Men''s Suits-- FI needs help! I''m exasperated!

[goldenstar]

FI is desperately in needs of some suits. Not cheapy and not high-end, something in the middle.

Problem: FI has well developed arms, chest and shoulders. "Athletic cut" still won''t work. The difference between his chest and waist is more than 8 inches (This is the "drop" for athletic cuts).

Where can we find reasonable made to measure suits? What about suit separates? Does that even exist? While we''re at it, what about dress shirts? He drowns in the ones that fit his chest and arms.

I feel like this is going to be a costly problem. Maybe he''s better off shirtless...

 

[Deelight]

I am not to sure about suits but has your FI tried on European cut shirts? Van Heusen and Pierre Cardin both do these with the P.C shirts being a slighter slimmer fit through the mid section that might be an option otherwise you might have to get shirts and suits altered.

Do you have a good suit shop near you when my FF last looked for a suit we went to a little shop in our local shop and the guy there really knew how to fit a suit he looks a million dollars in it .

 

[pennquaker09]

Date: 7/23/2008 12:25:07 AM
Author:goldenstar
FI is desperately in needs of some suits. Not cheapy and not high-end, something in the middle.


Problem: FI has well developed arms, chest and shoulders. ''Athletic cut'' still won''t work. The difference between his chest and waist is more than 8 inches (This is the ''drop'' for athletic cuts).


Where can we find reasonable made to measure suits? What about suit separates? Does that even exist? While we''re at it, what about dress shirts? He drowns in the ones that fit his chest and arms.


I feel like this is going to be a costly problem. Maybe he''s better off shirtless...

Well, reasonable and made to measure don''t really gel, made to measure suits can be costly.

I think one of the best places to look is Brooks Brothers. My partner, Nate, is extremely fit and he has broad shoulders and a smaller waist, like your FI. What he''s going to have to do is have his suits altered. Particularly, the jackets need to be taken in at the sides. He need to buy suits that fit, not a size too big and fit guys look better with two button jackets.

Dressing well does cost a little money, I won''t lie to you. The suits that fit better: Ralph Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Armani cost a lot. Personally, I like Hugo Boss, Jil Sander, and sometimes Purple Label, but the Hugo and Sander suits are made to be very slim.

Nate''s favorite suit from Brooks Brothers is probably the Golden Fleece.

Right now, Nordstrom is having the anniversary sale and that would be a great place to look because they have Joseph Abboud, Hickey Freeman, among other designers on sale. Like, some of these suits usually run about 1400 and up.

Fit is only going to be achieved when he gets it altered to his body. So if he doesn''t get a made to measure suit, he''s going to have to find an excellent tailor. A man''s tailor should be his best friend.

 

[AmberGretchen]

My DH has EXACTLY that problem - very broad shoulders and arms, and little tiny waist (he did a lot of bodybuilding/weightlifting in college and it emphasized it even more). My DH is also pretty short, so that complicates things further. He has had a very difficult time with suits and shirts, but he has recently found some excellent options that work really nicely.

He had one semi-custom suit made at Nordstrom''s that he is really pleased with - it fits him beautifully, and the price was really reasonable. The brand is called Hart Schaffner Marx - its the lowest end custom option at Nordie''s, called "exclusively for you." It costs approximately $800 depending on fabric, which is a similar cost to Joseph Abboud suit off the rack. DH summarized that they have different jacket lengths and tapers available, separate jacket and pants sizing, and full complement of alterations (anything that''s needed) included in the price. But it doesn''t go to the level of things like the position or size of the armholes on the suit jacket.

Nordie''s also has a made-to-measure program, which offers an even higher level of customization, which runs about $1000, which is what DH plans to do for his next suit to answer the slight problems he had with this most recent one, mostly having to do with the armholes sitting too low and the jacket not being short enough (both problems because of his height). But let me emphasize the suit still looks wonderful on him and is miles ahead of any of the off the rack suits he had gotten before. Friends and family noticed the difference as well.

For shirts, DH really likes pre-made options from Thomas Pink. They sometimes have to be additionally tapered, but are generally cut much slimmer than the American makers. Interestingly, the one Thomas Pink shirt we purchased in London was slimmer-cut than any of the ones we''ve gotten him here in the US, even though the styles are the same. They have beautiful fabrics and wonderful craftsmanship, so probably worth looking into.

Men''s Wearhouse, surprisingly enough, has a decent custom shirt program - reasonably priced, and DH was happy with his result there, so definitely budget-friendly and worth considering. Nordie''s has John W Nordstrom and Robert Talbott custom shirts. The Talbott are more expensive, approximately $200+ for a shirt, John W Nordstrom slightly less, around $150. You get shirt length, sleeve length, and shirt taper customized on those, but not armhole position.

 

[moremoremore]

Before you go the made to measure route, I'm going to have to say tailoring....it will likely be a lot cheaper in the long run....Has he tried Banana Republic separates ? But I see above that you're talking more expensive suits...They are more modern fitting with straight legs and no pleats and the all weather wool ones are super well made and great quality fabric that is lasting and lasting...If you have an outlet, that's a great place to start....it will likely be cheaper than getting custom suits...we arew not $1000 suit people....We just don't see the need but it's cool if that's your thing...
...I like the BR suits for work and ... don't laugh...JC Penny has some great made expensive looking suits (the Worthington line)...I dunno, hubby looks darn hot each morning in his $250 suit LOL

Do you have a Syms by you? They carry all the top line suits...so even with alterations it might be a ton cheaper

 

[goldenstar]

Wow, thanks for the tips. Very helpful.

I think we''re going to check out Brooks Brothers and then Nordstrom. He needs to start with one basic and versatile suit that can carry him through the weddings we are invited to this year.

There''s a Hickey Freeman store in San Francisco that I think would be a good place to get a suit for our wedding. We alloted a good chunk of our budget to hia attire. If any of you are familiar with the Bay Area, I''m also thinking about going to Wilkes Bashford. However, that might be WAY out of our league.

 

[pennquaker09]

Date: 7/23/2008 12:50:09 PM
Author: goldenstar
Wow, thanks for the tips. Very helpful.


I think we''re going to check out Brooks Brothers and then Nordstrom. He needs to start with one basic and versatile suit that can carry him through the weddings we are invited to this year.


There''s a Hickey Freeman store in San Francisco that I think would be a good place to get a suit for our wedding. We alloted a good chunk of our budget to hia attire. If any of you are familiar with the Bay Area, I''m also thinking about going to Wilkes Bashford. However, that might be WAY out of our league.

Well, make sure that one of the suits that he gets is gray. You would not believe how wonderfully versatile a gray suit is.

Since you''re in SF, definitely step into a Banana Republic.

 

[jcrow]

for shirts, look into fitted ones. hubs has to get those and they make a big difference in terms of fit.
some brands to look out for on the lower end are:

jeffery beene
van hussen
bcbg
liz claiborne (called modern fit)

you can also check out the shirts at men''s wearhouse calld pronto uomo. they can tailor them very nicely to fit. they are also wrinkle-free and decent quality.


for suits, hub has good luck with mens wearhouse. he wears the non-pleated pants which can be hard to find. calvin klein is the one he gets. he has to do a lot of tailoring, but it''s really worth it in the end. gives him that clean lined polished look.

 

[AmberGretchen]

Ooh if you''re near SF, DEFINITELY check out the Nordstrom downtown. They have some really good people there. My DH had a good experience with a guy there named Roger - he was(is) normally the Armani person, but he has a good eye for fit and he will take a ton of time to make sure that whatever you get fits perfectly. I really think Nordstrom is perfect for this - good selection, and more important, KILLER customer service - if its not right, they will make it right.

 

[violet02]

Date: 7/24/2008 12:05:45 AM
Author: AmberGretchen
Ooh if you''re near SF, DEFINITELY check out the Nordstrom downtown. They have some really good people there. My DH had a good experience with a guy there named Roger - he was(is) normally the Armani person, but he has a good eye for fit and he will take a ton of time to make sure that whatever you get fits perfectly. I really think Nordstrom is perfect for this - good selection, and more important, KILLER customer service - if its not right, they will make it right.

Ditto on what Amber says here... My FI has an athletic build and he got a beautiful Armani suit from Nordtroms (at Valley Fair). I took my friend to get his suit from the downtown SF Nordstroms and they did a great job on his Hugo Boss as well. And yup, killer customer service.

 

[pennquaker09]

I forgot about Bluefly. He could order a suit from Bluefly and just have it tailored, would save him a lot.

http://www.bluefly.com/pages/browse/list.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2088863015