Questions on shopping for an asscher

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Hi. I've been scouring this board for a while, and would like to say how wonderful of a community this is. So here it is: My first post as a complete diamond novice.

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In my quest for the perfect engagement ring, I've been trying to do lots of research, but took my first look at some actual diamonds today. I looked at several aschers of various grades and proportions, and I have a few questions from my experiences at two local jewelers in San Francisco this morning...

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1) When I began asking about things like the factors for an ideal cut and maximum sparkle, they (one more so than the other) seemed to stress the importance of polish and symmetry? Was this just because most of the diamonds they had in stock were of excellent for these two categories? Or did I miss something in my reading, where it seemed that very good or even good was sufficient for polish, if not also for symmetry?

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2) Several people have mentioned that with asschers (or square emeralds, if you prefer), you have to actually see the stone, as it is hard to estimate beauty on just the numbers. I did notice that the cuts with smaller tables (60 or below) and larger depths (around 70) were the nicest looking in that the centers were perhaps a bit brighter and the facets around the crown produced the most sparkle. Are these the general characteristics people look for in evaluating such a cut? Of the stones cut with similar dimensions, however, they seemed rather comparable; they were pretty, but I certainly wasn't overwhelmed with one much over another. Am I missing anything? I know many people might prefer something like an idealscope, but I think I'm happy letting my eye be the judge.

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3) Finally one stone I found that fit the budget and sparkled:

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Shape and Cutting Style ... Square Emerald Cut

Measurements ... 5.73 x 5.66 x 3.93 mm

Weight ... 1.08 carat

Proportions

Depth ... 69.4%

Table ... 58%

Girdle ... Slightly Thick

Cutlet ... None

Finish

Polish ... Excellent

Symmetry ... Excellent/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]

Clarity Grade ... SI1/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]

Fluorescence ... None

Comments:

Pinpoints are not shown.

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/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]/www.pricescope.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif[/img]any opinions on a price tag of $4890 for this one?

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4) And lastly, with respect to this last diamond: From the GIA cert. it's listed as a SI1, and the diagram outlines a cluster of small clouds and crystals under the table of the diamond. I could see the inclusions readily when provided with a loop, and even to a degree when looking from through the pavilion. However, I really had a hard time seeing anything face up. I know people mention that an SI1 can be "eye-clean", but I didn't think that would be the case when the inclusions were under the table in a step cut. I'm certainly no expert; I also had a hard time using just my eye to see the inclusions in an SI2. I have no problem buying an SI1, if it takes some work to see the inclusions, but I'm wondering if it could the store lights have made it difficult? In normal lighting or once the stone is dirty, is it likely that such crystals and clouds would be readily apparent?

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Sorry for the length of my post, just wanted to get all my questions out at once. I would certainly appreciate any expert or non-expert advice. Thanks!

 

[diamonddoll]

Royal Aschers are suppposed to be the best because they have more facets (I forget how many more). AS for eye clean, it's supposed to be from about 12" away and from the top. Even if the inclusions are in the middle they could still make for an eye clean stone. There are many types of inlcusions some more diffciult to see than others. For example, a clear crystal should be harder to see than a black one. But if the black were really tiny you might not be able to see it.

I prefer to stick with Idela cut round stones becaue they have more sparkle beasue of their cut than rounds.

(I'm not an expert by any means but have done lots of research in person and online and learned a lot from my GG sister.)

Good luck with your diamond hunt!

 

[strmrdr]

Your on the right track.
Ask to see it under other light conditions some places will take it outside for you or atleast into other areas with different lights.

What to look for is a well defined 10 mile deap look with evenly sized and spaced steps combined with when outside of the stores spot lights throwing off a ton of sparkle when it is moved.
On test if they wont take it out of the lights for you is wear a dark shirt black or dark blue and hold the diamond in a way that your thumb is blocking the overhead lights and the only light getting to it is the light relflected from your shirt and the floor.
Now move it around does it still throw off a ton of sparks and look bright?
Move it is it sparky?
If so it is very likly a good to great one.

If they let you take it outside find an area of medium-deep shade like the shade from tree leaves does it put on a huge light show?
If so its a very good one :}

 

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Thanks for the comments. Does anyone else have any opinions on the important qualitative characteristics when looking for an asscher-cut diamond?

Any thoughts on if the inclusions on an SI1 will become more noticeable when the diamond is dirty?

Again, are excellent symmetry and polish that important?

And any thoughts on this diamond specifically?

 

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Anyone else?

 

[jenwill]

well, as the asscher cut is my favorite, and one that I have been researching for a little while, I will make a few comments:

It is much easier to see inclusions in a step-cut diamond...I personally would be a little worried about the placement of those inclusions on your diagram. Also, it will be harder to see them in the store- if possible take the diamond into a more natural light...sometimes even just getting closer to the door/window and diffusing the store light can help. I noticed this when I went to look at a couple of asscher cut diamonds in person.

As for polish and symmetry- I would go for the best you can get...as there is less natural 'sparkle' in an asscher, you really need the best symmetry and polish to give you the most possible light return. There seem to be fewer guidelines as far as tables,depths,angles and such that make up the best looking stone...I really think alot of it is what you prefer. Some prefer the deeper cut corners, others like them just a little cut. Others prefer smaller tables, some don't.

So, if this stone passes the 'multiple kinds of light test' to your eye, the price seems reasonable. If they won't let you take it to other lights, I might be a little worried. But try the suggestions above about the dark shirt (I must remember this for next time I go looking!)

Best wishes in finding hte diamond of your dreams! Also, I live in the bay area as well....where are you looking for your diamonds?

 

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I went to Derco and Giraux at the Jewelry Mart in SF. I found that in the way of asscher cuts, Giraux seemed to have a bigger selection in my price range. Do you have any other suggestions for where to look? I went to these two stores based upon what I had read on this board. Have you had experience with them being reputable jewelers?




Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[jenwill]

I have heard that Derco is pretty reputable- I don't know much about Giraux. I have seen some nice asscher cuts at some local jewelers on the peninsula, but all very pricey! I have decided that my purchase will probably be made fom an on-line dealer. After having heard so many nice things here about Whiteflash, niceice, and others, I feel that going through one of them and having the finalists sent to an appraiser here will be my best bet.

In the price range you have quoted, there are many contenders on the pricescope search forum....

good luck to you!