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Step cuts - what to look for in person

daneshpastry

daneshpastry

Shiny_Rock
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Joined
Jan 27, 2014
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After reading the wonderfully informative threads on PS, I have learned that "fancy" cuts are always to be inspected in person rather than buying blindly online (well, going on numbers). So my question is - when I'm looking at a fancy cut in person, namely an emerald cut, what exactly should I be looking for? Given that I'm doubting most jewellery stores have scopes and whatnot...

Many thanks in advance. For more information, I will be ordering a stone from Ritani which will be shipped to a local shop for me to inspect.
 
It's not an easy thing you are asking. I can do it, but it would take an hour to put together, and I don't have the time today.

You can take a look at GOG's videos and see if you can find any emerald cut videos they've done in the meantime.

When are you looking to buy?
 
I love the youtube GOG videos-esp on the EC! Plus put emerald cut into the search bar here and read through the threads, so informative!

Also- Where will you be looking in person? Most jewelers, unless they are in a diamond district won't have the exact size, color, clarity you might be looking for (just a note before you visit).
 
Then I check crown height, does it have a reasonable crown height or is it flat looking from the side view?

Is the overall look pleasing?
Is it eyeclean?
Is the overall look bright or dull, glassy or sparky?
From there it is all about patterns.
Start from the outside in:
Does everything look symmetrical?
Is the outline pleasing?
Are the windmills even and pleasing to look at?
Are contrast patterns visible and are they even and pleasing? Not to much dark area?


Then start moving it. Does it dance? Is it lively?
Does it look pleasing when moving?

Repeat in multiple lighting environments and up close, 1/2 arm length and full arm length.
Contrast patterns will be less visible as distance increases but you should still see the flashes the virtual facets create.
 
Many thanks for the responses.

I read the p3 article and it's a bit over my head, but will do my best to judge. I will definitely look at all the videos, etc.

I'm looking to buy soonish. I guess another important factor I didn't mention is that it will be quite a small stone - around .35 from what I've looked at so far... not sure if this makes any difference. I'd rather buy the best quality I can get vs size.
 
Shoot for G-H VS2 and ex/ex for the polish and symmetry. Can go to VG on polish. Probably Symmetry on that size too, but on case by case.

As for patterning and other factors. You have to train your eyes.

Go on James Allen and stare at the 1 carat ECs for an hour. Pick the ones you like BY SIGHT for performance (nothing else, not color, not clarity) and post them here. We can give you feedback on the good and the bad.

ALso post some that you think are bad.

That way we can see what your eyes are telling you and help you interpret what you see.
 
Gypsy|1391645522|3608782 said:
Shoot for G-H VS2 and ex/ex for the polish and symmetry. Can go to VG on polish. Probably Symmetry on that size too, but on case by case.

As for patterning and other factors. You have to train your eyes.

Go on James Allen and stare at the 1 carat ECs for an hour. Pick the ones you like BY SIGHT for performance (nothing else, not color, not clarity) and post them here. We can give you feedback on the good and the bad.

ALso post some that you think are bad.

That way we can see what your eyes are telling you and help you interpret what you see.
Click to expand...

I've spent some time looking at the 1 carats on JA....here are my thoughts, I appreciate your feedback.

1. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.00-carat-h-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-197053
This one looks nice to me. It appears to show more contrast.

2. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.00-carat-j-color-vs2-clarity-sku-139925
This one is not as appealing. It's more difficult to see each facet.

Gah...this is hard. The biggest difference I see between them is some show more black areas than others and some are more contrast-y between the black/white areas. I have no idea which is preferred(?) :blackeye:
 
daneshpastry|1391700802|3609223 said:
I've spent some time looking at the 1 carats on JA....here are my thoughts, I appreciate your feedback.

1. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.00-carat-h-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-197053
This one looks nice to me. It appears to show more contrast. It does show more contrast borderline too much, when you look at the side view notice how the crown above the girdle is low. Too low.

2. http://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/1.00-carat-j-color-vs2-clarity-sku-139925
This one is not as appealing. It's more difficult to see each facet.
This one has practically no windmills notice how it has little small and med. sparkles as you move it, crown height is better into the acceptable range.

Gah...this is hard. The biggest difference I see between them is some show more black areas than others and some are more contrast-y between the black/white areas. I have no idea which is preferred(?) :blackeye:
Click to expand...
 
Yikes I hear you. I'm going to see a 1.25 EC today. I believe it's H VS2. I'll get the GIA number and let you know if I have any insights from the visit. I totally agree..,diamond shopping esp for fancies is hard! I don't want to make a mistake again.
 
Well apparently everything I thought is backwards! Thanks for the info.

I'm starting to think maybe I should go with a radiant cut...EC's seem very finicky.
 
daneshpastry|1391705278|3609266 said:
Well apparently everything I thought is backwards! Thanks for the info.

I'm starting to think maybe I should go with a radiant cut...EC's seem very finicky.
Click to expand...
somewhat but when you see a good one it will stand out even if you have only seen a few in person.
 
I don't think trying to pick a well cut radiant is any easier. It is still considered a fancy cut where there are no hard and fast rules.
 
I feel your frustration. It's a lot of info to process. I'm following this thread and others on step cuts to learn as much as I can so I can feel somewhat prepared to buy in a yr or so. If you're set on a step cut, settling on another fancy cut probably won't satisfy what you really want, but if it's all the same then I guess it doesn't matter. I would love to eventually have one of each cut but not realistic. I find myself drawn to step cuts again and again, so that's what I'm leaning towards myself.
 
daneshpastry-don't give up! Between PS'ers help and a good jeweler (there are so many great vendors on here to choose from), you have the support you need!

Redroze-let us know how it goes-how exciting!
 
Take a deep breath. Go to GOG website. Watch the videos.

Then go on JA again. And focus on brightness. You want stones where the facets go on and off, but MAINLY stay on. And where even if SOME of the facets are dark at some point MOST are still bright.

Post those. We'll tell you what we see. So you can learn. Karl's comments are to help you understand what you see. Take them as training. Not criticism. We are training your eyes.

You are doing well. YOU REALLY ARE.

We are here to help you. It might take a week, but when we're done, you'll be ready to go.
 
I know...it's so much easier to go with a round. But on my way there, I realized I want something bigger and with more presence, yet not too blingy. A classic style I can wear 'til I'm 80. Something understated. In some lighting, even my "good" cut round sparkles like crazy. I want something more subdued where I can be in a meeting and it won't be distracting. So EC is it for me.

So I saw the 1.25...it was a drop in so they didn't know I was coming, and the woman I am in contact with wasn't there. So I didn't realize it was already set in a ring. Of course when I drop in with my husband we'll examine it loose. I didn't even ask for the GIA number because I didn't think it was worthwhile to have that discussion yet on price. It was a drop in as my husband said to make sure I want an emerald cut...that it's what I really wanted. The setting was an EC in the centre with two trillion side stones. I compared it to my round and there was a very visible size difference but it didn't look ridiculous on my 4.25 finger. Very nice and even steps. Didn't see any inclusions... it was a beauty. it was a 1.25 H VS1...the lady had said it would qualify as VG cut but I don't know any other stats yet. I'm set on getting one as long as it's within budget.

The thing that strikes me is that diamonds are sooo small and tiny in person. I'll need to view it through a loupe for sure. It's not the mega big photos that you see online.

Sorry to hijack...that's the end of my story. I feel your pain. I'm worried I will make the wrong choice. I'll post here on PS once I get the GIA and price.
 
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