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Asscher Experts - Help

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Lnghrn11

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
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Hi Asscher Lovers & Experts (calling Karl / Strmrdr),

I''m currently in the market for a good size (~5 ct) Asscher engagement ring for my girlfriend. I''ve been reading the PS forums for awhile now and have found them very educational (you guys are awesome). I''ve also read a number of other dedicated diamond sites and completed a good deal of research on Asschers. All told, I have viewed hundreds of online photos and videos and seen well over a dozen Asscher candidates in person.

It''s getting down to crunchtime now (will be proposing in a couple of weeks), and I need to make a decision. I strongly prefer the "classic" Asscher look: near 1.0 square, small table, high crown, wide corners, good depth, and strong patterns. Specifically, these have been my parameters to date: L/W = 1.0-1.03, Table = 54-62, Crown Height = 12-16, Depth = 67-69, Polish & Symmetry = VG-EX, well-defined windmillls, wide step, even concentric squares, 10-mile deep appearance. In terms of GIA grading (don''t feel comfortable going with another certificate at this price point), I was targeting the G VS1-VS2 range and ~5 carats.

My dilemma is that there are very few (almost none) stones that fit these parameters. I have checked GOG, James Allen, Blue Nile and two local (Houston) wholesalers...and there is not a perfect candidate. Earlier this week, I sat down with another local wholesaler (ended up that a new friend''s parent is in the trade). He had four Asschers in the relevant size range. He put all four on the table next to each other before showing me the GIA certificates and asked me to pick my favorite. I quickly told him that option #3 was my favorite. #1 and #4 did not have the "classic" Asscher look that I''m going for, and I prefered the patterns in #3 to those in #2. He then told me that two of the stones were F color, one was H color and one was an I color. He asked me to assign the colors to each diamond. After holding them under the desk and then in the direct light for a few minutes, I honestly could not tell him with any confidence which color matched each stone. I was somewhat embarassed given how many other stones I have seen.

It ended up that option #3 (the one I liked initially) was the I-color stone. Here are the other stats:
Size = 5.44 cts
L/W = 1.03
Table = 56.0
Crown Height = 14.2
Depth = 68.1
Polish = Very good
Symmetry = Good
The patterns were very pleasing to my eye: well-defined & even windmills, nice concentric squares, good alternating light / dark patterns, good "rainbows", no dark spots, good center light (have read Karl''s article on P3 cuts).

My concerns are obviously the I color rating and the symmetry rating of "Good." Taking them in turn...I never wanted to go below the G or H color rating, because I know it''s easier to see color in the Asscher cuts (particularly in this size). However, I really could not tell the difference before being told the color ratings. Perhaps this is because #3 had a small table / higher crown and thus more "sparkle" or perhaps it''s just because I''m not very good at detecting color (entirely possible as I am just an amateur). I was shocked about the "good" symmetry rating. I stared at the stone (direct eye and with a loupe) for 20 minutes and thought that the concentric square patterns were good. And, again, I''ve looked at hundreds of these things by now and thought I had gotten relatively good at picking out flaws. I asked the jeweller to examine the stone, because I didn''t think it was possible to have great square patterns with a symmetry rating of only good. He took some time looking at the stone and concluded that the concentric squares were in fact good. Normally I would be very wary about this opinion, but: (i) it is the parent of a friend, and (ii) option #3 was the least expensive of the stones. I had not discussed a budget range with the jeweller and was giving equal time and attention to stones #2 and #3. For reference, stone #2 was much more expensive than #3, so you would think the jeweller would be doing everything possible to steer me towards #2.

I apologize for the very LONG post, but I just want to know if I would be *crazy* to buy an I-color Asscher with only a "good" symmetry rating, despite the fact that (to my naked and untrained eye) it''s the best Asscher I have found in this size range.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, advice, warnings, other stone suggestions, etc.
 
good symmetry rating is not a problem unless there is eye visible problem so no worries.

I color is personal preference in a 5ct stone there is going to be a tint.
Your the only one that can say if that is ok with you.
 
Hi Karl - Thank you very much for the prompt reply. That makes me feel more comfortable about the symmetry rating. I just want to get the right stone for my girlfriend, who is a huge Asscher fan. If this stone was a G color, it would be a no-brainer / home run. The I color just makes me a little nervous when investing this kind of money. Please let me know if you come across any attractive Asschers in the 5 ct range.

Thanks again for the reply. Much appreciated.
 
I''m not seeing anything interesting in the PS listings.
Have you contacted one of the better known PS asscher dealers and had them check with the cutters?

Have you considered showing it to her to make sure the color is ok?
 
I contacted James Allen and GOG. JA only had one in the size range, and the measurements didn''t meet my tastes (66 table, 65 depth). GOG doesn''t have anything currently in their inventory, but they said they would contact a variety of suppliers to see if anyone has stones that meet my preferred specs. The contact there was very helpful in the reply email and said that Jonathan / Rhino would help with the search (which was nice to hear).

Do you know if there is a particular shortage of sizeable Asschers right now? Or is this normal?

On your question about showing her the diamond, the jeweller has a very good return policy. He will buy it back at my purchase price if she doesn''t like it. I would like to keep the timing and details a surprise, if possible.

Thanks again for your reply. I really appreciate you looking at the PS investory for me.
 
Went to tiff''s on 5th ave Manhattan this weekend for grins and they had some enormous asschers... most likely overpriced though of course. They looked lovely.
 
there is a always a shortage of well cut stones that are in this carat size and anything but round...honestly.... i have a 5 carat EC and it took quite some time to find it. it has good polish and good symmetry which i was completely opposed to at the outset. however, i bought this stone over several others withe vg and excellent grades in symm and polish because they just werent cut well enough to suit my requirements.it sounds like a great stone. also--many older asscher and ecs were H''s and I''s--I have seen old Harry Winstons and Cartiers with these color grades and they are stunning stones.
 
Date: 1/21/2010 11:03:53 PM
Author: Lnghrn11
I contacted James Allen and GOG. JA only had one in the size range, and the measurements didn''t meet my tastes (66 table, 65 depth). GOG doesn''t have anything currently in their inventory, but they said they would contact a variety of suppliers to see if anyone has stones that meet my preferred specs. The contact there was very helpful in the reply email and said that Jonathan / Rhino would help with the search (which was nice to hear).

Do you know if there is a particular shortage of sizeable Asschers right now? Or is this normal?

On your question about showing her the diamond, the jeweller has a very good return policy. He will buy it back at my purchase price if she doesn''t like it. I would like to keep the timing and details a surprise, if possible.

Thanks again for your reply. I really appreciate you looking at the PS investory for me.
See what Jon can come up with. Large diamonds are scarce and well cut asschers in this size can be challenging to find, not impossible but it might take some time to find the right one. Keep working at it and the right stone will appear!
 
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