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diamond certification

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allygirl

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
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OKAY, so I"ve picked the setting FINALLY!

NOW, I have to figure out how to pick a diamond. New to the whole thing, I went and looked at several diamonds today and saw a few. There were International Gemologic something, GIA and I thought GSA but I could have that confused.

Any help would be appreciated. The diamonds in the seteting are VS2''s. What should I look for mostly? HELP!!

THANKS!
 
I would stick with GIA and AGS. They are the most reliable and trustworthy.

IGI (which is what you were referring to) is really quite lax and I would NOT buy a diamond graded by them. EGL can be cheaper than GIA or AGS but you have to know what you are doing to get a good deal and not pay for something that you are not getting. EGL USA may be considered if the diamond is independently appraised prior to purchase. With EGL thought, the clarity and color grades may be exaggerated so you need to be careful.
 
are you wanting to purchase a stone from a PS vendor online or try and find something at your local jewelers?
 
I am looking to purchase from my jeweler . I saw one today that I really really liked vs1 1.52 round color g. It was certified by International Gemology something...(can''t remember the entire name). Not getting good feedback so far on IGI. I reallythink I''m just going to tell them that I want to see GIA . ANy more thoughts from anyone one color , clarity etc. As I said the setting is vs2 color g.

THANKS! Everyone is really helpful here!
 
If the setting is G VS2, then I''d ask for H VS2 if it were me. You can go down a grade in color and be fine. Just understand that you will pay more buying from the regular jewlery store. But definitely ask for GIA only.
 
Definitely stick to GIA stones. How low you can go in color is very personal but many people don''t see any color in a H. If your jeweler can find an eye clean SI stone, you can save some money there too. You''re going to want to learn what you can about CUT because that is the most important "C" there is, espeically in a round. If the stone is too deep, if will look smaller than it actually is.
 
I''m sorry for the questions, but what do you mean by "eye-clean"? They were putting every stone under a 10X magnification microscope.

I also don''t know what you mean by a stone "depth". (if it is too deep, it will appear smaller).

ANY MORE HELP, I''d surely appreciate.

Sorry for all of my questions...

Just trying to make an informed decision.
 
Date: 8/3/2006 9:53:42 PM
Author: allygirl
I''m sorry for the questions, but what do you mean by ''eye-clean''? They were putting every stone under a 10X magnification microscope.


I also don''t know what you mean by a stone ''depth''. (if it is too deep, it will appear smaller).


ANY MORE HELP, I''d surely appreciate.


Sorry for all of my questions...


Just trying to make an informed decision.

SI stones are included. some have visible inclusions that you can see with your eyes, no magnification. Some are "eye clean" meaning that even though the stone has inclusions you can''t see them.

when you are looking at a cert. if gives a total depth for a stone. you want a stone to be 59%-62%..if for example my old stone had a depth of 66%. it weighed 1.2 carats but was only 6.5mm wide. the same width of an ideal cut 1 carat stone. so i paid for 1.2 carats but the stone only looked like a one carat. Goodoldgold has a wonderful tutorial on their website that will explain things much better than me
37.gif
 
Trying to learn still more...

Got a few responses last night. Now, I am hoping for more! What is most important and least important? Should I be more concerned about more things than others? It''s all so confusing....
 
I''ll try to reply frrom someone else who''s not as experienced as these other folks on this board.

First, everyone has different opions about what''s "most important," but what PS says below is gennerally good advice:


4 C''s Effect on
$ Beauty
Cut $ Most
Color $$ A lot
Clarity $$$ Some
Carat $$$$ ?


So, when looking at Blue nile, I saw a 10c rock that was about half the price of a 7c, because it wasn''t cut as well.

So, start with the Cut you want. Unfortunaletly saying "ideal" isn''t enough. You need to compare the angles of the diamond using the Cut Advisor here or somewhere else. For example, a rock with a 90% angle on top would be bad.

Next, Color and Clarity. To me, both are equal importance. The best Color is D. D means it has no yellow, basically. D,E, and F are all considered about equal whiteness, but F is a lot cheaper than D. Majoirty opinion here seems to be you can go to a F or G without any worry, and maybe lower.

Clarity to me is very important. A ratting of I means you''ll probably see chunks. IF = Internally Flawless means no bits on the inside. VVS1 and VVS2 are just below IF, and seem to be a good balence of price and clarity. You''d want to look at a stone of VS1 or VS2 before buying, but may be perfectly eye clean as a VVS2.

Carat, IMHO, just sort of works itself out after you decide those other factors. For example, if you have $5000 to spend, and work your way thorugh what Color, Cut, and Clarity you want, the Caret range will be limited enough to make the selection easy. Or, if you absolutly want a 3c ring, then start with all the 3cs, anf get the best Cut -> Color -> Clarity you can within your budget.

Final item: Fluorescence. Strong or Medium is usually not good unless you''re in the sun: makes the diamond glow in UV light. Good for outdoors, bad for office, indoors. Usually Very Faint or Faint may be OK.
 
Ally, if you stick to GIA certificates, then ask to see Excellent cut ONLY. Polish and symmetry should be very good or excellent. You''ll weed out a lot of bad diamonds if you stick to these parameters. And H VS2 and possibly SI1 would be what I''d suggest you aim for. Remember that you''re likely to pay a good bit more for the diamond at a regular jewelry store.
 
DS, I''d say you can see GIA VG cut. Steep/deeps are included in the GIA EX grade, yet stones can be unfairly dinged for girdle treatments and PA of 40.4 and below. GIA EX does not guarantee a good stone.
 
Ally,

Good luck with this process. A couple of thought:

1) I''d agree with Michael''s forrest, but would do some landscaping. For example, consider VVS too much attn to clarity not visible, and maybe move it up a level, targeting VS2 & SI1, giving some consideration to VS1 & SI2. Also, many here no problems with any florescence.

Also, re:


Date: 8/6/2006 7:55:06 PM
Author: JulieN
DS, I''d say you can see GIA VG cut. Steep/deeps are included in the GIA EX grade, yet stones can be unfairly dinged for girdle treatments and PA of 40.4 and below. GIA EX does not guarantee a good stone.
Julie has a good insight about including GIA vg probably. Then, consider specific crown & pavilion angles, consider ignoring GIAs valuation otherwise, and run it through the HCA. Also, consider constraining review to either GIA or AGS. If AGS0, consider ignoring HCA.
 
Date: 8/6/2006 7:55:06 PM
Author: JulieN
DS, I''d say you can see GIA VG cut. Steep/deeps are included in the GIA EX grade, yet stones can be unfairly dinged for girdle treatments and PA of 40.4 and below. GIA EX does not guarantee a good stone.
I know, Julie. But it was apparent that she doesn''t understand about the measurements, so broadening her search to include all potential GIA "very goods" is going to potentially bring a lot of not-so-great stones her way. I mean, the odds of getting a good stone would be better by sticking to GIA Excellent over Very Good, wouldn''t it?
 
Diamondseeker has a good insight about including GIA vg probably.

Heck, I''ll agree with anyone!
 
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