Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedback

[aron7awol]

I am having BGD create a custom setting for this 1.23 I SI1 RB Brian Gavin Blue center stone that I purchased from them:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamonds/diamond-details/1.230-i-si1-round-diamond-ags-bl-104063219011

The ring size will be 3.75 and made in platinum with BG Signature melee.

I have just received my first round of CADs from BGD. Below I will post the inspiration images I sent them, and the resulting CADs. I won't share my thoughts yet, as I'm looking for honest, unbiased feedback. I'd like them to duplicate the inspiration ring as closely as possible. Note that the first inspiration image is missing millgrain which is shown on the rest.

Inspiration Images (sorry some are blurry):







CADs:





I appreciate any feedback any of you can give me!

 

[JulieN]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

If you want them to duplicate it as exactly as possible, why don't you buy the original...?

 

[aron7awol]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

If you want them to duplicate it as exactly as possible, why don't you buy the original...?

I figured the BGD workmanship would be better and I love the idea of BG Signature Melee surrounding the BG Blue.

 

[SB621]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

If you want them to duplicate it as exactly as possible, why don't you buy the original...?

I figured the BGD workmanship would be better and I love the idea of BG Signature Melee surrounding the BG Blue.

Just my .02cents but custom work of exact replicas I find most people to be disappointed in, just because it is actually much harder then ppl think to dublicate exactly another designer. If this is truly the ring you want then go with the orginal. If you wanted a ring inspired by the orginal with some changes that can be a different story. I personally think Brian makes GORGEOUS settings and I love his work so by no means will your custom ring be lacking in any way...but it will be different then your inspiration piece.

This is a great thread about making custom pieces if you are interested: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-pieces-how-often-do-they-get-it-right.186069/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-pieces-how-often-do-they-get-it-right.186069/[/URL]

With that said my opinion of the CADs is that they are fairly close. Is that an airline(s) on the shank though? I can't tell if it is a break or just metal. I would have them taper the shank down further and have the 3 rows of pave combine higher up like the orginal picture (10 and 2 oclock) - right now it meets and combines closer to the half way point. I also think where the shank comes up to meet the basket/ halo is much thicker then your inspiration.

I do like how Brian changed the peg prongs to claw prongs....much much nicer. And I think he got the tilt of the halo but it is hard to see in those pictures. Can you ask for a better angle?

 

[CharmyPoo]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

I think the original ring is gorgeous and the pave looks so well done. I honestly would seriously consider buying the original that is made already unless price is a factor here.

 

[aron7awol]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far!

The price difference isn't much, so that isn't a big factor. It's more that I know the BGD quality will be high, I bought the center stone from them, and I know their melee is beautifully cut. I've also already started this custom process so I'd rather not pull out now. I do realize they can't copy the inspiration ring exactly, so I am expecting there to be some minor differences. I would, however, like them to include the two major features:

1. The 3-row pillow halo with the sag on the sides.
2. The 3-row domed pave shank, graduating out on the shoulders up into the halo.

I was actually very disappointed with this first set of CADs. I thought the large amount of bare metal in between the melee on the halo and shank looked terrible, so much so on the shank that it almost looks like a 3-way split shank. It looks like Sarahbear's observations were very similar to mine...

The issues I noticed:
1. It is missing the third smaller row of pave on the very inside of the halo, which you can clearly see in the first inspiration photo. Adding this third row should then push the other two rows closer together, eliminating the bare metal showing on the halo as well.
2. The band is way too wide in general and doesn't seem to be "domed" enough. I think the shank should basically be the standard BGD 3-row domed pave with its nice tightly-packed staggered melee but then have the pave graduate on the shoulders, starting near 10 and 2 o'clock like Sarahbear suggested. This should also eliminate the bare metal showing on the shank.
3. There is a bead of millgrain missing on the halo. This may not matter at all, but it caught my eye.

What I like about these first CADs:
1. The prongs.

I agree that I really need a side profile view to further evaluate the design, especially the sag in the halo. I have requested one for the next CAD revision. I also don't think Brian himself has been directly involved in my project much, so I am also planning on discussing the next revision with him to get his thoughts. I have only dealt with Jamie other than one short phone conversation I had with the design manager Avi at the beginning of the process, and she has been great.

I'm hopeful that if they fix the issues I listed above, the result will be what I'm looking for.

 

[04diamond<3]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

HOT DOG!!!! Either setting will provide UBER bling!!! Gorgeous!!

 

[chrono]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

The original is so much nicer, flows better and delicate. The current CAD will require major adjustments. I would rather eat the CAD cost and just get the original. The CAD shows a chunky and metal heavy design, less 3 sided pave and more of a 3 rows of melees. There is also no curvature to the taper where the shank comes up to the halo. The halo is so huge as to dwarf the center diamond instead of enhancing it.

 

[Laila619]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

I think with the BGD setting, the shank looks way too clunky. In the inspiration ring, the shank tapers a bit and it doesn't look too wide. The BGD one doesn't achieve this though. I'd ask them to taper/thin the shank a bit.

 

[Laila619]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

The original is so much nicer, flows better and delicate. The current CAD will require major adjustments. I would rather eat the CAD cost and just get the original. The CAD shows a chunky and metal heavy design, less 3 sided pave and more of a 3 rows of melees. There is also no curvature to the taper where the shank comes up to the halo. The halo is so huge as to dwarf the center diamond instead of enhancing it.

Should have just quoted Chrono!

 

[CharmyPoo]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

I am sorry to say that I also agree with Chrono. For me, I would eat the cad cost and just buy the original to avoid disappointment. The cad looks to be a completely different ring to me. Not just the extra space but the halo curvature and the overall flow of the ring.

I really do recommend sticking with the original unless there are aspects you want to change. BGD melee may be better but I don't think the difference in melee quality overcomes the benefits of the aspects of your original ring.

 

[CharmyPoo]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

Who is the original ring made by?

 

[JulieN]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

For a 3.75 size, would the original maker have to make it to order? if so, maybe request highest quality melee, as i would buy the original.

 

[aron7awol]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

The original is made by Demarco. They seem to be a relatively new brand, and I couldn't find any feedback on their quality. Since the ring size is 3.75, yes, they would have to make it to order. I don't think requesting higher quality melee is an option, as I tried to find out what type of melee they used and could not. They would also almost certainly increase the cost.

I did the math, and including the CAD fee, if I go with the original at this point, it would cost me 18% more. Unfortunately, I intended to get the original all along until going custom was recommended to me here on PS in my previous thread where I was shopping for my center stone.

I think the main issue right now is that the BGD design team really missed the boat with these first CADs. When I was on the fence trying to decide if I should go custom, they told me they could replicate the original design almost exactly. I think anyone can look at the photos of the original and the CADs and point out major differences. I don't see that as a general "custom" problem, I just see a lack of attention to detail from the design team. I'm hoping that getting Brian more involved will fix that.

 

[Niel]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

well first off i am very jealous of your finger size

But secondly, as someone who is already redoing a ring I got less than a year ago, 18% is far less than the cost of starting from scratch once the ring is finished

The original ring looks very fluid and really lovely. Some of the reason it doesnt look like the cad is because cads are more chunky, but also, i cant see it looking the same in the end, unfortunately. I agree its worth asking the store that sells the inspiration ring if they can make sure to use top quality melee, i mean, what does it hurt to ask, right?

Its going to be blingtastic on your tiny finger

 

[SB621]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

I'm really surprised that PSers recommended going custom on an exact replica ring. I think the majority of us know if you are completley in love with a ring then buy it. To replicate down to the detail is impossible. First off there is copyright infringment, then the other problem is that no matter how good you are- you just can't get all the details correct.

Personally I would suck it up and just deal with the 18%. I really doubt you will notice the difference between brian's pave and the orginal pave. My biggest mistake with jewelry is not listening to my gut and forging ahead. It has cost me more money, time and frustration then I care to recall. This is a beautiful and intricate ering and no matter how many rounds of CADs you go through I just don't see any vendor getting it within 85% of the orginal look. If you are ok with that they forge ahead. If not then you need to step back and rethink.

So if you are dead set on continuing to use BGD here are some additional thoughts.

- First don't be discouraged by the 1st round of CADs. This is what they are supposed to be for. Get discouraged if you are on the 3rd or 4th round and they are still missing the mark.
-To me in the inspiration ring it also looks like the first halo has smaller melee then the outer one. I would bring this to their attention.
-Mili-graining is no biggie. That is a finishing detail. So point it out to them, but to me I would be less worried about it then some of the other major details they are missing.

 

[CharmyPoo]

Re: Custom BGD "Pillow Halo" Setting - Looking for CAD Feedb

I just read your other thread and see what happened there. Apologies that I missed your first thread in getting advice. Some times we do get different flavors of advice depending on who is responding. I am one of those that are obsessed with settings and even with the best diamond won't be happy unless it has an awesome home to live in. I am also one who is obsessed with pave work and the flow of the ring. There are others who are less picky about settings and find the diamond itself the most important. I believe there is a happy balance.

With that said, as I read your thread, your girlfriend is set on that setting and she will be very sad if it doesn't look like that. I feel that unless BGD can get it right (ie. exactly because frankly there is nothing I would change about the original) - your girlfriend will be disappointed when she sees the ring. I can see why she loves the original and even I would be greatly disappointed if I received that ring in the CAD. With that said, it doesn't hurt to give BGD a few more changes to get it right if you aren't in a time crunch but I honestly don't expect it will ever get to where you need it to.

The original ring itself is not difficult to replicate if you are working with say Leon Mege and Steven kirsch. I have seen them make many rings with that flow, delicacy, curves, and quality of pave all the time. I have not seen that level of detail and flow executed with cad/cast custom work.

Some pointers on how to fix it:
1. BGD made 3 rows of pave like 3 separate shanks it appears. This is 3 rows of micropave we want!
2. The halo is completely wrong. It should be a rounded 3 rows of micropave with the center row having larger diamonds - it is a single halo. The effect is simply stunning. The CAD has two separate halos separated by an airline.
3. The shank of the original has a slight curve upwards. The CAD shows a convex design - huge difference. This is one of the things that happened in my original e-ring where we were told we were getting the exact same thing. I was so disappointed in that ring and it was ultimately scrapped.
4. Notice the gentle scoop in the original halo. The CAD is not like that ... it is a plain flat halo.
5. The original ring has a much thinner shank which works well with the your girlfriend's tiny fingers (I am a size 2.75 and can relate). This CAD is at least 2.5 times wider and personally I think it will totally overwhelm her!!
6. The original ring has a tapering effect on the shank ...

I just have to stop going on because the more I look at this ... I am simply not comfortable that it can be corrected. I really really don't want your girlfriend to be disappointed. I know what it feels like to fall in love with a setting and for it not to turn out.

I am not against custom work and in fact .. almost all of my favourite pieces are custom made. I just have a strong belief that custom work is only successful when you give the right job to the right person - meaning someone that has proven themselves capable of delivering upon certain designs and styles. The ring you have shown is best aligned to the likes of Steven Kirsch and Leon Mege. In fact, I would totally select Steven Kirsch for this job and no question in my mind.

If you are willing to reconsider, I would get a quote from Steven Kirsch and pending what that number is ... you can decide if you want to go with the original or not. The only reason I am even suggesting this is because I think the quote might come in a bit cheaper than the original and I am more confident Steven can get it right. If you go with the original, I would absolutely get the platinum version. Original = safest route.

In my mind, 19% is more is not a lot to pay especially if the ring you are getting won't be one she loves (all sunken cost).