Question about jewelers, benchmen, designers, and the process of creating jewelry

[londonblue]

I''ve read a lot of posts recently talking about jewelers and benchmen, etc
but I''m really not sure how this process all works. Could someone explain what the differences and relationships are between all these areas in say, a custom made ring?

I realize for some people it may overlap and maybe they do all the jobs themselves, but how exactly are the jobs usually divided up when there are many different people performing these tasks? And when it comes to big name designers like Daniel K, how much hand on work do they actually do?

A long time ago in school I took a class in which I carved wax, cast silver, and soldered, cut, buffed and set SS jewelry. Is that sort of what benchmen do or something different? Anyway, I think any explanations of these different terms would really help when communicating w/ jewelers about projects or even ring resizing.

thanks!

 

[mrssalvo]

This is my understanding. I''m sure there are better definitions out there.

A Jeweler is just that. sometimes the owner, sometimes a staff member but does not necessarily work on jewelry. I think of them in the sales position. The benchman is the guy who is doing the work. Some Jewelers are benchman too and do both.

As far as the big name guys, most of them no longer do their own work. I think Michael b has 3 benchman that make his rings. Leon says on his site he is involved in all projects but does not make them all any more. The bigger the designer the less likely you are to have a ring made by that person.

I believe a benchman would do all the things you described.

 

[strmrdr]

benchmen - someone who does the bench work
jeweler - might or might not be a benchman - sells jewelry

Daniel K is now a corporation owned by a DeBeers sight holder.
How much involvement he has in it is unknown to me.
Most of the production named pieces the person whose name is on it is unlikely to do any work on any given ring and in a lot of cases will never even see it.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Date: 6/24/2006 2:26:36 AM
Author: strmrdr
benchmen - someone who does the bench work
jeweler - might or might not be a benchman - sells jewelry

Daniel K is now a corporation owned by a DeBeers sight holder.
How much involvement he has in it is unknown to me.
Most of the production named pieces the person whose name is on it is unlikely to do any work on any given ring and in a lot of cases will never even see it.

...which is the main reason I''d be very reluctant to pay for a designer name. Custom seems to be the way to go to get a better quality diamond in a less expensive but beautiful setting.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/24/2006 9:22:51 AM
Author: diamondseeker2006

Date: 6/24/2006 2:26:36 AM

Author: strmrdr

benchmen - someone who does the bench work

jeweler - might or might not be a benchman - sells jewelry


Daniel K is now a corporation owned by a DeBeers sight holder.

How much involvement he has in it is unknown to me.

Most of the production named pieces the person whose name is on it is unlikely to do any work on any given ring and in a lot of cases will never even see it.

...which is the main reason I'd be very reluctant to pay for a designer name. Custom seems to be the way to go to get a better quality diamond in a less expensive but beautiful setting.

see, i'm the opposite. Leon says on his site, his guys have to train 5-6 years before they make any of his rings. I'd much prefer this type of skill, the guys who do it everyday for the designer to someone who is making it for the first time or only makes it every few weeks. Plus, custom can go astray and their are many things that can go wrong or room for expectations to not be meet. I like to know exactly what I'm getting. I don't care about paying for the designer because i know I'm getting what I paid for. Also, you are paying for the ring *design* not just the person *making* it.

Guess it's good both types of people like us are out there, it will keep both in business

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I am going to have to chime in here to add something to my other post! I agree with mrssalvo that there are some intricate settings that I''d be very afraid to try to duplicate. We have recently seen Gypsy and Isaku looking at a Daniel K setting that no one else has made, and I agree with the hesitation to be the first to try it! So if one has an eye on a complex, intricate setting, I totally agree with mrssalvo..it''s best to get it done by a source you KNOW can do it right! On the other hand, if one is after a simple pave set or a Tiffany look, those are so readily available in fine quality from other sources, I wouldn''t pay the price premium for a designer name. I''m sorry I did not think all that through when I posted earlier, and I am glad mrssalvo brought up the issues she did. I think mrssalvo and I pretty much agree on all this!