Question re. Sizing of Silver & Tourmaline Ring

[Jambalaya]

Two weeks ago I bought a beautiful ring from the rock and mineral store that I've used a lot in the last year. It was a six and a half, I think. They've sized other rings that I bought there, no problem. This ring came back way too big - size six instead of five-and-three-quarters like I asked. It might sound like a small difference but it's big for me since I'm usually more of a large five-and-a-half. However, this ring has a thick shank so I thought going up a quarter size was a good idea, also since I'm probably slightly more than a five and a half anyway.

The ring has a 4mm shank and is bezel set with a big oblong hot-pink tourmaline. Usually I prefer gold rings but the stone was so beautiful I had to have it, even though it's silver.

I sized it on my mandrel and at two other jewelers, one of which had three mandrels. So that's five mandrels, and four said size six and one said between a five and three quarters and a six. But the jeweler I bought it from believes their mandrel is correct and that it's no bigger than a five and three quarter.

Here's the thing: the jeweler is telling me that it's not a good idea to size it again because re-working silver too much is not a good idea, because the stone is delicate and could crack or change color, and because it could pop out of the bezel setting. Note that five and three quarter, like I asked, was not seen to be too big a difference from the original size.

If they could size it once successfully, why not twice? Does anyone know if they are being duly cautious and looking after the ring's beauty by not wanting to do it again, or are they just making excuses?

I hear their concerns, but if they could do it once without disaster I'm not sure why they can't do it twice. I've bought a ton of items at the store but the sizing cost $20 and took two weeks, so it's just a bit annoying. I was looking forward to wearing it, but it's slopping a little on my finger, and feels looser than all my other rings. I like my rings snug but not tight. A true five and three quarter would be perfect. Two other jewelers didn't want to do it, and there is one more to try next week.

Is the jeweler who sold me the ring correct in their concerns, or do you think they just don't want to do it again? Why shouldn't silver be worked too much?

If anyone has advice, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

 

[marymm]

Well, I think to re-size something smaller, they make two cuts in the shank, remove the amount of metal necessary for the correct re-sizing, then gently work the two ends back together and weld solid again.

To resize again, a jeweler usually looks for metal sections that hasn't previously been worked (meaning re-sized).

At under size 6, and with what I'm assuming is a large bezelled center stone, the amount of shank available isn't much (as compared to larger ring sizes), and the parts available which hasn't been previously worked is likely too close to the bezelled stone.

Silver is a softer metal as compared to other metals, and if you keep working the same metal pieces it makes it less strong and more likely to crack/fracture/loosen stone settings.

So I think your jeweler is giving you good advice - but if you're okay with the risks and maybe specifically write on the receipt you accept the risks associated with re-sizing again, your jeweler might re-size for you once more.

* Does your finger size change much with weather/temperature? Would it fit okay in summer but is too loose now in cooler weather?

 

[Jambalaya]

Thank you, marymm! What you say about needing to work closer to the stone makes sense. I've had a stone change color on me before during the heat of sizing, and I was not happy. I definitely don't want to have this stone change color or worse, crack. I'm not so wedded to this setting - I bought it because I liked the stone so much, so don't want anything to happen to it.

Yeah, I was wondering whether to just live with it. It's a little annoying though as I like my rings to stay put - I don't like rings slopping around on my finger, although it doesn't slop that much. But I can feel it's noticeably bigger than all my other rings and I know it's a size six, not the size I asked for, so that's a little frustrating. But yes, my fingers swell in the summer as it's very humid where I live.

I've been put on to a jewelry repair guy who has great reviews, so I'll see what his assessment is tomorrow. Thanks for your reply!

 

[Jambalaya]

I went to the jewelry repair guy I'd been recommended, just for a second opinion. Like the other jewelers I went to, he confirmed it was a size six. He felt how it went over my knuckle and said it needed to go down half a size, not a quarter. He said he could do it easy without damaging it, and invited me to "pull up a chair." I watched while he sawed and soldered and polished, he did it right then and there, for $20. And he was right - the new size is really perfect. It hugs my finger nicely without being tight, doesn't fall to the side, and just looks a perfect size for my finger. I was resigned to just living with it bigger, and thought the repair guy would repeat what the original jeweler said, but he was confident about doing it without further damage, so that was that. I'm enjoying wearing it now because it feels nice and secure, and the stone is always on the top. Yay! Definitely worth it. I'll do an SMTB thread. So nice when these things work out!

 

[Jambalaya]

ETA: He had this blow-torch going all the time, sitting on a stand with it blue and orange flame burning away, and he suddenly says, "I think we need more oxygen in here" and turns this wheel on the wall! I guess the torch was gas.

I can just imagine the local news story - "Jeweler and customer found slumped on the floor, overcome by the repair kit."