Ring Design Question - Why the Donut?

[Haven]

Just curious . . .

I''m not sure of the real name for this design element, but why do so many rings have the little round "donut" beneath the culet of the diamond? I understand that it''s necessary if you don''t have a basket and the diamond is set low, but when we were searching for my ering there were so many rings with high-set diamonds that did not have this little donut, SO why include it at all? Is this merely a design element?

The donut was one of the biggest considerations when we were choosing my ering, I wanted something that could sit flush against an eternity band.

My FI contacted Leon Mege about having the ring below custom made without the little donut, but LM told FI that it was a design choice and he wouldn''t make it without the donut. Why? And does this element have a real name? (I''m quite sure it isn''t "donut"!)

 

[kev1234]

Makes you wonder how "custom" his designs are.

 

[surfgirl]

I''m not sure of Leon''s rationale but I''d assume, looking at that photo, that the donut adds strength to the setting and perhaps it helps the shank to not twist over years of wear and tear? Like a stabilizer of sorts? I''m guessing here. That said, I dont think on your finger it will make a wband look noticeably far away from the ering...

 

[strmrdr]

allows thinner prongs and supports them in high designs.
Tiffany style prongs would be much wider and thicker.

 

[denverappraiser]

Gold and platinum aren’t really very strong materials and under the right circumstances can bend rather easily. Imagine that piece with out the donut (seating ring is the correct name for it but donut is probably more descriptive for most people). Notice how long the prongs are from the very tip to the point where they join together below the stone. For a 2 carat stone this is probably 7 or 8 millimeters. This is a lot of leverage if you snag the tip and the prong will bend back right at the bottom thereby jeopardizing your setting. Now look at the one with the ring in it and notice the distance from the ring to the prong tip. It’s probably more like 2mm. This is WAY better. If you’ve ever played with levers you notice that this problem gets worse exponentially so being 4x as long is more than 4x as bad. Leon's right to refuse to make it that way, it wouldn't be a secure setting.

On the classic ‘Tiffany’ style settings, you’ll notice that the prongs get very thick at the bottom for this same reason. It works but it’s a less delicate look and it also sets the stones higher above the finger because there needs to be room for all of that extra metal down below.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[nebe]

Date: 9/30/2007 12:31:21 PM
Author: kev1234
Makes you wonder how ''custom'' his designs are.

That''s what I''ve been wondering since he seems so gun-ho on doing everything how HE wants and doesn''t want to do replicas or settings exactly how a customer wants.

I''d really like to use him because the work seems (through pictures) flawless, but I want my setting how I want it, no questions asked. Maybe that makes me a diva, but come on now, I''m sure as heck not going to pay 5K for a custom setting that''s not EXACTLY what I tell them.



...but that''s just me.

 

[kcoursolle]

Leon settings really aren''t best for people who want to wear a wedding ring next to them. He doesn''t recommend this and prefers to have his rings worn on separate hands. This isn''t practical for everyone and he might not be right for you as a designer. You might want to try other amazing craftsman like MM or Maytal or others who would be more willing to fit your needs.

 

[MoonWater]

Date: 9/30/2007 1:46:44 PM
Author: nebe

Date: 9/30/2007 12:31:21 PM

Author: kev1234

Makes you wonder how 'custom' his designs are.

That's what I've been wondering since he seems so gun-ho on doing everything how HE wants and doesn't want to do replicas or settings exactly how a customer wants.

I'd really like to use him because the work seems (through pictures) flawless, but I want my setting how I want it, no questions asked. Maybe that makes me a diva, but come on now, I'm sure as heck not going to pay 5K for a custom setting that's not EXACTLY what I tell them.




...but that's just me.

Well the replica thing seems to be an ethical (and sometimes legal) issue. So I can't blame him there.

 

[Harriet]

Nor can I. Also, Leon or not, a jeweller has more experience than I do. I''d want her/his input, especially on security issues.

 

[shimmer]

Have you checked out Precision Set? I haven't seen any IRL but I am totally loving them online, especially how well the bands fit w/ the erings

link

 

[Hera]

Date: 9/30/2007 1:46:44 PM
Author: nebe

Date: 9/30/2007 12:31:21 PM
Author: kev1234
Makes you wonder how ''custom'' his designs are.

That''s what I''ve been wondering since he seems so gun-ho on doing everything how HE wants and doesn''t want to do replicas or settings exactly how a customer wants.

I''d really like to use him because the work seems (through pictures) flawless, but I want my setting how I want it, no questions asked. Maybe that makes me a diva, but come on now, I''m sure as heck not going to pay 5K for a custom setting that''s not EXACTLY what I tell them.



...but that''s just me.

That''s the very difference that will make an artist. There''s a lot of work that can go into a piece of art, work that you cannot see You''re not just paying for his fabrication, but you are paying a premium for him to bring out the best of the diamond. It''s for that very reason that he is so admired for his work. We love his prongs, his meticulous attention to detail. To tell an artist that you want a setting exactly how you want it, no questions asked or to duplicate another''s setting would be incredibly insulting to many artists. They have studied for many years, schooling, hard work etc. and they possess a certain special something that may not be able to be duplicated.

 

[sera]

Date: 9/30/2007 4:24:58 PM
Author: Harriet
Nor can I. Also, Leon or not, a jeweller has more experience than I do. I'd want her/his input, especially on security issues.

Exactly. Certain design elements have structural issues... I know what I like design-wise, but Leon knows design and structure- gotta trust his expertise.

Even when I get my hair cut, my stylist will flat out tell me, "No, I'm not going to do that." So, I may be disappointed but I know that is the right decision he has made for me because he knows my hair and what styles will work and what won't. I would much rather not have a style I wanted than to have a style I don't. Years ago when my dad had a painting business, homeowners would insist on a particular color for their house. My dad would advise them when it was not on a little paint chip and on their entire house, the color would be a lot darker or brighter or warmer or whatever than they thought it would be. They would not trust his expert opinion until they had a house that was a lot darker than they thought it would be.

If we don't have the expertise, it's in our best interest to trust someone who does have it.

ETA: That's one of his rings I'm considering for a setting. I love it. I haven't gotten a quote on it yet- still trying to make a final choice between a couple of his and a Ritani.

 

[Joolskie]

Haven... there are many setting that have a donut. I think that it is a structural aspect and not aesthetic. For delicate shanks and prongs, the donut provides the necessary strength to hold everything together.

My setting has a donut. It looks much bigger in the photos than in real life. My wedding band fits fine next to it. The rings don''t touch each other but they are close enough. It doesn''t bother me at all. Here is a link to my setting...

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/i-love-my-new-setting.63020/

I think that the donut appears more pronounced in the photos on Leon''s site. In real life, the donut is probably more understated.

 

[Skippy123]

Date: 9/30/2007 4:36:57 PM
Author: shimmer
Have you checked out Precision Set? I haven''t seen any IRL but I am totally loving them online, especially how well the bands fit w/ the erings

link

Shimmer, I have seen the Precision Set irl and they are beautiful and flawless imo.

 

[Haven]

Date: 9/30/2007 1:37:32 PM
Author: denverappraiser
Gold and platinum aren’t really very strong materials and under the right circumstances can bend rather easily. Imagine that piece with out the donut (seating ring is the correct name for it but donut is probably more descriptive for most people). Notice how long the prongs are from the very tip to the point where they join together below the stone. For a 2 carat stone this is probably 7 or 8 millimeters. This is a lot of leverage if you snag the tip and the prong will bend back right at the bottom thereby jeopardizing your setting. Now look at the one with the ring in it and notice the distance from the ring to the prong tip. It’s probably more like 2mm. This is WAY better. If you’ve ever played with levers you notice that this problem gets worse exponentially so being 4x as long is more than 4x as bad. Leon''s right to refuse to make it that way, it wouldn''t be a secure setting.


On the classic ‘Tiffany’ style settings, you’ll notice that the prongs get very thick at the bottom for this same reason. It works but it’s a less delicate look and it also sets the stones higher above the finger because there needs to be room for all of that extra metal down below.


Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA

Professional Appraisals in Denver

Thank you for this very informative response, Mr. Beaty! I was just curious about the seating ring and why it''s sometimes used and sometimes not used, thank you for answering my question. Your levers example makes perfect sense to me because I have a serious interest in biomechanics and levers are the basis of understanding how we apply force to muscles, so great analogy.

And I just want to make it clear that I was in no way questioning Leon''s choice to refuse to make the ring without the seating ring, I was just wondering why he refused to nix it, and why so many engagement rings include a design element that makes it impossible for a wedding band to sit flush against them. (I know this isn''t an issue to some people, but I really want my w-band to sit flush against my ering.)

I think Mr. Mege''s designs are absolutely stunning, and if he thinks something should be a certain way, then that way it should be. All I know about jewelry design is that some rings make me say "ooh, how pretty" and some don''t!

I''m certainly not an expert.

I also already have my ering, I was just curious, but thank you to those of you who recommended other jewelers. I do plan on owning a Leon Mege piece one day, and I certainly won''t interfere much with the design, I trust his amazing eye.

Harriet and Sera--I agree with you completely. I''m a Reading Specialist, so I work with high school students who are reading far below grade level, and I get a lot of challenges from parents about the reading interventions I implement with their students. I know everyone wants the best for their child, but if this is true wouldn''t they trust the professional educator with two advanced degrees in reading and literacy? No--they often bring in articles they found on the Internet about the hottest new trend in education and then ask me why I didn''t invest in the newest $40,000 reading program for their child. Meh.

And Sera--I LOVE this ring, it is absolutely one of the most stunning designs I''ve ever seen. I especially like the surprise stone in the center of the seating ring. I can''t wait to see what you choose!

 

[aljdewey]

Date: 9/30/2007 12:31:21 PM
Author: kev1234
Makes you wonder how ''custom'' his designs are.

While Leon does do ''custom'' work, his primary role is as a designer.......meaning *he* creates the designs, and he has right of refuse on anything he''s not comfortable putting his name on.

When you work with him, you''re buying his name as much as his creation.

There are other jewelers who are *not* designers, and their focus is to breathe life into a customer''s design. That type of custom shop might be better suited to one who has strong preferences.

 

[sera]

Date: 9/30/2007 7:10:00 PM
Author: Haven
Harriet and Sera--I agree with you completely. I''m a Reading Specialist, so I work with high school students who are reading far below grade level, and I get a lot of challenges from parents about the reading interventions I implement with their students. I know everyone wants the best for their child, but if this is true wouldn''t they trust the professional educator with two advanced degrees in reading and literacy? No--they often bring in articles they found on the Internet about the hottest new trend in education and then ask me why I didn''t invest in the newest $40,000 reading program for their child. Meh.


And Sera--I LOVE this ring, it is absolutely one of the most stunning designs I''ve ever seen. I especially like the surprise stone in the center of the seating ring. I can''t wait to see what you choose!

I hear ya on the parent issue... some of them are just out their minds nutty. I work with kids, and sometimes the things the parents say/do cause a perplexed look on my face while thinking, "WHAT the heck are they thinking?!?!" I guess sometimes they just don''t!

I love the swoopy band encircling the diamond... I like some curves and flow rather than all straight edges. I love that the band doesn''t have an "edge"... but I imagine the edge would protect the diamonds more??? I just love the more rounded look. I just love 3-sided pave- I''ve gotta have a pretty side view. BUT, I know it''s not recommended to wear a w-band with it, and I want a band. Soooooo it''s gonna be a WHILE before I decide on something.