esumsea
Shiny_Rock
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2007
- Messages
- 144
Hello Everyone!
This is my first post and I would trully GREATLY APPRECIATE
any help, comments, suggestions, criticism (constructive hopefully) or advice that any of you will offer. Please help an indecisive fastedious person bording on OCD make a decision He will be comfortable for the rest of his life. (Is that possible?) I have read books and info on this site. I have shopped the downtown Miami diamond wholesalers. I hae used price scope and this is what I am looking for
I have put reasoning behindspecs)
Shape: Emerald
Carat: Minimum .88 (Preferred 1.1 or above)
Color: D - F4 (Preferred E) NO Florescence NO COLOR ENHANCEMENT please run a colorimeter tape
Symmetry: Excellent to very good (Symmetry is very important in Emeralds because it has less facets, so the most brilliance you can get from the symmetry the better)
Cut: Minimum Class 2a Very Good including all angles from best to worst NO WARPING! (Preferred class 1 Premium Cut)
-Table: 58 to 64% (the lower the better)
-Crown Angle: 32-35 degrees
-Crown Height: 11.5 – 16.2 %
-Pavillion Angle: (43.5 – 45.5) For Emerald 43.3-46.9 degrees is acceptable, 45:05 is perfect
-Pavillion Depth: 47.5-53.1%
***Measure all angles or ask minimum maximum pavilion and crown angles***
-Total Depth: 58 to 62% (58.5 to 61 % Preferred)Emeralds can be cut shallower with no ill effects. The reason I am going shallow is because that makes the other portions of the diamond (Length Width) larger. In addition, my girlfriend does not like rings that sit high.
-Length to Width Ratio (Proportion): 1.35 – 1.45 I want to avoid the bow tie effect Cuellar reports that occurs with Emerald cutts with proportions less than 1.30 and greater than 1.75. My girlfriend desires a more square emerald so that is why I am sticking in the low range. You may be thinking "why not an Asscher cut?" Because they are cut deeper and therefore look smaller, and are generally less available.
-Girdle: Slightly thin to Medium to slightly thick (Chalk line appearance is too thick) I do not want a thin girdle because they are fragile
-No Cutlet
Clarity: Minimum VS1 (Preferred VVSI2). NO CLARITY ENHANCEMENT
-Polish:Very good to excellent
No chips, scratches, fractures, extra facets, bearding, carbon or feathers.
-Make sure seller knows the diamond will be appraised by third party.
-Must have lifetime breakage and money back and/or trade up guarantee
-No lab reports over six months old.
-A bonding document guaranteeing the diamond is 100 % natural and not treated.
OK!
So here is where you guys let me know what you think. Are any of my specs off? Are any too stringent? Am I giving to much importance to any quality of the stone? Am I missing something? What should I expect to pay for this stone? Should I buy locally or from pricescope? Where should I get a TRUSTWORTHY appriasal or diamond grading?
Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Mario
This is my first post and I would trully GREATLY APPRECIATE


Shape: Emerald
Carat: Minimum .88 (Preferred 1.1 or above)
Color: D - F4 (Preferred E) NO Florescence NO COLOR ENHANCEMENT please run a colorimeter tape
Symmetry: Excellent to very good (Symmetry is very important in Emeralds because it has less facets, so the most brilliance you can get from the symmetry the better)
Cut: Minimum Class 2a Very Good including all angles from best to worst NO WARPING! (Preferred class 1 Premium Cut)
-Table: 58 to 64% (the lower the better)
-Crown Angle: 32-35 degrees
-Crown Height: 11.5 – 16.2 %
-Pavillion Angle: (43.5 – 45.5) For Emerald 43.3-46.9 degrees is acceptable, 45:05 is perfect
-Pavillion Depth: 47.5-53.1%
***Measure all angles or ask minimum maximum pavilion and crown angles***
-Total Depth: 58 to 62% (58.5 to 61 % Preferred)Emeralds can be cut shallower with no ill effects. The reason I am going shallow is because that makes the other portions of the diamond (Length Width) larger. In addition, my girlfriend does not like rings that sit high.
-Length to Width Ratio (Proportion): 1.35 – 1.45 I want to avoid the bow tie effect Cuellar reports that occurs with Emerald cutts with proportions less than 1.30 and greater than 1.75. My girlfriend desires a more square emerald so that is why I am sticking in the low range. You may be thinking "why not an Asscher cut?" Because they are cut deeper and therefore look smaller, and are generally less available.
-Girdle: Slightly thin to Medium to slightly thick (Chalk line appearance is too thick) I do not want a thin girdle because they are fragile
-No Cutlet
Clarity: Minimum VS1 (Preferred VVSI2). NO CLARITY ENHANCEMENT
-Polish:Very good to excellent
No chips, scratches, fractures, extra facets, bearding, carbon or feathers.
-Make sure seller knows the diamond will be appraised by third party.
-Must have lifetime breakage and money back and/or trade up guarantee
-No lab reports over six months old.
-A bonding document guaranteeing the diamond is 100 % natural and not treated.
OK!

Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Mario