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Harry Winston Micropave inspired ring - Who do I get to make it?

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turboflgrl

Shiny_Rock
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Jan 15, 2009
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So, I'm settled on having one of the beautiful chunky cushions from GOG as the center for my engagement ring and have been searching for appropriate settings since. I know some have advised against a halo setting and perhaps something more simple and "antique" but that, for me personally, is not negotiable. At first I loved the Vatche Grace but have since found out about the Harry Winston Micropave. I love the delicate simplicity of the ring as well as the smaller sized halo as compared to other halo styles. The name that immediately came to mind for me was Leon Mege so I sent him a message concerning it. In a perfect world, I'd like to devote no more than $3k to the setting though I know that there is no possibility of that with Leon. I also want the claw prongs (I think that is what they're called?) that Leon is known for and I'm not sure that I could really achieve that elsewhere. But is that $2k+ worth?

My question is, who would you have custom make this ring if it were you keeping budget as well as the "delicate" look trying to be achieved in mind?

ActualHarryWinstonMicropaveRing.jpg
 
I''m currently getting my ring done from Brian Gavin. Contact Lesley for a quote! You can search the forum for information on them.
 
Another vote for Brian Gavin. The work he''s putting out lately has me floored. I am very picky. I think they would execute this with total perfection. I don''t say this willy nilly. I know they are all about quality...
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Thank you both for the recommendation of Brian Gavin. I had never heard his name before but checked out his work on here and I am floored!! Can''t believe I never noticed his work before!!

Any other opinions of where I should look or is Brian Gavin the next logical choice?
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Thanks again!
 
Date: 10/17/2009 11:59:59 PM
Author: turboflgrl
Thank you both for the recommendation of Brian Gavin. I had never heard his name before but checked out his work on here and I am floored!! Can''t believe I never noticed his work before!!

Any other opinions of where I should look or is Brian Gavin the next logical choice?
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Thanks again!
I would not hesitate to ask Mark at ERD he did ours and Cuhsion divine''s and we are both quite happy with the result.

In this thread you can see the cad images of Cushion Divine''s https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-10yr-cushion-upgrade-from-erd.124340/

Leon Mege (Artofplatinum.com) also does a great job but will be significantly more expensive $1500+ more his version is called Adrianna 811 and its not as close a copy but still very beauitful.
 
You can try Maytal Hannah too. I think she can execute that design well.
 
For combo of budget and quality work, you won't beat Brian Gavin imho

What size is your centre diamond and what is the ring size? And what metal, white gold or plat? All of these will determine whether you can make it work within your budget.
3k would not be feasible no way no how with Leon - but depending on the above, there's a possibility with BGD.

Oh, and they also do nice claw prongs
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Its a pretty straight forward CAD job, and any competent craftsperson could make it entirely by hand.
 
a friend of mine has a harry winston replica and its the best I''ve seen so far. Are you planning to buy online. All the other suggestions are good but I was blown away by my friends ring purchased from Michael F. and Co. in the diamond district of NYC. Having been on this board for a few years many people suggest staying away from the DD however, I''m not kidding you this ring is unbelievable. Not to mention the price was good and the owner, Michael, will match the price.
 
Date: 10/18/2009 1:06:02 PM
Author: CharmyPoo
When I think of HW inspired, I always think of this ring from Erica Grace. Scroll down..
http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com/get_inspired
I bleieve that ring was made by Maytal Hannah. Nice inspired copy. Some differences though:

1) Double Claws Not Single
2) Pave style not the same V Cuts it has shallower side cuts, a cleaner profile but you might see more metal from the top.
3) Halo and Bezel does not slope about 30 degrees like in HW it is at close to the same angle as the diamond girldle with diamond.
4) Lower Donut is round not squarish.
5) Diamonds are on the outside of the lower donut instead of on top.
 
I would also recommend Jonathan Klemt at Well Adorned. Jonathan made my engagement ring- we designed it using the HW micropave halo as our jumping off point. (Link here). We kept the top view look of the HW, but used double claw prongs and made a few changes to the profile view (changed the basket a bit and added surprise diamonds). I am sure that Jonathan could have done whatever we wanted. He is a pleasure to work with, his prices were the best we found, and his workmanship is absolutely stunning!
 
Date: 10/18/2009 2:16:45 PM
Author: ChunkyCushionLover

Date: 10/18/2009 1:06:02 PM
Author: CharmyPoo
When I think of HW inspired, I always think of this ring from Erica Grace. Scroll down..
http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com/get_inspired
I bleieve that ring was made by Maytal Hannah. Nice inspired copy. Some differences though:

1) Double Claws Not Single
2) Pave style not the same V Cuts it has shallower side cuts, a cleaner profile but you might see more metal from the top.
3) Halo and Bezel does not slope about 30 degrees like in HW it is at close to the same angle as the diamond girldle with diamond.
4) Lower Donut is round not squarish.
5) Diamonds are on the outside of the lower donut instead of on top.

You sure have studied this. I must admit - I never made comparisons that closely as I haven''t thought about making a HW replica.
 
Date: 10/18/2009 2:48:02 PM
Author: CharmyPoo

Date: 10/18/2009 2:16:45 PM
Author: ChunkyCushionLover


Date: 10/18/2009 1:06:02 PM
Author: CharmyPoo
When I think of HW inspired, I always think of this ring from Erica Grace. Scroll down..
http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com/get_inspired
I bleieve that ring was made by Maytal Hannah. Nice inspired copy. Some differences though:

1) Double Claws Not Single
2) Pave style not the same V Cuts it has shallower side cuts, a cleaner profile but you might see more metal from the top.
3) Halo and Bezel does not slope about 30 degrees like in HW it is at close to the same angle as the diamond girldle with diamond.
4) Lower Donut is round not squarish.
5) Diamonds are on the outside of the lower donut instead of on top.

You sure have studied this. I must admit - I never made comparisons that closely as I haven''t thought about making a HW replica.
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Yes it was my passion and I take pride in knowing the CushionDivine''s 4 Carat ring used my design. I sent a 12 page design file to create the CAD to Mark at ERD and I''m happy his jeweler executed it with almost no differences and I am obessive compulsive about setting details.

I am very much looking forward to holding our copy with the real thing at HW in Bal Harbor in two weeks to see any minute differences I may have missed :).
 
Date: 10/18/2009 3:01:23 PM
Author: ChunkyCushionLover
28.gif
Yes it was my passion and I take pride in knowing the CushionDivine''s 4 Carat ring used my design. I sent a 12 page design file to create the CAD to Mark at ERD and I''m happy his jeweler executed it with almost no differences and I am obessive compulsive about setting details.

I am very much looking forward to holding our copy with the real thing at HW in Bal Harbor in two weeks to see any minute differences I may have missed :).
More the reason why the op might consider going to Mark. I don''t think I ever saw a photo of the finished ring - do you have a thread on it?
 
WOW! Thanks for all the kind and helpful responses everyone! That''s why I love this site so much
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ChunkyCushionLover ~ cushiondivine''s ring is just beautiful! I will definitely contact Mark as well to see what kind of quote he can offer for the project. I do agree about the issue of Leon being so much more expensive. I admire his work but my boyfriend and I are still "young" (we''re both 25) and spending that kind of money on a setting scares me a bit.

CharmyPoo ~ I will definitely check out Maytal Hannah''s work. For some reason I thought it would be pricey (as in on par with Leon Mege)?

arjuanajane ~ Might I say I LOVE your cushion! We haven''t purchased ours yet but are on the waiting list. Looking for a great chunky between 1.2-1.4 carat weight. My ring size is 5 1/2 and I want it in Platinum which is bumping our cost up quite a bit. The setting budget can be bumped up a bit if absolutely necessary, but it''s more of what I''m comfortable with which is $3k or less. I''m glad to hear that BG does great claw prongs - that was one thing I was worried about since it is what I''m looking to change in the original design - thanks for the info!!

Garry H ~ That makes me feel quite a bit better that it isn''t a design that is going to require a master of his craft. Thank you for the reassurance!

emeraldlover1 ~ We are planning to do everything through online vendors. Thanks for the recommendation - we will definitely check him out. Do you perhaps have pictures of your friend''s ring or do they post on here?

LadyLilac ~ Your ring is just amazing. Thanks for your recommendation as well. I''m very impressed with the craftsmanship - it''s stunning!



Thanks again everyone - this site is such a wealth of information and giving us newbies a great chance to take it all in. You''ve all made this such a breeze and I''m so excited to get started!!!
 
Date: 10/18/2009 4:16:56 AM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Its a pretty straight forward CAD job, and any competent craftsperson could make it entirely by hand.
I beg to differ. Hand fabricating one of those properly and to a reasonable level of craftsmanship is NOT an easy job. Heck, polishing one of those properly isn’t even a particular easy job.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
 
Date: 10/18/2009 6:20:04 PM
Author: denverappraiser

Date: 10/18/2009 4:16:56 AM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Its a pretty straight forward CAD job, and any competent craftsperson could make it entirely by hand.
I beg to differ. Hand fabricating one of those properly and to a reasonable level of craftsmanship is NOT an easy job. Heck, polishing one of those properly isn’t even a particular easy job.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
Neil I think we perhaps may not agree on what is the level of "competent".
Of course the tradesperson should be competent - but the skills required to make that ring are not particularly difficult.
All four of my jewellers would make it before lunch (well, a latish lunch). One would do it with CAD and 3 by hand.
 
Date: 10/18/2009 6:20:04 PM
Author: denverappraiser



Date: 10/18/2009 4:16:56 AM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Its a pretty straight forward CAD job, and any competent craftsperson could make it entirely by hand.
I beg to differ. Hand fabricating one of those properly and to a reasonable level of craftsmanship is NOT an easy job. Heck, polishing one of those properly isn’t even a particular easy job.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver


I think we are spoiled bunch here and become a bit desensitized. I spoke to a dozen designers locally and none could deliver this ring to a reasonable standard and that was using CAD/CAM/WAX mostly. They admitted it themself and rejected the project when they saw the level of detail I expected.

We are lucky to be familiar with some of the best jewelers and designers and often forget the lower standards that the rest of the jewelry world operates in.

As for hand-made most of the shops I spoke to said doing this handmade would be even more difficult and wouldn't even attempt to do so with their in house setters, it would have to be sent to one of two setters in the whole city of Montreal. Of the half dozen or so other jeweler's I spoke to most of them were so weak on understanding the fine details I would not be confident with the finished product even if they were.

Maytal Hannah, Leon Mege, Ocean Pearlman are not doing common average work, they are very much in the minority and their time consuming handmade work is excellent beyond what most jewelery stores retail staff are aware is possible. So many store owners told me you can't do this ring using handmade techniques and were suprised this was even suggested.

Mark at ERD and BGD both use CAD/CAM/WAX and cast pieces welded together but I suggest them because they also have high quality finishing and excellent setters for pave which is far beyond the norm. CAD/CAM/WAX machines have become much more common and cheap these days, the casting and welding of the frame is quite simple by today's standards, but highly skilled setters and finishing I beleive is still quite rate. I've seen way too many bad copies of Tiffany Legacy rings and other halos that were done, simply having these machines doesn't gurantee anything especially when the pave work is the most important part of this ring.
 
Date: 10/18/2009 7:16:41 PM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Neil I think we perhaps may not agree on what is the level of ''competent''.

Of course the tradesperson should be competent - but the skills required to make that ring are not particularly difficult.

All four of my jewellers would make it before lunch (well, a latish lunch). One would do it with CAD and 3 by hand.
Probably so. As far as I know I’ve never seen the work by any of your folks but I have seen and carefully inspected the work of an awful lot of different jewelers and the vast majority are not competent to fabricate that piece. I guess the state of workmanship down under, or at least in your stores, must be better than it is here. I agree that it’s quite a bit easier as a CAD/cast job (which is part of why these sorts of designs have become more popular recently) but even with that the required finishing and assembly is no cake walk to produce that piece to a HW level of craftsmanship.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver
 
Date: 10/18/2009 4:56:31 PM
Author: turboflgrl
WOW! Thanks for all the kind and helpful responses everyone! That''s why I love this site so much
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ChunkyCushionLover ~ cushiondivine''s ring is just beautiful! I will definitely contact Mark as well to see what kind of quote he can offer for the project. I do agree about the issue of Leon being so much more expensive. I admire his work but my boyfriend and I are still ''young'' (we''re both 25) and spending that kind of money on a setting scares me a bit.


>> Leon''s work is more expensive for sure $1000 - $2000 would be my guess.

CharmyPoo ~ I will definitely check out Maytal Hannah''s work. For some reason I thought it would be pricey (as in on par with Leon Mege)?

Maytal will charge more as well but I would still get a quote could be as little as $500 - $1000 more. Its inevitable because it takes long to hand fabricate.

arjuanajane ~ Might I say I LOVE your cushion! We haven''t purchased ours yet but are on the waiting list. Looking for a great chunky between 1.2-1.4 carat weight. My ring size is 5 1/2 and I want it in Platinum which is bumping our cost up quite a bit. The setting budget can be bumped up a bit if absolutely necessary, but it''s more of what I''m comfortable with which is $3k or less. I''m glad to hear that BG does great claw prongs - that was one thing I was worried about since it is what I''m looking to change in the original design - thanks for the info!!

>>> For a different look but still gorgeous nice and a great example of a GOG cushion take a look at this http://www.vimeo.com/6401615

~ That makes me feel quite a bit better that it isn''t a design that is going to require a master of his craft. Thank you for the reassurance!

>> We disagree but you have so many masters suggested here you won''t have a problem with using any of them. I would need to see proof of examples from other vendors though before I would beleive them, both of their Pave work and careful scrutiny of their CAD design skills.

emeraldlover1 ~ We are planning to do everything through online vendors. Thanks for the recommendation - we will definitely check him out. Do you perhaps have pictures of your friend''s ring or do they post on here?

LadyLilac ~ Your ring is just amazing. Thanks for your recommendation as well. I''m very impressed with the craftsmanship - it''s stunning!

Thanks again everyone - this site is such a wealth of information and giving us newbies a great chance to take it all in. You''ve all made this such a breeze and I''m so excited to get started!!!
 
I''m sure I can convince her to let me take some pictures this week. However, if you are soley going to deal with people online then I''d suggest using a vendor posted here. Having seen ERD and Leon Mege work first hand in person I''d suggest Leon over Mark''s cad work. He''s good but if you want the HW replica Leon is your better bet online. Again, having seen the work personally that is my advice. Unfortunatley the other source I suggested doesn''t do work online so its probabably not the best suggestion based on your needs. I''m sure you already know that there will be some differences in a custom design for copyright reasons.
 
Date: 10/18/2009 2:16:45 PM
Author: ChunkyCushionLover
Date: 10/18/2009 1:06:02 PM

Author: CharmyPoo

When I think of HW inspired, I always think of this ring from Erica Grace. Scroll down..

http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com/get_inspired
I bleieve that ring was made by Maytal Hannah. Nice inspired copy. Some differences though:


1) Double Claws Not Single

2) Pave style not the same V Cuts it has shallower side cuts, a cleaner profile but you might see more metal from the top.

3) Halo and Bezel does not slope about 30 degrees like in HW it is at close to the same angle as the diamond girldle with diamond.

4) Lower Donut is round not squarish.

5) Diamonds are on the outside of the lower donut instead of on top.

Just hopping on for a quick clarification - our ring was not made by Maytal: though I drool over her work often, I have not yet had the pleasure of working with her :)
 
Date: 10/18/2009 10:14:15 PM
Author: ericad

Date: 10/18/2009 2:16:45 PM
Author: ChunkyCushionLover

Date: 10/18/2009 1:06:02 PM

Author: CharmyPoo

When I think of HW inspired, I always think of this ring from Erica Grace. Scroll down..

http://www.jewelsbyericagrace.com/get_inspired
I bleieve that ring was made by Maytal Hannah. Nice inspired copy. Some differences though:


1) Double Claws Not Single

2) Pave style not the same V Cuts it has shallower side cuts, a cleaner profile but you might see more metal from the top.

3) Halo and Bezel does not slope about 30 degrees like in HW it is at close to the same angle as the diamond girldle with diamond.

4) Lower Donut is round not squarish.

5) Diamonds are on the outside of the lower donut instead of on top.

Just hopping on for a quick clarification - our ring was not made by Maytal: though I drool over her work often, I have not yet had the pleasure of working with her :)
There was some reference back in threads a while before to an LA designer who did the ring or one of your other ones who was it?
 
We work with a number of vendors (from LA to NY and in between) and are in the lengthy process of designing a suite of our own branded settings.

I can tell you that our clients have been ecstatic with the quality and craftsmanship of the pieces that we have received from the vendor mentioned above, including those settings we have commissioned from other jewelers we work with.

If you have specific questions regarding the specs of these rings, I’d be happy to give you more info.
 
I remember reading somewhere that Leon did some custom work for Harry Winston. Can anyone verify this? In that case, I would go with Leon. I, too, first thought of BGD. Some of the work that they have been turning out lately is really nice.
 
welcome to the GOG siggy cushion waiting list. thankfully, our desired specs aren't the same so we won't be fighting over one of those fiery beauts. LOL!

do you live near GOG? they have a great selections of settings and also create custom settings.

based on the RAVE reviews from this site, i would also recommend ERD.


email marie and let her know your needs/wants/desires. she is GREAT with returning emails quickly and is very knowledgeable with settings. email mark at ERD as well.

if you LOVE halo settings by ALL means choose a halo. i have narrowed down my selection to 2 settings (both halos). one is a tacori and the other is a very antiquey sheldon speyer. leaning towards the SS (with some modifications) as it more suits my style and think it would be a FABULOUS match with a cushion.
 
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