Platinum Setting

[mathnerd88]

Hello guys,

I'm trying to get a diamond set in the Vatche Swan setting from WF, and they only offer it in 95% Plat/5% Iridium. I tried asking for the 95% Plat/5% Ruthenium but they don't offer that. They don't even offer 90% Plat/10% Iridium.

Is this true? I want the setting to be as durable as possible.

Thank you!

 

[rockysalamander]

Details as of February of 2018
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/vatche-platinum.238186/

 

[mathnerd88]

Details as of February of 2018
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/vatche-platinum.238186/

Interesting...so WF was misinformed in telling me it was 95% plat/5% iridium?

 

[rockysalamander]

Interesting...so WF was misinformed in telling me it was 95% plat/5% iridium?

Or...Vatche changed their alloys again. Its been a bit of a moving target over the years. Or maybe that particular setting has some limitation on the alloy. Maybe @Texas Leaguer can offer some insight.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

The standard alloy almost everywhere is 95plat/5iridium. Some of us had sucess in getting Vatche to change it, but they possibly got sick of the special requests! Vatche definitely used to do the 5% iridium because that is why some of us asked for other alloys. So I'd just have WF verify with Vatche what their current standard alloy is. If it's 5% ruthenium, that's great.

 

[LightBright]

The standard alloy almost everywhere is 95plat/5iridium. Some of us had sucess in getting Vatche to change it, but they possibly got sick of the special requests! Vatche definitely used to do the 5% iridium because that is why some of us asked for other alloys. So I'd just have WF verify with Vatche what their current standard alloy is. If it's 5% ruthenium, that's great.

Hi Diamondseeker,
According to a communication that Wink’sElf had with Vatche on Friday (on my behalf), Vatche no longer uses Iridium in their platinum alloy. Its casters only use Ruthenium.

I happen to have a Ruthenium sensitivity. My preference is for 900/100 Iridium which is almost as strong as Ruthenium, and I happen to like the color and smoothness of that alloy. Also, everyone in the jewelry business seems to be keeping this on the down-low, but many jewelers (casters) are switching to Ruthenium because it costs a fraction of Iridium. You cannot find an Iridium alloy on James Allen for example. Mark Morrell still uses 900/100 Plat Iridium. Simon G, Michael B both use 900/100 Plat/irid. Many fine jewelers use 900/100for the reasons that Mark Morrell spells out in his webpage. In a nutshell he feels it is better for casting and for developing the soft fluidity of his craftsmanship. On the other hand, Steven Kirsch uses Ruthenium in his masterworks, and they look perfectly fluid to me, but his work is hand wrought not casted. Steven will do Iridium as a special request. David Klass uses Iridium alloy. Stuller can do either.

My personal concern with Ruthenium is lthat it is highly toxic when smelted. This is not good for employees of the jewelry industry. Sweden has apparently banned it for Occupational Health reasons according to another recent discussion here on PS. See MSDS data sheet for Ruthenium, it’s pretty sobering. Maybe one of the jewelers on here can comment on this as I may be wrong on suspecting smelted Ruthenium is any worse than Iridium.

One idea I had since the issue keeps coming up is to maintain a sticky on Rocky Talky about which manufacturers use which alloys in their manufacturing.

 

[Johnbt]

I assume jewelers know the correct handling precautions/requirements used in the electronics industry. The information is available.

From the ESPI metals site:

"Most ruthenium produced is used in electronics for wear-resistant electrical contacts and the production of thick-film resistors."

Now, if somebody is buying the stuff and melting it down at home on the stove or grill, all bets are off.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

Or...Vatche changed their alloys again. Its been a bit of a moving target over the years. Or maybe that particular setting has some limitation on the alloy. Maybe @Texas Leaguer can offer some insight.

I am looking into the matter and hopefully will have some concrete info later today. Vatche has just moved their offices and have been having phone and email issues for the past couple of weeks.
I will report back as soon as our production team can get an update.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

We received a reply this morning from Vatche that they are currently ONLY doing Platinum 950 Ruthenium. They have discontinued doing special request alloys until further notice.

We have no reason to believe any past orders were not filled in accord with the customer's preference, but if @mathnerd88 or anyone else has a question about their particular order, please let us know so we can look into the specifics.

 

[mathnerd88]

Thank you @Texas Leaguer.