Bezel vs Martini Stud Sizing

[ExplorePS]

Hello PSers! The photo depicts my mom's bezel set earrings and believe each stone is 1 carat (tcw 2). I would appreciate some honest opinions about my earlobes please... never thought I would type out those words in my lifetime but here goes...

Does this look larger than 1 carat on each ear given my lobes because of the type of setting that creates an illusion? If I'm used to this size now (thanks mom!) but prefer the martini setting. How much larger would I go to get the same earlobe/diamond look? I'm toying the idea of bumping up to 1.5 carat (tcw 3) but wasn't sure if that is too much for my earlobe and my appearance (I have long hair though it's tied up in the photo). I don't want to give off the costume vibe. Appreciate the help and thanks in advance!

 

[0-0-0]

What’s the diameter of your bezel stud? As a rough guide, a well cut 1 ct round is around 6.5 mm, 1.3 ct is around 7 mm, 1.6 ct is around 7.5 mm, and 2 ct is over 8 mm.

 

[tyty333]

Ditto @0-0-0

They do look bigger than 1 carat (6.5mm).

 

[ExplorePS]

I believe one of them is 6.37 mm and the other one is 6.38 mm (if you are supposed to use the first number listed on the GIA cert as it gives a range such as 6.37 - 6.47 for the first stone).

@tyty333 - if it looks larger than 1 carat, is the commentary that either the bezel is making it look larger or is it my ear lobe? Appreciate the help and thanks!

 

[0-0-0]

Can you measure the diameter of your bezel stud? The bezel can add 1 mm or more to the diameter of a round depending on how thick it is. If you want a similarly sized look in a martini setting, 1.5 ct is probably the smallest to go for.

 

[Austina]

I think they look the perfect size on you!

 

[tyty333]

I also meant to measure the whole earring (including the bezel). I think that's approximately the size of stone you need in order
to keep that "look" but with prongs.

 

[ExplorePS]

Can you measure the diameter of your bezel stud? The bezel can add 1 mm or more to the diameter of a round depending on how thick it is. If you want a similarly sized look in a martini setting, 1.5 ct is probably the smallest to go for.

Hello again and thank you for your continued assistance! I don't own calipers unfortunately but I think 1 mm is a good guess as the bezel has the tiniest micro migraine and you can't actually see it until you are really up close. I was thinking that 1.5 ct would be the smallest but I was able to try some on and it seemed rather different but I'm not sure if it's because of the white gold vs yellow gold difference. I'll share photos below in another post.

 

[ExplorePS]

I think they look the perfect size on you!

Thank you Austina! Appreciate the affirmation. I agree that it is a little bit of luxury but not overdoing it, which seems to fit my comfort zone. I'm just hoping I can achieve that same type of ear/diamond ratio with white gold in a martini or maybe 6 prong crown setting.

 

[ExplorePS]

I also meant to measure the whole earring (including the bezel). I think that's approximately the size of stone you need in order
to keep that "look" but with prongs.

Ahhh... you are so smart... I see how you and @0-0-0 are going to use math to solve this problem. They should have told me to pay more attention in school if this would help me solve my jewelry problems. haha...

I don't own any calipers so I don't think I can get a good measurement on the earring plus the bezel and then subtracting out the bezel. I resorted to going into a brick and mortar store to try it on and the additional data is adding a bit more confusion possibly because of the different variables.

 

[ExplorePS]

Thanks again for all the help so far! Since I'm not a pro PSer who doesn't own any tools, I don't think I can calculate into this ratio. I decided to go into a brick and mortar store to try things on... but I always feel guilty doing that because I rather purchase online from the other well-known vendors here.

Anyhow, I tried out on a 3 tcw (1.5 for each stone) and a 2 tcw (1 for each stone). The 3 tcw though was in a 4 prong basket setting. The 2 tcw was in a martini setting. Both were in white gold. Here are my feelings with a few questions please:

3 TCW Try On
The 3 tcw seemed dare I say.... too big compared to my mom's gold set as I wore my mom's in one ear and the 1.5 ct in the other. The 1.5 ct seemed to exude much more light and brightness that it felt too much for my earlobe's presence. However, when looking back at the terrible picture I took in the store, it looks fine and I could def handle this size. I wonder if it has more to do with the white gold that allows the diamond to blend in more and reflect a brighter color as opposed to my mom's gold set that is reflecting the yellow setting that is subdued.

Also, I'm learning that I'm not a fan of the basket setting. I can see it from the sides and it bothers me. If that is the case, is it best to avoid the "6 prong crown setting?"



2 TCW Try On
After trying on the 1.5 stone, the 1 (or maybe it's slightly above...) carat actually seems more comfortable of a presence to me. I am a bit confused though that when I wore the white gold martini in one ear and gold bezel in the other, I feel like the bezel looked bigger visually still but the white gold was brighter/more radiant that it drew just as enough attention even though it was smaller. Is that possible or my eyes are just playing tricks.



Almost a Conclusion!
I think I'm settled on sizing that the carat weight needs to be around the 1 carat mark or as @0-0-0 taught me, less than 7 mm. Any suggestions though on narrowing it down further given the white gold setting that seems to wear differently than the gold migraine bezel? Thanks in advance!

 

[tyty333]

So maybe 6.75mm...that would be about 1.15ish carat.

 

[ExplorePS]

So maybe 6.75mm...that would be about 1.15ish carat.

Appreciate your input! I'll check into it.

 

[Pomelo]

Hello PSers! The photo depicts my mom's bezel set earrings and believe each stone is 1 carat (tcw 2). I would appreciate some honest opinions about my earlobes please... never thought I would type out those words in my lifetime but here goes...

Does this look larger than 1 carat on each ear given my lobes because of the type of setting that creates an illusion? If I'm used to this size now (thanks mom!) but prefer the martini setting. How much larger would I go to get the same earlobe/diamond look? I'm toying the idea of bumping up to 1.5 carat (tcw 3) but wasn't sure if that is too much for my earlobe and my appearance (I have long hair though it's tied up in the photo). I don't want to give off the costume vibe. Appreciate the help and thanks in advance!

@ExplorePS would you mind posting a pic of the bezel setting please?

I love how you(r mom’s) bezel earring looks like it sits so low and flush against the ear. I recently had a pair of small 0.3ct each bezel earrings made and somehow they seem to sit more upright in my ear than I would like. Yours looks amazing for 1ct each!

Also, just to be cautious - it might be worth doing a search on PS for 3-prong martini settings. If a prong is loose then it’s easy for a stone to fall out.

 

[ExplorePS]

@ExplorePS would you mind posting a pic of the bezel setting please?

I love how you(r mom’s) bezel earring looks like it sits so low and flush against the ear. I recently had a pair of small 0.3ct each bezel earrings made and somehow they seem to sit more upright in my ear than I would like. Yours looks amazing for 1ct each!

Also, just to be cautious - it might be worth doing a search on PS for 3-prong martini settings. If a prong is loose then it’s easy for a stone to fall out.

I'll do my best to describe as I gave back the earrings but tried finding something online that is similar. From the side, you don't see any gaps, so I believe it is just set as low as possible. Perhaps that is the difference from yours? Or perhaps it's the backing that is causing the difference? She has the big jumbo backings, which is great as she can't lose them... but that would seem overkill for smaller studs as it already looks ridiculous on the 1 ct (sometimes it looks more like cuff links than earrings to me).

Appreciate the heads up on the martini setting risk and never thought about that before! Thank you!

 

[ExplorePS]

@Pomelo may I be bold and ask for your design thoughts as you clearly are creative given your amazing e-ring if convenient and you don't mind sharing. Plus I think we have similar skin/hair tone combos). : )

The more I think about the experience of trying on the white gold martini studs, the more I realize it wasn't as exciting. I preferred my mom's version and not sure why. Maybe gold just looks better (warm, toned down) against the darker hair? Or maybe it's because I already own a very tiny pair (0.4 tcw I think) so going bigger just doesn't cut it either.

I think what has been catching my eye is this type of look but can't seem to see if any PSers have created the custom look. Any thoughts on whether this look would be better as a stud or dangles (I prefer french/fish hook over the look of the lever backs)? If I went with the dangles just to have something completely different, any thoughts on whether it would be strange to go with a mixed metal vibe... gold french hooks but white gold around the stones?

Also, I don't want to sink too much $ into earrings that I can't see frequently so I'm just thinking outloud on how to achieve a good visual but avoid those big carat jumps... maybe 0.4 ct stone on the top followed by a 0.9 ct stone on the bottom. Thoughts? I wish PS had an AI tool that could make a visual for me!

 

[0515vision]

Just remember that lever backs for diamonds are for security. I’ve always felt anxious seeing women with open hook earrings and diamonds. :/

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Why not keep the bezels and buy Mom some prong-set earrings? The first photo with the bezels is perfection.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I am a bit confused though that when I wore the white gold martini in one ear and gold bezel in the other, I feel like the bezel looked bigger visually still but the white gold was brighter/more radiant that it drew just as enough attention even though it was smaller. Is that possible or my eyes are just playing tricks.

The difference in appearance you noticed between your moms bezels and the 1ct stones you tried could hav even due to difference in cut quality or cleanliness. If the store diamonds are better cut and/or cleaner it could explain why they seemed more eye catching than your moms bezels even though they were smaller.

 

[Pomelo]

@Pomelo may I be bold and ask for your design thoughts as you clearly are creative given your amazing e-ring if convenient and you don't mind sharing. Plus I think we have similar skin/hair tone combos). : )

The more I think about the experience of trying on the white gold martini studs, the more I realize it wasn't as exciting. I preferred my mom's version and not sure why. Maybe gold just looks better (warm, toned down) against the darker hair? Or maybe it's because I already own a very tiny pair (0.4 tcw I think) so going bigger just doesn't cut it either.

I think what has been catching my eye is this type of look but can't seem to see if any PSers have created the custom look. Any thoughts on whether this look would be better as a stud or dangles (I prefer french/fish hook over the look of the lever backs)? If I went with the dangles just to have something completely different, any thoughts on whether it would be strange to go with a mixed metal vibe... gold french hooks but white gold around the stones?

Also, I don't want to sink too much $ into earrings that I can't see frequently so I'm just thinking outloud on how to achieve a good visual but avoid those big carat jumps... maybe 0.4 ct stone on the top followed by a 0.9 ct stone on the bottom. Thoughts? I wish PS had an AI tool that could make a visual for me!

Ditto what @0515vision said about lever backs and security for diamonds. Earrings are pretty easy to lose, esp with long hair!

I’d recommend trying on this dormeuse style to see if you like it on you.

I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with dormeuse earrings to help out on specifics, but in general, perhaps it’s worth figuring out what you want from this pair of earrings first? Eg
1. Is it something you want to wear daily? Will it stay on your ears for long periods of time (incl sleep, shower, exercise)? I can imagine hair catching on the dormeuse but don’t know if it’s enough of a pain point to be an issue
2. Would you like something more classic (studs) or a little bit different? What impact do you want it to have?
3. What personal style do you have? To my eye, the dormeuse style is more vintage/antique vibes so although they’re beautiful on other people, I know it won’t work with my taste/style/wardrobe

Plus - try on as many pairs as you can! Nothing is better than trying pieces of jewellery on yourself and seeing how you like it

 

[ExplorePS]

@0515vision - Thanks for the reminder! I thought if you wear the rubber backing along with the open hooks that covers it? However, with all this talk about security, I wonder if it's just easier to go with studs look.

@Ibrakeforpossums - Awww aren't you sweet and smart idea. However, I think getting more parties involved might be more headache than it is worth at least in the long run. haha...

@Pomelo - ahhh thanks for educating me on the style name. I do have an e-ring with an old stone so I do have a set that has a vintage vibe. I wish there were some in the stores to try on but I've never seen them! Only online with much larger diamonds than I would consider purchasing.
Thanks for your rhetorical questions but I'm going to work them out-loud to process:
1. I won't wear these daily but that doesn't have anything to do with the look. However, I don't wear any piece of jewelry daily as it depends on what I'm doing and what I'm wearing (work or casual).
2. I think given my mom's gold studs that I'll eventually inherit and my tiny baby martini's, I would be more excited for something different.
3. I can't figure out whether eventually to go 18K gold or white gold or mixed metals yet. I'm leaning towards white gold as my mom's studs has the gold set covered. However, 18K gold seems to work better on my skin tone and I like the warmth of it. Or perhaps I should consider that with OECs and going lower in color for cost savings, 18K gold in general would be a better match with the metal. Ah I'm all over the place...

Overall with all this processing, perhaps I figured out that it is a better bet to go with studs unless someone can tell me it will just not look right.. I can't tell if this is a casual or formal look either??? I'll probably get more use out of them and worry less about them falling out given the concerns stated above about the open hook. I don't think the studs detract too much from the uniqueness of the shape, which is what I think I'm drawn to. Just something different from the martini style.

Sorry in advance for my "dear diary" type style of posting... I'm not great at sorting out decision points...

 

[TXwidow]

I cannot wear French hook earrings, they just 'work their way' out of my ear; my solution is those (silicone?) backs that slide up the wire to the back of my ear BUT not certain that is secure enough for diamonds (my only diamond earrings are studs).

Second, the lever back earrings I have are the absolutely most secure earrings I have; have never lost one.

Even any of my stud earrings I use those silicone (or whatever they are) backs; the gold ones simply end up sliding off. Keep in mind I wear the same earrings for days/weeks at a time! I have always wondered about getting a bezel set stone with a tiny loop on top that the post of a stud would slip over (and give one the dangle option). And the stud stone would cover up that loop.