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security and workmanship of setting?

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latebloomer

Rough_Rock
Trade
Joined
Aug 4, 2009
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27
hey all,

I''m picking up my rings today and I''m wondering if anyone has any pointers on how to check the workmanship of the setting as well as making sure the diamond is secure? (It''s a Tiffany setting for a round brilliant solitaire). I''d like to make sure all is good before I leave the store.

Thank so much,
 
Hi latebloomer,

When you get it appraised your appraiser should do this as part of the inspection but there are several things you can do yourself. Hold the piece up to your ear and tap it with your finger. Listen for a slight rattle. Hold it in one hand and put a fingernail of the other against the girdle and see if you can move it. Look at the prongs sideways, parallel to the girdle with a loupe. Hold it up to the light. You shouldn’t be able to see any light passing between the prongs and the stone.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
 
I always start at the bottom and work up.

Is the bottom of the ring overly thin?
Any signs of it having been cut and resized?
Is the finger hole round and even?
Is the head centered on the shank and strait up and down.
Does the head and shank flow together?
Are there any pits that may indicate defects in the metal? (porosity)
If the polish even and well done?
Are the surfaces properly shaped and not wavy?
Are there globs of solder or is it well blended together?
Are the diamonds level?
Are the prongs even?
Then look at the top is the diamond centered and the prongs properly spaced?
Check the polish again from that angle.

The check the prongs and diamond security using the procedure outlined by Neil.

If available I also like to look at the ring under a microscope and take a toothpick and try and move the diamonds to see if they are loose.
I also look for porosity under the scope.
 
I had mine sent to Neil. LOL. Highly recommend him.
 
Wow, these were excellent tips - thank you so much for those pointers. Very helpful!
 
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