Need help with concerning prongs and quality control

[Jobis]

TLDR; prongs are bad, see pics, what should I do specifically to fix and ensure quality?

So when I picked up my finished ring from reputable and large. I immediately thought the ring looked asymmetrical. I told them so, but I couldn’t pinpoint why, but from top-down it looked like the prongs on one side were uneven and sticking out further than the other. I also thought the diamond was tilted by 1-2 degrees and that maybe this caused the asymmetry but this one could be completely off.

The bench jeweler said the prongs may have been slightly larger on one side so he “polished it for me”. It didn’t look any different to me after, and after extreme effort trying to explain it to them with photos and drawings, they did not see any asymmetry and I felt like I was gaslit for 2-3hrs. I reluctantly paid for the ring anyways due to time constraints, after the owner gave me his word he would fix it if I was unhappy, and give full refund either way if asked.

I took the ring home and realized their “fix” had mad the stone loose. It was rattling in the cage. I took it back the day after, they spent 10mins and “fixed it”. But now the prongs look all sorts of f’d up (to my untrained eye at least), they look way worse, are floating, massive gaps. See pics below. Only 2 of the prongs make what I would think is perfect contact with the stone, hugging it near the girdle and over.


What should I do? I really don’t know how to approach this. I know I will send a strongly worded email which I have been too passive to send before now. But what should I request? Them to fix it? Explain in detail how to fix it in writing? Re-set the stone? Refund (not so much an option because I don’t want to redo all the work I put into the custom plus fiancé loves it)? Or go to a new place entirely and pay more for quality? Request a discount so I can pay for a new place to fix it? What’s my best option here? MAYBE even request a discount for the poor quality work, and then go to a different jeweler? If I were them I would only agree to 1)fix, or 2)full refund. But I think best outcome is a partial refund if possible.


I’ve already expressed my frustration to lower management during the customization process weeks ago because of how bad they were at implementing my edits. I admit I was being pretty perfectionist, and that’s why I feel like I’m gaslight-able. When I picked up the finished ring, tho the owner himself took me to the bench jeweler to talk about my concern. He didn’t see what was wrong, but seemed to want to make me happy and reassured me they would make it right.

 

[Karl_K]

Only needed one pic to see that the setting is way off.
Green arrow its going to get caught on everything.
Red arrow: there is not enough support the corner of the stone is going to snap off if hit.
If they dont see a problem with that then I would just get a refund and move on.

 

[Karl_K]

This one is also very very bad. There is a hairs width of diamond touching the prong.

 

[Karl_K]

The others are almost as bad in my personal opinion.
One thing is for sure do not anyone wear that ring as is.

 

[Bonfire]

Wow! I’ve never seen such shoddy prong work! Most aren’t even making contact with the stone at all. How they can say they don’t see a problem is a HUGE red flag. Shame on them for gaslighting you like that. I would not expect that they can possibly make this right. Sorry this happened to you.

 

[Lookinagain]

It's definitely improperly set and if they don't see that, then I question either their honesty or their competency. I'd take the full refund on the setting and go somewhere else. I wouldn't trust them to make it right since they apparently already "tried".

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

I have seen about half a million diamond rings in 50 years.
That wins an award!

 

[Jobis]

I have seen about half a million diamond rings in 50 years.
That wins an award!

It's definitely improperly set and if they don't see that, then I question either their honesty or their competency. I'd take the full refund on the setting and go somewhere else. I wouldn't trust them to make it right since they apparently already "tried".

Only needed one pic to see that the setting is way off.
Green arrow its going to get caught on everything.
Red arrow: there is not enough support the corner of the stone is going to snap off if hit.
If they dont see a problem with that then I would just get a refund and move on.

Thank you guys for the validation. Glad I’m not going crazy here.

Problem is my fiancé loves the ring (it’s gorgeous cause I basically designed it myself cause they are f’ing incompetent). She really does not want to wait a month or so to custom make a new one.
To clarify, if I get a refund will they take the whole setting (all gold and side diamonds back)?

Uggh idk what to do.
I think for start I should send an angry email saying this is unacceptable. Not requesting anything, and just put it out there how bad it is and how upset I am.

Another problem is that they have $200 of mine for a future hand engraving (they couldn’t figure out how to do what I asked in time so I said we’ll just do it after I propose)

Wow! I’ve never seen such shoddy prong work! Most aren’t even making contact with the stone at all. How they can say they don’t see a problem is a HUGE red flag. Shame on them for gaslighting you like that. I would not expect that they can possibly make this right. Sorry this happened to you.

Wow, really eye opening. Guess I have to go full nuclear and burn this bridge

 

[jjca]

Some insurance companies won't cover loss due to poor workmanship or defects, so definitely do not wear it until they get it right and/or secure it.

 

[Garry H (Cut Nut)]

The mid way prongs will hold the diamond. But there is little protection from the tips for damage

 

[MissGotRocks]

If they can't see the glaring mess with the prongs, I wouldn't want them to touch the ring anymore. Find a reputable jeweler that you can discuss this ring and its issues with quickly. I wouldn't want to take a chance of something snagging on those prongs causing them to break off and your diamond to fall out.

 

[Rfisher]

Request a discount so I can pay for a new place to fix it?

I think if you take it to a second jeweler to fix, it most likely will not be a budget option. Most craftspeople charge more for fixing others mistakes.
Plus - if it doesn’t go right, neither vendor will claim ownership, and point to the other. And you’ll still have to pay that second jeweler for their labor for trying.

Is your ring anything out of the ordinary from what your jeweler typically produces? Does most of their work use stock peg heads for calibrated stones and yours isn’t?

Are you happy with the rest of the ring’s look- including where the basket meets the shank? If you are -
I’d be tempted to talk with the owner themselves and have the macro pictures available - have the owner look at the ring with a loupe and ask him if he thinks it’s ok. If he again takes you to his bench person, instead of answering you that tells you something. If the owner pushes this off on the bench to answer - the bench person has already deemed this fine. Even though you’d be starting fresh and having to wait - that’s better, big picture, imo.

I think it’d be interesting to hear from someone in the trade what kind of work would need to be done to each prong to make it ok. Reshaping the seat, setting and polishing - or more than ‘just’ that as in retipping/needing new metal.

And just for the prong issue illustration:

Prongs? Not a question of what style you prefer - but what you expect to receive in their execution. Functional/security wise.

A poster recently said:
“It appears some posters on PS think there is one set of standards for expensive high-end rings, and another set of standards for lower-end settings.”
I think this is actually true.
15+ years ago I bought a ring and a necklace on a budget from a vendor. I naively assumed they would be held to the polish/workmanship that was so praised and commonly macro photoed online. Silly me- those were their higher level bench items! It’s OK. I understand the economics on this one. It’s aesthetic.

back to topic.
ive pulled these photos from Lebish. I’ve never bought from them - so that holds no reference.


This above is referenced as solid prong execution.
these below are workmanship issues


Here’s my question-
What would you live with on your ring, without asking work to be redone, if any?
Lifted prongs aren’t included here because I think that’s a given.
Does how much you paid for the setting factor into your decision? If so- what’s your guide there?
Is your answer the same for diamonds vs colored stones?

I understand it probably won’t be answered - but I’m also curious from the vendor perspective.
is the level of skill and attention to detail to get a prong cut to the individual stone shape and deburred of flashing something that needs to be stated as a ‘want’ in a project?
is it just not economically feasible to be a given?

 

[Karl_K]

To not quote a long post:
I dont think its salvageable. Part of the problem is that it just does not fit the stone and is not going to without a ton of work.
It would be expensive, maybe as much as a new one to get someone willing to redo it in my area.

"
A poster recently said:
“It appears some posters on PS think there is one set of standards for expensive high-end rings, and another set of standards for lower-end settings.”"
I do.
In low cost rings say taking a stock setting and pop a stone it it I expect the stone to be secure, but the fit, refinement and finish I would not expect the same level as a full custom piece designed for that stone.
The way this stone is set is unacceptable in a $35 silver and cz ring.

 

[Tonks]

If they can't see the glaring mess with the prongs, I wouldn't want them to touch the ring anymore. Find a reputable jeweler that you can discuss this ring and its issues with quickly. I wouldn't want to take a chance of something snagging on those prongs causing them to break off and your diamond to fall out.

THIS.

OP, this isn’t just an issue with prongs being uneven. This is an issue with the prongs not doing their one job, which is to hold the stone. I doubt the setting was made for the stone so it is not the correct size. There should not be all that space from the side where you are looking between stone and prongs.

When setting, they use a tool to carve a sort of notch out of the prongs. Your stone should rest firmly in that notch, and the top part of the prongs should then be folded over the stone, fitting to the stone, and ideally the prongs are then polished and finished so they are beautiful and even and add to the overall aesthetic. There should NOT be those huge gaps. In your last two photos nothing is even touching the stone.

MGR said it best—do not return to this jeweler if they see nothing wrong with this.

 

[Dreamer_D]

This is a recipe to lose the stone. It cannot be worn as it is. Demand refund. Have it remade somewhere else. Don’t keep banging your head in this wall.

Also when you work with a new jewler consider letting them guide some/all of the design process bc I’m not convinced that head is securely attached to the shank for long term wear especially with such a large stone. All it needs is to catch and that whole head could pop off with such a small area of connection.

 

[Jobis]

I think if you take it to a second jeweler to fix, it most likely will not be a budget option. Most craftspeople charge more for fixing others mistakes.
Plus - if it doesn’t go right, neither vendor will claim ownership, and point to the other. And you’ll still have to pay that second jeweler for their labor for trying.

Is your ring anything out of the ordinary from what your jeweler typically produces? Does most of their work use stock peg heads for calibrated stones and yours isn’t?

Are you happy with the rest of the ring’s look- including where the basket meets the shank? If you are -
I’d be tempted to talk with the owner themselves and have the macro pictures available - have the owner look at the ring with a loupe and ask him if he thinks it’s ok. If he again takes you to his bench person, instead of answering you that tells you something. If the owner pushes this off on the bench to answer - the bench person has already deemed this fine. Even though you’d be starting fresh and having to wait - that’s better, big picture, imo.

I think it’d be interesting to hear from someone in the trade what kind of work would need to be done to each prong to make it ok. Reshaping the seat, setting and polishing - or more than ‘just’ that as in retipping/needing new metal.

And just for the prong issue illustration:

Thanks this helps

 

[Jobis]

To not quote a long post:
I dont think its salvageable. Part of the problem is that it just does not fit the stone and is not going to without a ton of work.
It would be expensive, maybe as much as a new one to get someone willing to redo it in my area.

"
A poster recently said:
“It appears some posters on PS think there is one set of standards for expensive high-end rings, and another set of standards for lower-end settings.”"
I do.
In low cost rings say taking a stock setting and pop a stone it it I expect the stone to be secure, but the fit, refinement and finish I would not expect the same level as a full custom piece designed for that stone.
The way this stone is set is unacceptable in a $35 silver and cz ring.

Ya i

This is a recipe to lose the stone. It cannot be worn as it is. Demand refund. Have it remade somewhere else. Don’t keep banging your head in this wall.

Also when you work with a new jewler consider letting them guide some/all of the design process bc I’m not convinced that head is securely attached to the shank for long term wear especially with such a large stone. All it needs is to catch and that whole head could pop off with such a small area of connection.

Ya i am not 100% satisfied with the rest of the ring (diamond is floating in cage I wanted it at the bottom of it). But my fiancée loves it as is, like really loves it. So it seems like (besides the security issues being fixed) like a me problem. I was very anal about it being exactly what I wanted but it was taking too long.

I do not have the budget to go to a place that would charge a ton more. This place was one of the cheaper options. I guess that’s reflected in my experience

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

David Klass is very reasonable with his costs.
If she wants to wear it as is, put some clear tape over the stone.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’m glad your fiance loves it but hopefully she can also accept that it not being safe to wear. She would probably feel awful if the stone was lost.

 

[Jobis]

I think if you take it to a second jeweler to fix, it most likely will not be a budget option. Most craftspeople charge more for fixing others mistakes.
Plus - if it doesn’t go right, neither vendor will claim ownership, and point to the other. And you’ll still have to pay that second jeweler for their labor for trying.

Is your ring anything out of the ordinary from what your jeweler typically produces? Does most of their work use stock peg heads for calibrated stones and yours isn’t?

Are you happy with the rest of the ring’s look- including where the basket meets the shank? If you are -
I’d be tempted to talk with the owner themselves and have the macro pictures available - have the owner look at the ring with a loupe and ask him if he thinks it’s ok. If he again takes you to his bench person, instead of answering you that tells you something. If the owner pushes this off on the bench to answer - the bench person has already deemed this fine. Even though you’d be starting fresh and having to wait - that’s better, big picture, imo.

I think it’d be interesting to hear from someone in the trade what kind of work would need to be done to each prong to make it ok. Reshaping the seat, setting and polishing - or more than ‘just’ that as in retipping/needing new metal.

And just for the prong issue illustration:

I am getting mixed signals, because I posted in jewelers subreddit and everyone who commented said it would be an easy fix. But others here and elsewhere have said it needs significant fixes that aren’t simple/easy.

Anyone else have experience or insight here?

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

I'm on reddit every day but I would not rely on what I read there.

 

[Lookinagain]

Why don't you send photos to David Klass, show him the issues, ask what he thinks and whether he can make it right, or if not, the cost to remake the setting. Without this kind of information, it will be hard to make a decision. David's prices are very reasonable. Not sure what you paid the jeweler to make this ring and how much a refund would get you to the total cost of a remake by DK, but I would certainly ask both questions. Repair or remake and the cost of each.
As for your fiance, maybe she needs to be made to understand that the workmanship is shoddy and that the ring is not safe. Would she rather wait a month for things to be made right, or would she rather lose the diamond at some point in the future, or risk damaging a tip of the stone.

 

[MissGotRocks]

I am getting mixed signals, because I posted in jewelers subreddit and everyone who commented said it would be an easy fix. But others here and elsewhere have said it needs significant fixes that aren’t simple/easy.

Anyone else have experience or insight here?

Once seats have been cut into the inside of prongs for the diamond to sit in, I would not want to reuse it again as it is wrong. There is also some concern about the head of the setting - which you refer to as the cage - being a peg head. That means it may just be soldered onto the shank of the ring. It would be better if it were actually incorporated into the shank and that would be done when the ring was made.

Take the ring to a reputable jeweler with a good bench. You don't have to decide between internet forum advice - find a professional and take it from there. The first person or company you have dealt with is far from professional. No one worth their salt would send out a ring in that condition.