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Can the setting of emerald cut affect brilliance?

Summergr1

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
4
Hello knowledgable ps's.

The jeweler tells me that it is the setting that is affecting the brilliance of the steps in this stone. Specifically, what I would describe as, the ring of gold that surrounds the base do the diamond in the setting. From my understanding the setting should not affect a stones brilliance because the brilliance comes from the light which is reflected from above the stone. That's why good stones set within a Bessel set can still shine?

From what I'm reading I think if the brilliance is being affected by the setting it is because the stone is leaking light. So that I can see the the setting through the stone and therefore isn't cut well enough to reflect light?

The jeweler says if I'm really interested they will remove the stone from the setting and re set it. ( I have a specific setting in mind). There may be a charge if I don't take the stone after dismounting or I really don't want to waste their time and effort if the stone itself is not worthwhile.

Lastly is the stones cirt is from 2004, should that be worrisome that no one else has bought it in that time?

We are looking into an emerald cut stone. Specs:
2.37ct
9.16-6.46x4.29mm
66.4 depth
69 table
10% crown
55% pav
Thin-polished
Polish vg
Sym vg
Cutlet none
Vvs2
G colour
Flour. None
EGL cirt

Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance.
 
Based on the cut specifications you provided, there is a strong likelihood that it isn't a good performer, hence it needs light coming in from the sides to help it sparkle better. A well cut stone can be bezeled with little impact on its light performance. The table is too large and the crown is on the low end. I would also opt for an EC with a GIA lab report.
 
Chrono|1389190395|3588797 said:
Based on the cut specifications you provided, there is a strong likelihood that it isn't a good performer, hence it needs light coming in from the sides to help it sparkle better. A well cut stone can be bezeled with little impact on its light performance. The table is too large and the crown is on the low end. I would also opt for an EC with a GIA lab report.

I agree with Chrono but just to expand on OP's comments. Most EC's arent particularly brilliant even well cut ones. Certainly not like Rounds. I am concerned that you can see the setting through the stone. That is odd to me. Any pics?
 
Many emeralds are leaky. Possibly #1 problem with emeralds.
 
Thank you everyone for your feedback.

Sorry I don't have any pics but it sounds like I should else where. From other posts it seems many have been lucky online. I would have never considered an online purchase had I not read so many success stories here.

By the way does anyone have an answer for. Should I be concerned if a stone has an old cirt? Is that an indication that it's not that we'll cut and therefore hasn't sold for a long time?

Or do most stones I see have new cirts because jewelers get them re cirtafied regularity ?

Thanks again.
 
It probably depends more on the turnover the jeweler has and how often they get in new stock. I don't think it is a good sign that the stone cert if from 2004 unless it was bought back then and recently traded in. But you can see with your eyes it is not a great stone, and resetting is not going to solve that. I'd return and start over. (And no, jewelers do not get stones recertified frequently.)

I will tell you that from my personal experience that Good Old Gold is great at selecting step cuts and will call in two or three for you to choose from. They did that for me when I needed an asscher to set in a right hand ring, and I absolutely got a better stone than I would have otherwise. Here's the video they made and you can see that while all the stones were good, a couple were more outstanding than the others.

You also will want GIA grading as it is more accurate than EGL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7SBfNGxTFE&list=UUEV7slr-i-VduBBnfv9MxhA&index=2
 
Thank you, I've been hesitant about looking online but perhaps I'll give it a try.

Thank you again everyone!
 
Settings can affect performance. I've had three different settings for my asscher (square emerald cut) and the performance is influenced by the setting.

But more than that the angles of the actual stone affect performance. So I would try to get the nicest brightest stone you can.

But fancies can't be bought from the numbers. But sometimes they can be rejected by them. The measurements and angles on the stone don't look promising.
 
Gypsy|1389335262|3590122 said:
Settings can affect performance. I've had three different settings for my asscher (square emerald cut) and the performance is influenced by the setting.

Interesting! What have you noticed with different styles?
 
HI Summergr1

There's a large concern about the lab report ( cert)- but not because it's old.
The issue is that with EGL reports, you really don;t know what the color and clarity of the stone are.
With a stone of this magnitude, a few color grades difference can make a significant difference in the value.

With regards to the setting itself- the same diamond set in prongs- versus being set in a bezel will indeed change the appearance- no matter how it's cut.
 
Gypsy|1389335262|3590122 said:
Settings can affect performance. I've had three different settings for my asscher (square emerald cut) and the performance is influenced by the setting.

But more than that the angles of the actual stone affect performance. So I would try to get the nicest brightest stone you can.

But fancies can't be bought from the numbers. But sometimes they can be rejected by them. The measurements and angles on the stone don't look promising.

This is something we are currently discussing on another thread about Asschers & settings. Could you please elaborate on which setting gave the best performance?
 
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