I''m kind of lost, please help me with advice!

[chloenkitty]

Ugh, my head hurts from trying to figure out what kind of diamond to ask for, especially in the cut category. If I explain what I''m looking for, can some please give me advice, especially on how to ask for the cut.

I am looking for a round diamond 2 to 2.5 carats. I''d like it to be a nice white clean color to the naked eye and the clarity the same, clean to the naked eye. I have seen some very nice diamonds clean to the eye that had a black carbon dot inside or a feather inside only visible to with a loop. That''s ok to me, I''d like a larger strone and can definately accept a flaw inside only seen under the loop. My problem is I don''t know how to go to a jewler and say I want this type of depth, etc. Ive read up about it, but it''s just not sinking in. I think I''m ok with asking about color and clarity, it seems as though I''d be happy with a VS2 to SI2 and a color table of G through J. Does that sound right with what I''m explaining? But then how to I ask for what depth I''m looking for. If it helps to know how I want to set this diamond, it will be put in a split shank micro pave band with a micro pave halo.

Thanks in advance for helping someone who is pretty confused about all this and doesn''t want to be taken for a ride. Times are tough these days money wise. Thank you.

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 7/22/2009 3:00:52 PM
Author:chloenkitty
Ugh, my head hurts from trying to figure out what kind of diamond to ask for, especially in the cut category. If I explain what I'm looking for, can some please give me advice, especially on how to ask for the cut.

I am looking for a round diamond 2 to 2.5 carats. I'd like it to be a nice white clean color to the naked eye and the clarity the same, clean to the naked eye. I have seen some very nice diamonds clean to the eye that had a black carbon dot inside or a feather inside only visible to with a loop. That's ok to me, I'd like a larger strone and can definately accept a flaw inside only seen under the loop. My problem is I don't know how to go to a jewler and say I want this type of depth, etc. Ive read up about it, but it's just not sinking in. I think I'm ok with asking about color and clarity, it seems as though I'd be happy with a VS2 to SI2 and a color table of G through J. Does that sound right with what I'm explaining? But then how to I ask for what depth I'm looking for. If it helps to know how I want to set this diamond, it will be put in a split shank micro pave band with a micro pave halo.

Thanks in advance for helping someone who is pretty confused about all this and doesn't want to be taken for a ride. Times are tough these days money wise. Thank you.

Hi Chloe,

Your requirements sound fine, here is some advice which might help you, you could print it out to refer to.

Look for diamonds with an AGS or GIA report. Concentrate mainly on AGS0 and GIA Excellent cut grade initially. With the GIA Excellents, run these through the Holloway Cut Advisor to make sure any contenders score below 2. This cut grade is broad and can allow for some less desirable angle combos to get the Ex cut grade.

Here is a cheat sheet you can use as a guide to find well cut round diamonds.

depth - 60 - 62% - although my personal preference is to allow up to 62.4%
table - 54- 57%
crown angle - 34- 35 degrees
pavilion angle - 40.6- 41 degrees
girdle - avoid extremes, look for thin to slightly thick, thin to medium etc
polish and symmetry - very good and above


note - with crown and pavilion angles at the shallower ends ( CA 34- PA 40.6) and steeper ( CA 35- PA 41) check to make sure these angles complement in that particular diamond - eyeballs, Idealscope, trusted vendor input - check as appropriate!

From expert John Pollard.
As the above implies, configurations depend on each other. A little give here can still work with a little take there.

With that said, here's a "Cliff's Notes" for staying near Tolkowsky/ideal angles with GIA reports (their numbers are rounded): A crown angle of 34.0, 34.5 or 35.0 is usually safe with a 40.8 pavilion angle. If pavilion angle = 40.6 lean toward a 34.5-35.0 crown. If pavilion angle = 41 lean toward a 34.0-34.5 crown.

GIA "EX" in cut is great at its heart, but it ranges a bit wider than some people prefer, particularly in deep combinations (pavilion > 41 with crown > 35).

With any SI clarity grades, make sure if clouds are noted on the report as grade making inclusions, that they aren't impacting brilliance. Get an independant appraiser to check. It is grade setting clouds in SI clarities that are sometimes an issue, don't worry about " clouds not shown or additional clouds not shown" in the comments section of a report. The time to be concerned is if you see clouds drawn on the diamond diagram or if you see this -

" clarity grade is based on clouds which are not shown." Also ask if you can check out any SI clarity stones away from any store lighting to make sure that they meet your expectations for ' eyecleanliness', inclusions can jump out in some lights and not in others, sometimes bright jewellery store lights can be deceptive both for beauty and inclusions.

Hope this helps!