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Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cutters

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funkybass

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
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Short Version:
1) Does it matter if a GIA diamond is graded in the US or overseas?
2) Does it matter who cuts the diamond?


Long Version:
I'm in the process of shopping for an engagement ring. I have been looking online, researching, and doing my homework so that I could be prepared when I went to see the jeweler. Prices may be better online, but I wanted to at least try supporting local businesses before going to the cheaper rings online.

So I go to the jeweler, and he tells me two things which both seemed odd because I hadn't heard either mentioned in any diamond buying guide or during the course of my research. First, I asked him whether his diamonds were certified, and he said most all of them were, but he could send off for certification of any stone that wasn't if I was interested in a certain diamond. In particular I mentioned that I was looking for GIA certification. After mentioning this, he goes into a sales pitch about how the GIA certified diamonds he has were all certified in the US. In explaining why this should matter to me, he said that since GIA now has labs in other countries, particularly India, that if I buy a GIA stone online then I am probably getting one from India, which has lower standards/quality control than GIA US diamonds. Now in researching diamond grading/certificates, I know that there is a big difference between EGL USA and EGL International/Israel, but this was the first time I had heard anybody claim there was a difference in GIA labs that warranted only buying GIA US (and paying more).

The second issue that sounded extremely fishy was who cut the diamond. He said that all his diamonds were cut in Belgium, which is the most expensive place to have a diamond cut - $800 to be precise; whereas diamonds bought online or elsewhere are typically cut in India or some other place, and cost $35-50 to be cut. I pressed for more information as to why who cut the diamond should matter, because in my mind, if a diamond is graded an as an Excellent cut by GIA then it is an Excellent cut regardless of who cut it. He compared it to running a car through a car wash vs. having a car professionally detailed - i.e., the end result is the same, but one is going to look more brilliant than the other. In this case, he claimed that the Belgian (more expensive) cutters create a more brilliant stone than the cheaper cutters, that will maintain its brilliance longer. There was also some bit in there about diamonds getting dirty fast, but have Belgian cutter diamonds helps keep them shiny (however, I'm not quite sure about that part because I had become very incredulous at this point and started to zone out). Maybe he's right, after all, I'm not a jeweler; however, I am still failing to see the logic in how two stones that are identical in all respects except who cut them, can be different enough to warrant an $800 price difference.

My gut tells me that this guy is just trying to get an extra grand out of the deal - but I'm here to learn and be corrected if I'm wrong, so I would sincerely appreciate any advice/input from the board. Thanks!
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

sounds like a load of bullcrap to me. GIA have offices worldwide but the people they employ have all been to their training school and use the same standards. plus i didn't know you could even tell where a stone got graded unless you sent it there specifically yourself. i doubt he did that as most jewelers just source from a wholesaler.

as for different people cutting it? sounds racist if you ask me. how would a belgian make it shinier?? that would show up in the grading in terms of polish and surface graining regardless of who cut it and where. of course some people are better at cutting and that's where we see our ideal cuts, but that has nothing to do with location. and maintain brilliance longer? i didn't know it went away :errrr:

summary: just evaulate the stone based on its beauty, stats, and price. and tell this guy to go stick it.

p.s. out of curiosity went to GIA's website to check the fees for grading a stone...standard all around the world, they just charge it in different currencies depending on which office you send it to (i.e. if you're in Hong Kong they'll charge you the equivalent fee in Hong Kong dollars)
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

Yeah that's what I thought as well - i.e., that GIA is GIA, and the difference/quality in who does the cutting shows up in the stats, not in the country of origin. Thanks for your feedback!
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

I just want to add that well-cut and poorly cut diamonds can both get dirty...not really sure what he meant by that??
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

I will just say that I purchased my first cushion through an online vendor and it was cut in Belgium.

I am not sure about GIA variances but that is the first time I have heard. I do know that EGL-USA is stricter than EGL in other countries. I just don't know if that applies to GIA but I suspect GIA is more strict overall with consistency.
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

CharmyPoo|1323482810|3078281 said:
I will just say that I purchased my first cushion through an online vendor and it was cut in Belgium.

I am not sure about GIA variances but that is the first time I have heard. I do know that EGL-USA is stricter than EGL in other countries. I just don't know if that applies to GIA but I suspect GIA is more strict overall with consistency.

how did you found out that it was cut in Belgium?
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

My stone was cut by Paul Slegers who is located in Antwerp so I know where my stone came from. But it's the cutter not the location that makes a difference in the quality of cut. I am lucky to know who cut my stone but most people do not know the cutter or location ESPECIALLY if the stone isn't certified.
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

If you'd like to buy an excellent stone at a fair price, I'd suggest checking out Good Old Gold, WhiteFlash, Brian Gavin, etc. A lot of us found that local places just had a small or no selection of excellent and ideal cut stones. And I'll agree with the others, a GIA graded stone is a GIA graded stone and it really doesn't matter where it was cut!
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

Industry-speak has it that some GIA-graded diamonds graded in India have been re-examined against their certs after landing in the US and have come up short of expectation. The GIA is not perfect and those employed by them are not robots, nor are they beyond reproach in how their opinions are expressed on documents. Money has a way of bending rules where there are opportunities to do so.

As for the cutting remarks, absolute nonsense. The jeweller gets a wedgie on that one.
 
Re: Is my jeweler being honest? -Questions about GIA and Cut

The ethnicity of the cutter is obviously irrelevant, as is their address. There are fabulous cutters in India, there are hacks in Belgium and visa versa. This gets complicated by the fact that a good cutting house can occasionally put out bad work and the bad ones sometimes get lucky and make a fireball. “The solution is simple enough. Evaluate the stone on it’s own merits. Belgian workers cost more than Indian workers in nearly every case but it’s nothing like the differential you’re being quoted. By all means pursue good prices but bear in mind that the best craftsmen and women are rarely the cheapest.

He’s trying to play it both ways. Beat up the cutter but not the retailer. The ‘online’ jewelers are no more or less than a merchant in someone elses neighborhood. Most of them are pretty price aggressive, but they are doing the same things HE is doing in terms of sourcing their goods. They’re just willing to do it for less money (usually). There’s nothing about a merchant advertising online that makes their goods better or worse than any other way of advertising and, rather like the cutter, it’s not their address that makes them worth considering or rejecting. It’s about the character of the people behind the keyboard/counter. Start with that and you’ll be fine, without it and you’re toast.
 
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