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Need Help: 12000 budget- is it worth it?

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Txdiamond

Rough_Rock
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Aug 20, 2014
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http://www.gia.edu/cs/Satellite?reportno=2111399230&childpagename=GIA%2FPage%2FReportCheck&pagename=GIA%2FDispatcher&c=Page&cid=1355954554547

Vs


http://www.gia.edu/cs/Satellite?reportno=5151920076&c=Page&childpagename=GIA%2FPage%2FReportCheck&pagename=GIA%2FDispatcher&cid=1355954554547&encryptedString=FED938CAAB81DA9829FB7BC1A99DF742


Which would you choose? Are they worth 12000 being quoted? Should I be worried about cavity?


Please advise.


Also thank y'all for pushing me away from the egl diamond I posted earlier.

Couldn't make this purchase without y'all's expertise.

Take care
 
Pass on both.

Here's a good guideline from Todd Gray of what you should be looking for:

Total depth between 59 – 61.8%
Table diameter between 53 – 58%
Crown angle between 34.3 – 34.8 degrees
Pavilion angle between 40.6 – 40.9 degrees
Girdle thickness between thin and slightly thick
Culet: AGS pointed or GIA none

If you're in Texas, look at whiteflash.com
They'll steer you right.
 
Brian Gavin is also in Texas. Houston to be exact.

Also please read the below, and follow the links and study them as well.

The entire purpose of faceting a diamond is to reflect light.
How well or how poorly a diamond does this determines how beautiful it is.
How well a diamond performs is determined by the angles and cutting. This is why we say cut is king.
No other factor: not color, not clarity has as much of an impact on the appearance of a diamond as its cut. An ideal H will out white a poorly cut F. And GIA Ex is not enough. And you must stick to GIA and AGS only. EGL is a bad option: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/egl-certification-are-any-of-them-ok.142863/[/URL]
So how to we ensure that we have the right angles and cutting to get the light performance we want?
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-cut
Well one method is to start with a GIA Ex, and then apply the HCA to it. YOU DO NOT USE HCA for AGS0 stones.
https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/holloway-cut-advisor
The HCA is a rejection tool. Not a selection tool. It uses 4 data points to make a rudimentary call on how the diamond may perform.
If the diamond passes then you know that you are in the right zone in terms of angles for light performance. Under 2 is a pass. Under 2.5-2.1 is a maybe. 2.6 and over is a no. No score 2 and under is better than any other.
Is that enough? Not really.
So what you need is a way to check actual light performance of your actual stone.
That's what an idealscope image does. https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/firescope-idealscope
It shows you how and wear your diamond is reflecting light, how well it is going at it, and where you are losing light return. That is why you won't see us recommending Blue Nile, as they do not provide idealscope images for their diamonds. BGD, James Allen, GOG, HPD, ERD and WF do.

The Idealscope is the 'selection tool'. Not the HCA.
So yes, with a GIA stone you need the idealscope images. Or you can buy an idealscope yourself and take it in to the jeweler you are working with to check the stones yourself. Or if you have a good return policy (full refund minimum 7 days) then you can buy the idealscope, buy the stone, and do it at home.


Now if you want to skip all that... stick to AGS0 stones and then all you have to do is pick color and clarity and you know you have a great performing diamond. Because AGS has already done the checking for you. That's why they trade at a premium.
 
Hi OP, have you tried the diamond search tool on the Resources tab? I looked for 1.4-1.6 cts. G-H, Vs2-Si1 and found 4 pages of options. Looking through those, I sorted a bit and found many that could be possibilities, but generally speaking noticed it'll be a find to get G/VS2 with a 7.5mm spread (just over a 1.5 cts dimension) with no fluoro and classic Tolk Ideal specs.

I found many more that have either one or two considerations (compromises):
1. Med to strong or vs fluoro
2. 60/60 proportions to get better spread to 7.5mm
3. H/Si1
4. Vendors are B2C, Soloman Bro., Adiamor, Union Diamond.
5. Spread more like 7.3mm, not 7.5mm, which is a visible difference.

Have you seen enough diamonds to know if you can safely go to H color? I have a J to get my 2 cts, so I think H is wonderful! An eye clean Si1 will look the same as a VS2 (it's just one step down). Lmk how you feel about these considerations and I'll try to post options for you. You have a healthy budget and you will get something very stunning!
 
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