cloudy effect- not something I could live with. Is it an issue with fancy shapes? Medium blue fluorescence should be absolutely fine and not a problem, it is only rarely strong to very strong blue which can have a negative effect, and this is most uncommon anyway - no worries!


4.Very thick - extremely thick girdles. I would like to think that I learned that this would have some negative effect
on the performance of the diamond and I should avoid this characteristic.
Many ovals start to look good and then I see the girdle is extremely thick. Some fancy shapes can have more of a girdle variance, but look at the diamond as a whole, rather than dismiss it out of hand on the girdle measurement. You may want to be wary of very thin/ extremely thin if that crops up, but get an expert to check for a potential durability issue.


Hope someone can help with some of these questions.
Thanks.

Hopefully this will help until one of the experts can chime in! Do only use the numbers as a guide, as you could miss out on some beautiful diamonds otherwise! It can be challenging, but look outside of the numbers given, they are not meant to be used as a strict guide, and work with vendors who can provide detailed photos and ASET, also let them know what you are looking for, as they may be able to find you a lovely stone through their contacts. For example, Mark at www.engagementringsdirect.com has an excellent eye for fancy shapes, he can find virtually anything as he is in the heart of the diamond district.

 

[Deelight]

Date: 7/13/2008 8:25:11 PM
Author: Mrs.T
K: Yes, she wants a halo design! She works right around the corner from Leone Mege.


I sent an email and got an impersonal response back. Is that normal? I was hoping she could stop in and see in person what his settings look like before we settle on anything else.


We like the ''airline'' around the halo which makes the diamond stand out. Leon makes this also. All I know is you have to be careful with micro pave. It can look rather dull in some cases.

I don''t think he is the best email communicator my FF sent him an email a little while ago and felt like that Leon was not listening to what he was really after, so he will try one more time and then call him. I have heard he is better to deal with in person though if you and your daughter are close I would suggest making an appointment when you have the stone .