Thin Girdle and Bezel Setting

[simplysplendid]

Hi,

I brought my diamond (with a thin girdle) to a jeweler to be set into a ring and I was considering the bezel setting. This is what I heard from the jeweler-- He does not recommend bezel setting for a thin girdle. According to him, to do a bezel setting for a diamond, the setting has to be done first and the diamond is then "pushed" into the setting. This will in turn put stress on the girdle and may chip/break thin girdles.

I know this is the complete opposite of what we heard so far -- that bezel settings will protect thin girdles. Is there any experts out there who will know for sure? Are there anyone out there who has a bezel setting done and finds the diamond chipped at the girdle when the diamond is taken out for resetting?

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

There is always a risk with any type of setting.
From the jewellers perspective setting somone elses stone with no extra margin to cover losses is probably bad business.

If the stone is round then the risk is very low.

If it is princess then I (as a jeweller) would ask you to take it somewhere else or at least beg you to insure it and sign a waiver

 

[simplysplendid]

Hi Garry, thanks.. am I right to say that the bezel setting has probably chipped many a diamonds and it''s just that we are not aware of it since it is covered by the bezel? Wouldn''t then the prong setting be "safer" since any chips would be visible?

 

[Londonchris]

There are a couple of different types of bezel which require a slightly different setting style.
#1 is how was described to you.This is generally a bezel that has a very low "wall" if any.The setting is drilled out till the stone almost fits,then a groove "bearing" is cut around the setting just below the surface and the stone is "clicked" into place and then tightened.

#2 is a bezel that has visible "walls" abit like this \_/ ,the stone is then made to fit snug inside the setting first just below the surface,and then the metal is pushed or rubbed over the edge of the stone.

#1 is the riskier of the two types.The jeweller is playing it safe,though he may well have a go if he`s certain that he has warned you and is blame free if something goes wrong.
I`m sure there are chipped stones that have been "covered up" by bezels,but the damage would be small and most likely on coloured stones.
Trouble with diamonds is that any damage (usually) messes up a facet or two which plays havoc with the light reflection and so sticks out like a sore thumb.

 

[simplysplendid]

Thanks Chris, for the information!