Assessing ring setting quality? Going to pick up this week!

[Jumpman22]

just wondering what people''s experiences here are in assessing the quality of the work done for a setting?

FYI... It is a platinum solitaire setting with micropave and mil grain edging. Setting height is ''normal'' (not too high, not too low). Slightly pointed-tip prongs.

 

[JulieN]

An appraiser sees these things every day. I'd hire one.

 

[Jumpman22]

I''m mainly concerned with the pave side diamonds and how they are set...

and... the mill grain edge...

i''d rather try and see what work needs to be done (if any) right away before going to my same appraiser that i used to eval my loose diamond.

 

[swingirl]

Bring along a high-powered loupe so you can see details. Of course you need to know what to look for. Some things are obvious like crooked prongs, uneven or choppy milgrain, scratches on the polish, pave with uneven beads. Your best bet is to look at many of the settings posted here where the photos are close ups. Better yet look for a setting offered by someplace with an excellent reputation for beautiful benchwork.

 

[denverappraiser]

It really is harder than you might think but I’ll try to give you some pointers about the common problem areas.

Design.
The ring should look like what you asked for. It should have the correct number of stones, be made of the correct materials, use the correct stones, be the correct size, etc. This may seem obvious but it really is the first step.

Damage.
Check for broken, scratched or missing stones and look for cracks in the metal.

Overall symmetry.
Is it round? Are the prongs evenly spaced? Do the sides of the ring match one another (assuming the design calls for this of course)? Are the stones evenly spaced and at the same height? Is the shank an even thickness or evenly tapered? Most designs should have a look of precision workmanship about them rather than a feel of 'craftwork'.

Metalwork.
Check under magnification and look for pits in the casting, look for uncalled for seams at the bottom center where it’s been sized and incomplete welds where parts have been assembled. Look for places where the parts don't seem to fit together quite right.

Setting Work.
Check each stone to see if it’s tight and secure. Look at the prongs/channels/beads for things that will snag clothing. Stones should be set evenly, tightly, and level. They should be spaced evenly from one to the next and the prongs should be evenly spaced around the stones. Stones in channels should be evenly spaced and set at the same depth. Stones in pave and channels should match one another, be level, and be set at the same depth. Millgrain and engraving type work should be even and well polished.

Polish
A new item should have a bright, scratch-free polish on all surfaces save for the obvious disclaimer about the design requirements. There should no sharp or unfinished portions on either the outside or inside or between the prongs that are either unsightly or that can cause snagging or scratching. Rhodium plated pieces should have an even white finish without splotches.

Cleaning.
It should be immaculately clean with no residue from the polishing steps and no fingerprints other than your own.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Jewelry Appraisals in Denver

 

[Jumpman22]

Date: 8/29/2008 2:27:41 PM
Author: denverappraiser
It really is harder than you might think but I’ll try to give you some pointers about the common problem areas.


Design.

The ring should look like what you asked for. It should have the correct number of stones, be made of the correct materials, use the correct stones, be the correct size, etc. This may seem obvious but it really is the first step.


Damage.

thank you so much for the advice Neil, i will report back when i look at it today!



Check for broken, scratched or missing stones and look for cracks in the metal.


Overall symmetry.

Is it round? Are the prongs evenly spaced? Do the sides of the ring match one another (assuming the design calls for this of course)? Are the stones evenly spaced and at the same height? Is the shank an even thickness or evenly tapered? Most designs should have a look of precision workmanship about them rather than a feel of ''craftwork''.


Metalwork.

Check under magnification and look for pits in the casting, look for uncalled for seams at the bottom center where it’s been sized and incomplete welds where parts have been assembled. Look for places where the parts don''t seem to fit together quite right.


Setting Work.

Check each stone to see if it’s tight and secure. Look at the prongs/channels/beads for things that will snag clothing. Stones should be set evenly, tightly, and level. They should be spaced evenly from one to the next and the prongs should be evenly spaced around the stones. Stones in channels should be evenly spaced and set at the same depth. Stones in pave and channels should match one another, be level, and be set at the same depth. Millgrain and engraving type work should be even and well polished.


Polish

A new item should have a bright, scratch-free polish on all surfaces save for the obvious disclaimer about the design requirements. There should no sharp or unfinished portions on either the outside or inside or between the prongs that are either unsightly or that can cause snagging or scratching. Rhodium plated pieces should have an even white finish without splotches.


Cleaning.

It should be immaculately clean with no residue from the polishing steps and no fingerprints other than your own.


Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA

Professional Jewelry Appraisals in Denver