Help me pick a jeweler!

[krixxxa]

I am close to deciding which jeweler I want to make the engagement ring for my fiancé, but the two I am torn between have different approaches. Can someone give me some insight into what is better?

The first wants to cast the ring in 18k white gold, having carved it first in wax. He says this gives the strongest ring because there is no soldering.

The other jeweler wants to fabricate the ring from 18k wire and solder together all hand made elements (prongs, shank, basket, etc). He says that using worked metal is better because the grains of the metal are more compacted and the ring will be far stronger than casting.

Which is true?

Finally, one jeweler wants to use X1 white gold. I know it is an alloy that uses more nickel and there are some questions about allergic reactions. He says it stays far whiter longer.

The other wants to use an 18k white gold he says is an excellent alloy and one he really favors. He says that X1 is an expensive brand name that doesn’t really make a lot of difference.

Is there a real difference? Is it worth the extra $$ to use X1?

Your thoughts? Thanks!!

 

[JulieN]

I would just go with the person who does better work. Let them use the metal and methods that work for them.

 

[denverappraiser]

All other things being equal, well done fabrication produces better results than casting. Done poorly you don''t want either one. That said, skilled fabricators are significantly more difficult to find and generally charge more so it’s up to you to decide if:

a) The jeweler is appropriately skilled? and
b) Are you willing to pay the price?

X1 is a nice alloy. I’m guessing this is coming from the caster since it’s a bitch to fabricate with this stuff. It does stay white longer but so does the palladium white that the top fabricators prefer (which costs more than X1 by the way)

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver