diamondhunter111
Rough_Rock
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2013
- Messages
- 24
Hi. A few years ago I organised to get a handmade platinum ring made for my partner as an engagement ring. I had already proposed with a 0.8ct (6mm) stone from Whiteflash F VS1 very nice cut. It didn't quite make their ACA range but it is a beautiful stone and we are both very happy with it. My partner really liked a design that she saw in a jewelers shop and we tried to replicate it. It had "half moon" or "D cut" shoulder stones. I sourced a pair of these of best quality I could but they are hard to come by and the size meant no AGS cert etc. They did not come from Whiteflash.
We have limited access to manufacturing jewellers where I live but I did want to deal with someone in person. I came across a freelance jewellery designer in our area who had manufacturing contacts in Sydney (Australia) where the ring was made. There were issues during the design and manufacture process where I believe the designer suffered from some severe mental health issues. We lost direct communication with him for periods of time which was quite scary as we had already paid him some money. In the end we were quite frankly happy to get any ring at all. It was quite sad on all accounts and put a damper on what I was hoping would be an exciting process for us. I was not happy with the end result. Not really due to design or workmanship but due to the side stones being quite dull in comparison to the centre stone in my opinion. This was not obvious when looking at the loose stones side by side. My partner said she thought it was fine but I think she agrees with me and was just being polite and not wanting to cause a fuss or more expense.
I understand now that these D cut stones aren't ever going to have anything close to the light performance of the centre stone. I believe that his particular pair is quite a shallow cut which makes it worse. Even a slight amount of grease/dirt and they take on a milky appearance next to the centre stone even though it is just as dirty. She wears the ring 24/7.
We now have 3 children and I am finally emotionally ready to revisit this. I want to get it right the second time.
I have gone through some pictures with my partner as well as trying on various rings in jewellery stores. She has a preference for trilogy settings over solitaires.
I have found a local manufacturing jeweller who is comfortable with handmade platinum. I feel like the manufacturing side is more his forte and he is happy to accommodate our wishes when it comes to design and this is where I need help from the forum.
He has offered 2 solutions. Either remake the setting to our requirements and keep the shank, or remake the entire ring. Obviously it is significantly cheaper to just have the setting remade and my partner likes the style of the shank so that is the direction we are heading in. This would mean having enough money to put towards a pair of nice side stones.
I have been looking at many pairs of RBC stones online and reading about the desired proportions of trilogy rings. I am thinking that the size of the setting might be a limiting factor as comfort is very important. We are active people and my partner is worried about ending up with a ring that is bulky or top heavy and might get caught on things. She is looking for something elegant, practical and conservative rather than chunky or blingy. She is size J (about Size 5 in US I believe). It seems that for a 0.8ct centre stone, side stones about 0.3-0.32ct (about 4.3mm minimum) might be about the minimum proportions to avoid the side stone appearing as accessory stones. In this size range it is possible to get ACA or similar grade diamonds. I guess I would aim to get within one colour and similar clarity with the centre stone (E-G, VS1) but most importantly a good cut.
The current setting is about 11.5mm from end to end. With 3 RBC stones 4.3mm, 6mm, 4.3mm the setting will be quite a bit longer - perhaps 14-15mm depending on how close they can be set.
Is this going to be too big for her finger size?
I would be hoping to get a fairly even profile across the setting where they are set about the same height and follow the contour of the top of the finger, rather than having the centre stone set higher. I am hoping this will prevent it from catching on things too to some extent. The style of the basket would probably be pretty much the same as it is currently (see last picture below) but he said he would put two prongs on each end rather than the single curved one. I would ask him to make the prongs as fine as he was comfortable with.
The jeweller said he can accomodate a longer setting by cutting and shortening the band at the bottom and that this would be preferable to grinding back the sides of the band where it joins the setting which might affect the look of the pinched profile. He said that he uses very high quality platinum solder and a join would not be obvious.
I would really appreciate some input regarding our current plan including any ways that others would go about it differently.
Thanks.
We have limited access to manufacturing jewellers where I live but I did want to deal with someone in person. I came across a freelance jewellery designer in our area who had manufacturing contacts in Sydney (Australia) where the ring was made. There were issues during the design and manufacture process where I believe the designer suffered from some severe mental health issues. We lost direct communication with him for periods of time which was quite scary as we had already paid him some money. In the end we were quite frankly happy to get any ring at all. It was quite sad on all accounts and put a damper on what I was hoping would be an exciting process for us. I was not happy with the end result. Not really due to design or workmanship but due to the side stones being quite dull in comparison to the centre stone in my opinion. This was not obvious when looking at the loose stones side by side. My partner said she thought it was fine but I think she agrees with me and was just being polite and not wanting to cause a fuss or more expense.
I understand now that these D cut stones aren't ever going to have anything close to the light performance of the centre stone. I believe that his particular pair is quite a shallow cut which makes it worse. Even a slight amount of grease/dirt and they take on a milky appearance next to the centre stone even though it is just as dirty. She wears the ring 24/7.
We now have 3 children and I am finally emotionally ready to revisit this. I want to get it right the second time.
I have gone through some pictures with my partner as well as trying on various rings in jewellery stores. She has a preference for trilogy settings over solitaires.
I have found a local manufacturing jeweller who is comfortable with handmade platinum. I feel like the manufacturing side is more his forte and he is happy to accommodate our wishes when it comes to design and this is where I need help from the forum.
He has offered 2 solutions. Either remake the setting to our requirements and keep the shank, or remake the entire ring. Obviously it is significantly cheaper to just have the setting remade and my partner likes the style of the shank so that is the direction we are heading in. This would mean having enough money to put towards a pair of nice side stones.
I have been looking at many pairs of RBC stones online and reading about the desired proportions of trilogy rings. I am thinking that the size of the setting might be a limiting factor as comfort is very important. We are active people and my partner is worried about ending up with a ring that is bulky or top heavy and might get caught on things. She is looking for something elegant, practical and conservative rather than chunky or blingy. She is size J (about Size 5 in US I believe). It seems that for a 0.8ct centre stone, side stones about 0.3-0.32ct (about 4.3mm minimum) might be about the minimum proportions to avoid the side stone appearing as accessory stones. In this size range it is possible to get ACA or similar grade diamonds. I guess I would aim to get within one colour and similar clarity with the centre stone (E-G, VS1) but most importantly a good cut.
The current setting is about 11.5mm from end to end. With 3 RBC stones 4.3mm, 6mm, 4.3mm the setting will be quite a bit longer - perhaps 14-15mm depending on how close they can be set.
Is this going to be too big for her finger size?
I would be hoping to get a fairly even profile across the setting where they are set about the same height and follow the contour of the top of the finger, rather than having the centre stone set higher. I am hoping this will prevent it from catching on things too to some extent. The style of the basket would probably be pretty much the same as it is currently (see last picture below) but he said he would put two prongs on each end rather than the single curved one. I would ask him to make the prongs as fine as he was comfortable with.
The jeweller said he can accomodate a longer setting by cutting and shortening the band at the bottom and that this would be preferable to grinding back the sides of the band where it joins the setting which might affect the look of the pinched profile. He said that he uses very high quality platinum solder and a join would not be obvious.
I would really appreciate some input regarding our current plan including any ways that others would go about it differently.
Thanks.
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