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palladium/platinum e-ring... what now?

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sweetadeleine

Rough_Rock
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Oct 15, 2007
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Greetings, forum. This is my first post, and I intend it to be thorough!

After a month of research, I decided I wanted a palladium ring (for its strength and impending darkness) with a setting based (on a picture) of a rhinestone costume jewelry piece my friend has always worn (and I''d always been envious of). I also knew I wanted colored gemstones or diamonds.

Then I set about finding a jeweler. After a small poll on a blogging community for Portlanders, as well as some in-person meetings at about five different independent storefronts, I narrowed my choice down to two jewelers: David Frank (Charms and Amulets of the 21st Century, davidfrank.com) and Jones & Jones Jewelers (jonesandjonesjewelers.com). David and Tom were both nerdy craftsman who had been in the business about 40 years, spent a lot of time talking to me, and both did excellent custom design work. In the end, however, I chose Jones because he got my diamonds in faster and seemed more excited about other forms of fabrication, like wireworking, than pushing the laser-welding point. In addition, Jones is also an Eight-Star diamond dealer, and I think he''s the only one in Portland. I can''t afford Eight Star diamonds, but they''re pretty picky about who they let distribute their stones, so I knew I''d be in good hands.

And I was, and I am. I think. Jones seemed really communicative at first (I''m a Communications scholar, currently working on my Master''s Degree in LIS). He talked to my fiancee and I for hours about what we wanted, and didn''t seem too worried about anything or annoyed at how I can''t communicate visual images with words. And he found me eight great cognac diamonds (though I didn''t realize until today that I never asked about certification); two .44 carat diamonds, and three other pairs probably measuring .20, .15, and .10, or something like that. Exactly what I wanted!

But then we''d come in again and he would seem to have no recollection of the things we''d discussed previously, like that I wanted palladium (950 parts), and not white gold. And he seemed to forget my design preferences rather easily, which exhausted me. And every time I tried to get him to understand what I was saying, he would think I had some fundamental issue of not understanding how jewelry works, so he repeated himself a lot, but without realizing what I meant or answering my questions, and getting irritated at the time because he had to repeat himself (or so he decided). He told us he was going to make some drawings, and then just ended up fabricating the ring we''d talked about and called us up one day, but I wasn''t prepared for that...and while I loved the ring, it wasn''t enough like what I was looking for, so I asked him to do it again. Then he made a crude mock-up of the laser-welded heads, which I liked very much, so I asked him to do it in palladium just the same way. He did (with a palladium shank and platinum heads), and a week later I had a wonderful engagement ring (albeit with a crooked prong that needs to be fixed. Won''t that cause a stone to fall out? I can''t tell without a magnifying glass) that is everything I dreamed of. The heads are gorgeous, they look like queen''s crowns, the color of the metals is immaculate, and the diamonds are sparkling off in every direction.

So yes. Now we get into the questions, and please only answer these if you truly know the answer(s).

I read on here that palladium is $200/oz., but the palladium for my ring ended up costing something like $700 for a plain, thin shank. Is that normal? Whatever, that is the least of my questions. Anyway, it seems like the platinum heads could have eaten up what I would have paid for the palladium in the 1st fabrication. I may have just answered my own question, but I want to be sure.

I also read on here quite a lot of conflicting information regarding palladium and platinum, as in, palladium is stronger, no platinum is stronger, no palladium is better for heads, no platinum. Which is it? Pick ONE. Or, pick both, but explain specifically what makes platinum superior in one way and palladium superior in another.

And, is it normal for someone who has been in the business for "37 years" to treat me like I''m annoying when I start getting picky, because...well... I''m spending $4000 on an engagement ring, and I want it to be perfect, just how I wanted, and to last forever? And by the way, I choose businesses that are small and specialized all the time, on purpose, even though I usually end up paying more. I want to support these people because I like them, that''s one reason I''m getting my wedding bands done at David Frank. I just liked the guy, and I want to give him my business because he''s a rarity and he deserves it. So, I never treat the people I''m working with badly, even as a customer. I just hate the thought that I''m going to be working with this guy (Jones) on this ring until I move too far away to use him anymore (for cleanings and repairs), and he''s always going to treat me this way, and I''m always going to have to put up with it because I don''t want him having an incentive to mar my ring! And it''s all due to his lack of competent communication in the first place that he had to make me a 2nd fabrication.

And is it normal to have uncertified diamonds? Does it matter?

And how do I get this appraised? I looked around, and I found one appraiser I liked from their online profile, but apparently anyone can be an appraiser! And I''ve read some hefty beefs against the appraising market in recent times, some of those beefs specifically with local, independent dealers.

Also, when Jones went back and made up new forms for my ring (one for me, one for insurance, both with picture and description) he left the price the same as he had had it for the first fabrication. Is that normal? Was it just super-nice of him not to charge me more? Was he being lazy?

And lastly, how should I clean palladium? What should I avoid?

And, does anyone use a non-ammonia solution that works well for diamond rings before running them through a steam-clean?

Oh, and I have a shoddy picture from my cell phone. I''d get a better digital photo because I''d really like to show it off (and you all are so excitable!), but I also don''t want it to be copied
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By the way, why won''t this forum let me post to the photo gallery?

Oh, oh, oh! And I really don''t want to get a wedding band that has to wrap around my engagement ring, or be welded to it to avoid the rings rubbing on each other. Has anyone had any experience with a rubber ring in-between, or maybe anything else that they''ve found works to keep the rings separate? I hate the idea of taking off my wedding ring if I have to take my engagement ring off. My hand would be so naked!
 
wow sweet what an experience. i just wanted to say welcome to pricescope. i cannot answer all of your questions but if you stick around and read here many of them will be answered. try typing in some of your questions into the search, you''ll be able to find info there.
 
Hello Adele,

Wow... when you said thorough, you meant it.
First, I''m confused about the uncerted diamonds as I have no idea what the ring design is and there are quite a few diamonds referred to... so my only comment is, depending on the size of the diamonds, if they are small, many times you will get uncerted diamonds because the cost of certification in proportion to the cost of the stone isn''t fiscally reasonable. So, what size are the diamonds in your setting?
 
Thank you for welcoming me!
 
Date: 10/15/2007 7:44:16 PM
Author: sweetadeleine
Thank you for welcoming me!

hahaha, welcome from me too
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There is a crude picture as my icon, but the ring itself is one .44 carat diamond with three progressively smaller diamonds wrapping around it, and right next to the open space of that larger diamond is another .44 carat diamond with three other progressively smaller diamonds wrapping around it.

I tried to make a text picture out of two uppercase O's and six lowercase o's, but it didn't work. I hope it makes sense, anyway. They are all round cut.
 
Okay-- your AV could inspire migrains (small oject, pic taken from a distance and blurry), so could you repost that pic in this thread? Can't help you on the don't want to be copied, it's a public forum and it's a risk.

The largest diamonds are under 1/2 a carat? That's not really raising any alarms in my mind, as you didn't specify certed diamonds when wyou contracted him and were on a budget and wanted fancy colored diamonds too, and the diamonds aren't really large. So ... not really much criticize him for there. Not from your post anyway.

As for the strain in the relationship as a result of personality clash, well... it happens. It's unfortunate, and both sides usually have stories to tell, but if you are going to have an ongoing relationship with him, maybe you could schedule a time to talk to him, constructively, without blame and just air things out and get them set back on the right path. It sounds like he really tried to make you happy, and even re-made a ring for you, so he doesn't sound unreasonable there either.

Palladium is a metal, so the prices fluctuate frequently... and you didn't buy a raw block of metal, you purchased a piece of jewelry... metal is worked, work/labor costs money. 700 doesn't sound like anyone took advantage of you especially as it's a custom piece and remade once.

For the properties of palladium v. platinum there are many threads on that so search those out, same with the cleaning questions.
 
Thanks for the input!

As far as cleaning and looking at each thread on palladium/platinum arguments, I already did that. My personal evaluation of those threads was what led to the questions I asked, which haven''t been answered by any thread on this forum.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks to you, too, WorkingHard!
 
If you want help, you really need to post a legible photo, so people can see what you''re talking about. As for copying your ring, I''m sure you''re not the first with whatever design you have...it''s all been done at one time or another! So how about posting a photo so we can see what the problem is...?
 
I really don''t know why some of you keep insisting on a photo, when there is actually no problem at all with the ring itself. It kind of seems like you''re skimming the post and making an assumption... The ring is perfect; it''s a dream! And I would recommend Jones to anyone, I''m just curious about a certain number of things I asked (all at the end of my post). Someone answered the diamond certification thing clearly; I probably didn''t need it or have the money to get certified cognac diamonds, and they were too small to be worth it. And I didn''t ask, so that would be my fault if I was vying for certification. Someone else answered that $700 is probably the right price to pay because of labor and fluctuating metal prices, and they also justified it by the fact that Jones made me a completely new ring.

There is no problem with the ring, other than a slightly crooked prong that will soon undoubtedly be set right by Jones.

So what about my other questions? As a jewelry consumer, I''m an amateur. But, I''m a well-read amateur (on this forum, at least). I''m only asking questions about things that have not been addressed, such as questions about customer service and what is average/normal experience based on anecdotal evidence from the users of this forum.

Thanks
 
I believe you were saying that there was an issue with the prongs and you wanted to know if that was going to make your stone loose or something...I cant help you with some of the other issues, but I could have helped with the prong issue. And we cant tell if there is a problem unless we cant see a close up of the prongs. But anyway, good luck and enjoy your ring.
 
Ah, sorry for the confusion. Thank you!
 
most folks still don''t know a lot about palladium. why not just ask your jeweler the best way to clean it? I would think you could still put it in an ultrasonic cleaner or use the store bought cleaning stuff though but I honestly don''t know. I can only think of a couple of PS''ers who have or purchased palladium rings, maybe they will see this and chime in.

sounds like you''re happy with everything else and it''s not unual for stones in the size you''re talking about to not have certs so my guess is you got what you paid for.
 
For cleaning with a non-ammonia solution, you can get those little jars of jewelry cleaner sold by jewelers and at WalMart. And some people here use a little Mr. Clean mixed with water.

Regarding the pricing on your ring, are you saying that they priced out each part of the ring separately...stones, shank, heads, etc.? Generally a custom ring would have a quote for the setting plus stones. But I can''t answer whether the price was fair.

Under Resources on this site, you can find the names of independent jewelry appraisers. However, if you are satisfied with your ring and have an insurance valuation already to allow you to insure the ring, then there is probably no compelling reason to have it appraised since custom pieces are not returnable. I think the jeweler was very nice to leave the price the same even though he reworked the ring for you. He must have wanted you to be pleased with the ring.

I''ve never heard of a rubber ring between the two rings, but several people here have had a thin spacer ring to wear between the two rings to keep diamonds from rubbing. But we are not sure how your setting is made, so it is hard to say whether you''ll be able to wear a wedding band with it. You generally have to have the ring made so that a wedding band can sit next to it.
 
First of all I am going to go ahead and post. I read through this because people were talking about palladium, I was tired of reading my book, and I got my fiance a palladium ring and spent a decent amount of time studying palladium over other metals. I am not an expert, just a consumer that spent a bit of time reading up probably a lot of the same things you have read up on. but I'll do what I feel I can, but feel free to research any of my answers--at worst it will give you more specific questions to ask;) (as if you didn't have enough it would seem...)

Some of my own answers may be a bit lengthy, but since your post was so long I hope you can respect that ;)



Greetings, forum. This is my first post, and I intend it to be thorough!

(albeit with a crooked prong that needs to be fixed. Won't that cause a stone to fall out?


if the diamond is not loose and has adquate spread between the prongs then there shouldn't be any significantly greater risk of losing the diamond. I suppose if it were REALLY crooked basically turning it in to a 3 prong then I am sure the risk would be greater, but being a little off 90 degrees on each won't make a big problem. But nobody could say for sure without inspecting it in person, and def not with much confidence without a picture. So thats your gamble if you won't share any images;)


So yes. Now we get into the questions, and please only answer these if you truly know the answer(s).

hum, I will say what I think I know but if what I think I know is really true or not...you are going to have to find that out for yourself


I read on here that palladium is $200/oz., but the palladium for my ring ended up costing something like $700 for a plain, thin shank. Is that normal?

it would really help to see your exact ring. Alot of various elements can contribute to its cost. but without seeing your ring I can say with some confidence that

Palladium rings will generally run you a bit more than the same thing in White Gold. The metal itself may not be more expensive, but it is more difficult to work with. Up until recently Palladium was an impractical metal to use when compared to other alternatives. This was for a variety of reasons--it is hard to maintain a proper polish (especially when using a torch), it absorbs hydrogen, and can easily have, I believe I was told, oxidation problems? I am getting a bit rusty on my particular terms from when I last spoke with my jeweler about it. I am not sure the term oxidation was correct, but whatever the correct term I am positive that what it comes down to is that during the casting it is very easy for palladium rings to become structurally faulty and have to be redone. This risk of having to redo the ring (which would not change the price given to you no matter how many times it had to be redone), the extra time polishing, certain tools involved, and perhaps even the exclusivity of jewelers familiar with Palladium, often cause for it to be more expensive than gold. In addition the Palladium is purer, which means that the ring of the same size contains greater % of precious metal than a similar rings cast in gold.

Do not foget you are not just paying for materials, but also labor.

Materials may be slightly less expensive than in gold, but labor is usually, from my experience, going to run you a bit more, thus raising the price.



Whatever, that is the least of my questions. Anyway, it seems like the platinum heads could have eaten up what I would have paid for the palladium in the 1st fabrication.

I had a simple solitaire in palladium with a platinum head for a .61ct diamond. The labor and cost of the platinum head ran me 60% of the cost of my shank. I wouldn't really recommend this to be honest, I just did it because I anticipated having difficulties getting insurance and needed the extra peace of mind that the platinum head gives me.

with multiple multiple diamonds being held in a platinum head for only 700 I am actually pretty darn surprised it was that cheap. it is def a reasonable price.



I also read on here quite a lot of conflicting information regarding palladium and platinum, as in, palladium is stronger, no platinum is stronger, no palladium is better for heads, no platinum. Which is it? Pick ONE. Or, pick both, but explain specifically what makes platinum superior in one way and palladium superior in another.

One of your problems here is that there is not just one type of palladium or platinum. there are alot of different alloys and there are alot of different casting methods all of which yield varies strengths. what you may want to focus on studying are just the general properties of each and determine why each one would be beneficial or not.

I will tell you for now that I would not settle for anything but platinum prongs.

this is getting too long so I am not going to go into the various metal properties for now, perhaps I will share some of what I learned later but its pretty late, but I will say these things:

if you have a palladium shank and gold head you MAY notice a two-tone effect.

Palladium shank and platinum prongs do NOT, to my eye at least, have a two-tone effect.

If you can get insurance to cover the loss of the diamond and would be ok with that then I would say consider a cheaper Head alternative. Exactly what options of metals do you have to choose from as your head?



And, is it normal for someone who has been in the business for '37 years' to treat me like I'm annoying when I start getting picky


in my experience yes, but that doesn't mean you have to put up with it. Common or "Normal" does not mean everyone


until I move too far away to use him anymore (for cleanings and repairs), and he's always going to treat me this way, and I'm always going to have to put up with it because I don't want him having an incentive to mar my ring!


it could be quite challenging to find a jeweler familiar with palladium. I had a really hard time with getting a simple ring resize, and it cost me 90 bucks to move down about 1/2 a size.


And it's all due to his lack of competent communication in the first place that he had to make me a 2nd fabrication.


yea, it was his fault it sounds like, but it didn't hurt you either, so don't stress over it



And is it normal to have uncertified diamonds? Does it matter?

again, it is normal but you don't always have to put up with it. I would want anything over 30 points to be certified...but below that its going to get challenging. At the very least have an appraiser verify that they are actually diamonds ;) but yes, in diamonds of this size it is VERY common, even up to .70 cts or so it is extremely common.



And how do I get this appraised? I looked around, and I found one appraiser I liked from their online profile, but apparently anyone can be an appraiser! And I've read some hefty beefs against the appraising market in recent times, some of those beefs specifically with local, independent dealers.


I would start a new thread asking about appraisers in your area, and only asking that. then take the advice of the active PS appraisers. You can also go to this link (copy and paste) to find a list of your nearest AGS Independent appraisers:

http://www.americangemsociety.org/member-search.php



Also, when Jones went back and made up new forms for my ring (one for me, one for insurance, both with picture and description) he left the price the same as he had had it for the first fabrication. Is that normal? Was it just super-nice of him not to charge me more? Was he being lazy?

ahh, I see what you said now, missed it at first...he should have spoken with you before making the ring right? I don't know enough details, but...it all sounded like a pretty strange occurence if you hadn't laid out what you want your custom ring to look like


And lastly, how should I clean palladium? What should I avoid?

be careful when you rub it first. Platinum, Palladium, Gold--all of them are very soft when compared to quartz and a number of other objects. We like to call our rings hard, and they are harder than finger nails to be sure...but...not much. In particular with quartz, it is very hard, and very common. Thus if you are rubbing it and the ring is dirty, or there are abrassives on the toothbrush/cloth whatever you have then the harder items will scratch your ring. With palladium, this is going to be your biggest risk.

One of the reasons to pick palladium over gold is because it is similar to platinum in that it is hypoallergenic and nonreactive. You can clean it with ammonia, it doesn't matter. During casting it can be a bit more sensitive to certain gas, as I said before, but in your cleaning process you can clean it just the same as you would platinum--you wouldn't want to use fire on either of them obviously... and Obviously reverify that somewhere. If I had simply heard it from one source as you are hearing it from me, I would never have just trusted that one source. But everything I have learned says that that is true and so I feel confident in telling you what I have learned.



And, does anyone use a non-ammonia solution that works well for diamond rings before running them through a steam-clean?

There are plenty, do a search on hear about cleaning solutions. But as I said, ammonia is no risk to palladium, for sure.


Oh, and I have a shoddy picture from my cell phone. I'd get a better digital photo because I'd really like to show it off (and you all are so excitable!), but I also don't want it to be copied
32.gif


you need to get over that


Oh, oh, oh! And I really don't want to get a wedding band that has to wrap around my engagement ring, or be welded to it to avoid the rings rubbing on each other. Has anyone had any experience with a rubber ring in-between, or maybe anything else that they've found works to keep the rings separate? I hate the idea of taking off my wedding ring if I have to take my engagement ring off. My hand would be so naked!

its very possible that the rubbing won't be a problem. The absolute most important thing is that the diamonds are not rubbing the prongs of other diamonds. Otherwise you still need to be careful, but you will probably survive it. There are alot of spacer options out there though, I haven't read up about them myself yet though.
 
Date: 10/15/2007 9:57:03 PM
Author: diamondseeker2006
For cleaning with a non-ammonia solution, you can get those little jars of jewelry cleaner sold by jewelers and at WalMart. And some people here use a little Mr. Clean mixed with water.


Regarding the pricing on your ring, are you saying that they priced out each part of the ring separately...stones, shank, heads, etc.? Generally a custom ring would have a quote for the setting plus stones. But I can't answer whether the price was fair.


Under Resources on this site, you can find the names of independent jewelry appraisers. However, if you are satisfied with your ring and have an insurance valuation already to allow you to insure the ring, then there is probably no compelling reason to have it appraised since custom pieces are not returnable. I think the jeweler was very nice to leave the price the same even though he reworked the ring for you. He must have wanted you to be pleased with the ring.


I've never heard of a rubber ring between the two rings, but several people here have had a thin spacer ring to wear between the two rings to keep diamonds from rubbing. But we are not sure how your setting is made, so it is hard to say whether you'll be able to wear a wedding band with it. You generally have to have the ring made so that a wedding band can sit next to it.

oh my god that response of mine just took a long time. I am finished with this thread for a while...

but, if he charged you 700 dollars for just the palladium shank I think you may have gotten a bad deal. if it is including the heads holding the diamonds, you got a fantastic deal. I am dizzy now with all of the words, and no doubt i made some mistake in all of that which I typed, so ask for anything that needs clarification and let me know if something seems wrong.
 
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