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Help!!! Need a skilled jeweller / crafter for e-ring!

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hunnybee

Rough_Rock
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Aug 20, 2012
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Need all the help and recommendations I can get. I need a jeweller that is capable of doing small intricate work on a custom e-ring. Looking for top level craftsmanship. And ideally in Canada (Toronto area). I'm not totally opposed to places like Vancouver, New York, Singapore, and Australia. Though it wouldn't be as convenient.

So my issue is as follows:
We bought a Brellia from JannPaul and intended to have a custom setting made in platinum. The diamond is beautiful, perfect, everything we could want. The setting on the other hand is a huge disaster. They have been attempting to get it right for over 6 months now and it still looks nothing like it should. The concept is very simple. A rounded platinum band with micro claw settings holding the accent side diamonds. For what ever reason they can't get the micro claw setting right. We have shown them photos, drawings, and physical copies of the actual ring they are meant to duplicate but every time it turns into some sort of pavé setting that to me looks cheap and badly done. It isn't what we are asking for and it cheapens the look of the whole ring. I feel like their crafters aren't very skilled and they have managed to get away with marketing "super ideal cut diamonds" to people who don't notice the details of the band itself. We are hoping to just take the diamond at this point and have the setting made somewhere else. I'm looking for places known for immaculate work in platinum.

Also, if you look at their past custom work you will notice that every single ring with accent diamonds has the same type of "pavé" setting.

Thanks for any help!!!!

jannpaul.png

detailing.png

jannpaul_collage.jpg
 
I'm sure everyone will say contact Victor Canera but I just wanted to throw out this Etsy designer has examples on her website of that pave style you'd like. Just in case VC is out of budget. He is the go to for "immaculate pave work"

https://www.etsy.com/people/cvbgraphix
 
Thanks, I'm guessing Victor is online/ based in America?
 
hunnybee|1404787175|3708633 said:
Thanks, I'm guessing Victor is online/ based in America?
Yes if you google his name you'll fine his website. Google his name and Pricescope you'll get more than enough amazing eye candy.

In California if memory serves. My apologies I don't think there are too many Canadian vendors. Good luck in your search!
 
Thanks :). Most of what I'm finding by him are pavé settings not micro claw set.
 
Are you in one of the Canadian towns near the US broader? Near Seattle or New York?

Steven Kirsch is in NY and Greenlake and Erika Winters are in Seattle.
 
Check Steven Kirsch in NYC, too. I am pretty sure he and Victor can do more than one kind of pave.

I do think it is called French cut or v-cut pave or fishtail pave and not micro-claw.

Looking for link that describes them.
 
D&T|1404789832|3708662 said:
You might want to google search French cut paves, as what you are looking for appears to me as French cut.

on a bigger scale as an example of French cut paves.
This is from deaguiar designs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/French-Cut-Style-Pave-Diamonds-Wedding-Band-Solid-18k-White-Gold-/141336746224?pt=US_Wedding_Bands_with_Diamonds_Gemstones&hash=item20e85398f0

Never heard it called that before. The original is a tiffany ring. They told me it was a micro claw set. JannPaul tells me it's a fishtail pavé
 
You could ask them if they know the difference between French cut or fishtail... attached is Brian Gavin's Fishtail Pave.. What you want looks more domed, and what they gave you is very flat on the profile.

fishtail_bgd.jpg
 
My v-cut pave from Steven Kirsch from the side:
DSCN0698.jpg
 
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry
 
D&T|1404791042|3708687 said:
You could ask them if they know the difference between French cut or fishtail... attached is Brian Gavin's Fishtail Pave.. What you want looks more domed, and what they gave you is very flat on the profile.

Ive been trying to point out the differences (between the tiffany ring and what they are providing) but they are going with the theory that it is all the same thing and I don't actually know what I'm talking about because I don't work in the business. And they do
 
hunnybee said:
D&T|1404791042|3708687 said:
You could ask them if they know the difference between French cut or fishtail... attached is Brian Gavin's Fishtail Pave.. What you want looks more domed, and what they gave you is very flat on the profile.

Ive been trying to point out the differences (between the tiffany ring and what they are providing) but they are going with the theory that it is all the same thing and I don't actually know what I'm talking about because I don't work in the business. And they do
Oh dear! :eek: Its your money, time and emotion... I would not want to work with them any longer. I'm sorry you do know what you want and you are here so you know a thing or two ;))
 
hunnybee|1404791423|3708696 said:
D&T|1404791042|3708687 said:
You could ask them if they know the difference between French cut or fishtail... attached is Brian Gavin's Fishtail Pave.. What you want looks more domed, and what they gave you is very flat on the profile.

Ive been trying to point out the differences (between the tiffany ring and what they are providing) but they are going with the theory that it is all the same thing and I don't actually know what I'm talking about because I don't work in the business. And they do

Their bench is clearly skilled in one type of pave (or just not the type you want). You certainly don't want them to make something they are not skilled at. So having someone who is skilled at that type is the right decision. See my link above for the different types of pave.
 
diamondseeker2006|1404791240|3708693 said:
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry

Tiffany one looks like a combo of the V and fishtail if we are using those images
 
hunnybee|1404791736|3708705 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404791240|3708693 said:
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry

Tiffany one looks like a combo of the V and fishtail if we are using those images

Steven Kirsch used to work for Leon Mege and is very skilled. Leon obviously thinks fishtail is not high quality. I would ask Steven's opinion and you'll need to email him the picture of the pave ring you like. He will tell you honestly if one type is superior to another for the ring you have in mind.
 
[/quote]
Oh dear! :eek: Its your money, time and emotion... I would not want to work with them any longer. I'm sorry you do know what you want and you are here so you know a thing or two ;))[/quote]

haha thanks! I just want them to copy the damn tiffany image. Perhaps I'm ignorant in thinking it should be that simple? They started with a computer model. When I pointed out the flaws they switched to making a silver model to prove to me that I couldn't invasion what it would look like in real life and that it was in-fact what I was asking for. After the 3rd one we asked that they go back to the computer models because all the emails and diagrams needed to be followed. Finally resulted in flying out to Singapore to show them the original at a Tiffany and Co. and give face to face instructions along with a printout of what the finished product should look like. With that they went straight into production of the actual platinum band with diamond in setting and thats what the pavé turned out to be.
 
diamondseeker2006|1404792109|3708707 said:
hunnybee|1404791736|3708705 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404791240|3708693 said:
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry

Tiffany one looks like a combo of the V and fishtail if we are using those images

Steven Kirsch used to work for Leon Mege and is very skilled. Leon obviously thinks fishtail is not high quality. I would ask Steven's opinion and you'll need to email him the picture of the pave ring you like. He will tell you honestly if one type is superior to another for the ring you have in mind.

if any "rookie" can do it then why the hell can't they figure it out?
 
Gypsy|1404791078|3708691 said:
My v-cut pave from Steven Kirsch from the side:
DSCN0698.jpg
That's a lot more similar to the Tiffany ring than what JannPaul are coming up with. Thanks
 
hunnybee|1404792722|3708711 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404792109|3708707 said:
hunnybee|1404791736|3708705 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404791240|3708693 said:
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry

Tiffany one looks like a combo of the V and fishtail if we are using those images

Steven Kirsch used to work for Leon Mege and is very skilled. Leon obviously thinks fishtail is not high quality. I would ask Steven's opinion and you'll need to email him the picture of the pave ring you like. He will tell you honestly if one type is superior to another for the ring you have in mind.

if any "rookie" can do it then why the hell can't they figure it out?

You know, I surely wouldn't want someone to try and make something for me that they had never made before. Just because the bench was skilled in one kind does not mean they can do every kind. I would only use someone who is very skilled in that type. But if either Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch told me that style was inferior to another, I would go with what they recommend because they are both pave masters and highly regarded for top quality work.
 
diamondseeker2006|1404793766|3708721 said:
hunnybee|1404792722|3708711 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404792109|3708707 said:
hunnybee|1404791736|3708705 said:
diamondseeker2006|1404791240|3708693 said:
See link below, there are many kinds. I don't recommend this ring maker, but here is a good description of different types. He has a pretty low opinion of fishtail pave, which is fairly interesting. I am sorry to say it doesn't surprise me that the Tiffany person didn't know the correct terminology since they deal with so little custom work there.

https://leonmege.com/index.php/articles/education/pave-types-in-jewelry

Tiffany one looks like a combo of the V and fishtail if we are using those images

Steven Kirsch used to work for Leon Mege and is very skilled. Leon obviously thinks fishtail is not high quality. I would ask Steven's opinion and you'll need to email him the picture of the pave ring you like. He will tell you honestly if one type is superior to another for the ring you have in mind.

if any "rookie" can do it then why the hell can't they figure it out?

You know, I surely wouldn't want someone to try and make something for me that they had never made before. Just because the bench was skilled in one kind does not mean they can do every kind. I would only use someone who is very skilled in that type. But if either Victor Canera or Steven Kirsch told me that style was inferior to another, I would go with what they recommend because they are both pave masters and highly regarded for top quality work.

The problem is the people at JannPaul keep telling me that it's not a problem and that their crafter can do it for sure. That it's easy. But it isn't what they come up with
 
Did you read the link I posted for you?

In my opinion. You get one shot. I show you want I want, you show me an image that shows you can do it. You don't show me exactly what I want, I move on.

I don't care what they SAY that they can do. A salesman trying to make a sale will say many things. Not all of them true.
 
Gypsy|1404794925|3708734 said:
Did you read the link I posted for you?

In my opinion. You get one shot. I show you want I want, you show me an image that shows you can do it. You don't show me exactly what I want, I move on.

I don't care what they SAY that they can do. A salesman trying to make a sale will say many things. Not all of them true.
Yes, looking at it now. The thing was we brought the stone from them, and because the diamond (Brellia: 1.5 D VS1) cost a significant amount the band was highly discounted as a result. So having them make the setting in-house was the ideal. They were also offering lifetime upkeep which was great (resizing, re-polishing, etc.) Was really hoping it was all just caused by miscommunication.
 
Lifetime upkeep is not really worth that much.

Repolish, etc. aren't exactly expensive and you do it once a year usually. Cleaning is free at the large majority of jewelers. You are don't size rings all that often.


To me, having high quality pave that I can be sure will stand up to the wear and tear of everyday is worth the most.
 
Which is why I'm looking for someone capable with experience in the type of setting I want
 
The type of pave you want with metal work is actually called neo french cut (at least I'm 95% certain since I'm looking on my cell vs a monitor). The vendors mentioned above can all do it. Pending what coast line you are I would personally just go with whoever is closest, though I happen to think that VC does better neo french then the others.
 
hunnybee|1404792449|3708709 said:
haha thanks! I just want them to copy the damn tiffany image. Perhaps I'm ignorant in thinking it should be that simple? They started with a computer model. When I pointed out the flaws they switched to making a silver model to prove to me that I couldn't invasion what it would look like in real life and that it was in-fact what I was asking for. After the 3rd one we asked that they go back to the computer models because all the emails and diagrams needed to be followed. Finally resulted in flying out to Singapore to show them the original at a Tiffany and Co. and give face to face instructions along with a printout of what the finished product should look like. With that they went straight into production of the actual platinum band with diamond in setting and thats what the pavé turned out to be.

Wow you gave them WAY more chances than I would have.

hunnybee|1404792722|3708711 said:
if any "rookie" can do it then why the hell can't they figure it out?

Because these are not being done by rookies. They are being done by a handful of elite artisans who have worked for years perfecting the skill of manipulating teeny tiny bits of metal. This forum, which collectively LOVES to find skilled jewelers, has only found a few that can do these types of pave that well. Your jeweler just doesn't have the knowledge or skill, and they're trying to convince you that what you want is impossible or that you're seeing things so they don't lose the sale. Just move on from your jeweler to one of the ones recommended here.

Re: resizing and repolishing, honestly, since you are getting a pave shank, you don't want to resize it or repolish it unless absolutely necessary as that comes with risks of loosening the pave stones. Cleaning you can do at home easily, and every non-chain jeweler I've ever been to offers free prong checks and cleaning. Those aren't enough of a draw to sway me to use one jeweler over another.
 
So I got more "proper" photos of the ring today. I can't decide if I should laugh or cry. They have taken such a beautiful concept and butchered it. Nothing turned out right. The pavé though more similar than what I originally thought it still wrong. The band is wrong. The doughnut is HUGE, and best of all, lopsided! They even got the setting wrong. How the hell it went so badly is beyond me. I have to say, I'm worried about sending it anywhere I can't visit daily in person now. I feel like I should have them take the diamond out of the monstrosity of a setting they have created for fear it might taint the diamond somehow. Yay.. half a year wasted!

Officially need to start from scratch.

Anyone know how much Steven Kirsch, Victor Canera, and Leon Megé charge for a thin pavé platinum band (diamonds running halfway) with very simple setting? People keep mentioning price, so I'm wondering how large a sum we are talking.
 
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