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Can I afford an asscher?

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j8a8n8e8t

Rough_Rock
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Hi everyone,

Been lurking for the past two weeks, digesting the advice of all the amazingly knowledgeable people on this board and finally got registered so I can join in and post.

Longtime BF and I are getting ready to take the next step and are currently shopping for an e-ring! Since we are both architects and he understands how picky I am when it comes aesthetics, he is giving me a wide berth in sourcing the "perfect" stone.

I consider myself an asscher girl, but until I started researching here, I didn''t realize that it is such a fussy shape in so many ways! The quality of the cut has to be impeccable since it has fewer of them than say a round brilliant. It faces up small for its carat size, and from the few that I have been able to see locally, really doesn''t start to have that particular presence until it is about 1.5ct in size. It generally needs to have a higher clarity, color and size to compensate for the minimalism of the cut--from what I have seen, maybe G or higher and VS1 or higher. Of course all of these factors make it all the more difficult to find a good stone at a good price, and I''m starting to wonder if I can even "afford" a good enough asscher on our roughly $6K budget (might be a small amount of room to wiggle for the right stone) without having to significantly lower any of the 4Cs.

I guess in terms of compromising, I would surely have to go smaller than 1.5ct, but to my admittedly picky eye, anything less than 1.25ct isn''t going to do the asscher proportions proper justice, so I guess that would be my limit. I would prefer to keep the color higher--G or above--since I am sensitive to any yellowish tint, but I might be ok going as low as an eyeclean SI1 in clarity with the reasoning that if I can''t see it, then it''s ok. Of course in all cases the quality of the cut has to be impeccable. I hate to say it, but it really all kind of boils down to my anal-retentive architect''s obsessiveness--if I can''t have it just right, I''d rather not have it at all, and would rather go for a more "perfect" stone w/ better stats in another shape. It would drive me nuts to have to look at a "bad" asscher every day for the rest of my life! (yes, I do think bad asschers exist! I will admit it, I am an asscher snob!)

So do the wise folks on this board think it is possible for me to find the right asscher in my budget or should I move on to obsessing about a cushion, which is my 2nd choice shape--that I also love, but not as much as the asscher?
 
Would you consider purchasing online or do you want to purchase from a store?

Also, how strict is your budget?
 
I am open to either, but I really think I would need to see the stone before buying--it''s hard to tell an asscher from a report sheet or pictures alone, isn''t it?
 
And budget might be able to go up a bit, but I think $7k would be a big stretch.
 
Yes that is true, but it is arguably true for all diamonds. The difference would be that you may be able to get more bang for your buck online. Particularly because some pricescope vendors offer a discount to pricescope members.

The only company I have worked with thus far is James Allen and they have been very helpful and very well priced compared to B&M stores.
 
Thanks! I do agree with you that going online will have the best deals and I definitely do not have a problem shopping online, as my credit card bill will attest! And I will certainly check out James Allen. But I guess I am concerned that a great deal online might still not be enough to get a stone that makes it worthwhile to get an asscher. Cut, size, color, clarity will all have to be lowered too much for my asscher-specific taste, in which case it would probably better for me to go with another cut with which I can "afford" to be a little less picky about, if that makes any sense at all.
 
Personally I am a bit surprised you wouldnt consider an emerald cut. I too started out wanting an asscher....found that a good one was hard to find and comparatively expensive due to the cut and the depth. I also liked the cushion -in theory-and discovered that most looked too lumpy for my taste and that I was really an Art Deco girl--step cuts all the way. I ended up with an emerald cut and have never regretted it. I had the good fortune to have a very generous budget and still found the hunt arduous but in the end it worked out. You may be 100% sure about the cushion as your next focus but your story sounded so familiar that I had to chime in.
 
How's your eyesight?

I'm in my low 50s and $7K would only buy me a well-cut asscher, of acceptable clarity and color that was too small for my old eyes to appreciate the hall of mirrors effect without some magnification.
 
well cut G/vs2 1.5ct is over $9k and more likely $10k+
 
Its so ironic that the very people who are most attracted to the Asscher cut *in theory* are, in fact, the same people who will be driven most crazy by them *in practice*.

I''d recommend spending a LOT of time with one in a store, on your hand before deciding if its the way to go. And if you consider proceeding -- really test out that 30 day return policy ... in all lights, all environments, dirty, filthy, study it inside and out.

So many people end up switching AWAY from an Asscher after selecting one originally. Personally, I''m happy as a clam with my 1.5 ct Square Emerald/Asscher on a size 10+ finger after four years. But I actually like that its not "showy" and that its understated and that its small for its weight. If my priorities were "big look" and "bang for buck" and "sparkle" -- I''d have been much better off with an antique OEC or chunky cushion of some sort. Even an Emerald cut. ANYTHING but those moody little mile deep maddeningly slippery little boogers that start with ***.
 
That is funny, because I when I was younger (not by much!) I started out liking emeralds and actually turned a number of other female friends who got engaged earlier than me on to them. I guess my taste evolved from emeralds to asschers and it''s sort of remained there ever since. Maybe I am slowly migrating to cushions in my old age, who knows? I saw a number of them that I liked and it''s nice to have the extra sparkle, although I think in general I tend to be drawn to the more subdued step cuts, partially because I don''t like overly bling-y stones but also because my inner architect just prefers straight lines and right angles.
 
My eyesight is pretty poor, unfortunately! I think in most states, I qualify as legally blind without my contacts/eyeglasses. But once I have them on, I really will obsess over every detail.

So I guess having a smaller stone is not the end of the world, but it sure would be nice to have something I could recognize as a diamond with my glasses off!
 
Well then you could also look on the bright side.

Even thought the hall-of-mirrors effect won't be as apparent as it would in a larger asscher, the flashes of light will be larger from an asscher than from many other cuts.
This is because the facets of an asscher are relatively large.

I enjoy the big bold rectangles of a million colors that blow my head off when I'm driving in the full sun.
 
decodelighted--that is good advice to use a 30day return policy to really test out the asscher, even if I am fairly sure I will love it in the long run. I have tried out a few of varying sizes in the stores and they just look "right" on my hand (even BF agrees, suprisingly, since he was all for a round brilliant in the beginning).
Also, there must be something about asschers that draw in the detail-obsessed folks. Fussy stone (but worth it) for fussy people, maybe?

But according to strmrdr''s price estimate, I guess I might be out of luck trying to get something acceptable in my budget, even if I go smaller.

I wonder if there is market for pre-owned diamonds somewhere out there that might offer a price break? I''ve seen that site idonowidont.com, but the selection there is pretty slim, especially for asschers.
 
I totally agree with bgray and decodedelighted about the Asscher/Emerald cut migration. You get those gorgeous long panels of light at the edges and a windmill (in some emeralds, though not as pronounced) in both cuts. I started out being Asscher-only, but the stone that has completely taken my breath away (so that I can''t think about anything else at all!) is an emerald cut, although it is a square-ish emerald. I''m calling it a Squemerald! I went through looking at a lot of cushion cuts as well because I like the shape, but of course you don''t get the long panels of light that I am after. I guess what I am saying is to be open to the possibility that a stone other than the one you first plan on may be the one that really gets your pulse racing. In my personal experience, I just couldn''t find asschers that ticked all my boxes... either the color was wrong, the size was wrong, the cut was really wrong, the price was astronomical, etc.

Good luck!!
 
Date: 10/31/2009 12:09:22 AM
Author: j8a8n8e8t
I think in general I tend to be drawn to the more subdued step cuts, partially because I don't like overly bling-y stones but also because my inner architect just prefers straight lines and right angles.
This sums up my position perfectly ... except I have no professional justification for my preferences.
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Maybe you are cut out (lol) for asschers. If you stick with a simple setting you could find a lovely asscher for your budget. Have you seen Laurenthepartier's bevel-in-the-bezel set asscher? I think its in the .7-.8 range but the clean edge bezel adds some visual oomph. Oh, and mine is an H -- that an appraiser mistook for a G -- so I don't think you HAVE to stop at G. Especially if there's some blue fluorescense. Then maybe "I" even. I saw a "K" asscher that faced up very white because of Fluor. (Though I did not choose it, so .... there's that!)

Keep looking. I'll see if I can find anything that jumps out at me.


Here's one just over 6K w/the bank wire price at $5800ish (1.04 G) ... I like this stone a lot. Could really be worth a look. Maybe a carat would do the trick!?
There's even a video of this one right here


Here's a carat for $4700 ... G color, VS2
 
Date: 10/31/2009 8:05:01 AM
Author: LisaLondon
I started out being Asscher-only, but the stone that has completely taken my breath away (so that I can't think about anything else at all!) is an emerald cut, although it is a square-ish emerald. I'm calling it a Squemerald!

I'd call it a squasscher.
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Date: 10/31/2009 8:05:01 AM
Author: LisaLondon
I totally agree with bgray and decodedelighted about the Asscher/Emerald cut migration. You get those gorgeous long panels of light at the edges and a windmill (in some emeralds, though not as pronounced) in both cuts. I started out being Asscher-only, but the stone that has completely taken my breath away (so that I can''t think about anything else at all!) is an emerald cut, although it is a square-ish emerald. I''m calling it a Squemerald! I went through looking at a lot of cushion cuts as well because I like the shape, but of course you don''t get the long panels of light that I am after. I guess what I am saying is to be open to the possibility that a stone other than the one you first plan on may be the one that really gets your pulse racing. In my personal experience, I just couldn''t find asschers that ticked all my boxes... either the color was wrong, the size was wrong, the cut was really wrong, the price was astronomical, etc.


Again so like my story! And Well said to boot. I ended up with a 5 carat Emerald cut of classic proportions and I believe it was meant to be that I started out wanting the others!!
 
Date: 10/31/2009 12:09:22 AM
Author: j8a8n8e8t
That is funny, because I when I was younger (not by much!) I started out liking emeralds and actually turned a number of other female friends who got engaged earlier than me on to them. I guess my taste evolved from emeralds to asschers and it's sort of remained there ever since. Maybe I am slowly migrating to cushions in my old age, who knows? I saw a number of them that I liked and it's nice to have the extra sparkle, although I think in general I tend to be drawn to the more subdued step cuts, partially because I don't like overly bling-y stones but also because my inner architect just prefers straight lines and right angles.
You completely hit the nail on the head for me when it comes to why I gravitate toward Asschers. Yes, a ~1 ct. square emerald is going to be somewhat less of an impact as compared to a 1.5 ct. square emerald, so you have to REALLY love the concept, the broad flashes of light return, and the architecture of the cut to still love it despite the face up size and the difficulty in finding the right one. If you're a number person, and I suspect you are, you'll likely go through a few Asschers before you find the right one.
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I like the 1.04 that Deco posted. I think I'd call Jon at Good Old Gold and perhaps you could find both an Asscher and an old mine cushion in your price range and take them out on memo to see which one you gravitate toward when you see them in person. I'd also investigate lower colours than a G, and possibly an eye-cleamn SI1. It's a rare beast, but there have been one or two asschers around here that were SI1s and VERY surprisingly clean.

Also, a 1 ct. with a thought out architectural setting (like the bevel in the bezel that mine and Blueroses' rings posess) can help boost the size tremendously. Mine's only a .71 ct. Asscher, and many people mistake it for a full ct.
 
Also, a pic of the settings Deco mentioned. Mine's a .71 ct. Square emerald at exactly 5mm, and Blueroses' is an antique emerald cut at .62 ct. and it looks HUGE on her hand, partly due to the shallower cut of the stone, but also due in part to that setting. Excuse the oils on mine, I had been traveling and hadn't had time or my US with me.

hm80.jpg


With Kenny's GORGEOUS Asscher. . . omg, this thing makes me salivate just to think of it! I had it on my hand for a minute and I had to be talked into giving it back. Wowzers, just goes to show what you can find with the help of PS.

1mm2.jpg
 
LaurenThePartier--Those are all such amazingly beautiful & fabulous stones and the settings are so unique and elegant!! All of you are lucky to have found them!! It gives me some hope that I''ll find what I''m looking for somehow, even if I have to make some small compromises.

And lisa/kenny--LOL, I think it''s a great idea to take a look at some squemerald/squasschers--they are an interesting compromise I could make to get that asscher "look" without as much fussiness, maybe.

decodelighted--Those stones you posted from GOG are great, esp the 1.04ct one. For some reason the cut and proportions on that one appeal to my eye a lot (not that the 1.01 isn''t also nice!). I will almost certainly give GOG a ring to see what they can find for me if my first plan of attack fails. A good friend''s mother is a gemologist and is happy to help but seemed a bit baffled that I wanted an asscher for all of the drawbacks above--I''m afraid she might start steering me towards less difficult stones, which would end that one pretty quickly. We''ll see. I have checked out Jon''s site and his videos and am impressed by many of the asschers and cushions he sells, so who knows, maybe I will be a potential customer soon!

Thanks so much for all of the help and advice guys! This board is so great!
 
Date: 10/31/2009 6:33:15 PM
Author: j8a8n8e8t
decodelighted--Those stones you posted from GOG are great, esp the 1.04ct one. For some reason the cut and proportions on that one appeal to my eye a lot (not that the 1.01 isn't also nice!). I will almost certainly give GOG a ring to see what they can find for me if my first plan of attack fails. A good friend's mother is a gemologist and is happy to help but seemed a bit baffled that I wanted an asscher for all of the drawbacks above--I'm afraid she might start steering me towards less difficult stones, which would end that one pretty quickly. We'll see. I have checked out Jon's site and his videos and am impressed by many of the asschers and cushions he sells, so who knows, maybe I will be a potential customer soon!
If you're interested in that 1.04 *at all* I urge you to call on it asap. Once stones are "singled out" in some way on Pricescope as "nice ones" -- they almost always sell quickly ... to other posters or to one of the thousands of lurkers who also look for advice w/o asking questions themselves. Just fair warning because I've seen it happen so many times over the years. If you want to pursue things through a private party first it'd probably be best for folks NOT to post internet stones for you to check out -- so they'll be left when/if you DO wanna check out internet vendors.
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ETA: If you really want an Asscher, don't be discouraged by a single stumped gemologist ... just because its easier for HER to get you something else. Sounds like a decision you'd always regret. Folks fall into "good girl" syndrome trying to please others & deferring to their suggestions. Not saying you'd be doing that but please think about it if you find yourself feeling like you might be compromising your real desires. I almost went with a cushion at the last minute because there were so many more available and I just wanted to be "done" -- but I'm so glad I kept going & stuck to my initial instinct. I'm happy with my stone four years later when many folks *aren't*. Also very lucky that my now husband gave me such free reign w/the decision since I had a track record of being very particular about jewelry. Gotta love a good match, right?
 
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