Help buying an e-Ring

[JoshM_DC]

Hi everyone,
This is my first time posting, so I apologize for any mistakes I make. I''ve read through many of the posts, as well as the faq, so hopefully that will help.

I''m shopping for an engagement ring for my gf. We''re looking together, so I know (roughly) what she wants.

We''re looking for the following:
Stone: 1.5 ct, H or I, VS2 to SI2, premium or better cut, round brilliant stone
Setting: channel, bead or pave (we''re not sure yet on the differences, despite having seen some), thin (2.5 - 3 mm thick), 4 prongs, with small shoulders (she wants as little metal as possible).

Given all this, I have some questions:
1. With the channel setting and the desire for very little metal, how visible will the graying (if platinum) / yellowing (if white gold) of the metal be?

2. With the 1.5 ct stone and the desire for 4 prongs, does the head need to be platinum? I was told by one dealer than for a stone of that size, white gold and 4 prongs may not be secure enough.

3. Given the discoloring that occurs, is a white gold band and platinum head/prongs a mistake? That is, will the two kinds of metal be apparent?

4. I''ve read here about white gold with palladium. How does that compare with platinum, price-wise and discoloration-wise?

5. Generally speaking, how do the different settings (channel, bead, pave) affect price? Is one typically more expensive. I''ve read that pave requires more work, and therefore a higher price?

6. I read the GIA study on Fluorescence (from Winter 1997 of Gems and Gemology). From that, it seems the degree of fluorescence is a matter of personal opinion. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Josh

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC


I'm shopping for an engagement ring for my gf. We're looking together, so I know (roughly) what she wants.


We're looking for the following:

Stone: 1.5 ct, H or I, VS2 to SI2, premium or better cut, round brilliant stone

Setting: channel, bead or pave (we're not sure yet on the differences, despite having seen some), thin (2.5 - 3 mm thick), 4 prongs, with small shoulders (she wants as little metal as possible).

check the search engine on the home page and see what pops up for a good start on a stone..

I highly recommend Pearlmans to check out settings. He has a whole bunch that would match your description of what your looking for. There are also several vendors here that do custom work if you don't find something else out there you like.

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC

1. With the channel setting and the desire for very little metal, how visible will the graying (if platinum) / yellowing (if white gold) of the metal be?

platinum doesn't really gray, it get's a patina look to it, nothing a polish at a jeweler can't fix..

WG can be dipped, but i've only seen 14 karat WG turn yellowish..

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM


2. With the 1.5 ct stone and the desire for 4 prongs, does the head need to be platinum? I was told by one dealer than for a stone of that size, white gold and 4 prongs may not be secure enough.

never heard that..but i prefer platinum..

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC

3. Given the discoloring that occurs, is a white gold band and platinum head/prongs a mistake? That is, will the two kinds of metal be apparent?

I doubt it..

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC


4. I've read here about white gold with palladium. How does that compare with platinum, price-wise and discoloration-wise?

I don't know much about palladium, not a lot of jewelers use it yet as far as I know. 18 carat White gold shouldn't discolor much and if it does you can have it re-plated.

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC


5. Generally speaking, how do the different settings (channel, bead, pave) affect price? Is one typically more expensive. I've read that pave requires more work, and therefore a higher price?

going custom verses buying a pre-made setting can affect price. also, handmade verses cast can affect price..

Date: 3/3/2006 3:45:20 PM
Author:JoshM_DC

6. I read the GIA study on Fluorescence (from Winter 1997 of Gems and Gemology). From that, it seems the degree of fluorescence is a matter of personal opinion. Is that correct?

It is personal, I happen to love how a stone looks that has it..

 

[JoshM_DC]

Hi.
Thanks so much for getting back to me.

I'm curious about Cut. One dealer I spoke with told me that, among other numbers, table and depth need to be within a certain range for the stone to be rated an ideal cut.

He said a stone's table's range is 53 - 60%, with ideal being 53-57%, and depth is 58 - 62.27, with ideal depth being 53 - 57%.

But I've found stones listed as Ideal cuts, with the table and depth falling outside those Ideal ranges.

For example, see http://tinyurl.com/z72ve from Dimend Scaasi.

Thanks.

 

[belle]

Date: 3/7/2006 1:25:15 PM
Author: JoshM_DC
Hi.
Thanks so much for getting back to me.

I''m curious about Cut. One dealer I spoke with told me that, among other numbers, table and depth need to be within a certain range for the stone to be rated an ideal cut.

He said a stone''s table''s range is 53 - 60%, with ideal being 53-57%, and depth is 58 - 62.27, with ideal depth being 53 - 57%.

But I''ve found stones listed as Ideal cuts, with the table and depth falling outside those Ideal ranges.

For example, see http://tinyurl.com/z72ve from Dimend Scaasi.

Thanks.

the term ''ideal'' is overused. basically, anyone can call anything ''ideal''. get the numbers. not only do depth and table need to be within a certain range, the crown/pavilion angles need to work together within that range.