Gabriel and Co Platinum/Palladium setting durability

OCD_about_angles · Jun 18, 2013

Hi All,

I'm close to purchasing a Gabriel and Co platinum setting for an engagement ring (and maybe the matching wedding band too), but I have found out that they use a 95% Platinum 5% Palladium alloy which has a Vickers hardness around 60 HV. That is slightly better than pure 24kt gold at 40HV, but softer than 22kt gold at 70 HV. Does anyone who have a Gabriel and Co platinum piece, or a platinum/palladium ring, speak about their durability and scratch resistance? I'd hate to buy a platinum setting only to have it scratch up so easily.

Thank you in advance.

diamondseeker2006 · Jun 18, 2013

I have never heard of that here. Generally palladium is a alloy in white gold. I would not feel good about Vickers hardness of 60. We normally see alloys of iridium or ruthenium for platinum. You need to have this thread moved to Rocky Talky where settings and diamonds are discussed. You have a far better chance of a jeweler or appraiser seeing your question there. Ask for it to be moved bu clicking "report concern".

OCD_about_angles · Jun 19, 2013

Ruthenium, Iridium, and even Cobalt would be a better alloy if I had a choice. Too bad Gabriel and Co won't use a different alloy (I've asked). Pt950/Pd is a soft material which is good for finer details in their designs, but I just don't want to end up with a nice looking piece that will turn to mush over time (Or worst, have the prongs open up and lose the center diamond!!! )

I could be over analyzing things and 60HV is plenty hard for jewelry. I am only going off of the info I've found regarding the other blends of platinum. Mark Morrell, one of the highly appraised designers recommended on PS, stated that even 950PT/Ir with 80HV is a very soft alloy "not resistant to scratching, bending, and being deformed and dented by impacts". (http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm) I am concerned about the 60HV, which is why I would like to ask for real world experiences with G&Co pieces and/or Platinum/Palladium alloy settings.

As a reference:

24kt pure gold is around 40HV
950Pt/Palladium is around 60HV
22kt gold is around 70HV
950Pt/Iridium is around 80HV
900Pt/Iridium is around 110HV
950Pt/ Ruthenium is around 135HV
950Pt/ Cobalt is around 135HV

Sources:
http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=platinum_alloys&DokuWiki=e4bfbcf8fafcec3d735793ad12face75#platinum-palladium_alloys
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/platinum-durability.htm
https://www.pricescope.com/journal/overview_common_alloys_used_jewelry
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Gold-karat-hardness-and-color/10000000000707860/g.html