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Is it worth it to overpay to get a very specific setting?

kb1gra

kb1gra

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
1,118
Here is my dilemma.

Many years ago, I tried on a particular ring at a particular jeweler. The ring was absolutely perfect. Years went by, I got a different engagement ring, all was well.

However, I still really want that ring and as I was just promoted to sr. vice president, I'd like to purchase one for a little token.

The problem is, I've never seen the setting anywhere else, and they do not set outside stones except in exception/heirloom situations. The good news is that they do use AGS000 diamonds. The bad news is, they are overpriced to varying degrees (most are I, SI1). The price for a .61tdw (.41ctr, .10 sides each) is $3395. The settings are simple but they're not stock and a lot of the setting details are important to me - stone height, shape of the bezels, shank width. It's a very sleek, low profile ring, and I don't want big stones, but I do want them to be perfect superideals.

Is it worth overpaying to some degree to get the setting that seems to only be available here? I am worried if I try to have someone replicate it, that some part of it will always be "off" to me. I do have an original piece from this jeweler that belongs to my mom that I could take detailed measurements of if needed for a design.
 
I mean, if this is the only place with the design you like, then you are paying for their design esthetic, and I think it's important to weigh that element of jewelry appropriately. So is it really "overpaying"? That's subjective.

Also I do think its important to think about the ethics of asking someone to replicate the work of another designer so exactly that it is down to the fraction of the millimeter... just something to think about.
 
Yes, I do think it is worth paying what you are comfortable with for the setting you want. However, I am picky about my diamonds and I would have to LOVE and see the diamond first before I committed to it.

Can we see a pic of the setting?
 
I think it is worth it, especially because it sounds like you could spend a decent amount of money and not end up with exactly what you want, in which case you are out more money overall, you know? But pics of the setting would be helpful.

That said, maybe they would be willing to negotiate with you a little bit? If you told them that for X price you can get X super ideal stones from X vendor, so you are weighing your options (or have to convince your husband that going with this jeweler is the best option, or something like that, haha).
 
Yes. Otherwise you’ll end up spending more in the long run on settings that you thought were “close enough”.
Been there, done that :lol:
 
Are you sticking with a stone of that size, or will you be upgrading that too? Only asking because if they are slightly overpriced on a smaller stone, then that % will feel like a lot of $$ on a larger stone.

There are a few options I could see:

1. Buy stone + setting from the local guy. Pay the premiums.

2. Have an honest conversation about the stone. Let them know you understand the setting is proprietary but you'd like to them to work with you on the stone pricing and/or ability to bring in an outside stone and have set should you choose something unique like a super ideal by WF, BGD, HPD, etc.

3. Buy the setting from the local guy. Buy the stone elsewhere (maybe WF, BGD, HPD, etc) and pay their minimal fees ($150-200) to have WF, BGD, HPD, etc set the center stone.

4. Go custom and have the setting re-done elsewhere. But sounds like you've fallen in love with the setting as-is, and it's important it be an identical copy. I'd have a hard time asking someone to copy a design without being willing to make some changes, etc to make the design your own. Then if it doesn't go right, you'll kick yourself and probably end up buying the setting you wanted in the first place.
 
It really depends on the design, and how badly you want it. Pics would help!
 
This is the setting. It's deceptively simple, but the proportions of it are really important to me including the very slight overlap of the bezels and the small openings in the gallery. I think it's so significant to me because my mom has the same ring, but hers is green stones that I don't care for or I'd just take hers :)

It's from Cross in Maine, and they told me in pretty much no uncertain terms that they only do complete rings - no making settings for other stones, no setting stones from elsewhere. I'm sure they would work with me on getting something in a higher color than the I/J they typically stock, but the price goes up commensurate I'm sure.

I may let this one go, just because I want a better stone. There's other fish in the sea :)

upload_2019-4-12_13-58-11.png
 
bezel-set-diamond-three-stone-ring-in-18k-white-gold-002.png This is as close as I could find online. Center stone is 1ct, sides are 20 pointers.
 
I feel like DK has made something similar in setting style, but I'm not remembering who it belongs to.
 
It does not seem out of line.

Digressing... BIG BROTHER
 
If your really want that particular ring and can afford it then I think it's worth it. Its price is only one of several factors and not necessarily the most important factor. :twirl:
 
I think you might be setting yourself up for disappointment depending on how intent you are on getting that particular setting. The proportions matter. If you are going to drive the designer AND yourself crazy then you really won't enjoy the ring, or the design process as much if you replicate. I can think of a couple of recent PSers who tried this and drove themselves a little batty. If you want a PARTICULAR ring, I'd pay for it, and work really closely to make sure that the stones were exactly what you want. That seems like the easier way to go about this.
 
I am a big believer in waiting and buying what you *really* want rather than settling based on price and then either settling and never feeling all that satisfied, or spending more in the long run by going back and buying what you wanted all along.

This is a BIG promotion. You deserve it. Get your ring (and pay the little bit more for the better quality stone).
 
It sounds like you've wanted this specific ring for a long time. I would just buy it. A substitute probably won't satisfy you.
 
Ooh, I loved trying on rings at the Cross shop in Portland -- very well executed, finely finished, felt so comfy on my hand. I periodically toy with the idea of purchasing the Maine tourmaline version of their Newcastle ring because I'm so fond of the purposefully incomplete bezels, the way the "empty" segments of the side stones' bezels nestle into the shank.
Cross Jewelers Maine tourmaline Newcastle ring.jpeg
So you won't see me discourage you from making the splurge :appl:
 
That setting has a very scholdt feel to it. That's another possibility.
 
PintoBean said:
That setting has a very scholdt feel to it. That's another possibility.
Click to expand...
it's funny that you say that because they are resetting my solitaire for me as we speak. I was thinking about seeing if they could make something close if I sourced the stones, but they're very good at open galleries and this one is deliberately closed. I'll have to ask Michelle what she thinks.
 
MollyMalone said:
Ooh, I loved trying on rings at the Cross shop in Portland -- very well executed, finely finished, felt so comfy on my hand. I periodically toy with the idea of purchasing the Maine tourmaline version of their Newcastle ring because I'm so fond of the purposefully incomplete bezels, the way the "empty" segments of the side stones' bezels nestle into the shank.
Cross Jewelers Maine tourmaline Newcastle ring.jpeg
So you won't see me discourage you from making the splurge :appl:
Click to expand...
This is actually the ring my mom has, but hers is a 5 stone with 2 white and 3 green stones. Unfortunately I am a blue girl, but the sapphire ones are gorgeous too.
 
I wanted to add that you wont be overpaying if you love the piece and factor in the price per wear.

I overpaid for ALL my pieces except for my love bracelet bc I dont wear them.
 
$3395 including the AGS ideal cut diamonds is not bad at all. You might be able to save a little by having it made elsewhere, but really, I'd only consider that if I was talking about a significant savings, such as a $5000 ring for $3500, perhaps.

Cross carries settings made by many other companies. Are you certain this is one they make in house?

My personal qualm would be not being able to choose my own diamonds. I have a feeling you can find that setting elsewhere, honestly. And maybe the exact same one. I am certain one can be made like it.
 
Oh geez, I'm sorry -- I forgot to say in my previous post, CONGRATULATIONS on your promotion!
 
Congratulations! You've had this particular ring from this store in the back of your mind for years and if it is going to give you joy, I think you should go for the exact thing you want even if it is arguably overpriced. Having a custom ring made elsewhere or searching for another jeweler with something similar can be a huge time suck, so maybe consider the value of your time in the equation as well.
 
When I first came to PS, there was a ring I wanted that I tried on at a B&M, I still think about it til this day, it was not high quality, but the feel and look and everything was just right for me at the time. However, I ended going custom, and while it turned out beautiful, it was not quite right, didn't feel comfortable the way the other ring was. Anyways, had I bought that ring, I probably wouldn't have been here all these years, curse of PS and a blessing at the same time.

I also have a recent experience just last week. I bought a band LOVE LOVE the aesthetics and feel of the band -I *know* I overpaid but its a particular designer band (not super well known). I thought of having it recreated in a different gemstone and change a couple of things and I know I can do it for less. HOWEVER, I will just get the other gemstone/diamond band from the same designer as is, because I want to ensure that I keep the feel and aesthetic the way it is now, so in short. YES, sometimes its worth it to overpay to get what you want right the first time.
 
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That ring looks familiar... Like an Adwar or Unique setting?
 
In my experience, it’s worth paying a bit more to get what you want. Whenever I try to go less expensive, I end up spending way more money. It’s like trying to scratch an itch ... try to save money and don’t quite scratch the itch ... then keep spending because the itch is still there ... the itch doesn’t go away until finally caving in and to get what was wanted in the first place, lol.
 
D&T said:
That ring looks familiar... Like an Adwar or Unique setting?
Click to expand...
In many years of searching I have never found one. I think I found one close at a die struck maker whose name is now escaping me, but I have never found one like it at the usual suspects. I’ve looked for their other styles as well without much success. Low set diamonds have not been the trend in a long time.

Sholdt is close in general aesthetic so I may approach them about doing this. I like their rings even if it’s not exact.
 
Hey there @kb1gra ! I have loved Cross settings for a loooong time. Very many of them are Jabel settings. Jabel are die struck, American made. Check out the Jabel website, and also Bella's Fine Jewlery, they sell Jabel. Jabel can also mix and match different types of heads to shanks. For example Cross' Victory ring is a Jabel, and many others are as I said are a mix and match of different shanks with heads. Bella's is very accomodating with pricing and ability to customise through Jabel.
 
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