Custom Settings for Gemstones? (not sure if this jeweler thinks I'm easy prey...)

[ariaaaa]

I recently have been contacting a few jewelers in my area to inquire about their custom and pre-made options for an oval sapphire I would like set into a ring. I don't have a custom design in mind so much (really just a simple solitaire setting), and the dimensions for this stone seem quite standard - about 9.6x7.1 for around 2.3cts.

One of the responses I got back told me "If we want the stone to fit securely in a ring the ring typically would be made to the exact dimensions of the sapphire. On occasion there may be a ring that will accommodate the stone, but this is not always the case. Sapphire are heavier than diamond so a 2ct sapphire will have measurements that are slight smaller than a 2ct diamond"

Does the weight to size ratio genuinely matter here? Even a two different 2ct diamond ovals can be cut differently and face up larger / smaller than each other, so I guess I'm failing to understand why I would specifically need to run a custom route.

I've lurked in these threads forever and it does sound like most PS-ers have their stones set in custom settings, but I'd love some education as to if I'm missing something or if this jeweler is trying to push me towards a needlessly expensive route!

 

[lovedogs]

Yes, the jeweler is correct that a 2ct sapphire and 2ct diamond won't have the same dimensions (sapphires are heavier than diamonds). He or she is also correct that it will likely require a custom "head" because that size isn't standard (e.g. you can't just buy a stock ssetting to fit those dimensions).

 

[ariaaaa]

Yes, the jeweler is correct that a 2ct sapphire and 2ct diamond won't have the same dimensions (sapphires are heavier than diamonds). He or she is also correct that it will likely require a custom "head" because that size isn't standard (e.g. you can't just buy a stock ssetting to fit those dimensions).

Gotcha! One more question if you don't mind -- a lot of the really big online brands (thinking Blue Nile, Brilliant Earth, etc) have these 'choose a setting' options regardless of if you're purchasing a diamond or a gemstone, and there's no need to build a CAD model (at least that i'm aware of). Is the quality and security of the setting just much worse in that instance?

 

[LilAlex]

Is the quality and security of the setting just much worse in that instance?

No. I think they just have a wide range of sizes in stock since they make and sell a lot of rings.

 

[voce]

Just want to say you might be able to find a stock 10x7 setting for your sapphire, but it might not be a perfect fit as curvature and widest point for ovals vary.

The biggest issue that could go wrong, if you buy a stock setting meant for a diamond, is if your sapphire is cute deeper than typical diamond proportions. This tends to happen with sapphires, if a crystal is lighter in color and the lapidary wants it to show a more saturated color face up.

 

[Bron357]

Well, I disagree with a caveat.
I prefer to buy my settings pre loved and then fit a gemstone. Claws can be repositioned, within reason. And with a ring setting it is possible to replace the head if necessary (that’s the prong bits). This is only possible with claw settings. Bezel settings, rim settings etc have to be made to measure.
these are the rings that I bought pre loved and had gemstones set into with some minor adjustment.

 

[qubitasaurus]

If you can find a setting for a 9.5×7 mm oval stone you should be fine. Shouldn't really be a setting for a daimond though, as sapphires tend to be cut deeper and a daimond setting will probably not have enough space to accommodate the depth of the sapphire (although I'm not sure in your case, as the sapphires sounds like it's not very deep based on face up size and ct weight). You really shouldn't have any problems with a setting that matches to within 0.2 mm in either dimension.

Most of us would either commision a custom mount or have a vendor like jewelery whoo or mydaimondzone build a semi custom version of one of their standard mounts to fit that stone as 9.5×7 isn't that standard. You will be able to find the setting catalogue or Stullar on line though if you look hard enough. You can check the options for standard prefab mounts in the size you want there.

 

[YC]

Most of my rings are made using ready made settings and my stones were not cut to the exact mm ( to the first decimal place). I would suggest looking the rings based on stone size rather than carat size (in your case, probably around 9x7mm; any larger, the metal may show, depending on the base). However, you will need to have the ring and stone to check if they fit each other. Do your jewellers have this option for you to look at the settings prior to being committed to the purchase, should the stone not fit?

Edited : the above works for faceted stones but generally not for cabs. Cabs usually need customised settings.

 

[YC]

I have attached photos of several pieces, all sapphires, all in ready made settings. I photographed them with measurements from the certs and note that none are exact standardised measurements.
Apologise for the lousy photos-all were taken in dim indoor lighting.



The metal under this ring shows a bit at the sides.

 

[ariaaaa]

Thank you all so much for the help and for sharing photos of your beautiful rings!! I've certainly learned a lot and I think what everyone is saying makes complete sense. I guess i always just assumed that the head / prongs could be adjusted or built to some degree, but couldn't understand why it required full custom.

I've reached out to a few different jewelers to understand more and genuinely appreciate all the education

Can't wait to pop in a photo of the finished product soon!

 

[ariaaaa]

I have attached photos of several pieces, all sapphires, all in ready made settings. I photographed them with measurements from the certs and note that none are exact standardised measurements.
Apologise for the lousy photos-all were taken in dim indoor lighting.



The metal under this ring shows a bit at the sides.

I'm drooling....

 

[T L]

A lot depends on the depth. Your sapphire is not a calibrated size, so the closest pre made sizes would be 9x7 or 10x8, but if the depth or crown height of your stone is very high, it won’t be secure in either one of those calibrated sizes might not be secure. Sapphires typically have heavy pavilions.