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Help Buy Loose Oval Diamond Online

tanktop

tanktop

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 1, 2017
Messages
5
I'm just beginning my search for a loose oval diamond online. I'm clueless about diamonds but here's what I've derived from initial reading.

1. Cut is paramount: Ideal/Excellent
A prominent bowtie is not desirable. To minimize bow tie effect: depth 59%-63%, length/width ratio 1.35-1.5.

2. Clarity: eye clean SI1 through F

3. Color: H through D

4. Rating? AGS graded diamond if buying new (avoid EGL)
I believe GIA isn't available for ovals.

5. Carat: 1.61-2.24

6. Setting: thin 1.5mm - 2mm plain band, 14k white gold or platinum, 4 or 6 prong, taper okay, no halo, no pave, no bezel, no dome, no cathedral

A) Are there any tests or criteria I should apply to ovals? For example, I read that rounds have an HCA test to exclude options.
B) Do you recommend any online vendors for ovals? Any to avoid?
C) Will a 4 prong setting be secure for stones above 1ct?
D) After I purchase a stone online, do I take it to a local jeweler for appraisal for insurance purposes?
E) I've seen recommendations to try pawn shops or estate sales; how do I know if the stone meets the aforementioned criteria?


I appreciate any guidance, advice or caution you can offer me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I forgot, budget max $15,000
 
tanktop said:
I'm just beginning my search for a loose oval diamond online. I'm clueless about diamonds but here's what I've derived from initial reading.

1. Cut is paramount: Ideal/Excellent
A prominent bowtie is not desirable. To minimize bow tie effect: depth 59%-63%, length/width ratio 1.35-1.5.
I consider a bad bow-tie to be a dark area (like in your link). Some people consider it the "bigger" faceting through
the center of the stone. Just make a note of that if someone points out a bow-tie and there is no black.

2. Clarity: eye clean SI1 through F

3. Color: H through D

4. Rating? AGS graded diamond if buying new (avoid EGL)
I believe GIA isn't available for ovals. Most ovals I've seen are GIA graded.

5. Carat: 1.61-2.24

6. Setting: thin 1.5mm - 2mm plain band, 14k white gold or platinum, 4 or 6 prong, taper okay, no halo, no pave, no bezel, no dome, no cathedral
We usually try to stay at 2mm. 1.5 is uber thin and I would not recommend it (if so, need to go with plat).

A) Are there any tests or criteria I should apply to ovals? For example, I read that rounds have an HCA test to exclude options. No test for fancy cuts.
B) Do you recommend any online vendors for ovals? Any to avoid? James Allen is the easiest one to start with because they have decent videos.
You really have to have images and videos.
C) Will a 4 prong setting be secure for stones above 1ct? Well, lets just say I've see lots of ovals with 4 prongs so I'll say yes.
D) After I purchase a stone online, do I take it to a local jeweler for appraisal for insurance purposes? You can do this or depending on your
insurance company you can just use the receipt. You do not want a "fake feel good" appraisal that is going to make you pay
for $10k of insurance when your stone only cost $6k.
E) I've seen recommendations to try pawn shops or estate sales; how do I know if the stone meets the aforementioned criteria?
Almost impossible to tell. You have to use your eyes and know what to look for. There are a lot of bad ovals out there so you would
be really luck to find one at a pawn shop/estate sell. Easier to find a round stone.



I appreciate any guidance, advice or caution you can offer me.
Click to expand...
 
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I appreciate all of the suggestions and links to websites and additional reading. I've visited the sites, done the reading and am opting to rely on a diamond dealer.

I haven't decided which dealer yet but I feel like it's a better route for me than purchasing online, in terms of the quality of stone and likely the price.

Online is great for learning and getting ideas for what I might like. So is this forum, so I'll be sniffing around.
 
tanktop said:
I appreciate all of the suggestions and links to websites and additional reading. I've visited the sites, done the reading and am opting to rely on a diamond dealer.

I haven't decided which dealer yet but I feel like it's a better route for me than purchasing online, in terms of the quality of stone and likely the price.

Online is great for learning and getting ideas for what I might like. So is this forum, so I'll be sniffing around.
Click to expand...

Honestly, you'll get a better price and MUCH better quality online.

Best of luck!
 
Oops. I was under the impression online stores sold the unwanted and tougher to unload inventory/listings of various diamond dealers. Thus, offering more variety but lower quality. Please correct me?
 
Er, no, not sure where you got that information from. The online retailers which are popular on here provide access to thousands of diamonds, including the best quality, superideal cuts (at least in round shapes). It is more tricky to buy fancy cuts online as you really need pictures, videos and light performance images (such as ASETs). It is not impossible, though and there are many people on the forum who can help you pick out a great stone.
 
tanktop said:
Oops. I was under the impression online stores sold the unwanted and tougher to unload inventory/listings of various diamond dealers. Thus, offering more variety but lower quality. Please correct me?
Click to expand...

Wow. No. Setting aside the diamonds that are custom cuts, the vast majority of diamonds are available from a large database (or 3). All vendors, online or B&M draw from those same sources. With online, they tend to provide much better images (photo, video) and specialized performance tools (ASET and IS images). Plus, you have the entire PS community to help you weed through the diamonds with no stake in the outcome. You will save money buying online, but since most jewelers pull from the same database, you can have your local jeweler try to 'call' the diamonds we find online.

But, online has some additional advantages relative to trade-in/up policies, return periods, and the like.

The value of a good local jeweler cannot be overstated. But, the number that have the skill and knowledge to select good diamonds is diminishing. This is especially true for non-rounds. For rounds, you can simply focus on specific numbers. For ovals, there is a much larger set of criteria.

We'll post some online choices and try to show you what to look for. You can try to apply that knowledge in person or look at some of the specific diamonds we think are worthwhile.
 
Answers to your questions first.
A) Are there any tests or criteria I should apply to ovals? For example, I read that rounds have an HCA test to exclude options. NO. It simply requires a trained eye.
B) Do you recommend any online vendors for ovals? Any to avoid? Yes. I like the photo style of JamesAllen, but routinely look at BlueNile, Enchanted Diamonds and others.
C) Will a 4 prong setting be secure for stones above 1ct? Secure, yes. Wise, no. I would look for a 6-prong setting to better protect the N&S ends. Once we find a vendor, if you go online, we can help you find a setting.
D) After I purchase a stone online, do I take it to a local jeweler for appraisal for insurance purposes? You don't need to. You only need to insure it for the actual cost. You'll have a receipt and GIA certification that states the diamond's specs. A separate appraisal will unlikely add anything unless you use a vintage setting.
E) I've seen recommendations to try pawn shops or estate sales; how do I know if the stone meets the aforementioned criteria? I do not recommend this for most novices.
 
I'm assuming the $15k includes the setting, so I'm working with $13k for a diamond for now. There are other oval prosumers who will hopefully chime in like @tyty333 @valeria101 @Niel @diamondseeker2006 @msop04 @drk14 @SimoneDi and give additional thought on my selections and maybe provide others.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.53-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-sku-3615409
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.53-carat-f-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3605378
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.53-carat-g-color-si1-clarity-sku-3615409 {clarity may be an issue for some}
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.51-carat-e-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2810350 (pretty faceting}
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.51-carat-d-color-si1-clarity-sku-3357770

https://www.bluenile.com/diamond-details/LD09577219?refTab=DIAMONDS {hold Ctrl when clicking on BN)
https://www.bluenile.com/diamond-details/LD09631835?refTab=DIAMONDS

JamesAllen will allow you to request 3 ASET images per email. Put any you like on hold quickly. BN is a mixed bag on giving ASETs, hold what you like and then ask for ASET.

Excellent post by @drk14 about evaluating elongate diamonds. https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/oval-advice.232120/#post-4187619
 
tanktop said:
Oops. I was under the impression online stores sold the unwanted and tougher to unload inventory/listings of various diamond dealers. Thus, offering more variety but lower quality. Please correct me?
Click to expand...

If a jeweler told you this, they are lying to try to get your business. See the stone in my avatar picture? You won't find one like it at a local jeweler because it came from a jeweler that happens to sell online. He happens to be the founder of the August Vintage site posted above and specializes in outstanding cut stones. The oval on Whiteflash was obviously hand selected for their inventory, because it is one of the best generic ovals I have seen to date. But it is not in your color range, unfortunately. They sent that stone to AGS for grading, but 99%+ of ovals will be GIA graded. I just looked and that Whiteflash stone was actually graded ideal for light performance! That is an extremely rare oval, and if you can't wait until more AV ovals are cut, I'd strongly consider at least looking at the WF stone!

When you go to a site like James Allen or Blue Nile and many others, they are listing mostly virtual stones that they do not own. The sell stones owned by cutters or diamond suppliers. Those are the same sources that local jewelers buy from, too. It's just that they may only have one or two ovals in the size and spec range you want, if any, whereas we have access to seeing a huge number of the ovals available online at vendors such as James Allen who show videos of the stones.

Sorry if I am repeating what others have said. I didn't take the time to read them all.
 
tanktop said:
Oops. I was under the impression online stores sold the unwanted and tougher to unload inventory/listings of various diamond dealers. Thus, offering more variety but lower quality. Please correct me?
Click to expand...

This is horrible! I'm sure you must have heard this from a B&M store and this is NOT TRUE.

You can buy from either (B&M or online) depending on what you prefer but on-line you have access to way more stones than a jeweler is willing to bring
in for you (it cost money to bring stones in).

If you prefer B&M, you can locate stones on-line that meet your specs then ask your B&M to bring that stone in (but you might find that it is cheaper
to buy it on-line). You do have choices.
 
Look at adiamor. I'e just had a lovely 1.3ct, FL, color D, ex cut, ex pol, ex sym, med flour. $12100 That was including 20% tax!
 
I appreciate the information. It's very overwhelming but I'm trying to sort through.

One of the criteria for shopping online seems to be ASETs. I don't have any idea how to interpret those, even after reading a write-up and thread about them.
Glad I can post stones here for opinions and help with interpretations.

I'm also confused about the "virtual diamond" listings online. Does that mean the online retailer lists the specs and a mock-up photo of what the stone should look like, then obtains the actual inventory to fit those specs once it's ordered? Or, are the pictures and video truly of the actual stone for sale, only the online retailer simply doesn't have it in their possession?

I reached out to August Vintage about their upcoming ideal oval cuts.

Yes, my $15k budget include the setting. The setting is supposed to be simple, 2mm white gold band, no pave, no other stones, no engravings. It's ~$2k for a plain solitaire setting? I was not expecting that. I thought maybe $600. Perhaps I'm not considering the labor to set the stone.

Whew, being an informed consumer feels impossible but I will do my best. Seems like I'm in the right place.
 
tanktop said:
I appreciate the information. It's very overwhelming but I'm trying to sort through.

One of the criteria for shopping online seems to be ASETs. I don't have any idea how to interpret those, even after reading a write-up and thread about them.
Glad I can post stones here for opinions and help with interpretations.

I'm also confused about the "virtual diamond" listings online. Does that mean the online retailer lists the specs and a mock-up photo of what the stone should look like, then obtains the actual inventory to fit those specs once it's ordered? Or, are the pictures and video truly of the actual stone for sale, only the online retailer simply doesn't have it in their possession?

I reached out to August Vintage about their upcoming ideal oval cuts.

Yes, my $15k budget include the setting. The setting is supposed to be simple, 2mm white gold band, no pave, no other stones, no engravings. It's ~$2k for a plain solitaire setting? I was not expecting that. I thought maybe $600. Perhaps I'm not considering the labor to set the stone.

Whew, being an informed consumer feels impossible but I will do my best. Seems like I'm in the right place.
Click to expand...

ASETs and/or IdealScope (IS) images. People here will be happy to help read them for you. James Allen (JA) will provide IS images on round brilliant cuts but not ASETs.

Virtual inventories are typically stones located overseas and they'll be listed on numerous sites. Some of those retailers *may* have images of the actual diamond, some don't. JA typically does.

If you are interested in the new oval from August Vintage, it looks like they will be sold on JA sometime in the coming months.

You can find plain bands for much less.... $2K+ sounds like you're looking at a custom band (or you're referring to the recent thread with a plain setting, however she is looking for mixed metals and also custom).

I'd look at Whiteflash (WF) and JA to start. The main reason for going with WF would be for their "in-house" diamonds and their signature cut. So select in-house, not virtual on their site. If you are seeking a super ideal (like WF's 'A Cut Above'), also look at High Performance Diamonds (hpdiamonds.com). They do not have actual images of their diamonds on their site (currently under construction) but you can send them an email and they'll make a video for you.

Other people also like Brian Gavin Diamonds (BGD) for his super ideal cuts. I do not have any experience with BGD so cannot recommend or not.

I would avoid Blue Nile, which is a large online dealer but they do not provide ASET or IS images.

Hope that helps and doesn't add to any confusion!
 
Looking back at the original post, it seems like you are interested in an oval. So WF and HPD won't be of help.

I'd highly recommend the new August Vintage oval. It is really making me consider one! I believe they'll be the best on the market today. :love:
 
Since there is no great unified theory of oval diamonds to teach what good ones look online briefly, I'd say either go for AGS000 cut branding or use the one example of an ASET map of the AGS000 oval above-mentioned, as a reference: you wuold wish to see as much red & green, if patterns vary somewhat.

2c

___
Footnote:

Obviously, I rather enjoy scherry-picking stones online - else @rockysalamander had not pinged me ! However, all I can do is guesstimate & ask for ASET, since it does a long way to tell how bright diamonds will look in reasonable lighting etc. - I might quibble with ASET sometimes, since I am finding that it makes things too simple & too strict ...
 
.
ctd.

From among the ovals mentioned, I rather like the D/SI1 WWW - the shape is happy enough for me to want to see the ASET, and perhaps forgive some small faults in it ...

If you will, these are also ovals WWW - certaily a bright cut & eye catching & classical & a personal choice, of course. I do not know if one with the right specifications might happen to be available, since these things do not happen too often.
 
One more:

I looked around at JA & came up with two larger ones:

1.64 F/VS2 - a speady (9.4 X 6.6 mm) stone that seems to light up throughout a 60 degree range quite allot (perhap the straight front view is not the very brightest, even)

and this 1.7 E/SI1 which may have the same pattern of light reflections as the AGS (but, may not have quite such a great ASET still... )

Fingers crossed !
 
tanktop said:
I appreciate the information. It's very overwhelming but I'm trying to sort through.

One of the criteria for shopping online seems to be ASETs. I don't have any idea how to interpret those, even after reading a write-up and thread about them.
Glad I can post stones here for opinions and help with interpretations.
Click to expand...

You are correct that most of the vendors online AT PRICESCOPE are familiar with ASET, but I don't know that I would say it is an 'online criteria/" ASETs exists to help determine light performance of a diamond you cannot - for obvious reasons - see in person during the selection process. B&M stores will often tell you that the diamond is right in front of you, so no need for an ASET image. While that works for many people I would try to ALWAYS get an ASET of any diamond for which I was considering a purchase.

I'm also confused about the "virtual diamond" listings online. Does that mean the online retailer lists the specs and a mock-up photo of what the stone should look like, then obtains the actual inventory to fit those specs once it's ordered? Or, are the pictures and video truly of the actual stone for sale, only the online retailer simply doesn't have it in their possession?
Click to expand...

This simply means that the vendor is listing diamonds who are stored, cut and/or kept with a business partner, and not in the actual store (or place of business) of the vendor with whom you are dealing - this can be true of B&M stores as well as online stores. You may be shopping with a company that lists 200,000+ diamonds available, obviously they do not have 200,000+ diamonds on premises, but when you place an order, they will contact the diamond partner and have it shipped to their place of business.

Whew, being an informed consumer feels impossible but I will do my best. Seems like I'm in the right place.
Click to expand...
Indeed it is!
 
Just wanted to check on how you were doing looking at the diamonds posted by myself and Valeria101.

These would be my top choices for requesting an ASET after putting them on hold.

1.51 D/SI1. https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.51-carat-d-color-si1-clarity-sku-3357770 (9.09*6.47)

1.64 F/VS2 [/URL]- a spready (9.4 X 6.6 mm) stone that seems to light up throughout a 60 degree range quite allot (perhaps the straight front view is not the very brightest, even)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.64-carat-f-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3598585

1.7 E/SI1. https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/oval-cut/1.70-carat-e-color-si1-clarity-sku-3626417
 
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