Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset...

[sugarski]

Hey everyone, I recently posted about resetting my family .80 F/VS2 MRB in this ring:
http://www.clay-pot.com/images/P/p-8605.jpg
http://www.clay-pot.com/images/D/RICHARD-LANDI---Diamond--8605-0D.jpg

I *adore* this setting, but it's been a bit difficult because I can only communicate with the designer through my jeweler. It was explained to me that the ring cannot be made in, say, yellow gold with platinum prongs. It's all one piece and the whole ring, including prongs, must be of the same material. OK, fine. I will be pairing the ring with a Cartier Trinity tricolor gold band, so I decided not to go with platinum for the diamond ring. I also don't particularly want shiny rhodium-plated wg- my preference is for something softer and warmer.

So, I thought of 18k rose gold in a creamy, light color; I'd be quite unhappy if it were a deep, coppery-pink shade. I asked to see the rg the designer would be using before I committed to it, but my jeweler reported that the designer had no samples to show me. (I actually don't think the designer uses rose gold at all.) So then I said, how about unplated white gold, having seen the beautiful examples on PS. My jeweler said the designer recommended against this because unplated wg would look "dingy" and "dull".

At this point I feel like the only "approved" gold colors are yg and plated wg. I am not sure how to proceed and I wish the designer were a bit more helpful. Should I just go with the yg? (I love it but am a bit leery of yellow prongs on an F-color stone.) Is the designer right that unplated wg (maybe just the type he uses) will look "dull"? Am I asking too much? Could I have them do it in unplated wg, and afterwards if I really hated it, have them rhodium-plate it?

I'm sort of annoyed at this point and would drop the whole idea and look for another setting, except that I really love this one and haven't found another I like nearly as much after several weeks of major looking. WWPSD?

 

[ame]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

Ditto, not being able to make the prongs a different color is BS. Find someone else who can make what you want the way you want it.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

There are SO many halo settings out there. And Richard Landi is relatively expensive. If you don't mind saying, how much is that setting? Because I am thinking that you may be able to have one custom made for a similar price.

But regardless, if you are planning to wear it with a Trinity ring, then I think it needs to be 18k yg, rg, plated wg, or platinum. I do not think unplated white gold will work and I also don't think I would like it with an F color diamond. I think rose gold will be problematic because you have NO way of knowing if the rose gold of the trinity ring and the rose gold of any halo setting is going to match (unless they are both in-stock at Cartier!). I definitely would want the halo in white metal. I personally prefer platinum and would have no issues with wearing platinum with a Trinity ring. But if two tone is what you desire (such as a yg or rg shank with white metal halo), then your best bet is to have one custom made.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

Ame, thanks. I think you are right. Any suggestions as to a really good one? I am near NYC if that helps; OTOH I was considering sending the stone to BGD to be evaluated for a recut, so perhaps they could do the setting too? (I have looked on their site and don't really like their stock halos.)

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

Ditto, not being able to make the prongs a different color is BS. Find someone else who can make what you want the way you want it.

Thanks. I suspected as much!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I don't think it is bs for them not to be able to make the ring two tone if the ring is cast, which it probably is! That is why you go custom when you want something besides a stock setting.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

There are SO many halo settings out there. And Richard Landi is relatively expensive. If you don't mind saying, how much is that setting? Because I am thinking that you may be able to have one custom made for a similar price.

But regardless, if you are planning to wear it with a Trinity ring, then I think it needs to be 18k yg, rg, plated wg, or platinum. I do not think unplated white gold will work and I also don't think I would like it with an F color diamond. I think rose gold will be problematic because you have NO way of knowing if the rose gold of the trinity ring and the rose gold of any halo setting is going to match (unless they are both in-stock at Cartier!). I definitely would want the halo in white metal. I personally prefer platinum and would have no issues with wearing platinum with a Trinity ring. But if two tone is what you desire (such as a yg or rg shank with white metal halo), then your best bet is to have one custom made.

Hi, diamondseeker! Thanks for your ongoing help. It's truly appreciated.

The setting is just under $1800 in 18k gold, with .17 ctw in melee.

I know what you mean about making sure the colors work. Just to complicate matters, I was also hoping to eventually get a 7-stone shared prong anniversary band for my 20th anniversary next year. Was hoping for about .50 ctw (probably the Memoire Petite Prong), and envisioned wearing the Trinity with the diamond band, Trinity with the halo, or halo w/diamond band.

I was not keen on going with platinum, for reasons of expense/general preference for gold; but also because I have read here that platinum worn next to gold will, over time, eat away the softer gold. Not true?

Any suggestions for good custom vendors who can do a good job with this ring? I know halos are easy to find, but I have not seen ANY quite like this one, with a plain tapered shank and the filigree-ish basket. I saw it IRL and it was *perfect* (for me); exactly the right height off the finger, band exactly the right width, a design with some special/vintagey details, but not overly fussy.

BTW, I have (mediocre) photos of both my stone in its present setting and the Landi sample ring on my finger, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to upload them! They are on my iPhone and my Mac.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I don't think it is bs for them not to be able to make the ring two tone if the ring is cast, which it probably is! That is why you go custom when you want something besides a stock setting.

Oh, OK, makes sense... I'm sure you're right about it being cast.

 

[AprilBaby]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Sounds like a beautiful project

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Sounds like a beautiful project

You are so sweet, AprilBaby. Thank you!

 

[ame]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

Ame, thanks. I think you are right. Any suggestions as to a really good one? I am near NYC if that helps; OTOH I was considering sending the stone to BGD to be evaluated for a recut, so perhaps they could do the setting too? (I have looked on their site and don't really like their stock halos.)

BGD could do it, but in NYC I would call either ERD or Steven Kirsch. SK would hand make it and that's a REALLY nice feature.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I don't think it is bs for them not to be able to make the ring two tone if the ring is cast, which it probably is! That is why you go custom when you want something besides a stock setting.

I don't see why they couldn't cast the ring and build separate prongs, that kind of work is done all the time. If a company like LOGR can do it I don't see why any competent jewelry maker couldn't do it. It seems more like they don't want to do it. In that case, go somewhere else. Especially for that much money.

 

[yssie]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I actually think that setting would be lovely in all-yg (14k or 18k?) but I agree with ame and Asscherhalo that the lack of flexibility would concern me enough to go elsewhere. That you are getting responses of "we can't do this" instead of explanations of why it may or may not be viable for this particular project is a red flag IMO.

Then again, you're going through your jeweller and your jeweller pretty clearly has some strong opinions of his own (unplated wg is NOT dingy, no matter what alloy, and it's only dull if it's a poor casting that won't take a good polish ) so who knows what else might be getting lost in translation here?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Okay, I absolutely love your master plan of three rings! I honestly think if you want a Memoire ring (I have a wg one as a matter of fact), go with the white gold for the Richard Landi ring and for the Memoire and then the Trinity ring will look great with either one!

Since you really love that RL halo and it is a good price (you won't get a custom one done for that price and it couldn't be a copy of that exact ring), I would just stick with that if you could just go with 18k wg. I think that will really look better in all wg if you are going to sometimes wear it with the Memoire band.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

That setting doesn't seem particularly unusual, that it has not been done by any other vendor before. The "it's all one piece" thing, to me, is something I would be wary of, because it sounds like it's cast as one piece, and not exactly hand-wrought which would allow them to actually make the head different metals. I would look into finding a custom jeweler that can create something similar in the way you actually want it and the metal you actually want it.

Ame, thanks. I think you are right. Any suggestions as to a really good one? I am near NYC if that helps; OTOH I was considering sending the stone to BGD to be evaluated for a recut, so perhaps they could do the setting too? (I have looked on their site and don't really like their stock halos.)

BGD could do it, but in NYC I would call either ERD or Steven Kirsch. SK would hand make it and that's a REALLY nice feature.

Ame, thank you. I have reached out to both ERD and SK via email and we'll see what they say. Somehow I doubt either will come in under the $2k mark, but it's definitely worth it just to have all the facts!

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I don't think it is bs for them not to be able to make the ring two tone if the ring is cast, which it probably is! That is why you go custom when you want something besides a stock setting.

I don't see why they couldn't cast the ring and build separate prongs, that kind of work is done all the time. If a company like LOGR can do it I don't see why any competent jewelry maker couldn't do it. It seems more like they don't want to do it. In that case, go somewhere else. Especially for that much money.

Yeah, I kind of feel the same. I went to this jeweler simply because he is the only guy nearby who carries this particular designer's line. He is a *very* nice guy and I have had fun talking to him about all kinds of things, and I think he really does want to make me happy. But he's definitely one of those people who lets me know, by the expression on his face, that he can't believe I could really want unplated wg. Or yellow gold, in this time in our culture of icy-bling dominance. Or a plain shank. Or worst of all, a warm-colored diamond. When I mentioned I would love to trade my F for a larger warmer stone, and I uttered the letter "M", he literally winced in pain.

As far as why he won't change the prongs: yeah. Weird and baffling. Only thing is, the high-end custom guys will want way more than $1800, I suspect.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I actually think that setting would be lovely in all-yg (14k or 18k?) but I agree with ame and Asscherhalo that the lack of flexibility would concern me enough to go elsewhere. That you are getting responses of "we can't do this" instead of explanations of why it may or may not be viable for this particular project is a red flag IMO.

Then again, you're going through your jeweller and your jeweller pretty clearly has some strong opinions of his own (unplated wg is NOT dingy, no matter what alloy, and it's only dull if it's a poor casting that won't take a good polish ) so who knows what else might be getting lost in translation here?

Yssie, I am so glad you posted because it's your lovely unplated wg rings that have inspired me to look into that option!

Yeah... this store is not a PS-vendor kind of place. They have some beautiful things, and they are nice. But... yeah. Not an ideal situation.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Okay, I absolutely love your master plan of three rings! I honestly think if you want a Memoire ring (I have a wg one as a matter of fact), go with the white gold for the Richard Landi ring and for the Memoire and then the Trinity ring will look great with either one!

Since you really love that RL halo and it is a good price (you won't get a custom one done for that price and it couldn't be a copy of that exact ring), I would just stick with that if you could just go with 18k wg. I think that will really look better in all wg if you are going to sometimes wear it with the Memoire band.

I'm so glad you like the idea! I am ridiculously excited about it.

Do you love your Memoire band? Did you get it from Pearlman's, by chance? I've been talking to them about it and they are so nice!

What do you think about having .50 ctw on the band-- sizewise, will that work nicely with the other rings, do you think?

I may go with regular white gold after all. I love the way the Petite Prong in white metal just looks like a string of diamonds sparkling on your finger, and the metal is almost invisible. Having it set in all yellow gold might sort of ruin that illusion, I think.

And, I bet you're right about custom versions being way more $$. In then end I may just stick with the original plan. But I will talk to Mark and Stephen and see what they say- that will be fun for me, whatever else happens!

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

I actually think that setting would be lovely in all-yg (14k or 18k?) but I agree with ame and Asscherhalo that the lack of flexibility would concern me enough to go elsewhere. That you are getting responses of "we can't do this" instead of explanations of why it may or may not be viable for this particular project is a red flag IMO.

Then again, you're going through your jeweller and your jeweller pretty clearly has some strong opinions of his own (unplated wg is NOT dingy, no matter what alloy, and it's only dull if it's a poor casting that won't take a good polish ) so who knows what else might be getting lost in translation here?

PS- Yssie (and others!), I am bad at imagining things like this. Do you really think the yellow would be pretty? And if I did go with yellow, would it look horrible to get my eventual 7-stone band in white metal and wear the rings together? I feel like maybe it could work, because the Memoire 7-stone has so little visible metal. And also, if you look at the T&Co 7-stone band (which I also really love), it comes in a yellow gold shank/platinum prongs version, which would have a similar look, no?

 

[asscher-engagement]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Did you consider 18K alloyed with Palladium? It doesn't need the rhodium coating - it's sort of a cross between WG and Platinum. Although I looked into having a custom ring made locally, and the goldsmith hadn't done much with that alloy, so he was nervous about working with it. I ended up going with A. Jaffe because they offer that metal option.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Okay, I absolutely love your master plan of three rings! I honestly think if you want a Memoire ring (I have a wg one as a matter of fact), go with the white gold for the Richard Landi ring and for the Memoire and then the Trinity ring will look great with either one!

Since you really love that RL halo and it is a good price (you won't get a custom one done for that price and it couldn't be a copy of that exact ring), I would just stick with that if you could just go with 18k wg. I think that will really look better in all wg if you are going to sometimes wear it with the Memoire band.

I'm so glad you like the idea! I am ridiculously excited about it.

Do you love your Memoire band? Did you get it from Pearlman's, by chance? I've been talking to them about it and they are so nice!

What do you think about having .50 ctw on the band-- sizewise, will that work nicely with the other rings, do you think?

I may go with regular white gold after all. I love the way the Petite Prong in white metal just looks like a string of diamonds sparkling on your finger, and the metal is almost invisible. Having it set in all yellow gold might sort of ruin that illusion, I think.

And, I bet you're right about custom versions being way more $$. In then end I may just stick with the original plan. But I will talk to Mark and Stephen and see what they say- that will be fun for me, whatever else happens!

No, my Memoire ring was purchased locally before I knew that Pearlman's carried them. But I love Pearlman's and have bought 3 other rings from them! Mine is 7 stones at .75 ctw. If you go with a lower weight, you need to go with more than 7 stones as 7 ten pointers just covers the top of my finger. So go with 9 or 10 stones and it should be great! And yes, the wg is perfect because all you see are diamonds! I do love the Memoire band but I have another band that I wear almost all the time so I probably should consider selling the Memoire one.

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Did you consider 18K alloyed with Palladium? It doesn't need the rhodium coating - it's sort of a cross between WG and Platinum. Although I looked into having a custom ring made locally, and the goldsmith hadn't done much with that alloy, so he was nervous about working with it. I ended up going with A. Jaffe because they offer that metal option.

Hi asscher-engagement, no, I haven't considered palladium wg! That sounds like something to look into, thanks!

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

double post, sorry!

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Okay, I absolutely love your master plan of three rings! I honestly think if you want a Memoire ring (I have a wg one as a matter of fact), go with the white gold for the Richard Landi ring and for the Memoire and then the Trinity ring will look great with either one!

Since you really love that RL halo and it is a good price (you won't get a custom one done for that price and it couldn't be a copy of that exact ring), I would just stick with that if you could just go with 18k wg. I think that will really look better in all wg if you are going to sometimes wear it with the Memoire band.

I'm so glad you like the idea! I am ridiculously excited about it.

Do you love your Memoire band? Did you get it from Pearlman's, by chance? I've been talking to them about it and they are so nice!

What do you think about having .50 ctw on the band-- sizewise, will that work nicely with the other rings, do you think?

I may go with regular white gold after all. I love the way the Petite Prong in white metal just looks like a string of diamonds sparkling on your finger, and the metal is almost invisible. Having it set in all yellow gold might sort of ruin that illusion, I think.

And, I bet you're right about custom versions being way more $$. In then end I may just stick with the original plan. But I will talk to Mark and Stephen and see what they say- that will be fun for me, whatever else happens!

No, my Memoire ring was purchased locally before I knew that Pearlman's carried them. But I love Pearlman's and have bought 3 other rings from them! Mine is 7 stones at .75 ctw. If you go with a lower weight, you need to go with more than 7 stones as 7 ten pointers just covers the top of my finger. So go with 9 or 10 stones and it should be great! And yes, the wg is perfect because all you see are diamonds! I do love the Memoire band but I have another band that I wear almost all the time so I probably should consider selling the Memoire one.

I'm so glad you told me this. I'd better visit a B&M store that carries Memoire so I can make sure I get the right weight/size.

Just curious, what's the band you wear most often?

Oh, and update: Steven got back to me (he seems super nice!) and indeed, his quote was more than double the Landi stock price. Still... even though this is going way over my original budget, how fantastic would it be to have BGD recut my stone into an ideal cut AND set it in a handforged SK ring? Swoon...

 

[sugarski]

Re: Having problems figuring out the gold color for my reset

Update: I have now heard back from ERD and SK. I'd like to discuss what they told me, but as a newbie I'm still not quite sure what is and isn't OK to post!