Cushion cut gems and settings

[luvthemstrawberries]

I am in the process of narrowing down my choices for an e-ring which I am then supposed to give the BF to make the final decisions. I am most likely going to have a sapphire center, but that doesn''t really make a difference for this thread. I am particularly interested in cushion cuts, and I wanted to see what everyone here has in cushion cut gemstones and settings! Any info/descriptions and pictures would be great, as I''m just trying to get some ideas and see how different size gems look (I''m a size 6.5) and how you''ve set them. I''ve been looking at gems online for a while, and I do plan to head out this weekend to check out some settings as well, but I wanted to see first what all you creative people on here have!!

PS - Can basically any setting for a cushion cut diamond be used for a gem as well?

 

[Pandora II]

Date: 8/21/2008 4:25:50 PM
Author:luvthemstrawberries
I am in the process of narrowing down my choices for an e-ring which I am then supposed to give the BF to make the final decisions. I am most likely going to have a sapphire center, but that doesn''t really make a difference for this thread. I am particularly interested in cushion cuts, and I wanted to see what everyone here has in cushion cut gemstones and settings! Any info/descriptions and pictures would be great, as I''m just trying to get some ideas and see how different size gems look (I''m a size 6.5) and how you''ve set them. I''ve been looking at gems online for a while, and I do plan to head out this weekend to check out some settings as well, but I wanted to see first what all you creative people on here have!!

PS - Can basically any setting for a cushion cut diamond be used for a gem as well?

You''d need to have a calibrated stone if you want to use an existing setting - coloured stones aren''t cut to set sizes on the whole. If you''re going custom then you can do any setting you like - except I would do a real tension setting.

My e-ring is a cushion cut 1.42ct tsavorite in a custom setting.

Cushions are my favourite cut.

There are lots of pics here.

 

[minebender]

Thanks for the info on your ring, pandora. I''ve been seriously drooling over your avatar.

All of the info in this thread has been very helpful...I''m months away from fulfilling my own gemstone dreams, but it never hurts to start planning early, does it?

 

[LostSapphire]

Date: 8/21/2008 7:47:34 PM
Author: Pandora II

very KOOL ring box.

LS

 

[Pandora II]

LOL, they''re cheapy ones from ebay. I keep it in my bag in case I have to take it off during the day. It arrived in a very smart red and black wooden one...

If you like boxes, ebay has hundreds. I buy the leatherette ones for presents as they look quite smart - I buy a lot of jewellery as gifts, so they come in very handy.

 

[LostSapphire]

Date: 8/21/2008 8:46:57 PM
Author: Pandora II
LOL, they''re cheapy ones from ebay. I keep it in my bag in case I have to take it off during the day. It arrived in a very smart red and black wooden one...

If you like boxes, ebay has hundreds. I buy the leatherette ones for presents as they look quite smart - I buy a lot of jewellery as gifts, so they come in very handy.

I''ve got quite a fetish for boxes...but in a *good* way!

The shape of yours is very distinct and suits the ring.

LS

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 8/21/2008 7:47:34 PM
Author: Pandora II

PS - Can basically any setting for a cushion cut diamond be used for a gem as well?

You''d need to have a calibrated stone if you want to use an existing setting - coloured stones aren''t cut to set sizes on the whole. If you''re going custom then you can do any setting you like - except I would do a real tension setting.

My e-ring is a cushion cut 1.42ct tsavorite in a custom setting.

Cushions are my favourite cut.

There are lots of pics here.

Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

 

[FrekeChild]

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I've been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It's basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...

Gemstones are complicated.

 

[GemRite]

What type of cushion are you looking for square or rectangular? I like the cushion rings with dual prongs for the setting like Pandora''s ring! BTW Pandora!! Awesome ring Tsav''s are my favorite green stones and at the top of my list for gemstones. I enjoy cutting them. The dual prongs help secure the stone better in my opinion, and setting is a little easier and less likely to chip it. But if you are not setting it yourself, then I would worry about chipping.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 8/22/2008 2:15:03 AM
Author: FrekeChild

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It''s basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...

Gemstones are complicated.

This much is certainly true!

Thanks for the answer Freke..so, I know it will depend on each piece of rough, but does that mean then when I ask someone to cut a 7.7mm cushion, it may not necessarily make the most of the rough? Or put another way, there''s a chance it may not be that pretty..?
Can a good cutter "get around this", or does it just depend on what the rough lends itself to ( so to speak)..?

Sorry strawberries about the small threadjack

 

[Pandora II]

Date: 8/22/2008 3:35:28 AM
Author: GemRite
What type of cushion are you looking for square or rectangular? I like the cushion rings with dual prongs for the setting like Pandora''s ring! BTW Pandora!! Awesome ring Tsav''s are my favorite green stones and at the top of my list for gemstones. I enjoy cutting them. The dual prongs help secure the stone better in my opinion, and setting is a little easier and less likely to chip it. But if you are not setting it yourself, then I would worry about chipping.

Thank you - tsavs are also my favourite stones and I was lucky enough to find one with just a hint of blue and no yellow tones. Mind you, it looks different in different lights. The above picture was taken with the stone under diffused lighting which adds a lot of contrast, but increases the sparkle. The other pics were in daylight which gives a much softer look.

Please don''t talk to me about chipping. It happened - but is now all fixed. It has been re-set since that photo - my husband managed to mangle the prongs by accident (story posted somewhere on PS) and so they had to be remade and the stone was set 1mm lower than before. They did an excelllent job, but boy was I paranoid when it was being done. I sent a letter with it to the bench begging them to be careful with it!

Strawberry, here''s a picture of a square cushion - another tsavorite (this and Harriet''s are possibly the finest I have ever seen).

I present... the Pokey Special (a Leon Mege)

 

[luvthemstrawberries]

I am looking at mostly square cushions, but I have seen a rectangle or two that I liked. I have a few squares I''m interested in that are on some websites. I can show them if yall want to give any suggestions - can I post pictures from someone''s cutting website on here?

 

[luvthemstrawberries]

Date: 8/22/2008 5:39:44 AM
Author: arjunajane

Date: 8/22/2008 2:15:03 AM
Author: FrekeChild

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It''s basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...

Gemstones are complicated.

This much is certainly true!

Thanks for the answer Freke..so, I know it will depend on each piece of rough, but does that mean then when I ask someone to cut a 7.7mm cushion, it may not necessarily make the most of the rough? Or put another way, there''s a chance it may not be that pretty..?
Can a good cutter ''get around this'', or does it just depend on what the rough lends itself to ( so to speak)..?

Sorry strawberries about the small threadjack

arjunajane - Hehe no problem - you''re asking exact questions I had as well! Sounds like we''re on the same page.

Pandora - I love your stone and ring - how long did it take you to design it? And I read the threads on Harriet''s ring and the "Pokey Special" hehe - both amazing rings. I would LOVE to have the creativity and patience to design my own, but I''m such a perfectionist and would repeatedly question myself as to whether I want this little detail changed, or that little stone added in...

There are so many choices out there now already...

 

[luvthemstrawberries]

Date: 8/22/2008 2:15:03 AM
Author: FrekeChild

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It''s basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...

Gemstones are complicated.

So if I have a gem in mind that is 6.5mm square cushion, or 7.3mm round, then I''m going to have to have a custom setting made, is that right? Even if I see an exact setting in a store that I like, they''re going to have to custom make it to fit those measurements (if I bring in my own stone)? [Just want to get my facts straight before I go "shopping" in the real world - this site has been so helpful so far in ALL the knowledge I''ve gained. SO valuable.

]

 

[Pandora II]

Date: 8/22/2008 9:15:11 AM
Author: luvthemstrawberries

arjunajane - Hehe no problem - you're asking exact questions I had as well! Sounds like we're on the same page.

Pandora - I love your stone and ring - how long did it take you to design it? And I read the threads on Harriet's ring and the 'Pokey Special' hehe - both amazing rings. I would LOVE to have the creativity and patience to design my own, but I'm such a perfectionist and would repeatedly question myself as to whether I want this little detail changed, or that little stone added in...

There are so many choices out there now already...

Thank you. It took about 2.5 months to design and find the stone. My degree is in textile design, and I worked as a professional designer in the textiles/fashion/jewellery sectors for over 10 years, so I am super picky. I'm also not an upgrader so it had to be something DH and I both loved. He's more blingy than I am, so there was a lot of discussion and compromising but we both love the result. I have a curved w-band with it that also has the graduated melee and is perfectly matched stone for stone between the two rings.

Initially I was looking for a square cushion, but there was nothing available in that shape in the colour I wanted at the time. Now I'm glad I went with the rectangular cushion. One of the frustrations with coloured stones is that you can't order them like diamonds. It all depends on supply. Harriet had quite a search for hers.

The whole process from start to finish was over 5 months.

Do remember the w-band when choosing the e-ring especially if you want a flush fit. If you are going custom it's an idea to do the two together if you want a curved band.


With the size of stones for stock settings, it very much depends on the settings. My sphene were not calibrated sizes and I had them set in stock settings with no problems - pendant and studs.

Best to speak to whoever will be setting the stone about possibilities in advance if you don't want to go the custom route.

Please also remember that if the setter is not the vendor you will need to insure the stone in case of damage during setting.

Also read the caveats on wearing e-rings 24/7. Not a good idea with any ring - but applies even more with coloured stones. Sorry to be repetitive, but having seen what a friend did to her tsav when her FI forgot to pass on my advice, I would hate to see someone else in that situation!

 

[luvthemstrawberries]

Thanks Pandora for all your help so far - you and so many other "Ideal Rocks" on PS are just banks of ring knowledge!! I will definitely do some talking with the 2 local jewelers I''m thinking of using, and with the online ones if I decide to use them. And I will definitely make sure, if we go either route, that I get the stone insured! I have the kind of luck that DEFINITELY has taught me to protect myself.

And I definitely appreciate the warnings about the 24/7 thing - no worries there... when I first started my search, I was intent on being "stuck" to my ring, and wearing it all the time, like most idealistic romantic people. But even with diamonds, as I became educated, I realized that would be silly for me. I am one of those "randomly clumsy" people that bumps into things when it''s nowhere even near me.

I prize my few valuable possessions, so I definitely intend to treat my e-ring with respect and love.

I''m also planning on a plain band (which I''ll have to decide about regarding the setting as well) for those reasons, and so I can wear it alone in times when I want something there but need to take off the e-ring, so I won''t worry about stones or anything. Guess my clumsiness is yet another reason for insurance!

Wow I can''t imagine 5 months of designing and changing and waiting! Kudos to you for being able to do that.

I would have pulled my hair out - haha I''m very organized and detailed, but when the search range becomes so big that it makes the offered choices infinite, I tend to get overwhelmed and just want the decisions done!

Like you, I don''t want to upgrade later either, so I need to find a happy medium in this setting deal.

 

[FrekeChild]

Date: 8/22/2008 5:39:44 AM
Author: arjunajane

Date: 8/22/2008 2:15:03 AM
Author: FrekeChild

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It''s basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...
Gemstones are complicated.

This much is certainly true!

Thanks for the answer Freke..so, I know it will depend on each piece of rough, but does that mean then when I ask someone to cut a 7.7mm cushion, it may not necessarily make the most of the rough? Or put another way, there''s a chance it may not be that pretty..?
Can a good cutter ''get around this'', or does it just depend on what the rough lends itself to ( so to speak)..?

Sorry strawberries about the small threadjack

Hey AJ, this is complicated...You can ask someone to cut a 7.7mm stone, but the thing is, a cutter can''t guarantee that it will come out perfectly. The cutters can give you an idea as to what a stone could come out looking like, but with things like inclusions or anything else that may interfere with the cutting, it''s all pretty unpredictable. Most cutters (I''ve discovered) will likely cut the stone that the rough be best suited for. Certain shapes of rough are just better suited to getting the most weight and the best shape for one particular shape of stone (oval, cushion, round, etc). I''ve seen rough that I thought would get at least a 2ct stone (4cts or so) that ended up being around 1ct. As I said, it gets complicated. I really think the cutters go for whatever the rough lends itself to the most, and what would make the most beautiful stone with the least flaws. I thought I was looking for something simple-7mm or so round, or a 6x8mm or so oval, and little did I know, that it''s a lot harder than you''d think. I''m sure you could get a cutter to cut around what you want, but they can''t really guarantee anything.

Yup...complicated....

 

[luvthemstrawberries]

Pandora - I wanted to ask you one quick question if you don''t mind - I have another thread going about this, but since you got your setting made through Wink Jones online, how do you go about getting maintenance done on it? Do you have to send it back to them every time for polishing, prong checks, etc or do you just take it to a local jeweler and pay them to do it? I''m just debating whether to use an online vendor for settings or have a local guy do it. Thanks

 

[FrekeChild]

Date: 8/22/2008 9:17:24 AM
Author: luvthemstrawberries

Date: 8/22/2008 2:15:03 AM
Author: FrekeChild

Date: 8/22/2008 2:09:05 AM
Author: arjunajane
Gorgeous pic Pandora!
Look, I know this probably a really silly question - but what exactly does a calibrated stone mean? I''ve been wondering the same thing, and am also facing the same questions as strawberries, so decided to bite the bullet and just ask!

It''s basically just a stone that is a standard size to fit in stock settings. Like, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, for rounds, princesses, etc. Or 5x7mm 6x8mm, 7x9mm, for ovals, so on and so forth. And it seems that very few gemstones out there are cut to these specs. They are either cut for weight or beauty but rarely their length/width measurements. Although lots of B&M stones seem to be calibrated...hmmm...

Gemstones are complicated.

So if I have a gem in mind that is 6.5mm square cushion, or 7.3mm round, then I''m going to have to have a custom setting made, is that right? Even if I see an exact setting in a store that I like, they''re going to have to custom make it to fit those measurements (if I bring in my own stone)? [Just want to get my facts straight before I go ''shopping'' in the real world - this site has been so helpful so far in ALL the knowledge I''ve gained. SO valuable.

]

Not necessarily. I have a topaz that''s 10.2 x 12.2-but it''s really deep (7.41cts) I showed it to a jeweler to get an estimate on what it would cost for a stock setting. He decided that it would be best to do a 11x13mm setting because it''s deep and he could modify it to fit the stone. With a 6.5 cushion I''m thinking a bigger setting (7mm) could probably be modified to work, and with a 7.3mm round, a 7mm setting could probably work. Of course, I''m not a jeweler, but this is just what I''ve picked up on. I hope that helps, and maybe someone who is in the know will respond as well.

 

[minebender]

I hope you don''t mind my answering...I''ve known many people who''ve used Wink for their custom work and they often would send it back to him for adjustments, plating/polishing, etc., but if you don''t want to ship it back to him for these services (sometimes you may not want to wait) you can take it to your local jeweler, too.

 

[Pandora II]

Date: 8/22/2008 11:59:33 AM
Author: luvthemstrawberries
Pandora - I wanted to ask you one quick question if you don''t mind - I have another thread going about this, but since you got your setting made through Wink Jones online, how do you go about getting maintenance done on it? Do you have to send it back to them every time for polishing, prong checks, etc or do you just take it to a local jeweler and pay them to do it? I''m just debating whether to use an online vendor for settings or have a local guy do it. Thanks

I do all the checks myself and if things need to be repaired I have an excellent jeweller here in London who will do it for me. It works out cheaper than shipping costs.

If I needed to have the tsavorite repolished in the future, I would send it back to the US as I haven''t found anyone I like over here yet. I haven''t needed to repolish the metal as yet, and doubt I will ever want to.

If I lived in the US, I would send it to the online vendor. I prefer to use online as I have a limitless choice of people to work with rather than being restricted to my local area.